4Sevens Lights...

[AnAppleSnail]

Thin is nice, but no thanks if it can be crushed between your FINGERS. Assuming that wasn't an exaggeration.

Of course it was exaggeration. Cut up a soda can and try to crush the bottom dome part "between your fingers." You probably can't without bearing down with all your weight, bracing your palm against it so that your fingers take no part. And flashlights are thicker than that, and made of nicer material. Especially if they are titanium.

 

[Got Lumens?]

the head consists of 2 extended parts and its possible to take out the reflector, lens, etc. but you dont mean THAT with "gets disassembled" do you?

can you explain the nano-oil procedure in detail (and why not down force) please? and when you "clean" afterwards, then you remove the nano-oil lube, dont you?

which lube do you finally use on the Ti threads? (why cant use just use Nano-oil on the Ti threads, and why do you have to clean it? i dont understand.)

Shelm,
I don't take the heads apart or remove drivers. Just the head, body, oring(s), and tailcap if it has one.

I clean before using them and breakin. I take head off body, and remove o-ring(s/tail). This assures the smoothess uncontaminated surfaces to mate the threads.

I use a techtip wipe and a little alcohol. Clean the threads on the head and body(Tail if so). Then apply some nano-oil to the threads screw it back on all the way. There is the battery spring which applies outward force on the threads. Using the same pulling outward with a screw and unscrew motion work the threads 5-6 times, loosen head about 1/2 turn and repeat. Clean. More oil, check feel. Usually 2-3 times works. No downward force to minimize head loosening(will wear overtime) unless I feel trouble with it. The tailcaps screw tight to the end of the battery tube, so you can do in either outward, inward, or combo of both. Clean it again until techtip wipes are coming clean. Air dry for 5 minutes. Clean electric contact points with Deoxit gold, Re-oil head, reassembly and grease o-ring(s), (screw tailcap on), load battery(s), and screw head on. Test.
GL

 

[craigshipp]

they are 3.6 volt 16340 Ultrafire batteries and they are longer I guess because they are protected. They fit ok in my Olight and my Sunwayman but not my 4sevens or Eagletec lights. They do fit my Novatac storm but not my Novatac Special Ops which takes two batteries. When I say fit I'm talking length. They go in the tubes but they are too long for me to screw the lights closed.

 

[shelm]

Shelm,
I don't take the heads apart or remove drivers. Just the head, body, oring(s), and tailcap if it has one.

I clean before using them and breakin. I take head off body, and remove o-ring(s/tail). This assures the smoothess uncontaminated surfaces to mate the threads.

I use a techtip wipe and a little alcohol. Clean the threads on the head and body(Tail if so). Then apply some nano-oil to the threads screw it back on all the way. There is the battery spring which applies outward force on the threads. Using the same pulling outward with a screw and unscrew motion work the threads 5-6 times, loosen head about 1/2 turn and repeat. Clean. More oil, check feel. Usually 2-3 times works. No downward force to minimize head loosening(will wear overtime) unless I feel trouble with it. The tailcaps screw tight to the end of the battery tube, so you can do in either outward, inward, or combo of both. Clean it again until techtip wipes are coming clean. Air dry for 5 minutes. Clean electric contact points with Deoxit gold, Re-oil head, reassembly and grease o-ring(s), (screw tailcap on), load battery(s), and screw head on. Test.
GL

Thanks a lot GL!
I am going for Nano-Oil too and i will try it the same way you do it. ( if you think that you could optimize/edit your above post of description of activities please feel free any time to do so thx ) Sounds very elaborate.

Cleaning and lubing is definitely part of the fun

 

[jorn]

I simply used rubbing paste instead of oil on my preon ti's. The threads got smooth within a hour of griding. Just clean and lube it well afterward, and it's as smooth as ti threads will get.

 

[shelm]

I simply used rubbing paste instead of oil on my preon ti's. The threads got smooth within a hour of griding.

i think we can use Nano-oil too for 1 hour of grinding

 

[jorn]

Difference is, that one lubes and preserves, and the other does the oposite. (grinds really slowly and leaves a smooth polished like surface.) I was cleaning/twisting/lubing my ti preon for days not getting close to as smooth as i wanted it to be. With some turtle wax heavy rubbig, it was in a different league in a hour. The more you use it, the smoother it gets. The rubbing speeds up the prosses drastically on ti. Used 1/2 a drop on the threads, dident want to make a mess on the driverboard.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Got a mini AA high CRI, a Preon 2 yellow body, and a "S" Quark tactical 2X123.

No problems with any of em. They come on, change modes, and turn off properly.
If I were planning on using them for other things besides providing light in casual settings then I may possibly run into issues. Plan ahead, carry 2.
Right tool for the right job.

 

[ganymede]

I bought a Mini AA a few years ago, and then one more recently. I have sold them both, but the recent one appeared to be of much lower quality, as far as the threading goes. It was much sloppier, with frequent mode skips. The first one had a defined moment the light would activate. The second one felt like it was trying to activate over a much larger range of the twist, resulting in flickers and skips. This is what I mean by sloppy.

It is possible that it was a bad one out of a good batch, but I assumed that they had changed manufacturers between the two models I owned, with the second manufacturer producing lower quality lights.

I am actually looking at the Mini AA and Mini 123. Can you elaborate a but more on the problems you have with you Mini AA?

Thanks.

 

[AlphaZen]

I am actually looking at the Mini AA and Mini 123. Can you elaborate a but more on the problems you have with you Mini AA?

Thanks.

Not really, beyond what I already said. The quality of the light as a whole is fine for the price and you may be happy with it. The threads on the second one I owned were more sloppy, as described in my previous post. I didn't sell them because I thought they were bad lights and one may suit you fine.

I actually sold them because I don't like the UI. Twisting back and forth 5 times to get to high just didn't work for me.

I recently acquired a Thrunite T10 that is in my pocket every day and I love it. Very tight threads and well spaced levels, including firefly, with mode memory. It is what I wanted the Mini AA to be.

 

[Racer]

I recently acquired a Thrunite T10 that is in my pocket every day and I love it. Very tight threads and well spaced levels, including firefly, with mode memory. It is what I wanted the Mini AA to be.

+1

 

[Ualnosaj]

To their credit the shipping is fast.

New toys have arrived...

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Posted from my phone.

 

[Ualnosaj]

That's the stuff I mean. C'mon your logo is crooked and not sharp, and scratched off some places. The packing, extras (love the holster actually) but the attention to detail on the light itself...

Ok I have to get back to work first and stop being distracted...


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Posted from my phone.

 

[Got Lumens?]

i think we can use Nano-oil too for 1 hour of grinding

I am doing a video to show details of using Nano-oil to seat and mesh the threads. Should be up later tonight.

@Jorn, I have tried many pastes, cigarette ashes(worked good but messy), and different oils, they all have worn the threads evenly, and not concentrated on the load bearing side of the Ti threads. Another point to this reasoning is that Four Sevens uses square threads and not standard threads. The different pastes oils and rubs work very well with standard threads, but their caracteristics of how they work are better suited for standard threads, as they tend to cause square threads to be smooth, they have caused threads to be looser in the Four Sevens lights I have tried them on.
GL

 

[jorn]

The minis got normal, non square threads.

 

[hazna]

That's the stuff I mean. C'mon your logo is crooked and not sharp, and scratched off some places. The packing, extras (love the holster actually) but the attention to detail on the light itself...

I can see what you mean by the off centre logo. While it doesn't actually affect the light's function, it doesn't reflect well on the quality control of the brand.

I haven't had that issue with my older 4sevens lights, maybe there having some manufacturing issues?

 

[Ualnosaj]

Actually I'm much happier about these ones. Will post later.


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Posted from my phone.

 

[Got Lumens?]

The minis got normal, non square threads.

Jorn Thank You for the clarification. Yes. The minis that are annodized have standard threads. The Turbo Ti that I have is square. The Mini123 Ti's that I have, have what looks like to be inbetween or modified normal. I don't have a miniAA Ti to compare. The Preon Ti's I have are square threaded. I will do some pictures, and will post them later. I will try to be more specific and detailed.
GL

 

[jorn]

My normal "lego type" quarks got square threads. My mini's, and preon's, got normal threads. You would have to work really hard to wear out ti with rubbig. Even with the fast-cut rubbig we use at work. It will only smooth out microscopic imperfections where the threads meet. Threads are still sharp, but smooth where they need to be.

 

[Got Lumens?]

My normal "lego type" quarks got square threads. My mini's, and preon's, got normal threads. You would have to work really hard to wear out ti with rubbig. Even with the fast-cut rubbig we use at work. It will only smooth out microscopic imperfections where the threads meet. Threads are still sharp, but smooth where they need to be.

Still working on taking some more photos, it is hard without a 'real' camera and a macro lense. The pictures I took with my USB microscope are good, but the focal point only shows at one spot of the theads at a time. I have been using two Inovas with standard threads as a comparison. The annodized Minis and Preons appear as normal threaded. The Ti Minis and Ti Preons appear to be modified and not square or standard. They have a flattened peak and a wider base angle than standard threads. That is why I had said square, but they are not, after carefully re-examining them, just as you have said.

Do you do both mating surfaces push and pull? Do you clean the threads totally after you use the rubbig? I have noticed that the oil on my Ti's gets grungy and metal colored after a weeks use, and needs to be cleaned. I beleive that rubbig is doing a one shot polish, and would like to know if yours get grungy and metal colored, or do they stay clean?
GL