Also confused, too much

jjmarells

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Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
18
I am a Naturalist. I do night hikes for wildlife observation, trail walks, star watching. Looking for a torch that will light up trees(owls), fields(coyotes, skunks, big foots:) etc) and will be on,off wooded trails. So need long throw plus some wide spill. Also a red filter or LED would be nice. Need the batteries to last a while so don't know which are better Cr123 or AA. Was looking at Nitecore SRT 5,6,7; EA 8; P 12. Sunwayman lights. Trying to stay under $100. Any and all recommendations and advice gladly excepted. Right now I am using an old 6 volt, Brinkman, Krypton bulb, lantern.
Here is the checklist if that would be helpful.
Flashlight Recommendation Checklist================

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__X__This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :)

____I don't know yet
____Up to $25.
____Up to $50.
__X__Up to $100.
____Up to $200.
____Up to $300.
____Essentially unlimited.


3) Format:

____I am not sure, please help me decide.
__X__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
____I want a self-contained headlamp.
____I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.
____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)
____I want a lantern/area light.
____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).
____Other ____________________________________________


4) Size:

____MICRO - Keychain size.
____TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
__X__SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).
____MEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)
____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.
____I don't know/I don't care.


5) Emitter/Light source:

__X__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

__X__I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
____I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
____I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source).


7) What power source do you want to use?

__X__I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
__X__I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.
____I don't know/I need more information on power sources.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option
____I want a light that plugs directly into the wall (literally with prongs built into the light)
____I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
____I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)
____I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)
____I don't care


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
____I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
____I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
__X__I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
__X__I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
__X__I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

_X___SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

____All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.
____Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.
____Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
__X__Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
_X___Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
__X _30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
__X__50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
__X__90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
__X _3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).




11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
__X__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't know.


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

____Any size switch will do.
____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
____I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)
__X__I don't care.
___X_I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
__X__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
__X_I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
____I want SOS mode. (blinks in ---...--- emergency pattern)
____I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
__X__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.

15) Water resistance
____None needed
__X__IPX4 (Splash resistant)
__X__IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
____IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)

16) Storage conditions
__X__In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
____Emergency kit (long standby periods)
__X__Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
____Other_________________________________________ ____


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

__X__Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
__X__Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
__X__Pocket/belt clip
__X__Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments
 

tubed

Enlightened
Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
297
Most of the lights you mentioned (and many more) will work fine for what you want. so, in some respects, you can't go wrong with any of those.
I would just throw in that if you use this light more than a little, you will go through a lot of batteries which is n't cheap and not great for environment (figured that would be important to you). So, I would consider making the leap to Li Ion rechargeable batteries - not too difficult to use safely with a little education that can be found on this site.
If you want to stick with AAs you will really need a charger and some NiMH rechargeables. Even a low-priced one with 4 batteries will set you back ~$20-30 so factor that into your $100 budget.

Of the lights mentioned above - the Viking has great throw and wider beam than the Predator so it sounds a little better for your needs.
If you go with a AA light - I would recommend the Sunwayman D40. I gave it as a gift this year and was really impressed - plus it has nice moonlight mode that you will use to not ruin your night vision (you don't really need a red light if that is the reason). I also gave the Nitecore Ea4 as a gift and was less impressed. I found the switch difficult to use and the "low" was way too bright.
 

Chevy-SS

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
611
Location
Rhode Island
I don't have any lights with selector rings, so I'm hesitant to give a solid recommendation.

However, I have LOTS of assorted flashlights, using all kinds of batteries, and I am gonna say that you will NOT be happy with a AA light. Get one that uses either 2xCR123 or 18650. Lumens output is based on current flow, and AA batteries simply do not flow enough current to give very many lumens. Sounds like you're looking for LOTS of lumens, so stay away from AA lights. JMHO, of course. Good luck in your search......
 

RetroTechie

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 11, 2013
Messages
1,007
Location
Hengelo, NL
AA powered is fine when multiple AA's go into a light. The more AA's go in, the more performance (in output and/or runtime) one can expect. Of course: whether you get what can be expected, depends on the light itself.
 

jjmarells

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
18
Thanks for all the info/advice. I looked at the review of the Armytek, seems to do more than I need so probably won't go that way. Will stay away fro AA/AAA and go CR123-ish. How long do the Li-ion batts last per charge and per life of the batt(how many recharges can one expect over the life of the batt).
 

tubed

Enlightened
Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
297
I am not an expert on Li Ions but I believe they last for a LONG time and can give many, many, many recharges (How's that for accurate data :)).
What you could do (and I would recommend) is this. Get a modest charger like the nitecore/sysmax intellicharger for about $20. Then get a medium priced Li Ion 18650 for about $17. You'll be set for years. You can look for lights that take a single 18650 or 2 x cr123s -in case you find yourself out and unable to charge. CR123s are pretty expensive if purchased in regular stores. I've seen them for $7 per battery. You can do much better on line.
When I got into this. I got a light that took both. I went through 2 rounds of cr123s and the sucked it up and bought a charger and 18650. Haven't looked back.
 

ven

Flashaholic
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
22,533
Location
Manchester UK
May i suggest a little look into nichia 219 led in the business end,excellent colour rendition that will suit the wildlife watching,have a little search on it.

If suits thn look for a light based around that,if you find a light but no nichia option then i am sure vinh could sort it to be the perfect custom light,probably less than you could buy it for..............only thoughts:thumbsup:
 

jjmarells

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
18
Thanks for the hint on Li ion and charger. I see where one can get a nitecore SRT7 with 1 18650 and 2 Rcr123 and a JetBeam i4 Pro Intellicharger, Intelicharger Car Adapter all bundled together. Is that charger a good one? What mAh is the best for the RCR123a and 18650?
 
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tubed

Enlightened
Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
297
sounds good.
the mAh go from like 25000 to like 3400 and basically correspond to the capacity (duration the light can operate).
Somewhere on this site there is section/string on battery basics. I think it's called something like Battery University or something. go there and read up.
In general, I buy as many mAh as i'm willing to spend money (more mAh, more money) - however, recently I got 3400mAh battery and it barely fit in my light (big diameter). there are actually some batteries that won't fit in some lights.
If you're only going to be using the light for a couple hours in between charges you might not want to spend for the really high mAh batteries. If long runs are important than you probably do.
That nitecore is very popular around here and seems great - I personally, have had a bad experience with nitecore (low quality) and look elsewhere these days. Nitecore lights seem to be loaded with lots of gimicks (like the multi colors on that one) To me, it's just more to break.
Oh, and I don 't know anything about RCRs
good luck!
 

jjmarells

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Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
18
Nitecore Chameleon CU6

Boy there sure are a lot of torches to think about. I was looking over nitecores and see they have an Ultraviolet one chameleon CU6. I don't see any reviews about it. Plenty on the other chameleons. I like to get out and look for florescent things at night and this might be a good choice, but I would like to see how it actually works and what the throws are for the UV and white. Anybody seen this one work yet?
Still haven't made up mind for reg. type torches.
 

jjmarells

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
18
Still thinking

Ok. Am still thinking about which light to get. I am now looking at Nitecore SRT6 or P16. I like the option of red filter for night time vision. I know SRT7 has red led in them but also a lot of other features I don't really need. But what I am wondering about is the fliters you can get for the other two. I wonder how the red filters work. Are they easy to put on and take off, is there any problem with filter on and light on turbo/high. Any one know?
 

Doug

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Joined
Jan 4, 2001
Messages
962
Location
SoCal
Re: Nitecore Chameleon CU6

Just got mine today, interesting to see what glows, and what does not.... My shower has speckling, spots all over the place.... which appears to just be the soap..... It was interesting to point the light at the toilet bowl after taking a ****, and seeing the yellow light glow so brightly.... Some things will be VERY bright... it's surprising, and you still have the other colors, like blue to use for finding stuff. And I found that UV is good for finding those spots in the corner where the vac missed :O. Opps.....
 

jjmarells

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Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
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Re: Nitecore Chameleon CU6

How far out can does the UV "throw". Also where did you purchase it?
 

jonwkng

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Jun 12, 2013
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1,994
Location
Singapore
Re: Nitecore Chameleon CU6

Hi guys,

Remember to use the appropriate eye protection when using UV emitters. :cool: Have fun with your lights!

Hi jjmarells,
The Nitecore CU6 has a pretty decent reflector (About the same size as the white output reflector). Should be sufficient throw for scorpion spotting and such. Short of getting a UV drop-in, I think for a stock light the CU6 offers pretty high UV output.
 
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Doug

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Joined
Jan 4, 2001
Messages
962
Location
SoCal
Re: Nitecore Chameleon CU6

Hi guys,

Remember to use the appropriate eye protection when using UV emitters. :cool: Have fun with your lights!

Hi jjmarells,
The Nitecore CU6 has a pretty decent reflector (About the same size as the white output reflector). Should be sufficient throw for scorpion spotting and such. Short of getting a UV drop-in, I think for a stock light the CU6 offers pretty high UV output.

Eye protection? I am not looking straight at the light.... The reflection from objects isn't enough to hurt our eyes, is it?! Where do you find "appropriate eye protection"?

Doug
 

Sierra_Bill

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Joined
Dec 18, 2004
Messages
107
Location
Northern California
Re: Nitecore Chameleon CU6

Eye protection? I am not looking straight at the light.... The reflection from objects isn't enough to hurt our eyes, is it?! Where do you find "appropriate eye protection"?

Doug

Depends on how strong the light is and whether it's a specular reflection. The first rule of life is that accidents happen. You could be out in the woods or in your back yard, and just by accident play the beam across a curved reflective surface (the inside of a broken bottle, for example) that concentrates the beam at your eye. This source suggests that you should not look directly at an LED: http://www.electronicsweekly.com/ne...ting/ensuring-safety-in-led-lighting-2012-11/. Also bear in mind that your pupils may be wide open in the dark or semi-dark when you use the light. That means the effective aperture could be up to ten times as large in area as it would be in bright conditions, letting in more UV than you would expect.

Sunlight is only 3% UV at the Earth's surface, but a 365nm light emits nearly 100% UV even though it's summed intensity of light emission is much lower. I did some quick and dirty calculations and came to the conclusion that a one-watt 365nm beam reflected into the eye *might* just get you more UV than you would get in bright daylight. Maybe I'm wrong and perhaps someone who knows more can shed more light on this (no pun intended). I suggest it would be best to not take chances with this kind of LED.

I (nearly!) always wear my UV-blocking eyeglasses (just ordinary lenses made to block UV when out in the sunlight) even with low-powered UV lights. At some level of power (this needs some research) one should be wearing UV-blocking goggles instead of glasses, so reflected UV doesn't get to your eyes around the edge of the glasses. I intend to order some myself due to upcoming purchases of much more powerful UV units. I would definitely wear goggles when using one-watt or greater units, but this might be advisable at lower power levels.

Here are some UV goggles:

http://www.xenopuselectronix.com/xeled/Accessories.html
http://www.edmundoptics.com/lab-production/adhesives/uv-safety-protective-eyewear/1604
 

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