Any such thing as a GOOD, low current PR2-base LED?

[xxo]

Looking through the comments on Flashlight Museum there was at least one poster who who said as much about preferring the GT Price over Fultons. Another poster mentioned having a military anglehead made by Bright Star. Pretty sure all that I used in my military days were Fultons but it has been a long time and I didn't keep any of them. Throw may have never been part of the plan with the anglehead design anyway,light discipline standards required low output.I had a 3D incan Maglite then (still have that one) and it was "too bright" to use most of the time even with my home made blue lens cover. LED lights were about 10 years down the road so it was all battery devouring incans.

Bright Star made moon beams during the Vietnam war (don't know if they made them post war. Never seen one with switch guards which were phased in in the 70's and 80's, same thing with USA Lite).


G.T. Price made MX991's post Vietnam w/switch guards.....they got out of the flashlight business in the late 90's and Fulton bought their manufacturing tooling.

 

[ZMZ67]

Good info. xxo! Maybe I will try to pick one up eventually for the sake of comparison,at the very least I will be on the look out when I spy an anglehead for sale.

 

[Alaric Darconville]

I hope I am not overselling the Fulton drop-in but I like the fact that it focuses well in the anglehead.
The hot spot has a definitive yellow in the center as well as a yellow halo around the edge of the hot spot and there are some rings visible in the spill.

Does it still work well with the blue lens for fluorescing certain things, and blood tracking and the like?

Currently, my 'main' Fulton uses a Krypton PR2 bulb, and usually has a diffuser lens permanently installed (the one I'm using has 1 mil Kapton tape for selective yellow light). I'm not sure how well any of the filters will work with an LED drop-in.
(Also, I'd like to get a green and a yellow non-diffuser lens just to be very complete about it.)

 

[Bimmerboy]

Does it still work well with the blue lens for fluorescing certain things, and blood tracking and the like?

Just tried a comparison between the bulb and LED using the blue lens, but my only 2 D batteries are so low it's not a fair test as the bulb is extremely dim while the Nite Ize is much brighter on depleted cells.

I can say this though... the LED seems to work well with the blue lens! White objects do have that somewhat fluorescent look (though you'll get much better from a dedicated UV source and a clear lens). The bulb was so dim and yellow that only a very faint, useless purple was coming out. Fresh batteries may help it for a short while, but I think the LED will be the clear winner even there since incan bulbs don't have that blue spike in the spectrum like LED's.

Either way, the blue lens is dark! Really cuts a lot of output.

Also, I'd like to get a green and a yellow non-diffuser lens just to be very complete about it.

I'm right there with ya'! That, and more has now been ordered.

 

[Bimmerboy]

OK, I've gone a little nuts with this stuff. Just purchased a Fulton LED drop-in with no clamshells, and a W15 LED which looks to be exactly like a 993 but with a screw-on traffic wand instead of a regular bezel, and comes with the LED already in it, plus all 5 color filters including the white (still don't know what that one does... lol). I'll scavenge the bezel from my 993 to use when I don't want the wand on there.

Also gonna' call Fulton this week to ask if the reflectors from some of their other models will interchange with, or at least fit into the Anglehead. One reflector is a parabolic that gives a tight throwing spot with the incan bulb, and the other is a floody, faceted type they call "Magna Beam". I'll have to buy the entire lights that have them, but I've found a cheap enough source that makes the quest for the perfect, well equipped Fulton worthwhile.

Last, but not least, I'm about to get some AR coated lenses for this project in both glass and acrylic. Going off the deep end here!

Will report back.

 

[xxo]

The blue lens only works with incan bulbs for blood tracking. Incans make red and orange colors stand out through a blue filter while blue filtered LEDs make everything look blue/black. The best set up for blood tracking with these lights is a Mag 6 Cell xenon PR bulb (new bipin xenon bulbs won't work in a Fulton and krypton PR bulbs suck compared to the old PR xenons) and a couple of 3 AA to D cell Series adapters.


The white moonbeam lens is the blackout filter, which were used for signaling during blacked out vehicle convoys to keep enemy observers/aircraft from seeing the lights. These put out a dim glow that is only visible at short distances.

 

[Burgess]

Interesting thread here !

lovecpf


Just wanna' add that I was a BIG FAN
of the SMJLED PR-2 dropin replacements !


HOWEVER . . . . .

I quickly noticed the un-escapable fact
that those emitters VERY noticeably
Darken with Use !
< sigh >

Even when driven by Sanyo Eneloop NiMH's.
(as opposed to Alkaline D cells)

Sadly, I could find NO way to avoid
them darkening, thereby yielding
greatly reduced lumen output.

:mecry:
_

 

[RobertMM]

So, the only long life PR base dropin is one made with a decent LED like the XPG2, but driven to only 50 lumens?

I like the idea but no one seems to make one.
The only make 200-300 lumen ones.

 

[Bimmerboy]

Just wanna' add that I was a BIG FAN
of the SMJLED PR-2 dropin replacements !


HOWEVER . . . . .

I quickly noticed the un-escapable fact
that those emitters VERY noticeably
Darken with Use !
< sigh >

I have one well used, and two unused. It's been over 7 years since putting a bunch of hours on it with D alkies, but I think it was still doing well. Will compare the brightness (and tailcap draw) of all three reasonably soon. I hope you're wrong!... lol.

 

[Burgess]

Sadly, I'm not wrong.

Wish I was.
:-(


Testing on my Sekonic DC308
digital light meter showed a drop of
more than a Full Stop.
< sigh >

Same with my Minolta Flashmeter III


Wish there was a PR-2 replacement
which draws less than 100mA current
and doesn't darken with use.


_

 

[xxo]

Sadly, I'm not wrong.

Wish I was.
:-(


Testing on my Sekonic DC308
digital light meter showed a drop of
more than a Full Stop.
< sigh >

Same with my Minolta Flashmeter III


Wish there was a PR-2 replacement
which draws less than 100mA current
and doesn't darken with use.


_

I think Newbie posted about that problem in a thread on this back in the day.

I haven't used them, but super bright LEDs has some lower lumen drop-ins.

 

[ZMZ67]

I would like to give Superbright's PR2-W1-WVR bulb a try eventually. Nothing spectacular I am sure but advertised to run on 1-6V it may be able to get the most out of old batteries. Might be a good back-up for lights like the Fulton that have a dedicated spot for spare bulbs since it is relatively inexpensive. No telling how it will work in the reflector till you get one in the light itself but beam quality is not quite as critical to me for a back-up bulb.

 

[Bimmerboy]

The Fulton stuff came in, and man... these drop-ins pull hard on two used D cells!

At 800mA in the old 993, and 1200mA in the new 993, they're considerably brighter than the 55 lumen Nite Ize, and nicely light up the wand so I'll definitely keep one for those times when I need to direct traffic at a major intersection, or guide a 747 off a runway. Haven't done either yet, but ya' just never know! But as a long running, power outage bulb for two alkalines, they're out of contention. I also think they're too bright for most SHTF use, and likely too little heatsinking for all that output.

Burgess - You are not wrong! Compared the used SMJLED to two unused, and there's quite a noticeable difference just by eye. A shame as they only draw about 80mA. Oh well, at least I'm good for the next couple hurricanes!

xx, and ZMZ - I'm also interested in trying the Superbright PR2-W1-WVR, but in a large reflector to try getting the most out of it. A low lumen, tightly focused spot works well for lighting an area using ceiling bounce. Hopefully they retain their output after some use.

 

[ZMZ67]

The Fulton stuff came in, and man... these drop-ins pull hard on two used D cells!

At 800mA in the old 993, and 1200mA in the new 993, they're considerably brighter than the 55 lumen Nite Ize, and nicely light up the wand so I'll definitely keep one for those times when I need to direct traffic at a major intersection, or guide a 747 off a runway. Haven't done either yet, but ya' just never know! But as a long running, power outage bulb for two alkalines, they're out of contention. I also think they're too bright for most SHTF use, and likely too little heatsinking for all that output.

Burgess - You are not wrong! Compared the used SMJLED to two unused, and there's quite a noticeable difference just by eye. A shame as they only draw about 80mA. Oh well, at least I'm good for the next couple hurricanes!

xx, and ZMZ - I'm also interested in trying the Superbright PR2-W1-WVR, but in a large reflector to try getting the most out of it. A low lumen, tightly focused spot works well for lighting an area using ceiling bounce. Hopefully they retain their output after some use.

I like the Fulton drop-ins for the output and better focus but I suspected they might not be great in the long run category since they were beating the Nite-Ize in output to my eyes as well. I will just back them up with a long running bulb or vice versa,keep them as a reserve for better output when efficiency is less of a concern.

For ceiling bounce I like the 6V lantern style flashlights but you would have to reverse the polarity for them to work with the Superbrights.Some older fashlights like the Eveready Captain have fairly large reflectors.I just picked up an old plastic three D at the thrift store that was in excellent condition with a large reflector so they can still be had if you look around.The old Mags that use PR base bulbs might be another option to a large reflector since they can be focused and throw well.You would just have to prop them up some way as they are not great as tail-standers.I am a big fan of the ceiling bounce indoors as it works better than dedicated camping lanterns to light up a room in my experience.

 

[Bimmerboy]

Some older fashlights like the Eveready Captain have fairly large reflectors.I just picked up an old plastic three D at the thrift store that was in excellent condition with a large reflector so they can still be had if you look around.The old Mags that use PR base bulbs might be another option to a large reflector since they can be focused and throw well.You would just have to prop them up some way as they are not great as tail-standers.

About 15 years ago, I did a mod named CSI (Crime Scene Illumination) using my very first "real" flashlight that came with a detective set including fingerprint powder, glass slides for examining blood samples under a microscope, images of facial parts to construct facial profiles, and a bunch of other cool stuff. The light has a rail on the bottom that kept the case closed (no pun intended), and turned the light into a carrying handle for the whole unit. I forget the name of this set, but it was one of the most awesome things made for kids.

Fast forward a million years... the case and everything in it is long gone, but the flashlight is somehow still in the garage with no lens, and the reflector's coating had almost completely evaporated. Found a dead Black and Decker wall hanging rechargeable light with the perfect size PR base reflector, also in the garage. Only problem was the outside flanges made the perimeter square. Long story short, I figured a way to make it round without a single speck getting on the surface. Placed it in the CSI, got some custom lenses made from another CPF member, stuck in the SMJLED bulb, and voila! I accidentally wound up with a super long running, cool looking 2D light with a pin spot that can throw 15 or so lumens halfway to the moon.

Funny you mention using a Mag. Earlier tonight I threw out an old 3D Mag LED destroyed by alkalines, but kept the head. Thinking of what to use it for I came up with an idea for a completely hideous mod which, if actually made, will be another emergency workhorse named "Maggie"... lol.

I am a big fan of the ceiling bounce indoors as it works better than dedicated camping lanterns to light up a room in my experience.

Agreed!

 

[ZMZ67]

About 15 years ago, I did a mod named CSI (Crime Scene Illumination) using my very first "real" flashlight that came with a detective set including fingerprint powder, glass slides for examining blood samples under a microscope, images of facial parts to construct facial profiles, and a bunch of other cool stuff. The light has a rail on the bottom that kept the case closed (no pun intended), and turned the light into a carrying handle for the whole unit. I forget the name of this set, but it was one of the most awesome things made for kids.

Fast forward a million years... the case and everything in it is long gone, but the flashlight is somehow still in the garage with no lens, and the reflector's coating had almost completely evaporated. Found a dead Black and Decker wall hanging rechargeable light with the perfect size PR base reflector, also in the garage. Only problem was the outside flanges made the perimeter square. Long story short, I figured a way to make it round without a single speck getting on the surface. Placed it in the CSI, got some custom lenses made from another CPF member, stuck in the SMJLED bulb, and voila! I accidentally wound up with a super long running, cool looking 2D light with a pin spot that can throw 15 or so lumens halfway to the moon.

Funny you mention using a Mag. Earlier tonight I threw out an old 3D Mag LED destroyed by alkalines, but kept the head. Thinking of what to use it for I came up with an idea for a completely hideous mod which, if actually made, will be another emergency workhorse named "Maggie"... lol.


Agreed!

Always nice when you can make use of old lights and spare parts :thumbsup: I am pretty sure there is an old Dorcy 6V lantern with a giant reflector sitting in the garage somewhere that could be a future project for me for a 2 cell mod or I could just be lazy and use four cells backwards in a D to 6V battery adapter to run a Superbright drop-in or one of my old Lux I Dorcy PR base drop-ins.

 

[ZMZ67]

Looking at the picture of the business end "1 watt" PR2-1WHP-9V on Superbrights site it appears to be exactly the same as the Fulton drop-in. The PR2-1WHP-9V is advertised to operate on 1-9V (there is also a 7-26V version). Just a random observation but I am wondering if this is the same drop-in as the Fulton? I think it may have been mentioned in another thread that Superbright is the source for the Fulton drop-in.Assuming it is the same as the Fulton that would rule out the PR2-1WHP-9V as an efficiency drop-in based on Bimmerboy's test.

Still looking at the at the low output PR2-W1-WVR from Superbrights as a possibility but I haven't come across anything else online that seems to fit the bill.

 

[Bimmerboy]

The LED board for the Superbright looks a little different than the Fulton (respectively, five of those aligned holes per side instead of four, lower quality looking soldering, cheaper looking LED), and the whole thing a little cheaper looking. Probably a different unit.

I'm gonna' pass on that one, but am still slightly interested in PR2-W1-WVR just to see the output vs. battery draw on 2 x D. Hoping it's a good replacement for the SMJLED that will suffer less lumen loss. Totally different beam profile from the shaved and polished SMJ, but if it works well in a large reflector...

As for the 991/U Anglehead, I'm betting the overall best drop-in is gonna' be the 55 lumen Nite Ize. Possibly the best combination of output, draw, and heat management?

 

[Bimmerboy]

BTW... I called Fulton the other day to ask if their "Magnabeam" and parabolic spot reflectors would fit in the 991, and unfortunately they won't. Diameter is too large. Can kinda' tell in various pictures too. :sigh:

 

[xxo]

As for the 991/U Anglehead, I'm betting the overall best drop-in is gonna' be the 55 lumen Nite Ize. Possibly the best combination of output, draw, and heat management?

I have been satisfied with the 55 L Nite Ize in the Fulton.....at least I havn't felt the need to find something else. Based on current draw, it should run for something like 60 hrs on a set of alkaline D cells, though I generally run mine on a 18650.