That's a great idea, the switch is the only thing i dont like and dont trust on these akorays. oops i just understood you change the tailcap only, true that actioning the switch is a bit hard.
Sorry i wasn't of any help by the way.
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AKOray AA & AAA Review + RUNTIME
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That's a great idea, the switch is the only thing i dont like and dont trust on these akorays. oops i just understood you change the tailcap only, true that actioning the switch is a bit hard.
Sorry i wasn't of any help by the way.
funkychateau
Enlightened
I have a metal lathe, but have no idea how to cut that style thread. I mostly do pool-cue work, where there is little threading to be done.
I too, think a 2xAA option would be super for this light. It's the brightest, most versatile 1x14500 unit I've ever seen, but the runtime is short.
I also worry that the regulator is a boost-only and has gone into direct-drive when I drop in a 14500. It's almost as if this wasn't really a designed-in operating condition, but they found it would survive so they listed it as a feature.
I replaced the rubber boot. The switch itself isn't that bad. It feels like any other reverse switch i have. However, it looks like it could take another type of switch with just a bit of work. I might do an emitter switch later on to get rid of the dark ring around the hotspot, but I just received my Romisen RC-A4 so it gets my attention first. The quality seems superb for a sub-$15 light. It impresses me more than my RC-N3 Q5.
mmmflashlights
Enlightened
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Just the tailcap/button, not the switch. It's too bad they put a crappy CREE in mine. The ring around the dome is browned and spotty. It gives a heavy, thick dark ring in my beam profile. But for now, I'm just glad it's working. Emitter swap should solve the issue later. :twothumbs
My AK16 Cree also has a 'blemished' looking ring. And I also have a splotchy ring around the hotspot, I think I mentioned it in an earlier post. I had noticed the blemished ring when I received the light, but I didn't think that it could be the cause of the darkened ring. I'm not sure I understand how it would impact the beam, but perhaps it does, somehow...
superpila
Newly Enlightened
Just got my second akoray ak106 (had given the previous one away).
It doesn't look as bright as my Ultrafire C3 SS Q5, which I got in the meanwhile and which suddently became my favourite edc. on 14500 I've measured 0.8A current on the highest setting, versus the 1.2A of the Ultrafire C3. But the weird thing I've noticed is that the emitter is actually smaller! It seems to me that the emitter size is the one of an XPE, while the package is the one of the XRE. Something in between a regular XRE and the XPE.
I took a Picture of three heads: from left to right: Ultrafire C3 ss (xre q5), the akoray ak106 (should be XRE-q5 too) and a aurora sh0030 (xpe q5).
Did someone notice the same issue on his akoray?
It doesn't look as bright as my Ultrafire C3 SS Q5, which I got in the meanwhile and which suddently became my favourite edc. on 14500 I've measured 0.8A current on the highest setting, versus the 1.2A of the Ultrafire C3. But the weird thing I've noticed is that the emitter is actually smaller! It seems to me that the emitter size is the one of an XPE, while the package is the one of the XRE. Something in between a regular XRE and the XPE.
I took a Picture of three heads: from left to right: Ultrafire C3 ss (xre q5), the akoray ak106 (should be XRE-q5 too) and a aurora sh0030 (xpe q5).
Did someone notice the same issue on his akoray?
Looks like one of the new XR-Es using the smaller die: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/234821
It seems that there is not a great homogeneity in the current on high when comparing these akoray lights.
I have 3 of them (K-106, K-109, AK-16) and all three on high with fresh li-ion give ~ 1.9A current, but reading what other people report i see that it's very variable.
I don't know if yours is the same as mine, but my original K-106 had a dark ring around it, too. When I swapped it with an R2, the darking hotspot ring was reduced. The only difference I could tell is that the original had the new, smaller die. The reflectors may not be optimal for the new die size.
superpila,
I have an AK-16 and K-106. When both using NIMH, the AK-16 is brighter, although I had an R2 in the K-106. I'm guessing that the circuits may vary a bit. Otherwise, I measure my AK-16 with RCR123 to be 0.02A(min based on my trigger finger), 0.25A, and 1.20A(max). My DMM was $4, so you can assume a fairly large margin of error (hence only 2 decimal places).
superpila
Newly Enlightened
doh! You're right. I had missed that post. Thanks!
some time ago i've suggested to use an extension tube for getting a 2AA lamp. now, ive measured the current with 2 gp recyko in the lamp (without extension tube, just on the desk) and got a current of 3,4 Amps...this is way too much, it seems like the driver isn't made to work in the range of 2V...
radu1976
Enlightened
What is the difference between AKORAY K-106 and PDC AK-16 ???
Isn't about the same light ?
My K-106 is in fact a P.D.C. K-105 - that appears being written on the body - . It was got about half a year ago.
Isn't about the same light ?
My K-106 is in fact a P.D.C. K-105 - that appears being written on the body - . It was got about half a year ago.
radu1976
Enlightened
C'est bien a savoir ! Merci !
I received my DX lights yesterday (USPS required signature for delivery, for some reason...there was nothing on the packaging that indicated that was necessary ).
Initial impressions: the K-106 tail buttons are shockingly difficult to press (coming from the silent and easy-to-operate piston drive of the Nitecore D10). The Nitecore also feels like a more substantial light, with better fit and finish, smoother threads, and a UI that's less finicky than the DX lights.
The glow in the dark rubber parts on the 5-mode K-106 are pretty neat, and both the Akorays have surprisingly good quality for sub $20 lights. I'm not sure how well the clips will hold up, but at least they are removable.
I'm going to play with these lights further, but as of right now, if I could only have one light, I'd go with the Nitecore if I could afford it. However, if I couldn't afford the Nitecore, I'd probably be happy settling with the Akorays (I liked the 3-Mode better of the two, since I could program the modes to avoid strobe and SOS).
Here are some pics.
1. Straight out of the packaging:
2. 3-Mode K-106 on the left, 5-Mode in the middle, and D10 on the right:
3. Beam shots:
).Initial impressions: the K-106 tail buttons are shockingly difficult to press (coming from the silent and easy-to-operate piston drive of the Nitecore D10). The Nitecore also feels like a more substantial light, with better fit and finish, smoother threads, and a UI that's less finicky than the DX lights.
The glow in the dark rubber parts on the 5-mode K-106 are pretty neat, and both the Akorays have surprisingly good quality for sub $20 lights. I'm not sure how well the clips will hold up, but at least they are removable.
I'm going to play with these lights further, but as of right now, if I could only have one light, I'd go with the Nitecore if I could afford it. However, if I couldn't afford the Nitecore, I'd probably be happy settling with the Akorays (I liked the 3-Mode better of the two, since I could program the modes to avoid strobe and SOS).
Here are some pics.
1. Straight out of the packaging:
2. 3-Mode K-106 on the left, 5-Mode in the middle, and D10 on the right:
3. Beam shots:
Beacon of Light
Flashlight Enthusiast
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I don't want to read through all pages of this thread. Can someone tell me what the runtime on low is for either the K-106 or K-109? Thanks.
mmmflashlights
Enlightened
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- Mar 24, 2007
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I just measured my K-109 to answer that, I have the more expensive K-109 though both may have the same circuit. With a rechargeable at ~4V, current draw was around 65ma, with a fresh primary CR123 at around 3.2V it was around 80ma, and with an almost shot CR123 at about 2.8V it was around 105ma. So with a decent rechargeable an estimate would be around 9-10 hours, and with a good primary of around 1400ma capacity I'd say around 14-16 hours.
I don't have the cheaper K-106 (non-programmable) but assuming the same circuit as the K-109 I would estimate maybe a 10% runtime increase with a 14500, and a similar 14-16 hours with an alkaline or high capacity NiMH.
If you're asking about the programmable K-106, if you set the output as low I've been able to on my light, with either a 14500 or 1.2/1.5 cell you should be able to achieve 40-60 hours.
vali
Enlightened
I got 37 hours with the programmable K-106 and an eneloop. Some days ago someone tested one of the same model and got only 26 hours (IIRC).
In practical use they last almost forever. I use it as a vampire for some "used" alkies a friend gave me and they run for a long long time.
squaat
Newly Enlightened
just got my order of akoray k 106's from DX the other day.
I have to say I'm impressed. I ordered 5 of these babies and all are destined to be gifts for non-flashaholics. I think it should blow them away. almost tempted to keep one for myself.
My initial impressions are:
Beam Pattern
Hot spot seems tighter than my l2d, but the spill area seems to be wider. Hard to visually judge any practical throw advantage over the l2d. Does definitely throw further than my LD01 though.
Beam is a tad ringy, especially around the hotspot, but in practical use it is unnoticable.
Looking at the emitter it seems smaller than the emitter in my l2d q5 and ld01 (both are xr-e) not sure if this is an xp-e or not, but it would explain the tighter hot spot.
Beam color
Very cold, I'd almost say a blueish tinge. Though the blueness is only noticable when compared side by side with my l2d, which is on the slightly warmer side of cool.
The low isn't as low as I'd like it, and it seems brighter than my l2d low, though that could just be tint playing with me.
Build Quality
Very highespecially for a sub $20 light. Seriously they could easily sell this in a regular hardware store (though they'd probably need to make it non programable).
When it comes to cheap lights I expect rough finishing (burs, crappy threads, bad anodization) but this is a very good example. The only cheap looking thing is the plastic bit on the end of the clip... are you meant to remove that?
All 5 samples had great threads and i like how easy it is to remove the clip.
Programming problems / issues.
Its very hard to get medium set right. And many times I end up getting low -> max -> max when I try for low -> med -> max.
Actually it's almost buggy, many times I'll end up with low -> max -> max even when I'm 100% sure that mode 2 was not programmed for max! (in one case I was trying out low -> low -> low and I got low -> max -> max!) Usually the problem goes away if I re-program it for something totally different (eg max -> strobe -> SOS) and then try again.
Oh and as others have mentioned the ramp speed is way too fast. (my wish was that it was at least 2 or 3 times slower with a pause at low and medium)
Actually it's a tad frustrating at times.
Da Button
I have no probs with the button. Yes it's not as clickable as a protuding clicky, but it does the job for me. Could be an issue for people with big hands.
Conclusion
Personally I prefer the beam pattern and color of my l2d. Though the finishing on Akoray is very good. Time will tell how well the anodization holds up.
The programibility would be better if it wasn't so buggy and the ramping wasn't so fast.
I'm not a fan of the memory mode and I wish it didn't have that. But for my purposes (pre programmed as gifts for non flashaholics) this flashlight is awesome. Bang for buck you can't go wrong here. Heck these would be awesome as a backup light in a car... perhaps I should order some more.
I have to say I'm impressed. I ordered 5 of these babies and all are destined to be gifts for non-flashaholics. I think it should blow them away. almost tempted to keep one for myself.
My initial impressions are:
Beam Pattern
Hot spot seems tighter than my l2d, but the spill area seems to be wider. Hard to visually judge any practical throw advantage over the l2d. Does definitely throw further than my LD01 though.
Beam is a tad ringy, especially around the hotspot, but in practical use it is unnoticable.
Looking at the emitter it seems smaller than the emitter in my l2d q5 and ld01 (both are xr-e) not sure if this is an xp-e or not, but it would explain the tighter hot spot.
Beam color
Very cold, I'd almost say a blueish tinge. Though the blueness is only noticable when compared side by side with my l2d, which is on the slightly warmer side of cool.
The low isn't as low as I'd like it, and it seems brighter than my l2d low, though that could just be tint playing with me.
Build Quality
Very highespecially for a sub $20 light. Seriously they could easily sell this in a regular hardware store (though they'd probably need to make it non programable).
When it comes to cheap lights I expect rough finishing (burs, crappy threads, bad anodization) but this is a very good example. The only cheap looking thing is the plastic bit on the end of the clip... are you meant to remove that?
All 5 samples had great threads and i like how easy it is to remove the clip.
Programming problems / issues.
Its very hard to get medium set right. And many times I end up getting low -> max -> max when I try for low -> med -> max.
Actually it's almost buggy, many times I'll end up with low -> max -> max even when I'm 100% sure that mode 2 was not programmed for max! (in one case I was trying out low -> low -> low and I got low -> max -> max!) Usually the problem goes away if I re-program it for something totally different (eg max -> strobe -> SOS) and then try again.
Oh and as others have mentioned the ramp speed is way too fast. (my wish was that it was at least 2 or 3 times slower with a pause at low and medium)
Actually it's a tad frustrating at times.
Da Button
I have no probs with the button. Yes it's not as clickable as a protuding clicky, but it does the job for me. Could be an issue for people with big hands.
Conclusion
Personally I prefer the beam pattern and color of my l2d. Though the finishing on Akoray is very good. Time will tell how well the anodization holds up.
The programibility would be better if it wasn't so buggy and the ramping wasn't so fast.
I'm not a fan of the memory mode and I wish it didn't have that. But for my purposes (pre programmed as gifts for non flashaholics) this flashlight is awesome. Bang for buck you can't go wrong here. Heck these would be awesome as a backup light in a car... perhaps I should order some more.
Medium should be within 1-2 seconds of seeing the light ramp up start. You really should use a multimeter. I believe the ramp up is linear, and our eyesight is logarithmic, so it is difficult.
Harbor freight has decent multimeters for $4 this week, makes programming a cinch.
What's weird, is if you set the medium to be half power with nimh, it will be 1/4th power with li-ion. (700mA nimh, goes to 150mA with li-ion, which is 1/4th of the ~600mA max)
Harbor freight has decent multimeters for $4 this week, makes programming a cinch.
What's weird, is if you set the medium to be half power with nimh, it will be 1/4th power with li-ion. (700mA nimh, goes to 150mA with li-ion, which is 1/4th of the ~600mA max)
mmmflashlights
Enlightened
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- Mar 24, 2007
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squaat, you may not be getting your lights set as low as possible, as I believe they can be set a bit lower than a L2D. It was mentioned earlier that a lower voltage NiMH, the lowest low setting may not be available. You should try setting with a fresh Alkaline or LiIon and see if you can get a lower setting. I agree that it would be nice if ramping was slower.
