EagleTac Clicky Ti

[TweakMDS]

Mine's actually the more "budget" model of a flash/lightmeter, with all sorts of awesome abilities like balancing ambient and flash exposures, and auto-triggering (waiting for a flash to pop).
I bought it to use with manual flashes in studio settings (next photoshoot in 2 weeks) because a DSLR can't meter manual flash exposure...

Eitherway, it's quite overkill for a simple lux meter because a lux meter effectively only needs to be a photosensitive cell with some circuitry around it. Circuits that don't depend on temperature and moisture, calibration options, fancy UI's, branding etc raise these devices in price from the few dollars in hardware to hundreds. Especially for only a comparison between multiple lights with one picked as a baseline, it doesn't need to be all that fancy. I wouldn't be surprised if there's simple USB options to be found for ~10 or so to get the same effect.

That said, a light meter can be an awesome toy to use for this purpose as well because the light intensity range it can meter surpasses a dslr and it's more precise. But for that same $200, I think you can get better hardware to properly measure flashlight output.
One thing I'm still interested in buying is a color meter (like this one: http://www.sekonic.com/Products/C-500/Overview.aspx), but I need a project to justify it (edit: a very big project, and even then rent it...).

 

[Fireclaw18]

My D25c 2013 edition Ti with XML just arrived.

The bezel is removable on this one. Looks like a standard 16 mm star should fit. Time to buy some XM-L2s and try my hand at reflow soldering. Anyone know what melting point solder paste to use?

 

[shq_luvlights]

I couldnt stand it anymore. Im buying one. I think I'm gonna go the D25A. Gosh I love Eagletac flashlight. They're so beautiful!

 

[rookiedaddy]

just to share 2 pics of the low and med mode PWM-like effect...

low mode

med mode

image snap-shot from video-capture. no visible PWM on moon-mode (not shown)

 

[rjking]

Purchased 22nd of December 2012.

This waiting game is making me crazy. :shakehead

GOOD NEWS! Finally received it after 17 days. the BAD NEWS, I was slapped with an £18.35 VAT and £8.32 Royal Mail International service. WTF?

The 2013 D25A Ti has a similar output with my 2012 D25A Clicky except for the low or moonlight mode where the 2013 is much much lower. They both have the same XML-U2 emitter cool white. I also have the pre-flash on the D25A Ti 2013.

The 2013 D25C Ti CW is nice with floody beam and a smooth merging of hotspot and spill. Wished I had an XP-G2 to compare but for now, this will do me.


By the way guys, is eneloop good for winter?

 

[TweakMDS]

GOOD NEWS! Finally received it after 17 days. the BAD NEWS, I was slapped with an £18.35 VAT and £8.32 Royal Mail International service. WTF?

The 2013 D25A Ti has a similar output with my 2012 D25A Clicky except for the low or moonlight mode where the 2013 is much much lower. They both have the same XML-U2 emitter cool white. I also have the pre-flash on the D25A Ti 2013.

The 2013 D25C Ti CW is nice with floody beam and a smooth merging of hotspot and spill. Wished I had an XP-G2 to compare but for now, this will do me.


By the way guys, is eneloop good for winter?

It depends, if you leave it in the car at -5 degrees celcius, you'll be able to use it (I was this morning), but if your idea of winter is -60 degrees celcius, you may want to consider getting some energizer lithium primaries. That's what I usually have in the lights that I'm not edc-ing anyway. Never failed me.

 

[rjking]

Thanks. Should be fine then. :thumbsup:

 

[rewdee]

Hi, can anyone recommend a replacement boot for the D25a clicky? I dont like the feel of the stock boot. Not sure how to describe it; lack of fullness?

Also, how difficult is it to change the boot?

Thanks.

 

[Dubois]

Getting the tail off is, apparently, hard work - having read about it here I haven't even tried unscrewing it.

 

[reppans]

Hmmm, you might have a tough time with that. It is one of the narrowest diameter clickies I've heard of (ie, hard to find small boot), and the tailcap, least on the 2012, is glued/Loctite pretty solid. Also saw a post or two, mentioned the clicky guts spill when you open the tailcap, and so appears not to have a traditional retaining ring, as most removal tail caps do.

 

[rewdee]

Thanks. I guess i have to live with the stock boot, rather than mess things up.

 

[shelm]

Hmmm, you might have a tough time with that. It is one of the narrowest diameter clickies I've heard of (ie, hard to find small boot), and the tailcap, least on the 2012, is glued/Loctite pretty solid. Also saw a post or two, mentioned the clicky guts spill when you open the tailcap, and so appears not to have a traditional retaining ring, as most removal tail caps do.

it'd be misinfo to think that the tailcaps (2011, 2012, 2013) are glued/loctite in any way. they arent. i can confirm this and Eagletac too.
what does happen when the o-ring is superlubed by the user is that the o-ring leaves its groove when the tailcap is screwed back on because of the slighty crooked position of the screwing parts because of the pocket clip. with the o-ring out of its place, the friction between the parts is increased and it becomes impossible to fully screw the tailcap back on. likewise it becomes difficult to unscrew the tailcap.

the o-ring is so thin and its dedicated groove so small that during fast factory assembly and even without superlube the o-ring gets partly moved out of its place and stuck between the screwing titanium parts. the problem is caused by the tension and crooking through the pocket clip. if the user were able to remove the pocket clip, then all screwing/unscrewing/o-ring problems would be gone. HighlanderNorth was the first to make the observation and he documented it at several instances incl his own thread.

the tail assembly is the rubber boot, a thin metal ring for stabilization but not spacing purposes, a high quality clicky, and the titanium tailcap itself with the attached pocket clip. anyone who frequently unscrews the tailcap for whatever reason is advised to get a free custom sized allen key from Eagletac dealer (illuminationgear). basically, reppans, for you it is mandatory to remove the pocket clip before you twist the tailcap because there is tension in the threads caused by the pocket clip. with superlube oil in that tiny gap you could remove the tailcap without tearing the o-ring apart .. but it's better to release the tension in the threads completely: the pocket clip needs to detached first!

 

[reppans]

Shelm..... how's your memory there, buddy?

Please re-read posts #351 through #355 on this thread.



Oh yeah, and about this question...

Are you saying that, taking Eagletac as reference,
D25A = 100% brightness
SC52 = 166.6% brightness

?

:duh2:

Please re-read posts #942 - #944 of the SC52 thread you started.


Here ya go, this is for you....... CLICKY.

;-)

 

[shelm]

Mwuahaha :thumbsup:

Okok, looks like we were talking about the same stuff months ago and i suggested the same solution: a working allen key.
Well, once the pocket clip is detached, with strong hands and rubber gloves and drops of supralube oil in the gap (btw, my unit doesnt have a gap at the tail) it will be possible to unscrew and disassemble the tail.

So how's your hand power? :nana:

Anyway, never mind .. if it's okay for you to leave the o-ring squished between the titanium parts.

 

[reppans]

LOL.... touché !

(but, former rock climber.... so not too bad)

 

[djozz]

Received a neutral 2013 D25A ti clicky with XPG-led a few days ago from Illumination Gear and had some discussion about it with customer service. The website, shopping basket and order confirmation mentioned the led to be XPG2 (neutral), the light I received had an old generation neutral XPG (green backing) in it. Although the customer service was very friendly it took a few exchanged mails to explain that it was really not the labeling on the package I was worried about but that the actual led in the light was the wrong one. They had not noticed that before I told them that, and all other neutrals in the 2013 Ti edition also appeared to contain 'old' XPG's (the cool whites were indeed XPG2), while they really ordered (different from other sellers they told me) XPG2 neutrals from EagleTac. Although I would not have ordered the light if I knew that it had an 'old generation' led I settled for a discount because it just is a nice light to have. The discount was not exactly great: 7.50 dollars. At least they promised to correct the information in the shopping basket on the website (but not on the webpage itself).

Oh, by the way: the clicky screws open easily in my light, no glue whatsoever.

 

[TweakMDS]

I didn't know there was a 2013 model with the normal XP-G.

Are you sure you have the 2013 model and not the 2012 model? Differences are relatively easy to spot between them, the 2013 has brass inside it, better threading, slight gap, and slightly different knurling pattern.

 

[rewdee]

Thanks. I managed to unscrew the tail-cap after removing the clip. It unscrew without much force needed. Now looking for a suitable replacement boot

it'd be misinfo to think that the tailcaps (2011, 2012, 2013) are glued/loctite in any way. they arent. i can confirm this and Eagletac too.
what does happen when the o-ring is superlubed by the user is that the o-ring leaves its groove when the tailcap is screwed back on because of the slighty crooked position of the screwing parts because of the pocket clip. with the o-ring out of its place, the friction between the parts is increased and it becomes impossible to fully screw the tailcap back on. likewise it becomes difficult to unscrew the tailcap.

the o-ring is so thin and its dedicated groove so small that during fast factory assembly and even without superlube the o-ring gets partly moved out of its place and stuck between the screwing titanium parts. the problem is caused by the tension and crooking through the pocket clip. if the user were able to remove the pocket clip, then all screwing/unscrewing/o-ring problems would be gone. HighlanderNorth was the first to make the observation and he documented it at several instances incl his own thread.

the tail assembly is the rubber boot, a thin metal ring for stabilization but not spacing purposes, a high quality clicky, and the titanium tailcap itself with the attached pocket clip. anyone who frequently unscrews the tailcap for whatever reason is advised to get a free custom sized allen key from Eagletac dealer (illuminationgear). basically, reppans, for you it is mandatory to remove the pocket clip before you twist the tailcap because there is tension in the threads caused by the pocket clip. with superlube oil in that tiny gap you could remove the tailcap without tearing the o-ring apart .. but it's better to release the tension in the threads completely: the pocket clip needs to detached first!

 

[djozz]

I didn't know there was a 2013 model with the normal XP-G.

Are you sure you have the 2013 model and not the 2012 model? Differences are relatively easy to spot between them, the 2013 has brass inside it, better threading, slight gap, and slightly different knurling pattern.

It is the 2013 model alright. They sell a xpg version at Ill.Gear but also elsewhere. Nice is that the modes do work now with 14500's. Also noticed that all lower modes show pwm but moonlight seems current controlled; no trace of pwm with also the light colour a bit more to the yellow side.

 

[shelm]

while they really ordered (different from other sellers they told me) XPG2 neutrals from EagleTac

example: you can order as many XM-L2 Ti's as you wish from Eagletac factory but the factory will send only what really exists in their production line: XP-G2 R5 coolwhite, and XP-G (r4?) neutralwhite and the 1st gen XM-L's. the last time i checked with ET they didnt list any "Ti XP-G2 NW" so if a dealer says that he ordered XM-L2 Ti's then he is either telling stories or he submitted a wrong order or he is simply §$%&!

Clearly, the dealer sent you wrong merchandise. This is poor.

and wont change the info on the webpage itself?? .. vely good bait and switch tactics! lovecpf