Best protected 18650 batteries out now for flashlights?

brightex

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It has been discussed on whether you really need a protected lithium battery, before discussing this let me point out that lithium batteries as has recently happened with the Galaxy Note 7 phones, can explode or self ignite. For this reason having a protected battery preventing the battery from reverse changing is a very important safety feature, though it does make the battery more expensive.

Now if you have a charger that is also reverse polarity protected than even if you have a non protected battery it will not be damaged if placed the wrong way in the charger.

Unfortunately there are many low grade batteries and substandard charges sold on the market or supplied with flashlights, so you have to be very careful about the battery that you use and the charger you are using.

Our recommendation is to only buy quality protected batteries making sure that the rated capacity (mAh) is the real capacity (In many cases the rated capacity is much higher than the actual capacity). It can be easily verified when testing the battery as per the below picture.

Also make sure you have a quality charger that is UL certified (confirming to the US Safety Standards) there are many dangerous cheap chargers, do yourself a favor and avoid them. Check for the UL marking on your charger. Also verify the charging current is at least 1000mA unless you want to wait for hours until your battery is charged! (See below picture)

Here is an article with some additional information on the subject
Good Luck
 

StorminMatt

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Was keeping an eye out for the 3600, but that never got back in stock. I'm guessing the 3600 is similar to the 3400.

I wouldn't worry too much about finding the 3600. The 3600mAH cell is the Panasonic NCR18650G. Somehow, this cell never became common. All kinds if theories exist as to why this is. But the reality is that it was never a whole lot better than the 3400. All of the new 3500s actually match or exceed the capacity of this cell at current draws below what most flashlights draw.
 

SilverFox

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Hello Brightex,

Welcome to CPF.

Keep in mind that the Galaxy phones were equipped with a protection circuit and carried the CE label which is similar to the UL label.

Samsung tried to push the limits and provide a battery with higher capacity in a smaller size and a phone that was ultra thin. This combination was unable to withstand every day use and the battery ended up getting damaged. The recall is the result of an engineering and design error.

You can simulate this by taking an 18650 protected cell and beat on the side of it with a hammer. Eventually the separator will fail and the cell will "rapidly vent, sometimes with flame" or explode...

If your light or application has protection built in bare cells are OK. When your light or application has no protection built in, then protected cells have a place. The biggest problem is that the protection circuit is one more thing that can fail so in critical applications it still may be better to go with bare cells. However, if you abuse the cell you need to understand that you simply recycle it and replace it with a new cell. If you don't have this discipline, only use protected cells and carry a back up in case you drop your light and damage the protection circuit.

Tom
 

lumen aeternum

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True. I think it's because the lines between high capacity and high drain cells are shrinking so much that there's not as much need anymore for protected cells. The days of single lithium ion and 2x cr123 compatible lights are mostly over so the new lights have very good lvp built in and high cap cells are much less likely to vent with flame than the old chemistry. Not trying to start a protected vs non here that's been hashed out elsewhere
To the op: if you really need protected cells try to find the 3500mah ones from a reputable company. Most likely it will be the GA cell. Not that the difference of 3400 to 3500 is much a difference in capacity but the quality of the cell is much better. Just look at hjk's site with his comparator and look at the 3400mah Panasonic ncrB against just about any other 3000mah+ cell and look at where the voltage is at any point in the graph. The difference will be significant. It means a DD light will be brighter and a regulated light will stay in regulation much longer on high(not necessarily step down turbo modes).

why do you think that dual-battery type lights are done for? Because people will opt for mega-lumens requiring a high cap&drain lithium?
Is GA a chemistry or a manufacturer?
URL for hjk site?

Are "high drain" cells only useful for modded lights, or are there moderately priced, out of the box lights that can utilize them?
 

vicv

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It's for no reason except they're not offered much anymore. And when they are they have low voltage protection so you don't get full use of primaries.
Sanyo 18650ncrga is a cell from sanyo
High drain cells are useful for all lights. They give better voltage under load so even on a high mode of 2 or 3 amps you'll stay in regulation longer. They're also a more robust chemistry. Can handle deeper accidental discharges without as much damage
 

lumen aeternum

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It's for no reason except they're not offered much anymore.

Huh? Show me a 1x 18650 that _doesn't_ also use 2x cr123.

> And when they are they have low voltage protection so you don't get full use of primaries
>

But if you don't have protection in the light, then you need to use protected batteries, right? I would presume that the battery circuit on a high-drain battery is designed to allow it to put out high amps.
 

vicv

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Just about every 7135 driver based light. So almost all p60 drop ins. Every light that uses a fet driver like the blf lights from banggood. All of vinh's lights. Just because 2x cr123 physically fit doesn't mean they're ok to use. Any 1000+ lumen light is very hard on 2x cr123 so shouldn't be used
You don't need to use protected cells. Just keep an eye on it
All quality protected 18650 can be used in ~1000 lumen lights. That's only a ~3A load but high drain would give better regulated runtime
 

chaosdsm

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My favorite is the Orbtronic 3500mAh dual-protection 10A high-drain cell. Panasonic/Sanyo cell inside with Seiko designed protection circuit, but a bit pricey, and at 68.9mm long, could be a tight fit.
 

lumen aeternum

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>So almost all p60 drop ins.

So when you put a drop in into your Surefire, it no longer works with 2 x c123?
 

Collins

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My favorite is the Orbtronic 3500mAh dual-protection 10A high-drain cell. Panasonic/Sanyo cell inside with Seiko designed protection circuit, but a bit pricey, and at 68.9mm long, could be a tight fit.

This is what I went with.
 

lollem

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What should i get for my headlamp? It uses 2x18650 batteries, bought the headlamp with 2x18650 ultrafire batteries and crappy wall charger that plugs into the flashlight to charge the batteries overnight. The batteries don't last, they work 2-3hrs really bright then you would suffer with very dim led cuz of the low battery. Was going to get this "Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh Unprotected Button Top" for 5.85$ ea, or "LG ICR18650HE4 - Button Top - Hi Drain 18650 - 2500mAh. for 5.90$ ea. Trying to get best bang for my buck for my batteries while getting good quality batteries, and not knockoffs from amazon or ebay.
 

Lexel

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Its quite simple use the cells the light is build for
there are lights that take only 2.8-4.2V using em with 2 cells will most likely damage driver or LED

other lights have a linear driver for voltages up to 4V and at higher voltages use a buck converter, more expensive lights
 

lollem

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Not sure how much volts the led driver can handle, as I bought my headlamp off ebay. Headlamp+2xultrafire batteries+cheap wall charger for like 10-14$. It gives out pretty good light, but if you're saying some headlamps can only take certain voltage, or they die, makes me think if I should waste 20$ on pair of good batteries. One of my similar headlamps led went half bright and won't shine full bright anymore lol, maybe something happen with the driver. Anyway I could check? Last time i took my battery holder, the driver is below the battery compartment bringing leads to negative and positive sides. Thanks. My looks like this "http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~iQAAOSwB09YJkWB/s-l500.jpg" They also state that they use "T6 LED Cree XM-L" for their headlamps.

Edit: Took apart one of my flashlights, this is the board on the inside "http://imgur.com/a/xwyQM"
 
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coffeecup66

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My favorite is the Orbtronic 3500mAh dual-protection 10A high-drain cell. Panasonic/Sanyo cell inside with Seiko designed protection circuit, but a bit pricey, and at 68.9mm long, could be a tight fit.

It's good to see someone read the OP's question...

Cheers Collins, and glad you found a good battery. :tinfoil:
 
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totobel

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So in this topic I learned that the best 18650 battery today is the unprotected NCR18650GA : https://www.orbtronic.com/18650-battery-3500mah-li-ion-high-drain-panasonic-sanyo

I also learned that one of the preferred protected NCR18650GA is the Orbtronic : https://www.orbtronic.com/18650-protected-battery-3500mah-lithium-ion

As you see, the price difference is around +85% "just" for the protective circuit. Is that usual ?
Any better options out there ? Thanks
(Especially that I want to buy from Europe, Orbtronic isn't maybe the best option regarding shipping costs)

EDIT : any idea if the nitecore 3500mah NL1835HP is worth it ?
 
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