Fenix's new LD12 'neutral white' 2017 edition

[scs]

Every company has a tint lottery because of the emitter manufactures binning tolerances. ZL has no more of a tint lottery then Fenix with their normal models imo and at least they are using the latest emitters and constantly pushing for new innovations unlike Fenix who use inefficient drivers, outdated emitters, and sticks to boring old designs that lack innovation. Plus, ZL offers models with guaranteed tint consistency if you want it and even tells you what the consistency will be for many of their models.

I, too, believe that Olight has started to pull ahead of Fenix with regard to driver efficiency across the board.

 

[Jash]

I own 27 Fenix products. Only one of them has anything close to being described as green tinted, and only on the two lowest modes.

 

[Javora]

IDK...thrunite is known for green NW as well.

Hmmm, I noticed some green tint in the Ti3 I bought. At the time I thought it was the titanium. Now I have to wonder if it is the emitter. Also wonder now if these companies are just having issues with NW emitters.

 

[Swedpat]

Of all my Fenix I have and have had since the first L1D(8-9 years ago something) I have never got a sample with a not acceptable tint. Yes; some of them a bit cooler than I prefer but not horrible. TK30 has a very slight greenish but still very nice in my opinion, actually one of the nicest cool tints I have experienced.
Several of the earlier LEDs actually had a nicer tint than the newer; L1D, TK10 and TK30 all are warmer(I would describe it as between cool and neutral) than the newer more efficient cool tinted models.
The only model which has failed is TA30. After a short while after I have turned it on it just shuts off by itself. I can turn it on directly after again but it shuts off after a short while again every time. I have no explanation to this behaviour, it can't be low cells because this happens even when highest mode is available. This is a pity because I really like TA30 and wish that Fenix could reintroduce a new updated version of this series. The opportunity to choose the brightness level before ju turn the light on is just great, in my opinion.
I am waiting for an LD12 2017 edt and will receive it any day next week so it will be interesting to see how I like it.

Edit: I forgot that I actually have had a Fenix with horrible tint. TK50, the great 2D thrower was nasty greenish. Especially at the lower levels, it was like it had a green filter. I gave it to a friend.

 

[snowlover91]

Most flashlights will be subject to some tint inconsistency depending on the LED used and the tolerances of the batch they buy. I've seen flashlights from Nitecore, Zebralight, Jetbeam, Olight, and Fenix with poor tint along with other major manufacturers. Some more than others it seems but it can and does happen. If you really like Fenix it might be worth a shot to give them a second chance. If not there are plenty of other options out there, Zebralight and Eageltac usually have some good NW options.

 

[jon_slider]

green LED emitter.

Post pictures so we can see what you are talking about.

Why settle for Low CRI Neutral?
What CCT do you consider Neutral?

If you want neutral white, consider a High CRI (90+) Nichia, they can be had in 4000k

Can anybody point me toward a nice single AA flashlight that ACTUALLY PRODUCES a neutral white light, can use a 14500 battery, and has nicely spaced output levels?

ReyLight Pineapple
there is a Titanium version in the works also.
It is 4000k and 90+ CRI.
It has dual battery chemistry, if you are willing to settle for PWM, and no overdischarge protection.

Zebralight SC52
choice of Neutral, "High" (83+) CRI, and floody options, with built in overdischarge and thermal protections. (but no Nichia)

 

[18650]

Yes, but what is the color temperature. Fenix thinks that 5000K is neutral, it isn't.

You're right. Neutral is a little bit higher.

 

[Woods Walker]

Oh my gosh dude, settle down. It's flashlight not a pacemaker. You'll survive this heinous act of terror, I promise.

Not so fast. In a survival situation bad tint could kill. Think of it like this. You are cold, wet and lost. Then you take out your NW light pressing the switch. What happens....squid **** green or space alien angry blue. You expected sunshine in can and got a visual horror show instead. Only thing left to do is give in to exposure. I seen it all too often. Actually that's a lie. What I just wrote is bob cat in a bag crazy. Never mind.

 

[moshow9]

Not so fast.

First thing I thought of when I read that. I'm a sucker for corny movies, spoof or otherwise.


I've had some good tints with some of my Fenix lights that I have owned. The TK20 had a great neutral white tint. The tint on the LD40 was nice, as it is on the BC30. The tint on my previously owned E15 2016 edition leaned a bit green. And durability aside, the tint on the E01.. well... But if you don't like the tint you can always return the light (if the dealer will accept a return due to tint), sell the light, keep the light, or keep the light but have the emitter swapped to one more to your liking. An unwelcome tint does not necessarily mean it cannot be made better.

 

[Woods Walker]

First thing I thought of when I read that. I'm a sucker for corny movies, spoof or otherwise.


I've had some good tints with some of my Fenix lights that I have owned. The TK20 had a great neutral white tint. The tint on the LD40 was nice, as it is on the BC30. The tint on my previously owned E15 2016 edition leaned a bit green. And durability aside, the tint on the E01.. well... But if you don't like the tint you can always return the light (if the dealer will accept a return due to tint), sell the light, keep the light, or keep the light but have the emitter swapped to one more to your liking. An unwelcome tint does not necessarily mean it cannot be made better.

LOL! Dang that was funny. All kidding aside I do understand what the OP is saying. The first thing I do when turning on a new light is evaluate the tint. The first thing I do with a new knife is test the edge. Bummer thing however is if the heat treat was right I can touch up the edge on a new knife often with a strop but the tint is what it is modding aside. In a few cases given all the options I have a really bad tint will sometimes make me decided against packing a light unless there are other overriding considerations (think Fenix E01). But I won't ever pack a knife which can't hold an edge. A poor tinted light will still function just fine as a tool unlike a knife with a poor heat treat. Yes the TK20 still rocks! Wonderful tint on that XR-E Q3 NW.

 

[MichaelW]

You're right. Neutral is a little bit higher.

No, 5000K is cool-white.

 

[dhunley1]

Received the LD12 yesterday and tested it out before I wrapped it up for my nephew. Definitely not a nasty green tint, but I don't know if I would really call it neutral. It's more neutral than my LD11, but doesn't compare to my neutral Malkoffs. My nephew should like it, but I don't think I'll be buying myself one.

 

[gurdygurds]

I've noticed that when I compare other lights to my 2 Malkoff MDC AA......the other lights tend to get gifted,sold, or not purchased in the first place.

Received the LD12 yesterday and tested it out before I wrapped it up for my nephew. Definitely not a nasty green tint, but I don't know if I would really call it neutral. It's more neutral than my LD11, but doesn't compare to my neutral Malkoffs. My nephew should like it, but I don't think I'll be buying myself one.

 

[Tac Gunner]

After using my Fenix HL35 and my Eagletac D25A2 side by side today, I realized the HL35 isn't quite neutral tint either. While it is definitely warmer than the rest of my Fenixs which all have a cold, cool white, it is no where near as warm as the Eagletac. I prefer the warmer tint of the D25A2 but am more than happy with the HL35 tint. If this new LD12 is at least the same as the HL35 than I will be happy.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

The last time I sent one of these fugly green flashlights back to Fenix, they sent me back the EXACT SAME FLASHLIGHT, with the SAME EMITTER.

Probably because they don't consider tint to be a defect if the flashlight is otherwise functioning correctly.

 

[markr6]

LOL! Dang that was funny. All kidding aside I do understand what the OP is saying. The first thing I do when turning on a new light is evaluate the tint.

Me too. Life's too short to talk yourself into or justify a less-than-great tint. If it wasn't a hobby and something I enjoyed, I'd just buy it and use it like "normal" people. But I don't want to be normal; I want to be a flashaholic with good tints! "Tint doesn't matter in real use" is a joke to me. If it's not a great tint, I really don't want to use it because there ARE good options out there...why not find them and use them!?!

I bought plenty of Fenix lights over the years. They were everything from purple, blue, green and yellow. The only good tint I had, and still have, was the PD32UE. But even that took me 5 TRIES!!! The two PD32UEs I still have are pretty close together, both around 5000K and pretty darn white.

 

[NutSAK]

Can anybody point me toward a nice single AA flashlight that ACTUALLY PRODUCES a neutral white light, can use a 14500 battery, and has nicely spaced output levels?

Zebralight SC52w L2

 

[jon_slider]

Zebralight SC52w L2

good suggestion, that is a 4400k 75CRI light according to this
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...kkEMBjAPo_s/edit?hl=en&authkey=CNqP6KIC#gid=0

fwiw, "neutral" is not as specific as Color Temperature
and, "neutral" is not the same as 90+ CRI

and technically neutral tint refers to Tint, not Color Temperature, but almost everyone misuses the term Neutral Tint, to mean ~ 3500k to 4500k Color temperature. Note that the Tint of an LED is actually a reference to where it falls, above or below the ideal BBL

here is a chart that shows tint and color temperature, but it does not show CRI

For example Tint Bin 5S is ~4000k with a Yellow Tint (above the BBL)
while Tint Bin 5A4 is also ~4000k but with a Magenta Tint (below the BBL)

FWIW, the Pineapple has a 90+CRI 4000k N219c (I do not know its Tint Bin)

 

[markr6]

Good, clear explanation there!

 

[Swedpat]

No, 5000K is cool-white.

I think this is a matter of personal perception. I consider 5000K as good neutral white and 4000K as definitely on the upper scale of warm white.