Flashlight for a pilot

Ataleoffiction

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Eagletac TX25C2. Even has extension tubes to allow for multiple battery options
 
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Timothybil

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As far as determining CRI, if the description doesn't specify, I wind up going to the CREE data sheet for the specific emitter (XM-L, XM-L2, XP-E, etc.) and looking there. If they don't give a subgroup like T3 or U2, then I assume worst case, which is usually a poor 70 CRI, which would not be very good for accurate color rendition. Most vendors are participating in the Lumens Race, and opt for the version with the highest output, which almost always the one with the lowest CRI.

The safest way to get a good (90+) CRI light would be to look for one with a Nichia 219B or 219C emitter. They pretty much own the field as far as high CRI emitters go.
 

cefey

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Dear Timothybil,

Thank you for the reply. But this is about where it´s get´s too advanced for me :D I watched some videos on youtube and it seems like Fenix PD35 is more neutral than most lights. However, TN12 NW is even better/warmer.
The only downside of TN12 for me, is spacing between lumens. But I see they have both older and newer models, so I can perhaps find something that would work for me.

Any lights from this list you would recommend more than other? Or perhaps exclude them from the list altogether?
Which of those lights have best CRI? Perhaps you can point out top 3 or top 5 with CRI 90+ and warm light (neutral white).
- J5 Tactical V1-PRO
- NITECORE P12
- Nitecore EC4S
- ThruNite TN12 EDC
- Eagletac TX25C2
- Nitecore EA11
- Zebralight SC600w

After that, I´ll check modes (min/max lumen, spacing between them), batteries, etc and will pick out my favourite :)


Thank you everyone for the help!


UPDATE:
After watching more videos and reading reviews, I decided to remove Fenix PD35, FD 20 and 30 due to cool-white tint.
New one on the list is Zebralight SC600w (they have few different editions).

Zebra, TN12 and P12 is my favs for now. But I struggle to find good info about the other lights.
 
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vadimax

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I guess the best one could be this one:



if we omit its small size and hence some issues with heat dissipation. "HI" (factory dedomed emitter) will give you throw to inspect private parts of your airplane :)

It has shortcuts to all its modes, so you always know what you get when you turn it on.

Here is the beamshot from the German forum:

comp_3p11704928ksfq.jpg


At at the same time I must warn you: you should buy the shortest unprotected 18650 cell for it as people report it to be extremely tight on batteries. For example, Sony 18650 VTC6 claims to be 64.9 mm long.
 
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vadimax

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Well, affected with Lithuanian 140° proof moonshine improved with walnut partitions (I sincerely hope I write it properly) and followed with shots of 1410 (Grunwald battle) Dark Ale I just have ordered the mentioned setup for myself. That stupid situation when you are so convincing that make yourself agitated... :)

Having Zebralight SC5c Mk II (and absolutely loving it) I hope I will not regret my spontaneous move.
 

cefey

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I accidentally read about zebra from one post on this forum. The guy just mentioned it´s got good NW. And I found the video you have linked to.

Seems like very nice light that ticks all my boxes.
Do you have any info how is it compared to TN12 and P12?
 

vadimax

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I accidentally read about zebra from one post on this forum. The guy just mentioned it´s got good NW. And I found the video you have linked to.

Seems like very nice light that ticks all my boxes.
Do you have any info how is it compared to TN12 and P12?

I own a Thrunite TN12 (2016) as well. First I was entirely satisfied with it, but the time has passed and I noticed that if the light does have mode memory, I don't :) Another issue -- modes may be changed in one direction only: having low mode the only way to get moonlight -- to do a full cycle through high and turbo modes...
 

eraursls1984

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What do you mean by that one? :)

Does zebra have mode memory?
Zebralight have three modes with a sub mode in each. It remembers the last used mode for each three modes. Long press gets you into the first mode group (L1, L2) double click is the second mode group (M1, M2) and single click is the third mode group (H1, H2). It will remember the last one in each group. Additionally, you can long press and scroll through all three modes and double in each mode group to jump between the L1 & L2, M1 & M2, or H1 & H2.

This sounds much more complicated than it actually is. It is much easier once you have one in hand. At that point you can learn to reprogram the L2, M2, and H2 if desired, or in some of the newest lights all 6 modes can be reprogrammed.
 
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vadimax

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What do you mean by that one? :)

Does zebra have mode memory?

I mean that sometimes you may forget what exactly mode you have switched a light off and then in total darkness when you need to see something very close you blind yourself with a 1000 lm beam instead of moonlight :)

Zebralight does have memory, but modes are grouped in H1/H2, M1/M2, L1/L2 where H stands for High, M -- for Medium, L -- for Low. And each group has its shortcut: swift click for H, swift double click for M, long click (>0.6 sec) for L. There is one more group -- "disco" (with all those strobes, beacons, etc). It is accessible via swift triple click. Four clicks -- battery check.

Each of these groups remembers which submode was used last. Switching between submodes -- double click.
 

cefey

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Sounds perfect!

So I decided to go for SC600w m3 HI. Went to a store, quickly tested it there and got it. Asked them for a batterie. Got home - batterie too large :D It was the only bat. they had at that store.

Any recommendation for the battery (largest mAh/quality) that will fit in that light? as well as the charger?


Initial impression is good. It´s almost too small for my hand. I liked "feel" of Nitcore P12 better. But they had only cool white. However, the light/colour retention is very nice on zebra. Can´t wait to get battery and test it properly in different modes!
I did compare it with EagleTac T20C2 (I think) in Neutral white. ET seems to be slightly brighter, but a lot more on a blue side vs SC600w.

Regards
 

StorminMatt

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Sounds perfect!

So I decided to go for SC600w m3 HI. Went to a store, quickly tested it there and got it. Asked them for a batterie. Got home - batterie too large :D It was the only bat. they had at that store.

Any recommendation for the battery (largest mAh/quality) that will fit in that light? as well as the charger?


Initial impression is good. It´s almost too small for my hand. I liked "feel" of Nitcore P12 better. But they had only cool white. However, the light/colour retention is very nice on zebra. Can´t wait to get battery and test it properly in different modes!
I did compare it with EagleTac T20C2 (I think) in Neutral white. ET seems to be slightly brighter, but a lot more on a blue side vs SC600w.

Regards

Your new Zebralight requires an unprotected flat top battery. If the store sold you a protected battery (VERY likely) or unprotected button top, it will not fit. The Sanyo NCR18650GA is a popular choice, as is the LG MJ1. You could probably even get away with an unprotected flat top NCR18650B, but this generally isn't a good battery for the price (it is little cheaper than more modern cells). Another less popular choice is the Samsung 35E. Higher capacity, high current cells such as the Sony VTC6, LG HG2, and Samsung 30Q are good choices as well. But regardless of what you get, it must be an UNPROTECTED FLAT TOP.
 
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cefey

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Thank you everyone for the help! I finally got to test my light for what I wanted it for. Works perfectly!
Few "issues" I might mention:
- battery went dead super fast. However, it might be the battery (initially I got one cheap one). Maybe it´s not even an issue
- It would be nicer, if beam could be focused. Although it´s bright, I could use more focus while looking at vertical stabiliser


All in all, I´m super happy with my choice! Compact, light, super bright and very warm color.

Thank you everyone for the help and I hope someone else will benefit from the thread as well!
 

vadimax

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You should know as well that poor quality battery (with insufficient constant max current) will not allow you to enjoy the full power of SC600w HI. With Sony VTC6 I can clearly see things even 50 meters away.

And your words "battery went dead super fast" allow me to assume that you've purchased an excellent light and a trash can battery :)
 

Flyhalf

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sunwayman D20A. Style and layout-wise its a modern Sanyo Cadnica lite, which my Dad and his brethren flew with religiously.
 

GoVegan

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Apologies as I didn't read through this thread only the OP, which is a little old now but no doubt will be referenced by other pilots looking for recommendations.

My recommendation would be for this rechargeable light. Besides, it has a very cool video.

Ledlenser i9R
https://www.ledlenserusa.com/pilot.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1GTGZTdZeE

Or the Surefire Aviator (white light with red option for cockpit use).

Re cockpit use: "
Also consider flashlights with red LEDs or lenses."
source: http://www.aviationsafetymagazine.com/issues/35_10/features/Cockpit-Lighting-Choices_11065-1.html
 

id30209

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I'm not a pilot but flying spanner instead. A lot of time in the cockpit and the only flashlight perfect for this enviroment is old Surefire A2 aviator with Yellow/Green secondaries. Not even green or red can give so much details of switches coloring letters.
 

Nimitz68

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Just for argument sake, I would recommend a new style Surefire Aviator with the yellow/green secondary light. High/low outputs for both the white and yellow/green leds with a maximum output of 250 lumens from the white led. Plenty of light for external visual inspections and long runtimes on the secondary led for cockpit use.
 
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