Elzetta Bones flashlight - Elzetta first 18650 light

desert.snake

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so would 1 x 18650 be better or 2 x 18350 for bones?.


I was more interested exist the ability to use any batteries that can fit there - I have a few 18650s, a few spare 123s for cold weather (-30 and below), and a bunch of 16340s, in the event that my 18650s run out but the light is still needed so that I can use the 16340.


When I had 2 Bravo. One i sold, other I bored it and used 18650 and also 16340 and 18350. 18650 gives a very good working time, 16340 gives a higher brightness like Charlie, but the operating time will be less than from 2 * 123 to 20-50% depending on the batteries (from 16340 550 mAh to 18350 with with good capacity).


If you use it not for constant switching on, but periodically in short intervals and you need high brightness, then 2* 18350 will be good for this. If you need a long working time, then 18650. If the working time is very long, then you need an expander for 2 (or 3) * 18650. But it will already look like a Maglite, I mean its properties of a baton))
 

neutralwhite

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thanks Desert Snake.
are there PIN issues / tailcap as I am sure it may of been you who mentioned them some long while ago.
I wonder if Elzetta got that fixed up.
 

desert.snake

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thanks, something like that.
I had a m60 bravo in 2015, it was only thrown some several feet, and flickered off. it was a high strobe tailcap.
something to do with the pin maybe.

Ah, I get it, I unfortunately missed that incident with your flashlight. The move pin has the same telescopic design as the move pin in the high / low Malkoff ring. No wonder SF make 3 petals in their two-stage switches, although I also have complaints about their design. If Elzetta had supplied 2 or 3 duplicate telescopic pins versus 1, it would be very cool and reliable, but also more expensive for our wallet, respectively.

But maybe it's not the movable pin, I dropped my bravo quite a few times on the switch when it was in weak mode (high/low tailcap), there were no problems. I disassembled this button out of curiosity, there is a resistor. I do not know what is in the high/strobe switch, perhaps this element was damaged by the shock.

15 volts? Really??

Absolutely :) If you don't believe, here is a screen shot. If you suspect that I drew it in a photo editor, you can call Elzetta on the phone))



Most likely, the electronic filling is the same as in the AVS heads. It is possible that this is done in case someone shoves 3 * 16340 into Charlie's body to save him from electric death + some additional supply.
 

bykfixer

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It's kinda like automobile companies using the same alternator for various models. It stands to reason the parts and pieces may vary slightly from say an ambulance to a compact car of that brand based on the potential load of said alternator. Like Elzetta did with hi/lo or hi/strobe tailcaps.
Or like Ford did with the rear end housing in the 90's where Rangers and Explorers shared the same gears whether it was a 4 cylinder model, or 6 cylinder model. Elzetta using the same stuff in the AVS is a cost cutting manufacturing thing. And it's nice to know a Bravo AVS head can placed on a Charlie with no :poof: issues.
 

delus

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Crushed 18650 Flat Tops? Switch to Button-Tops?

I got my first Bravo in September 2013, which was before the low-profile bezel was even available. Best purchase I ever made. I tell people, "Get an Elzetta, you will not be sorry ...until you lose it!
I've been using two Bravos that were bored for 18650, since 2014. few people use bored Bravos, so I figured the Bones thread was the right place for this comment.

I've always had one small problem on the top of the cell. The Bravo springs are nice and powerful. This is a good thing, no rattle at all. However, the 18650 flat-tops eventually become pushed-in by the force of the springs. I struggled to get a good picture of the 3-D effect of exactly what this looks like. (this does not happen on the bottom.)
From Clipboard.jpg

I know, I know... damaged battery, get rid of it! Maybe I'm risking a lot for a little, but...
This isn't all that bad because the spring-contact-area is held up by three stand-offs that separate it from the rest of the battery and a small amount of air is under the spring-contact-area allowing some deformation without danger. I imagine another electrical separator is under that, though I've never tested that. I also imagine that even if this secondary isolation became punctured and the spring-contact-area touched the inside of the battery, it's still positive touching positive, and the negative pole is still far away on the outer edge of the can, and there is no danger of short circuit unless the stand-offs become completely broken and the battery-contact-area starts flapping around.
Am I correct about the positive-touching-positive last line of defense?
Conclusion: It will be easy to prove me wrong, but I think I'm OK with this. In over seven years I've never had a problem.


Eventually, the contact area becomes so pushed-in that my charger's positive terminal will not reach it. Here's my solution for that. It's a half-inch neoprene plumbing washer with a small strip of copper rolled up and jammed into the center. I make the strip slightly taller than the washer. so it reaches inside the pushed-in contact of the battery. Seems to work just fine.
From Clipboard 2.jpg


Now my question. Has anybody tried button-tops in a Bones?
I've always thought button-top 18650's might provide additional strength in this area and be the solution to the problem, but have never tried it. I was worried about the extra 1.5 mm length that the protection circuit requires, causing the springs to push even harder against the circuit, causing the circuit itself to short-circuit. Should I try it?
 

thermal guy

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Ya 18650's are generally longer then 2X123's and 2X123 are real tight in a bravo as is. That's probably why your crushing them. I think it would be worse with button tops.

oh sorry your taking about the bones. In my new one button tops is all I run.
 

delus

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So you are running button tops with no crushing? What's the exact length?
I'm seeing button tops that are anywhere between 66mm and 69mm.
Elzetttas shut off at 3.0 volts, so I don't need protection. Is there such a thing as an un-protected button-top?
 

thermal guy

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N
So you are running button tops with no crushing? What's the exact length?
I'm seeing button tops that are anywhere between 66mm and 69mm.
Elzetttas shut off at 3.0 volts, so I don't need protection. Is there such a thing as an un-protected button-top?
ot sure if the length. I can check when I get home. But there keeppower 18650's
 
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