Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

[TheFraz]

I think it's the stock SST-20

All the new SS lights have Samsung 351Ds in them I believe. I do have a sheet of SST20s that just came in that will probably go out with the next batch.

 

[kerneldrop]

All the new SS lights have Samsung 351Ds in them I believe. I do have a sheet of SST20s that just came in that will probably go out with the next batch.

Andy Zhu can reflow your boards with the best bins of Nichia 519a that he buys direct from Nichia.

Your product sells out quickly, so I can see how it would appear silly that a change would be needed, but 519a is the rage and it's only intensifying

 

[ecmp]

All the new SS lights have Samsung 351Ds in them I believe. I do have a sheet of SST20s that just came in that will probably go out with the next batch.

What is the tint for Samsung 351D?

What is the highest CRI emitter mcpcb that worked well with Fraz? E21A? SST-20?

 

[speckacuda]

Anyone else get theirs yet? I ordered one and got an order confirmation on 9/28 but nothing after that.

If you don't get an email with tracking, please email me or send me a message here!! I just set up a lot of software that should automatically shoot all this info out (I think) , but it may be going to spam folders (at best, I'll let y'all know if there's a worst).

And yes, everything should be out by now. So sorry that took so long, and sorry it delayed the next drop a bit.

 

[ecmp]

If you don't get an email with tracking, please email me or send me a message here!! I just set up a lot of software that should automatically shoot all this info out (I think) , but it may be going to spam folders (at best, I'll let y'all know if there's a worst).

And yes, everything should be out by now. So sorry that took so long, and sorry it delayed the next drop a bit.

Hi @speckacuda
No tracking received even in the junk folder. Sending order number via pm.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

So absolutely wonderful we get more Fraz Labs in the wild!

That Samsung emitter on my Lumenite II actually has a nice tint and color rendering. Having that with a 5000K is actually really cool, imminently usable. Go out and try it in the real world before casting judgement. It is quite good in snowy landscapes.

Those who like to do white wall comparisons are bound to find something less than perfect with just about any emitter except for the favorite.

Enormous thanks to speckacuda for taking the time to respond to my email; Love you guys

 

[TimeOnTarget]

All have shipped as of today. You should be good to go.

Mine still says "processing" in my account page. My order number is @13313
I have not received any tracking data.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[bigburly912]

I know people don't like reading back through threads and since there is a bunch of interest in these lights I'll post it again:

I don't recommend you do this but I ran over my little Fraz light with a 17k telehandler. No I'm not joking. It didn't hurt it at all somehow.

 

[ecmp]

Amazing! Thank you for sharing! What model and material?

 

[texsian]

haven't got any updates on my order, sent Fraz and cuda an email and everything.

 

[bla2000]

No updates on my order but I haven't contacted them yet.

 

[bla2000]

I just got my shipping notice. I ordered extra parts so that may have delayed it. Plus it's international shipping.

 

[TimeOnTarget]

I got my tracking number today!

 

[texsian]

finally got an update and tracking.

 

[ecmp]

Has anyone tried below 3V 16mm MCPCBs on their Fraz? On direct drive? What were the battery specs used then?

SST-10 UV 365nm

• Max current: 1A
• Forward voltage: 3V-4V

SST-20 Deep Red 660nm

• Max current: 2A
• Forward voltage @350mA: 1.8V-2.6V

XHP50.3

• Max current: 6A @ 3V
• Forward voltage: 2.8V-3.1V @ 2.8A

SST-20 and LH351D have been mentioned as being the options used in Fraz lights. Including their specs for comparison.


SST-20

• Max current drive: 2A
• Luminous efficacy: 130lm/w @ 350mA
• Forward voltage: 2.5V-3.1V

LH351D

• Wattage: 9.8W 3A max
• Luminous Flux: 515lm @ 1050ma
• Luminous efficacy: 170lm/w
• Forward voltage: 2.7V-3.3V

En route for an early Christmas!


Thank you in advance!

 

[ecmp]

There is enough resistance built into the system to avoid a runaway. You can measure the current through the system with a meter in series. I usually do it at the tailcap. The current will vary between LED and battery types (as well as how far 'on' you have it dialed) but the resistance in the system will limit it well short of the battery max discharge potential.

What kernel said (looked for a pointing 'up' emoji, but couldn't find one....). I've measured all this stuff before, but it can be a real pain and nearly requires some custom parts. Also, the numbers vary as kernel said.

@TheFraz what is the resistance value in ohms of the latest QT-SS without the emitter and QTC pill?

 

[jon_slider]

The short answer for us commoners is no.

Stick to a Keeppower 18650 protected battery and you'll be good to go forever.
Order it from Malkoff or Illumn.com

Avoid high-drain batteries. High drain meaning 30-50amps.

Everything affects resistance....age, temperature, conditions, battery, literally every thing, QTC, distance from the battery to the LED, what all is between the battery and the LED, etc and it constantly changes....

As volts decrease the amps increase.
As heat increases so does amps.
The more amps you have the shorter the life of the LED.
Heat kills LEDs.
Heat = unused energy that is not converted into light

Has anyone tried below 3V 16mm MCPCBs on their Fraz? On direct drive? What were the battery specs used then?

Asking questions when you have no experience can lead to asking questions that dont make sense.

It also seems like you dont understand the answers, so you keep asking questions that dont make sense.

I hope you get your light soon.

Once you have some actual experience, I think you will have a better understanding than you can get by asking questions without any experience to base your questions on.

 

[ecmp]

Asking questions when you have no experience can lead to asking questions that dont make sense.

It also seems like you dont understand the answers, so you keep asking questions that dont make sense.

I hope you get your light soon.

Once you have some actual experience, I think you will have a better understanding than you can get by asking questions without any experience to base your questions on.

I hope by 'actual experience' you do not mean simply swapping out emitters and matching batteries first then ask questions after.

 

[jon_slider]

I hope by 'actual experience' you do not mean simply swapping out emitters and matching batteries first then ask questions after.

I mean, buy the light and use it with the LED it comes with, and the battery that is recommended.

 

[ecmp]

I mean, buy the light and use it with the LED it comes with, and the battery that is recommended.

How would that lead to a better understanding of what LED/emitter and battery options would work?