Foursevens Mini Mark II

[SNES]

It's a great little light. I actually prefer it with the standard foursevens CR123. Since the standard CR123 is a bit shorter than the RCR, it makes the threads nicer to use, and I never use the turbo setting anyway. On the aluminum version the knurling is grippy enough that it doesn't make much difference, but it really helps out the steel version. Either way though, killer light.

 

[Woods Walker]

I couldn't resist. I bought the foursevens IMR rcr123A batteries in ebay and just snared the Stainless Steel Mini MarkII Turbo on Amazon. No shipping charge so only $40. It will actually be my only stainless steel flashlight. I usually don't like the lower heat conductivity and additional weight but the looks alone got me.

I have the regular SS. It's nice though bet the copper and Al are better at heat transfer.

Some mini pics.

Some more mini pics.

 

[recDNA]

I may offer my steel version in trade for aluminum version if I get gritty threads.

 

[SNES]

I seriously doubt they will be gritty. They are definitely smooth, I was referring to the amount of resistance. Hard to explain, but it sounds like you will have both batteries so give it a try.

 

[Woods Walker]

I may offer my steel version in trade for aluminum version if I get gritty threads.

Naw it will be fine. Here is IMHO on the Mini MK2 threads.

1. Rainbow Ti. The worst though the light looks really nice, has a great tint and it does work.
2. Raw Copper. Smooth but a bit tight.
3. Al in both standard and Turbo. The best.
4. Stainless standard. Not bad.... Maybe second best. Nothing really to complain about.

I heard that Autumn Copper was really good. The only one in the standard Minis MK2 I don't have. Then again I can't even use the ones I have now. I kinda just look at um and toss either the copper or knight in my pocket. I gotta put them someplace useful. Maybe in a PSK or something. This shelf thing really doesn't work for me. Like having a hammer and a box of nails but no wood.

 

[SNES]

Tight is probably a better description. i have the raw copper as well and the twist action is improved with the shorter cr123 too.

 

[recDNA]

Is the longer battery crushed? I don't need imr thermal runaway in my future.

 

[Vox Clamatis in Deserto]

Is the longer battery crushed? I don't need imr thermal runaway in my future.

Nope, there is still tail spring travel with the head fully tightened on both the turbo and non-turbo versions. I've got both protected and unprotected IMR's and there is no apparent deformation of the button on top with either version of the Mini Mk II.

The stainless steel turbo seems to tighten somewhat with time, I find myself carrying the aluminum version more. The titanium Mini Mk II looks great but continues to be gritty as previously observed.

 

[Vox Clamatis in Deserto]

I can't recommend the Ti, it looks great to me with the matte bead blasted finish but the threads grab (microscopic galling?) and make mode changes unreliable. The $18 Turbo Mini MkII is smooth as silk however and makes a great stocking stuffer at the closeout price (which still seems to be available this morning).

Jason at Prometheus Lights has produced this video on a lubricant and a tail spring mod to improve the twist action on the Ti Mini MK II:

https://youtu.be/tFbZQfoi49U

 

[Whomprat]

I know this is resurrecting and old thread, but I've been having trouble with my protected batteries in my MKii tripping the protection circuit when there's only been about 100 mah used. This is happening on a fenix battery that isn't high discharge, as well as the 4sevens battery that is rated for 10c. Is it safe to go with a high discharge non-protected cell in this light?