Emisar D1

[ven]

TORCH, the flat top positive end + looks like

This wants to go towards the head.

The negative end is just a flat/smooth part and looks like

That is the part of the cell you should see before screwing the tail cap on

 

[TORCHrider]

Thanks a bunch guys. Now I will never have to ask that again.

As long as I am here I thought I would ask 1 other question. Why can't this light use protected batteries? Only reason I ask is that I have a bunch of them for other lights I own. Would they work at all in the D1 or would they damage either the light or the battery? Thanks again!

 

[ven]

Length for one, the PCB adds a few MM in length and can be a too tight fit. 2nd, the PCB could(more than likely would) trip as the D1 asks around 6a, other than the later higher drain protected batteries(10-15a).

The D1 firmware has low voltage protection built in, so no need for protected cells here, also a handy voltage check(3 clicks).

Enjoy! If not sure on anything just ask, always better to be safe than sorry.

 

[ven]

What battery/s do you plan on using? Its not a crazy ask this light, so 10a 3500mah cells make a good choice. Also the sony vtc6 and samsung 30Q are good companions for the D1.

 

[low]

Thanks a bunch guys. Now I will never have to ask that again.

As long as I am here I thought I would ask 1 other question. Why can't this light use protected batteries? Only reason I ask is that I have a bunch of them for other lights I own. Would they work at all in the D1 or would they damage either the light or the battery? Thanks again!

Protected batteries are longer (for the protection) and none of my protected batteries fit in the D1.

 

[TORCHrider]

Thanks again guys. The battery I plan on using is the Sony VTC6 flat top's. They should be here by Friday. I am excited about getting this light up and running.

 

[Thetasigma]

Those should work well, any quality cells capable of at least 10A continuous work well too. The XP-L HI will draw about 6A or so at max with the D1.

 

[ven]

Yes +1 to that, vtc6 make an excellent choice of D1 fuel

 

[Laesabeam]

I have a similar question about the D1, It just arrived at my home but i havent got the samsung batteries i ordered yet, If my protected Eagletac 18650 3.7 Volt Li-ion 3400 mAh fits, Can i use this meanwhile or can it damage the battery or the light?

 

[eh4]

If it fits, you can use it.
If you try to make it fit, you might mash the button and the springs, or possibly even crack the driver board.
Just to cheat though for the time being, until your batteries arrive, you could make a c shaped metal ring to go inside the cap, to lengthen the contact between the battery tube and the tail cap...
You'll lose the function of the O ring seal, and might not have a good contact for high amp draw, but at least you could mess around and use the light in the mean time.
Tin foil would be easiest, but if you had a tube cutter, tin snips, maybe Vernier or dial calipers or even a ruler, and some copper pipe you could make a nice one.

 

[eh4]

Battery tube internal diameter is just under 19mm, external diameter is just under 22mm (minus the threads, just the contact surface), so an "o" shaped or a "c" shaped ring that was a few mm tall would give you electrical contact while still leaving plenty of thread bearing surface for the tail cap (there's about 9mm of tail cap thread)
The tubing needs to have wall thickness 1.5mm or less.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

I have a similar question about the D1, It just arrived at my home but i havent got the samsung batteries i ordered yet, If my protected Eagletac 18650 3.7 Volt Li-ion 3400 mAh fits, Can i use this meanwhile or can it damage the battery or the light?

Tried it with a D1S. Feels like the cap is tight but the threads are anodized therefore no contact because the raw end of the body tube is not making contact with the inner plate of the tailcap. Soshine protected does not work either.

 

[eh4]

Tried it with a D1S. Feels like the cap is tight but the threads are anodized therefore no contact because the raw end of the body tube is not making contact with the inner plate of the tailcap. Soshine protected does not work either.

If only there were some way to temporarily make the battery tube slightly longer.

 

[Keitho]

If only there were some way to temporarily make the battery tube slightly longer.

You could do a washer made of a conductive metal to bridge the gap and accommodate the longer cell. Bonus points for fabricating the washer to add an anti-roll shape and a lanyard hole.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

You could do a washer made of a conductive metal to bridge the gap and accommodate the longer cell. Bonus points for fabricating the washer to add an anti-roll shape and a lanyard hole.

Contact must be made between raw end of body and inner plate of tailcap. Any added adapter would be inside tailcap. How about just using unprotected flat tops for, what, $8?

 

[Fireclaw18]

You could do a washer made of a conductive metal to bridge the gap and accommodate the longer cell. Bonus points for fabricating the washer to add an anti-roll shape and a lanyard hole.

Doesn't have to be a washer.
(1) Get some sheet aluminum or copper. 0.032" sheet or 0.016" sheet works well. You can buy 8" long sheets on Ebay.
(2) Using thick metal-cutting scissors, cut a thin strip of the sheet. Maybe 2mm wide and 2 inches long.
(3) Bend the strip into a "C" shaped ring.
(4) insert the strip into the tailcap. The strip should be wide enough the threads hold it in place to prevent it falling out. The strip will keep the tailcap from screwing down all the way while still maintaining electrical connection.
(5) If the size isn't quite right, cut a new strip in a slightly different width until you get it right..

This mod can be used to easily increase the size of the battery tube, and only takes about 10 minutes to do.