Ok thank you, I will try. Some cells it says will not sell single, but not the Sony i don't believe. My biggest concern would be if there is a trickle charge from the OEM charger. If so, a LiMn2O4 cell would be preferable. But I do agree with you about max current draw.
Thank you. Which are you suggesting, the Sony cells? They seem best on the page, but these aren't the Konion battery correct? And they aren't a manganese cathode, just a traditional LiCo, correct?
Need to replace the cell in my single cell Ryobi screwdriver, this one or very similar.
https://www.ryobitools.com/power-tools/products/details/375
The current battery is Moli FSPE IMR-18650E
http://www.molicel.com/ca/pdf/IMR18650E.pdf
I will have to double check the factory charger, but I...
These are deeply discounted right now, at least in my local stores for $3.97 each.
I am tempted to pick up at least half a dozen as I just moved to a new home and need quite a few. But, at the same time I can get the Cree 60W for $5.97 and I am already using them in several areas and are satisfied.
Perhaps. You are making a lot of assumptions, but you could certainly be correct.
I would consider sure electronics the better of a bad bunch. People here have tested there high power leds even quite some time ago, and while they don't hold up like quality products from well known manufacturers...
By by "power" that means "watts."
But maximum power for an LED isn't the best indicator for brightness, which I assume is your main concern? So don't get too hung up on wattage.
Lumens is a measure of brightness, if they supply it. Then you just have to be suspect for whatever ratings they...
How strange, you may have a problem with your charging system.
Anyhow, A quickie fix is you can add a high current rated diode inline with each headlamp. Something like GI2401 to GI2404 for instance should give you about .8 to .9V drop.
Here are some for less than a buck...
Yes when he refers to the loop back resistor it's the sense resistor. R22 in that case. Your driver may differ from the photos. I have had them come set anywhere from 800 to 1200ma. Also with 1 and with 2 parallel resistors. If you continuing reading the reviews you should find mine that...
Sounds like you will want a switcher as you say. Probably ~400ma drive current. And as effacious an led as possible, your xpg2 is a good choice as low forward voltage too especially at those currents. You could look at the "kenan" driver also sold as "highly efficient flashlight driver 3-18v"...
FYI it only affects the charge rate during the CC phase. While in the cv phase the effects will be less obvious. Just wanted to point out that it won't actually be as much faster as one might think.
Yah, the 1200mAH is just a blatant exaggeration
The AW IMR battery will work for you situation, but it's primary use is for high current draw applications. It's a different chemistry then your standard li-co battery (AW black battery). While it handles high current draw very well, the trade...
That is the easiest answer is yes, the battery is crap. And the charger more than likely as well. When trying to revive a lithium ion cell you shouldn't just pour full power into it, instead a pre-charge cycle should be used, charging at 20% or less of the normal charge voltage until reaching...
Are they a CR123A battery? I am not familiar with them but my guess would be that they are (a CR123A) not designed for high current usage. Probably primarily for cameras, or some other low current draw application.