Lithium466
Enlightened
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
I'll try with RCR soon
(it's a D25C Ti 2014)
I'll try with RCR soon
(it's a D25C Ti 2014)
Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
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recDNA
Flashaholic
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Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
Anybody know if it is safe to use a cr123 primary in the 2 amp version of the d25c?
Anybody know if it is safe to use a cr123 primary in the 2 amp version of the d25c?
Lithium466
Enlightened
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
What, where? I want one. There is a 2A version of D25C? I thought they were reserved to 18650 versions?
2A is on the high side for CR123A, it is ok for short bursts, but it won't last long and it will heat quickly. Use high quality batteries.
What, where? I want one. There is a 2A version of D25C? I thought they were reserved to 18650 versions?
2A is on the high side for CR123A, it is ok for short bursts, but it won't last long and it will heat quickly. Use high quality batteries.
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
You mention in your review that "According to Eagletac, mode memory is not available on the D25A clicky model". I'm considering this light, but I do not like last memory mode lights. Have you found out since, or does anyone know if the D25A has the option to turn memory mode off?
You mention in your review that "According to Eagletac, mode memory is not available on the D25A clicky model". I'm considering this light, but I do not like last memory mode lights. Have you found out since, or does anyone know if the D25A has the option to turn memory mode off?
Lithium466
Enlightened
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
There's no memory on D25A.
There's no memory on D25A.
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
Thank you. I've been watching videos on this light and reading reviews, but most do not cover the D25A, but cover the rest of the D series lights and give no information about last mode memory on the D25A cause they don't know since they didn't have that light. The EagleTac site is no help here. Some of the D Series lights do have last mode memory as shown in videos, but have a feature that lets you turn it off, but the EagleTac site never mentions last mode memory at all on those lights, but just can't find info on that about the D25A. Sounds like the D25A may be in my collection very soon.
Thank you. I've been watching videos on this light and reading reviews, but most do not cover the D25A, but cover the rest of the D series lights and give no information about last mode memory on the D25A cause they don't know since they didn't have that light. The EagleTac site is no help here. Some of the D Series lights do have last mode memory as shown in videos, but have a feature that lets you turn it off, but the EagleTac site never mentions last mode memory at all on those lights, but just can't find info on that about the D25A. Sounds like the D25A may be in my collection very soon.
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
I can add a little information about the D25A clicky (i.e. the single-AA version with click-switch control in the end-cap). It seems to have some important design differences from the two-AA version (e.g. a non-reversible barrel, no memory of last-used setting).
As a light-weight hiker, I am always looking to save a gram. So I really like:
(1) Low weight (22 grams after removal of the clip);
(2) Knurled barrel (which grips firmly in my home-made head strap);
(3) Floody beam from the XM-L2 U2 LED (good for headtorch use, not for long spotlight throw);
(4) High efficiency (specified with unstated battery type as 150+ hours in moon mode - which at 1 lumen is just useful, or I guess nearly 50 hours in non-moon low mode - which at 4 lumens is a good compromise for many tasks). Also current regulation and compatibility with diverse AA-size battery types;
(5) One-hand operation via a rear mechanical switch (easy to find, even on my head, and no parasitic drain when clicked off);
(6) It tail-stands just fine (fit a latex-glove little finger to the front for candle-mode);
(7) The interface starts in low mode then ramps up and cycles through various strobe - flash - SOS modes on subsequent half-clicks (with a front-twist for turbo / strobe cycle). For others wondering, 'beacon' is a very slow flash.
For me, torches with side or twisty switches defy quick operation on my head. Those which start bright have destroyed my night vision before I can work out their minimum useful setting - so they get used brighter with a big hit on battery life (meaning a weight penalty for more carried batteries). If I ever need to frighten the bejeezus out of something with a 1AA torch flash (??), I reckon I can remember to screw it into turbo mode first! For me, a torch does not need a memory (provided it starts at low intensity), and I don't want parasitic battery drain between hikes.
It was easy to remove the clip to save a few grams, using a hex-tip screwdriver. A 1.5 mm tip was fine if used carefully (most people are not going to order, then wait for, a custom 1.55 mm tip).
Possible concerns for other users are:
(1) No battery lock-out function. You can not simply unscrew the tail or front cap slightly to ensure that the torch can not accidentally be clicked on, thereby flattening the battery while packed. You can not improvise lock-out with teflon tape or the like - the circuit path is not arranged that way. But the tail switch is recessed enough that some care when packing will minimise the risk. Or in desperation you could reverse the battery or fit something like a small chair-leg tip over the switch - I have not bothered.
(2) The tail cap has a flimsy thread and o-ring, below which are a fall-out washer and switch mechanism before you can access the battery. I found this almost impossible to replace without damage once a battery was installed, even without the pocket clip. The solution is never to remove the tail cap. Instead, remove the front section (which has a better design of electronics, thread and o-ring to avoid damage with careful use). This is in defiance of the manual text on battery replacement - but it matches one of the illustrations. Otherwise the torch is very robust for the weight. By the way, that rear (steel) washer is important to centre the switch and avoid closing the circuit without passing through the switch. So if you want to save a few milligrams by swapping it for something lighter you need carefully to match the dimensions.
(3) No Morse-signal mode (but torches that include this usually bury it so deep in the interface I could never find it in a hurry, and I have forgotten most of the Morse code - so I am satisfied with the pre-programed SOS).
(4) Very 'cool white' colour rendition overall, with some yellow rings when used close-up at higher settings, but you can choose a slightly less efficient LED for a 'warmer' colour or a different beam profile, as mentioned on the Eagletac website.
I can add a little information about the D25A clicky (i.e. the single-AA version with click-switch control in the end-cap). It seems to have some important design differences from the two-AA version (e.g. a non-reversible barrel, no memory of last-used setting).
As a light-weight hiker, I am always looking to save a gram. So I really like:
(1) Low weight (22 grams after removal of the clip);
(2) Knurled barrel (which grips firmly in my home-made head strap);
(3) Floody beam from the XM-L2 U2 LED (good for headtorch use, not for long spotlight throw);
(4) High efficiency (specified with unstated battery type as 150+ hours in moon mode - which at 1 lumen is just useful, or I guess nearly 50 hours in non-moon low mode - which at 4 lumens is a good compromise for many tasks). Also current regulation and compatibility with diverse AA-size battery types;
(5) One-hand operation via a rear mechanical switch (easy to find, even on my head, and no parasitic drain when clicked off);
(6) It tail-stands just fine (fit a latex-glove little finger to the front for candle-mode);
(7) The interface starts in low mode then ramps up and cycles through various strobe - flash - SOS modes on subsequent half-clicks (with a front-twist for turbo / strobe cycle). For others wondering, 'beacon' is a very slow flash.
For me, torches with side or twisty switches defy quick operation on my head. Those which start bright have destroyed my night vision before I can work out their minimum useful setting - so they get used brighter with a big hit on battery life (meaning a weight penalty for more carried batteries). If I ever need to frighten the bejeezus out of something with a 1AA torch flash (??), I reckon I can remember to screw it into turbo mode first! For me, a torch does not need a memory (provided it starts at low intensity), and I don't want parasitic battery drain between hikes.
It was easy to remove the clip to save a few grams, using a hex-tip screwdriver. A 1.5 mm tip was fine if used carefully (most people are not going to order, then wait for, a custom 1.55 mm tip).
Possible concerns for other users are:
(1) No battery lock-out function. You can not simply unscrew the tail or front cap slightly to ensure that the torch can not accidentally be clicked on, thereby flattening the battery while packed. You can not improvise lock-out with teflon tape or the like - the circuit path is not arranged that way. But the tail switch is recessed enough that some care when packing will minimise the risk. Or in desperation you could reverse the battery or fit something like a small chair-leg tip over the switch - I have not bothered.
(2) The tail cap has a flimsy thread and o-ring, below which are a fall-out washer and switch mechanism before you can access the battery. I found this almost impossible to replace without damage once a battery was installed, even without the pocket clip. The solution is never to remove the tail cap. Instead, remove the front section (which has a better design of electronics, thread and o-ring to avoid damage with careful use). This is in defiance of the manual text on battery replacement - but it matches one of the illustrations. Otherwise the torch is very robust for the weight. By the way, that rear (steel) washer is important to centre the switch and avoid closing the circuit without passing through the switch. So if you want to save a few milligrams by swapping it for something lighter you need carefully to match the dimensions.
(3) No Morse-signal mode (but torches that include this usually bury it so deep in the interface I could never find it in a hurry, and I have forgotten most of the Morse code - so I am satisfied with the pre-programed SOS).
(4) Very 'cool white' colour rendition overall, with some yellow rings when used close-up at higher settings, but you can choose a slightly less efficient LED for a 'warmer' colour or a different beam profile, as mentioned on the Eagletac website.
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
Perhaps I should clarify that the D25A clicky does remember whether you have selected moon mode (where the first few half-clicks after turning the torch on deliver about 1 - 11 - 121 lumens) or non-moon mode (for about 4 - 20 - 121 lumens). It remembers this moon /non-moon setting (toggled by three quick consecutive cycles through turbo mode) without ongoing power consumption - e.g. without any battery in the torch.
Perhaps I should clarify that the D25A clicky does remember whether you have selected moon mode (where the first few half-clicks after turning the torch on deliver about 1 - 11 - 121 lumens) or non-moon mode (for about 4 - 20 - 121 lumens). It remembers this moon /non-moon setting (toggled by three quick consecutive cycles through turbo mode) without ongoing power consumption - e.g. without any battery in the torch.
Colinsdad
Newly Enlightened
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- Jul 13, 2010
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Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
Just to add my two cents to this discussion, I just purchased a brandy-new D25C off EBay for 45$. It was listed as the "upgraded 2013 model" with the U2 emitter.
I was secretly hoping it was the DD model, as I have a surplus of IMRs around. I threw one in, and, lo and behold, it was regulated....it has all the modes as listed. Even though this is "only" 450 lumens, it's more than enough for my tactical EDC needs. I typically carry a 4sevens mini CR2 with an RCR CR2 and warm emitter. Great light to be sure, but, when I'm carrying my CCW, the LAST thing I need is to be fumbling around with a twisty switch. Great little light....kudos to Eric (aka Selfbuilt) for a great review....I needed to replace my Nitecore SRT3 as my tactical EDC, and, based on this review, I tracked down this light. And , at 45$ shipped, I'm very satisfied!!
Just to add my two cents to this discussion, I just purchased a brandy-new D25C off EBay for 45$. It was listed as the "upgraded 2013 model" with the U2 emitter.
I was secretly hoping it was the DD model, as I have a surplus of IMRs around. I threw one in, and, lo and behold, it was regulated....it has all the modes as listed. Even though this is "only" 450 lumens, it's more than enough for my tactical EDC needs. I typically carry a 4sevens mini CR2 with an RCR CR2 and warm emitter. Great light to be sure, but, when I'm carrying my CCW, the LAST thing I need is to be fumbling around with a twisty switch. Great little light....kudos to Eric (aka Selfbuilt) for a great review....I needed to replace my Nitecore SRT3 as my tactical EDC, and, based on this review, I tracked down this light. And , at 45$ shipped, I'm very satisfied!!
GordoJones88
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
I still sometimes EDC my original D25C 16340 Direct Drive model.
It's not always very useful.
You get either 10 lumens or 750 lumens.
Stupid bright for such a tiny little light.
I still sometimes EDC my original D25C 16340 Direct Drive model.
It's not always very useful.
You get either 10 lumens or 750 lumens.
Stupid bright for such a tiny little light.
Colinsdad
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2010
- Messages
- 66
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
I was out chasing a rather large raccoon out of the yard a few minutes ago, and this light with an IMR was more than adequate, even with a "paltry" 450 lumens....Definitely a worthwhile purchase! In fact, this is the first light I've purchased in just about a year...looks like the "lumen bug" has hit again.
I was out chasing a rather large raccoon out of the yard a few minutes ago, and this light with an IMR was more than adequate, even with a "paltry" 450 lumens....Definitely a worthwhile purchase! In fact, this is the first light I've purchased in just about a year...looks like the "lumen bug" has hit again.
mcnair55
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
You can find plenty of info on the D25A and the fact it does not have last mode memory simply by surfing the net,it took me no more than a couple of minutes and i watched a couple of very informative videos.
You can find plenty of info on the D25A and the fact it does not have last mode memory simply by surfing the net,it took me no more than a couple of minutes and i watched a couple of very informative videos.
blackFFM
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Messages
- 179
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
IMHO I can't tell that there is a big difference in output between my new and old D25. Direct driven turbo mode makes no sense for longer use. Light gets super hot after 1 minute.
IMHO I can't tell that there is a big difference in output between my new and old D25. Direct driven turbo mode makes no sense for longer use. Light gets super hot after 1 minute.
Colinsdad
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2010
- Messages
- 66
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
BlackFFM- I concur completely! In fact, I was rather relived to hear they had updated the board for full Li Ion support....nothing worse than having a related light go DD on you if you're not expecting it. Perfect case in point:
years ago the big pocket rocket was the Lumapower VX Ultra with the SST-50 emitter. Ricky at LP had to add a note with the lights that, in single RCR 16340 configuration, the operator MUST USE an IMR cell because of the ridiculous current draw. After about 5 minutes, you could literally cook things on the head/lens. I believe the run time on high was tested at 15 minutes....all that for an astonishing 450 lumens. Lol!
P.s. I still have that light....still one of my favorites....in 18650 mode, however.
BlackFFM- I concur completely! In fact, I was rather relived to hear they had updated the board for full Li Ion support....nothing worse than having a related light go DD on you if you're not expecting it. Perfect case in point:
years ago the big pocket rocket was the Lumapower VX Ultra with the SST-50 emitter. Ricky at LP had to add a note with the lights that, in single RCR 16340 configuration, the operator MUST USE an IMR cell because of the ridiculous current draw. After about 5 minutes, you could literally cook things on the head/lens. I believe the run time on high was tested at 15 minutes....all that for an astonishing 450 lumens. Lol!
P.s. I still have that light....still one of my favorites....in 18650 mode, however.
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
This serie are intresting indeed and I am close to get one of these beauties. But first...
If this has been mentioned in earlier posts, my apoligizes.... 
My questions only regards the D25A 2014 (Nichia) version . I try to be clear about that because sometimes the model is not mentioned which leaves me a little bit confused as the models does not share all functionalities :huh:. All the lumens are ANSI figures taken from the ET site.
Question no 1. Can you reset the cycle by a long press in the head loose mode? An example; You turn it on (loose head), allways starting in moon or low mode depending on programing, make two light presses which leaves you in medium mode (7 or 14 lumens depending on programing). Now you have two choices to get back to moon or low without higher the output. Either you click it to turn it off or you make a long light press (0,5-0,7 second) to turn back to moon or low which also resets the memory. Correct? Then you can start over and ramp up again?
Question no 2. You can pre select either turbo (88 lumens) (head tight) or 0,5ish or 3-ish lumens (head loose) depending on programing. Correct?
Question no 3. Let's say you are in loose head mode on the medium setting (7 or 14 lumens depending on programing) and want to look at something a little bit futher down the road, you only need to turn the head tight which get you to the turbo mode (88 lumens), when turning back (head loose) you will get to the lowest setting (0,5 or 3 lumens depening on programing) and NOT to the medium setting again. To go back to medium mode you need to light press one time to get back to medium. Correct?
If my assumptions are correct this light has quite a descent UI, don´t you think :thumbsup:. The down side is that it´s seems quite hard to operate it with one hand by turning the head loose/tight and press the rear clicky...
Ooops one more...Question no 4. Can you really rely on the ET site regarding the output? Do you get 0,5 / 7 / 55 on moon loose head and 3 / 14 / 55 on regular loose head. Do you really get 88 lumens in turbo mode the first 200 seconds with tight head? Can you tell the difference by the eye between high and turbo?
I will only use Eneloops.
Thanks in advance my friends
Martin
This serie are intresting indeed and I am close to get one of these beauties. But first...
If this has been mentioned in earlier posts, my apoligizes...
. My questions only regards the D25A 2014 (Nichia) version . I try to be clear about that because sometimes the model is not mentioned which leaves me a little bit confused as the models does not share all functionalities :huh:. All the lumens are ANSI figures taken from the ET site.Question no 1. Can you reset the cycle by a long press in the head loose mode? An example; You turn it on (loose head), allways starting in moon or low mode depending on programing, make two light presses which leaves you in medium mode (7 or 14 lumens depending on programing). Now you have two choices to get back to moon or low without higher the output. Either you click it to turn it off or you make a long light press (0,5-0,7 second) to turn back to moon or low which also resets the memory. Correct? Then you can start over and ramp up again?
Question no 2. You can pre select either turbo (88 lumens) (head tight) or 0,5ish or 3-ish lumens (head loose) depending on programing. Correct?
Question no 3. Let's say you are in loose head mode on the medium setting (7 or 14 lumens depending on programing) and want to look at something a little bit futher down the road, you only need to turn the head tight which get you to the turbo mode (88 lumens), when turning back (head loose) you will get to the lowest setting (0,5 or 3 lumens depening on programing) and NOT to the medium setting again. To go back to medium mode you need to light press one time to get back to medium. Correct?
If my assumptions are correct this light has quite a descent UI, don´t you think :thumbsup:. The down side is that it´s seems quite hard to operate it with one hand by turning the head loose/tight and press the rear clicky...
Ooops one more...Question no 4. Can you really rely on the ET site regarding the output? Do you get 0,5 / 7 / 55 on moon loose head and 3 / 14 / 55 on regular loose head. Do you really get 88 lumens in turbo mode the first 200 seconds with tight head? Can you tell the difference by the eye between high and turbo?
I will only use Eneloops.
Thanks in advance my friends
Martin
Colinsdad
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2010
- Messages
- 66
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
Martin,
Sorry I can't help with your query as I don't own the nichia model. But I do agree this light has a great UI!
Martin,
Sorry I can't help with your query as I don't own the nichia model. But I do agree this light has a great UI!
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
I own the D25A N219 Ti and several '12 XMLs and all your points are correct except this:
One press takes you medium
I use a light box, and calibrate to ti-force's lumen scale (a reviewer that claims ANSI accuracy - and I calibrate to 240 lms at stepdown for a QP2A-X) and find my D25As spot on (well certainly within my lightbox's margin of error). This scale matches most of my AA/sub-lumen light collection but you should note that this scale is significantly different that Selfbuilt's, as seen above. The runtime specs are also very honest.
The one important note is that moonlight mode is not well regulated on the D25As. It will put out a 0.5 lms on a 1.5v+ cell (new Alk or L91), but moonlight falls off sharply on NiMhs, down to ~0.15 on my N219 on a middling <1.3v Eneloop, and may exhibit PWM-like "warble" depending upon example. Also, all lower modes shift up ~5x on high voltage cells like CRAAs and 14500s, so you loose moonlight.
Your loose/tight bezel swapping between medium and max is also correct, the light will default back to low, and if done quickly enough, will also reprogram the light. Reason this is important to me is that I happen to frequently use a loose/light UI as a single-handed momentary max from ON, which has enough finesse to signal a fast morse code, yet always returns to the previously used lower mode upon release. You don't need to use two hands - if you are close to the loose/tight bezel line, sideways pressure on the head, combine with a little thread play, will momentarily activate max. This happens to be my favorite UI "feature" of any light, but the D25A can't do it due to: threads too tight, default back to lowest mode, and reprogram after 3 quick flashes.
I own the D25A N219 Ti and several '12 XMLs and all your points are correct except this:
One press takes you medium
I use a light box, and calibrate to ti-force's lumen scale (a reviewer that claims ANSI accuracy - and I calibrate to 240 lms at stepdown for a QP2A-X) and find my D25As spot on (well certainly within my lightbox's margin of error). This scale matches most of my AA/sub-lumen light collection but you should note that this scale is significantly different that Selfbuilt's, as seen above. The runtime specs are also very honest.
The one important note is that moonlight mode is not well regulated on the D25As. It will put out a 0.5 lms on a 1.5v+ cell (new Alk or L91), but moonlight falls off sharply on NiMhs, down to ~0.15 on my N219 on a middling <1.3v Eneloop, and may exhibit PWM-like "warble" depending upon example. Also, all lower modes shift up ~5x on high voltage cells like CRAAs and 14500s, so you loose moonlight.
Your loose/tight bezel swapping between medium and max is also correct, the light will default back to low, and if done quickly enough, will also reprogram the light. Reason this is important to me is that I happen to frequently use a loose/light UI as a single-handed momentary max from ON, which has enough finesse to signal a fast morse code, yet always returns to the previously used lower mode upon release. You don't need to use two hands - if you are close to the loose/tight bezel line, sideways pressure on the head, combine with a little thread play, will momentarily activate max. This happens to be my favorite UI "feature" of any light, but the D25A can't do it due to: threads too tight, default back to lowest mode, and reprogram after 3 quick flashes.
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
Thank you for the answer Reppans. It seems that I had it right regarding the UI. However, the potential PWM on moon is not so 2014 from a brand like this. It´s sad if they have not solved the issue yet on the last batch... This behavior can perhaps be called the PWM lottery instead of the tint...oo:
It still seems to be one of the best AA lights out there that I have found regarding tint, beam, size, UI, clip. I really like that you can go back relatively quick to the lowest mode by a 0,5-ish s half press on the clicky. The competition are between the L3 L10/L10C, but this light has to be turned off for a second or two to reset or you need to go through the hole cycle to get back to a lower setting, this is not 2014 either.... Always start at firefly is not so practical, but I still want the option of firefly... Hmmm. I think the most practical start of a EDC, based on daily use, is to start on a low medium mode, like 5-15 lumens, but have the option to start at moon depending on situation. From off simply hold the on/off like the SWM D40A. I am dreaming, sorry. The D25A almost cut it :thumbsup:
Thank you for the answer Reppans. It seems that I had it right regarding the UI. However, the potential PWM on moon is not so 2014 from a brand like this. It´s sad if they have not solved the issue yet on the last batch... This behavior can perhaps be called the PWM lottery instead of the tint...
oo:It still seems to be one of the best AA lights out there that I have found regarding tint, beam, size, UI, clip. I really like that you can go back relatively quick to the lowest mode by a 0,5-ish s half press on the clicky. The competition are between the L3 L10/L10C, but this light has to be turned off for a second or two to reset or you need to go through the hole cycle to get back to a lower setting, this is not 2014 either.... Always start at firefly is not so practical, but I still want the option of firefly... Hmmm. I think the most practical start of a EDC, based on daily use, is to start on a low medium mode, like 5-15 lumens, but have the option to start at moon depending on situation. From off simply hold the on/off like the SWM D40A. I am dreaming, sorry. The D25A almost cut it :thumbsup:
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
It's still a great light and one I recommend - I run L91s (and I dislike primary cells in general) in mine for perfect moonlight regulation - I like "bright" moonlights, they are my most often used modes (as opposed to firefly and dimmer, only good for midnight bathroom runs) and this beam is one of my favorites, tint/profile. Most folks probably wouldn't even see the PWM effect, but I unfortunately taught myself what to look for, and now, cannot stop seeing it. Yup, love the short reset UI on this light - long press back to low, I think my Quark would perfect if it had the same.
If you like the D40A moonlight from off access have a look at the Olight S15 and new TN Neutron in Selfbuilt's review, I believe they are the same. TN's firefly is too dim for me, but at least it sounds like it isn't in the way.
It's still a great light and one I recommend - I run L91s (and I dislike primary cells in general) in mine for perfect moonlight regulation - I like "bright" moonlights, they are my most often used modes (as opposed to firefly and dimmer, only good for midnight bathroom runs) and this beam is one of my favorites, tint/profile. Most folks probably wouldn't even see the PWM effect, but I unfortunately taught myself what to look for, and now, cannot stop seeing it. Yup, love the short reset UI on this light - long press back to low, I think my Quark would perfect if it had the same.
If you like the D40A moonlight from off access have a look at the Olight S15 and new TN Neutron in Selfbuilt's review, I believe they are the same. TN's firefly is too dim for me, but at least it sounds like it isn't in the way.
markr6
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2012
- Messages
- 9,258
Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)
I was using my D25LC2 last night in the back yard and noticed it reached the treeline - the furthest point away without hitting neighboring homes. I measured it on Google maps just now and it's 115yards/105meters away. Pretty impressed since this was the Nichia 219 @ 420lm. Sure wish I had the XP-G2 for comparison which would probably blow that out of the water!
I was using my D25LC2 last night in the back yard and noticed it reached the treeline - the furthest point away without hitting neighboring homes. I measured it on Google maps just now and it's 115yards/105meters away. Pretty impressed since this was the Nichia 219 @ 420lm. Sure wish I had the XP-G2 for comparison which would probably blow that out of the water!
