Anything new on the Cool Fall front?
- Thread starter ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
O K , I've just opened the package that "wasn't" delivered today!
A lo and behold there's a new heavier duty Pelican case inside.# 1010.
In the case we have a new TRI-V 3. No wait, this light has the wrong flood in it. No it can't be? This has got to be a TRI-V 2. O H, I forgot to read Data's note. I hope you enjoy your new TRI-V 2.Yikes ,it looks like I forgot to read the fine print, no wonder I got such a good deal! No, I already love it, so it's not going back! You can all just stop that snickering, right now! So there!
Anyway what's the big deal here? We got essentially a beautiful "new" light,(so what if it's made up from old parts from Data's famous drawer) ,with a fancy paracord lanyard, a spare regular lanyard with another split ring and 2 Surefire batteries. Not bad for the last TRI-V 2 ever made. And all this for $2000!!
Thanks a million Data.
A lo and behold there's a new heavier duty Pelican case inside.# 1010.
In the case we have a new TRI-V 3. No wait, this light has the wrong flood in it. No it can't be? This has got to be a TRI-V 2. O H, I forgot to read Data's note. I hope you enjoy your new TRI-V 2.Yikes ,it looks like I forgot to read the fine print, no wonder I got such a good deal! No, I already love it, so it's not going back! You can all just stop that snickering, right now! So there!
Anyway what's the big deal here? We got essentially a beautiful "new" light,(so what if it's made up from old parts from Data's famous drawer) ,with a fancy paracord lanyard, a spare regular lanyard with another split ring and 2 Surefire batteries. Not bad for the last TRI-V 2 ever made. And all this for $2000!!
Thanks a million Data.
Last edited:
Congrats Zandar! I hope you find many ways to enjoy it.
Dave, I'm trying to find the highest flood setting that is still safe to leave the light on indefinitely. Basically, the brightest setting where I can use it as a lantern. What mA do you recommend? (90 CRI 3000K XP-L flood emitter in the Tri-V3 here)
Dave, I'm trying to find the highest flood setting that is still safe to leave the light on indefinitely. Basically, the brightest setting where I can use it as a lantern. What mA do you recommend? (90 CRI 3000K XP-L flood emitter in the Tri-V3 here)
ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond
Flashlight Enthusiast
Spy Tri-V3 received today! 
I have to say I am VERY impressed. Definitely the best Spy to date. I am loving all the Style and Tech package extras. Time to get to programming and having some fun tonight off the deck!
I have to say I am VERY impressed. Definitely the best Spy to date. I am loving all the Style and Tech package extras. Time to get to programming and having some fun tonight off the deck!
Str8stroke
Flashlight Enthusiast
easilyled
Flashaholic
Congrats Sean and Str8! :thumbsup:
Str8stroke
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thank you easilyled.
I was going to email David, but I will post this question here. Others may have already asked this or considered this:
I know some members have decided to pass on getting a Tri because of the exposed emitter for fear of damaging. David says the odds of damage are slim. So my question is: can the emitter be covered and cavity filled in with something like Norland or crystal clear epoxy?
I doubt I am the first to think of or pose this question. How I thought of it was I was considering adding trits around the flood emitter. I can easily glue them in place, but I would be really neat to be able to fill the whole emitter area. Assuming the Norland wouldn't all leak behind the emitter and heat wouldn't be a issue.
Anyways, just a scatter brained thought I had. You folks thoughts?
I was going to email David, but I will post this question here. Others may have already asked this or considered this:
I know some members have decided to pass on getting a Tri because of the exposed emitter for fear of damaging. David says the odds of damage are slim. So my question is: can the emitter be covered and cavity filled in with something like Norland or crystal clear epoxy?
I doubt I am the first to think of or pose this question. How I thought of it was I was considering adding trits around the flood emitter. I can easily glue them in place, but I would be really neat to be able to fill the whole emitter area. Assuming the Norland wouldn't all leak behind the emitter and heat wouldn't be a issue.
Anyways, just a scatter brained thought I had. You folks thoughts?
Last edited:
Congrats as well. I'm suprised I got my light a day before you both! So picture this, I'm holding her in one hand and turning the knob with the other, Of course I'm tired, what could possibly go wrong you say, and naturally I'm admiring the amazingly small front end of this light and well I just kept turning that knob like it was my 007. Well you know what happens when you get to P6, it's wake up time! Thank godness my glasses blocked part of the aspheric's beam and that it was still set to the default output. I definitely saw those "stars"! Lesson learned. Don't be like me unless you are planning on donation your eyes to science in the next 5 minutes. And if you are being that generous, why in Hell would you spend $4000 on a light to help you "see" in the darkness when you are now blind?
I believe this suggestion was brought up in the past and the consensus was that covering the emitter could lead to excessive heat build up. And that over time the clear Norland might be prone to discloration and or cracking which could possibly damage the emitter.
Please anyone who has real world knowledge of the heat tolerance of Norland speak up and correct any errors in assumptions that I have made! In any case, based on past discussions with Data, I believe he would consider the act of covering the emitter to be a "modification of the light" that would void the lifetime warranty!
Please anyone who has real world knowledge of the heat tolerance of Norland speak up and correct any errors in assumptions that I have made! In any case, based on past discussions with Data, I believe he would consider the act of covering the emitter to be a "modification of the light" that would void the lifetime warranty!
Last edited:
Str8stroke
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks Zandar, I kinda figured such. But, I also figured it had not be addressed in a while and those were older versions. One of the reasons I posted this was for those whom may be curious on this new version.
As you could imagine, this is one of the only lights that I would in no way in the world do any thing that could void that awesome warranty.
As you could imagine, this is one of the only lights that I would in no way in the world do any thing that could void that awesome warranty.
Str8stroke
Flashlight Enthusiast
Launch Mini
Flashlight Enthusiast
As for trits around the flood, I wouldn't do it. Not so sure about the heat, but it would take away from the wide flood patter of that emitter.
Anything obstructing the sides, even small trits would interfere.
For a while I did have then in the slots for the rail adaptor. I just used white craft glue so easy to remove.
Anything obstructing the sides, even small trits would interfere.
For a while I did have then in the slots for the rail adaptor. I just used white craft glue so easy to remove.
Some questions need answered:
The highest programmed level I recommend for the flood is the same as the factory default level of 800mA. You can program it higher if you want to but please watch how hot it gets. There is so little metal in this light around the head to wick away the heat, especially the flood. I put brass under the flood and copper under the spot and reflector, but it only goes so far.
Putting anything around the flood is going to void the warrantee. On the other hand that does not mean I do not fix modded lights for free, I often do, but it all depends on what the cause of the failure is. There is no way you are going to damage the flood emitter unless you poke it with a hard object and that could also damage the aspheric coating. Please treat it like a fine pair of binoculars or an SLR camera lens, keep it in its own pocket with nothing else in there.
The problem with that Vault cap was it was assembled incorrectly. It is not much of a problem for me to fix as I only have to take the battery cap apart and reassemble it. Tapping very lightly on the Vault spot where the release button would be on a standard battery cap, is all he had to do to release the cap. It was something I did not anticipate.
The PU2 lock is still there if you want to use it. I did not remove it because some people selected lights without the Vegas knob. Sorry, there are no Easter eggs in the new light.
The voltage cut off software is in the Tri-V3. It is active in slot 3 and slot 4. When it triggers it simply shuts the light off but it does not put the light in a deep sleep. It triggers at about 3.25V and that is sometimes a droop under a higher load at first. So you can often just turn the light off and back on to a lower level for a little more light.
Cheers
Dave
The highest programmed level I recommend for the flood is the same as the factory default level of 800mA. You can program it higher if you want to but please watch how hot it gets. There is so little metal in this light around the head to wick away the heat, especially the flood. I put brass under the flood and copper under the spot and reflector, but it only goes so far.
Putting anything around the flood is going to void the warrantee. On the other hand that does not mean I do not fix modded lights for free, I often do, but it all depends on what the cause of the failure is. There is no way you are going to damage the flood emitter unless you poke it with a hard object and that could also damage the aspheric coating. Please treat it like a fine pair of binoculars or an SLR camera lens, keep it in its own pocket with nothing else in there.
The problem with that Vault cap was it was assembled incorrectly. It is not much of a problem for me to fix as I only have to take the battery cap apart and reassemble it. Tapping very lightly on the Vault spot where the release button would be on a standard battery cap, is all he had to do to release the cap. It was something I did not anticipate.
The PU2 lock is still there if you want to use it. I did not remove it because some people selected lights without the Vegas knob. Sorry, there are no Easter eggs in the new light.
The voltage cut off software is in the Tri-V3. It is active in slot 3 and slot 4. When it triggers it simply shuts the light off but it does not put the light in a deep sleep. It triggers at about 3.25V and that is sometimes a droop under a higher load at first. So you can often just turn the light off and back on to a lower level for a little more light.
Cheers
Dave
ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks for the info Dave.
Can you elaborate on the voltage cutoff? What do you mean exactly when you say it is active in slots 3 and 4? Does that mean you can't use CR123 primaries in slots 3 and 4.
Can you elaborate on the voltage cutoff? What do you mean exactly when you say it is active in slots 3 and 4? Does that mean you can't use CR123 primaries in slots 3 and 4.
That is correct, slot 1 and 2 are for primaries and slot 3 and 4 are for rechargeable bats.
KuanR
Flashlight Enthusiast
I agree with Dave on limiting the flood emitter to close to stock power levels. I have mine set to 1000mA and it gets uncomfortably hot around it.
Thanks for clarifying the battery cap issue Dave. I am still using it and whenever it jams, I just give it a tap like you said. What's odd now is it happens more frequently now but it always opens back up with a tap
Thanks for clarifying the battery cap issue Dave. I am still using it and whenever it jams, I just give it a tap like you said. What's odd now is it happens more frequently now but it always opens back up with a tap
