WOW!
EMISAR D4 Version 2!!
- Thread starter Nichia!
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WOW!
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Anyone had theirs shipped from INTL yet? I've got mine ordered and i'm just waiting for it to turn over to "shipped".
ChrisGarrett
Flashlight Enthusiast
Eric242
Flashlight Enthusiast
Shipping already started, but be patient young Padawan 
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- May 4, 2014
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Shipping already started, but be patient young Padawan
You know what they say, those who wait for something good always wait too long.
- Joined
- May 4, 2014
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Mine is now sent, could be an interesting test to see how long it takes to Sweden.
idleprocess
Flashaholic
I set the secondaries on my D4S to low in lockout mode and simply don't worry about the drain since the runtime at that level is supposedly years or far longer than I will go between cell swaps.
Naxos
Newly Enlightened
Got my shipment notification today!
buds224
Enlightened
Reading through this thread, I lasted a good 1 hour before placing my order. I just fell off the "stopped buying flashlights" wagon hard just now. Thankfully, not too expensive.
I haven't bought a new flashlight in a couple of weeks now. Then, I read this thread and started getting the shakes.
ChrisGarrett
Flashlight Enthusiast
pappajohan
Newly Enlightened
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So I'm strongly considering ordering the D4V2, two questions though.
Been running the Sanyo 18650GA in my Zebralights, will these be sufficient for the D4? Or do I need something else?
Also, best 18350 to pick up to use with the shorter tube?
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Been running the Sanyo 18650GA in my Zebralights, will these be sufficient for the D4? Or do I need something else?
Also, best 18350 to pick up to use with the shorter tube?
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Well, I'm positive I read somewhere that those Sanyo batteries are fine for the D4V2. I use those in my Zebralights as well and wanted to make sure they would work in my new D4V2 (mine shipped last week and will be my first Emisar). Maybe I read it in TK's review thread over on BLF.
No clue about the tube since I don't run 18350's in any lights.
ChrisGarrett
Flashlight Enthusiast
You can run them, but the NCR-GA is only a 10A continuous cell and at least my D4 can pull between 15A-18A on turbo. The D4 v.2 should be about the same.
Sony VTC-5a is rated at 30A continuous, which is what I use. The Samsung 30Q is rated for 15A, which gets you closer. There are others one can use from LG like their 20A HE2.
Chris
ChrisGarrett
Flashlight Enthusiast
People need to be aware that there are a couple of reports (Germany/England) where the light somehow turns on and gets super hot, causing pressure/temps that might soften the solder joints on the star and push out the E-switch from the head body. Two seemingly similar events where the people didn't leave the light on. One guy had his on his dresser in a vinyl holster and it melted the holster.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67661?page=10
Starting at post #307 for the UK guy.
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/...r-und-bestellthread.70715/page-2#post-1001281
Post #49 for the German fellow.
Just be aware and lock the light out, for now, at the tail (or remove the cell) and when you do play with it, pay attention to it.
Also, it's important to re-calibrate the temperature sensor, since it may not be set to a specific level from the factory. Some speculate that the temperature regulation is dwanky, but that doesn't explain it turning itself on.
Bummer, but we should be aware. Mine isn't here yet, but I plan to re-calibrate and just run things in the lower modes, removing the cell, or locking the light out when stored.
I'm sure more news will come out in the next few days.
Chris
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67661?page=10
Starting at post #307 for the UK guy.
https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/...r-und-bestellthread.70715/page-2#post-1001281
Post #49 for the German fellow.
Just be aware and lock the light out, for now, at the tail (or remove the cell) and when you do play with it, pay attention to it.
Also, it's important to re-calibrate the temperature sensor, since it may not be set to a specific level from the factory. Some speculate that the temperature regulation is dwanky, but that doesn't explain it turning itself on.
Bummer, but we should be aware. Mine isn't here yet, but I plan to re-calibrate and just run things in the lower modes, removing the cell, or locking the light out when stored.
I'm sure more news will come out in the next few days.
Chris
Fireclaw18
Flashlight Enthusiast
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From what I've read the switch is the same as in the original D4. This means raised switch button that projects above the level of the light. Accidental turn-on in the pocket should be quite possible.
That said, I'm surprised that the lights got hot enough to suffer damage. It may be that the version of Anduril used in the lights has inadequate temperature control. Or there could be something else going on.
As soon as mine arrive I think I'll try a "burn in" test where I leave them tailstanding on turbo and check to see if they get too hot.
That said, I'm surprised that the lights got hot enough to suffer damage. It may be that the version of Anduril used in the lights has inadequate temperature control. Or there could be something else going on.
As soon as mine arrive I think I'll try a "burn in" test where I leave them tailstanding on turbo and check to see if they get too hot.
I've had two accidental D4 turn ons. One was in my pocket and one was in a small fabric holster on my belt. Neither was noticed until the they were too hot to touch. I still EDC a D4 on my belt however, tail cap lockout is a must for me. Same thing happens when I carry one of my Zebra H600's in a similar holster.
Fireclaw18
Flashlight Enthusiast
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- Messages
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D4v2 uses Anduril instead of Ramping IOS.
Accidental pocket activation usually happens when the button is depressed in the pocket. This can happen momentarily, or happen where the button is held down for an extended period of time. In the first version of the D4, even if you turned off the light in moonlight, it might turn on in your pocket and ramp all the way up to turbo before the temp sensor brought output back down. This wouldn't damage the light, but was often enough to burn a hole in a pocket.
The D4v2 uses Anduril. Anduril lets you manually set the max-ramp to something other than turbo. I suggest setting it to the level just below where it would burn your pocket. You can still get to turbo via double-click from on, but that is highly unlikely to accidentally happen in the pocket, making the light safer to EDC without lockout than the v1.
However, it sounds like default thermal sensor settings in the v2 isn't great. I recommend manually calibrating the v2's thermal sensor as soon as it arrives.
Emisar D4v2 SST-20 3000K arrived after just 9 days.
Very nice clean yellow-white tint with hints of rosiness (when I compare to ZL SC600Fd Mk4 which now looks very cold, almost blueish).
Aux LEDs are cool. Button needs quite a bit stronger press than my D4S - probably a good thing in this light.
It's been sitting on my desk next to me the last couple hours and it has not turned on by itself so far. :devil:
Very nice clean yellow-white tint with hints of rosiness (when I compare to ZL SC600Fd Mk4 which now looks very cold, almost blueish).
Aux LEDs are cool. Button needs quite a bit stronger press than my D4S - probably a good thing in this light.
It's been sitting on my desk next to me the last couple hours and it has not turned on by itself so far. :devil:
