I started wondering (a lot!) about tints and became frustrated trying to interpret the words that others used to describe what they saw with their eyes. And it's quite expensive to buy something based on some one else's notions about tint.
(To be sure, I'm not criticizing anyone else -- describing tint is difficult and most manufactures don't include enough details about their emitters -- so we all wind up guessing.)
So, I got some DIY flashlight bodies so I could try out specific emitters with known tints. My Dobermann XP-L HI is a very close match to the XP-L HI V2 1A emitters in my DIY lights. "1A" is the tint specification and is indeed fairly cool. I also have some "2A", "3A" etc emitters for comparison which progress into the neutral range. It's been very satisfying. With a quality DIY flashlight body and some very basic soldering skills you can experiment with emitters at a very reasonable cost -- and the results are very good. These Armytek HI lights are the only name brand lights I pursue these days. I'm a sucker for the matte finish and the twist to max output is a great feature.
Since I'm wildly off topic at this point, I'll come back and say that a Predator HI is on a delivery truck right now
[EDIT] I forgot the point of bringing up tints in the first place (good grief!)
The "1A" tint (that matches the Doberman Pro XP-L HI) has a temperature in the
6500-7000K range. It is much cooler than the 5500K figure published by Armytek for all of their cool white flashlights. Note I like the 6500-7000K tint a lot. I'm not complaining about the tint. But that 5500K figure will confuse anyone trying to compare their AT XP-L HI models to published specs of other flashlights. It is that kind of confusion is why I started building flashlights. Finally, point made One last thing. Armytek support supplied me with a "1C" tint figure for some of their XP-L (non HI) lights. "1C" is in the 6000K-6500K range -- also cooler than the 5500K published spec for those flashlights.