DEFT-High Output Got Lux?

[saabluster]

Thanks, I figured it was a hand made part. It does seem that it could hold the lens a bit more firmly, but not really a huge deal. I am fairly handy and can tinker with it. My main concern was the distance that this lens has to be from the LED, You stale that it is "finely tuned", and I didn't want to screw things up by trying to modify it. But, as it appears to be basically resting on the LED, that takes some o the guess work out of it.

I must admit, i am kind of splitting hairs here, the DEFT is an amazing light, but judging mine against some of the beam shots (probly not a good idea) the hot spot on mine does not look as crisp or well defined as some. Given the varying camera settings used to achieve beam shots, likely this is a non issue. I have yet to go to a place that is realy dark and stretch its legs so to speak.

I am wery glad i got in on the last buy! and :thumbsup: for doing another run of them.

Yeah they do not all come out with a perfectly defined square. Certainly with a lens that is perfect in every way it will be able to project that perfect square. I make my own lenses so as you might imagine even despite my best efforts they are far from perfect. When I test them I aim for numbers not a square so you can be assured that I did my best to maximize the performance of that lens whether or not it makes a square beam or not. I actually like a light that has a more round beam as long as I can still have high throw numbers. It gives you a slightly larger area in view and makes for easier viewing.

 

[h22]

DEFT quit last night!

I have only used it off and on since i got it, still using the first set of batteries (energizer lithium, 6.6v on pack).

Switched it on and it came up for a split second and then went out.

Being an electrical guy by trade i did some diagnostic work. I pulled the glue off the inner lens and checked the voltage to the LED. It is the same as the battery pack, ~6.6v with the switch on.
While testing it, if I held the volt meter probe just right the LED would come on...! kind of blinding.

So, figuring i had a bad soldier joint, and the iron being right there on my work bench, i re flowed the joints on the LED. This appears to have fixed it (whew!).
Now the only lingering thought i have is weather or not any damage has been done to the driver board, if it has one. I have heard that some boards can be hurt if no load is connected.

Joe

 

[saabluster]

DEFT quit last night!

I have only used it off and on since i got it, still using the first set of batteries (energizer lithium, 6.6v on pack).

Switched it on and it came up for a split second and then went out.

Being an electrical guy by trade i did some diagnostic work. I pulled the glue off the inner lens and checked the voltage to the LED. It is the same as the battery pack, ~6.6v with the switch on.
While testing it, if I held the volt meter probe just right the LED would come on...! kind of blinding.

So, figuring i had a bad soldier joint, and the iron being right there on my work bench, i re flowed the joints on the LED. This appears to have fixed it (whew!).
Now the only lingering thought i have is weather or not any damage has been done to the driver board, if it has one. I have heard that some boards can be hurt if no load is connected.

Joe

Well I'm sure glad you were able to fix the broken solder joint. Sorry about that. This is not the first one I've had do that. It has only been on the HO versions. The Enthusiast's had epoxy around the joints to protect it and the FTPs had the star to solder to which gave much more surface area to work with. In retrospect a dab at least of some epoxy on those HO LED joints would have been a good idea. There shouldn't be any damage to the driver though. It is both short circuit protected and since it is a buck driver is protected from the over voltage blowouts that can happen with some of the boost drivers.

 

[h22]

Well I'm sure glad you were able to fix the broken solder joint. Sorry about that. This is not the first one I've had do that. It has only been on the HO versions. The Enthusiast's had epoxy around the joints to protect it and the FTPs had the star to solder to which gave much more surface area to work with. In retrospect a dab at least of some epoxy on those HO LED joints would have been a good idea. There shouldn't be any damage to the driver though. It is both short circuit protected and since it is a buck driver is protected from the over voltage blowouts that can happen with some of the boost drivers.

I will do the epoxy, good idea. Having the emitter right on the copper heatsink makes etting a good joint a bit difficult. but it looks like it is ok.

 

[saabluster]

Having the emitter right on the copper heatsink makes etting a good joint a bit difficult.

Yes it is really difficult because as soon as it touches the pad it sucks all the heat out of the wire/solder. You actually have to work it much hotter than if you were just tinning a wire. I had a cheaper soldering iron that worked better for this but it broke. It worked better because the tip was one of those solid copper ones and it would have a "store" of heat from which to draw from which compensated for the heat sucking copper base the LED sits on. It broke and when I replaced it I decided to get something "better". I like how the new one works for normal soldering but it has made soldering those mounted LEDs a pain.

 

[h22]

Yes it is really difficult because as soon as it touches the pad it sucks all the heat out of the wire/solder. You actually have to work it much hotter than if you were just tinning a wire. I had a cheaper soldering iron that worked better for this but it broke. It worked better because the tip was one of those solid copper ones and it would have a "store" of heat from which to draw from which compensated for the heat sucking copper base the LED sits on. It broke and when I replaced it I decided to get something "better". I like how the new one works for normal soldering but it has made soldering those mounted LEDs a pain.

Yea, a good iron is great to have. I design/build a lot of circuit boards, and getting a good ground plain is a double edged sword. It is great when i can build a super robust ground plain(s), but getting good connections requires using two heat settings on the iron because the ground pins (or pads) dissipate the heat so well.
I tried to send a PM, hoping you got it but there appears to be a glitch in the mail, if you did not get it could you PM me? thanks.
Joe

 

[saabluster]

Yea, a good iron is great to have. I design/build a lot of circuit boards, and getting a good ground plain is a double edged sword. It is great when i can build a super robust ground plain(s), but getting good connections requires using two heat settings on the iron because the ground pins (or pads) dissipate the heat so well.
I tried to send a PM, hoping you got it but there appears to be a glitch in the mail, if you did not get it could you PM me? thanks.
Joe

Got your PM and responded. Thanks.

 

[lorka85]

any news for a new deft ?

 

[saabluster]

any news for a new deft ?

Working on a smaller DEFT as we speak. It will not be as powerful as the original DEFT but far more portable. It can actually be EDCed

 

[Got Lumens?]

Saabluster,
Is there another DEFT run coming anytime? I like the EDC, but would love to have any variation of the full sized DEFT.
Thanks
GL

 

[saabluster]

Saabluster,
Is there another DEFT run coming anytime? I like the EDC, but would love to have any variation of the full sized DEFT.
Thanks
GL

That is a hard question to answer at the moment. Yes it is in the plans and I have several irons in the fire in that regard but nothing that is absolute at this juncture. Keep in mind that I am just as much of a flashaholic as you so I want very much to bring the light out again but the second coming will have to be more financially viable. I essentially, or should I say my credit card, subsidized the production of the original DEFT. That would have to change or my wife will have my head.