Guys, if you have question please post them in here so we can share our knowledge. Believe me no Q is outragous. What you have asked I've seen at least 2-3 times before
hornady708: IMHO, diamond coating is not worth the value. AlTiN is a much better solution.
However, since this a "service" if we have more than 5 members participating then "there will be diamond on those flashlights"
nfetterly: McGizmo light are pretty easy to disassemble (other than the oring compression technique).
No splash due to so many variation which makes it cost prohibitive.
xcel730: Surefire C2 is considered a small light.
Chrome is tougher than HA but it's very easily chip. The archiles heal of chrome is the adheasion layer (nickel).
IMHO, Surefire HA is one of the best, and would not recommend anything for this light (unless it's a beater).
post tenebras: Yes but why?, it's too thin.
Nake: It depends on the type of etching. If the etch is into bare metal then the coat will go directly over the etch. Harder to see the writing but still there. If the etch is on the coating (eg early Draco) that will be gone during the strip/buffing.
All Tritium must be removed. Heatgun and small flat head screwdriver are BKM.
HoopleHead: Thank you for relaying the message. Non-flashlight is a GO! We had some cool knives, watch, and even eyeglass last time.
Cost is dependent upon the # of pieces and size, pretty much the same as flashlights.
jaybiz32: eg Mag2D is considered large. Stripping and polishing are required (and included in the coating charge). Then the cost is $40.
StrayLight: Pictures ... the pictures are still available on the last two pages of the previous run.
Strip and polish is built into the cost of the coating. You'll just have to pay for the coating cost. As for electrical path cleanup, you can easily do it yourself with lye, sandpaper, and 60* file.
Draco ... A definite NO NO ... too delicate. It's hard enough to get the first coat on there. Just use it as your EDC.
As for the disassembly fee, from what I remember LunaSol 27 is oring lock mechanism, you'll need to replace the bezel oring and everything else is a piece of cake. I don't normally charge for anything that takes less than 10 mins. Otherwise it's $20/hhr for the frustration.
Zeruel: empty body is the prefered way, it sames time and shipping cost. If the light have a bezel, then it's considered part of the body. Payment are previously only accepted when I send you the bill.
LuxLuthor: So far nothing have been able to stand up to the acid bath. So your HA-III can be blinged with 24K.
I remembered we had couple M6 in the past. Have to check the old thread to see who and how. As for the Jetbeam ... hum one of the local guys here have one. I'll take a look at it during the next CPF lunch (this week).
Pic comparison ... later, but primarily 24K is deeper while TiN is similar to 14K color.
Zeruel: Sure but the HAIII might look bad after stripping. The custom rate is if you want me to machine something weird and I have no idea of yet.
stienke: Currently we only have gray and black for Type III (HA). Orange is hard but doable. Blue is not possible with this type of coating. But regardless we need more who need those color to make it a GO.
tx101: From oversea it's cheaper for me to purchase them locally for you. Another option is to purchase them, and ship it to my address. That's how we handle international order to maintain cost and time.
JHanko: If it's bare metal then NP with the polishing. Shipping address is in each member's PM inbox when ready.
tino_ale: Typically there is only machining work done for HA due to the non-conductive nature and the coating thickness.
I wouldn't dare machine over one of Don's masterpiece.