GatLight V3 - Carbon Fiber / Titanium with Cree XR-E
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Stillphoto
Flashlight Enthusiast
So out of curiousity, besides being flawless, what are these screws going to look like that makes them top notch? Just really clean and a special thread size?
GJW
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'm hoping for this style:
With the necessary tool included, of course.
:naughty:
With the necessary tool included, of course.
:naughty:
sanbenny999
Newly Enlightened
Order ID : FLASH-200703111029-455769
Order Date: 11 MAR 2007 10:29:50
Thank you
Pi chang Shieh
Order Date: 11 MAR 2007 10:29:50
Thank you
Pi chang Shieh
hivoltage
Enlightened
Wonder how many of these have been pre-ordered to date?
hivoltage
Enlightened
It is just disgusting that this thread was clear back on page 3
mobile1
Flashlight Enthusiast
Time for another weekly update:
Drive Current:
Our original intention was to set the drive current to 1000mA. However we've started doing extensive testing in regards to whether that really increases brightness output, since higher drive currents increase the die temperatures which in return reduce brightness. So our goal was to find the ideal setting where brightness is being maximized. Here is the relation between die temperature and drive current over time.
We have also measured brightness output in relation to time, however we first want to verify the results with a couple other LEDs before I'll post them. However what we have observed is that when you run the LED in the V3 at 1000mA that the light is only brighter for the first 20-30seconds... after that the LED die heats up so much that the brightness output after that time is actually less than when you run the light at a lower current...
Our preliminary tests show that the IDEAL SETTING for the V3 to get maximum brightness is 800mA.... Since our goal is maximum brightness, once we have confirmed the results we'll change the maximum drive current to 800mA.
Packaging Boxes:
Our supplier for the boxes sent us another prototype for the boxes the V3 will come in, this time with a darker varnish. Here are some photos in comparison with the lighter colored box.
We will likely go with an even darker varnish.. maybe something dark grey like below - grey would nicely complement the dark carbon fiber - while brown kind of intruduces a new color), however a darker varnish would require switching to a different wood (elm) so that the grain can still be seen.
Circuit Boards
We should get the copper core circuit boards in this coming week. Than we purchased most of the electronic components
Injection Molds
The only headache we currently have is with the 3 injection molded parts. We have placed the purchase order 3 weeks ago and we should have received samples by this week. A follow up revealed that the guy we talked to is on vacation and nothing has been done during these 3 weeks - apparently a company internal communication problem. However the company is looking into it to see what can be done. Kyle thinks they'll try to move it to the front and we hope to get them in time... I'll keep you updated.
Carbon Fiber
Order was placed and they are working on the tubes.
LEDs
We placed the purchase order UX0 bins... normal lead time is 4-6 weeks for those, however our friends at Seoul Semicond. are looking into what they can do. Did I mention that their customer service beats every other company out there. I mean flashlight makers are a small fish for them, but the respect they give you and the way they treat you, how they try to make things happen is simply awesome. We'll defenitely send'em a GatLight over once they're built.
Machined parts
Purchase order was placed, the shop got the full package with the final drawings so they likely are in the process of programming machines and starting with production. They actually have an exhibition coming up and they are eager to have some V3s on display so we'll try to make that happen.
Timing Estimate:
When we provided the original 3month time estimate, that was a pretty conservative guess. Even though we have some delays with the injection molding we still think our original estimate is valid.. depending on the solution we can find with the injection mold place hopefully earlier - if there is nothing else coming up.
Questions:
Number of lights, I think we passed 100 lights about a week ago.. so it's probably quite a bit more now. Also we're building a couple more lights than ordered. However we'll try to make the prepay units a bit different...as a thank you.
Style of the screws - they will be the same (Hex/same thread everything) as the ones on the V2 - except the radius will be a tiny bit smaller and the finish will be alot better. Also the cuts and features will look absolutely perfect. When you look at a stock screw with a magnifying glass they are everything else than perfect. We'll see what Swiss screw machines can do - normally those are used for very high precision parts like watches..
Drive Current:
Our original intention was to set the drive current to 1000mA. However we've started doing extensive testing in regards to whether that really increases brightness output, since higher drive currents increase the die temperatures which in return reduce brightness. So our goal was to find the ideal setting where brightness is being maximized. Here is the relation between die temperature and drive current over time.
We have also measured brightness output in relation to time, however we first want to verify the results with a couple other LEDs before I'll post them. However what we have observed is that when you run the LED in the V3 at 1000mA that the light is only brighter for the first 20-30seconds... after that the LED die heats up so much that the brightness output after that time is actually less than when you run the light at a lower current...
Our preliminary tests show that the IDEAL SETTING for the V3 to get maximum brightness is 800mA.... Since our goal is maximum brightness, once we have confirmed the results we'll change the maximum drive current to 800mA.
Packaging Boxes:
Our supplier for the boxes sent us another prototype for the boxes the V3 will come in, this time with a darker varnish. Here are some photos in comparison with the lighter colored box.
We will likely go with an even darker varnish.. maybe something dark grey like below - grey would nicely complement the dark carbon fiber - while brown kind of intruduces a new color), however a darker varnish would require switching to a different wood (elm) so that the grain can still be seen.
Circuit Boards
We should get the copper core circuit boards in this coming week. Than we purchased most of the electronic components
Injection Molds
The only headache we currently have is with the 3 injection molded parts. We have placed the purchase order 3 weeks ago and we should have received samples by this week. A follow up revealed that the guy we talked to is on vacation and nothing has been done during these 3 weeks - apparently a company internal communication problem. However the company is looking into it to see what can be done. Kyle thinks they'll try to move it to the front and we hope to get them in time... I'll keep you updated.
Carbon Fiber
Order was placed and they are working on the tubes.
LEDs
We placed the purchase order UX0 bins... normal lead time is 4-6 weeks for those, however our friends at Seoul Semicond. are looking into what they can do. Did I mention that their customer service beats every other company out there. I mean flashlight makers are a small fish for them, but the respect they give you and the way they treat you, how they try to make things happen is simply awesome. We'll defenitely send'em a GatLight over once they're built.
Machined parts
Purchase order was placed, the shop got the full package with the final drawings so they likely are in the process of programming machines and starting with production. They actually have an exhibition coming up and they are eager to have some V3s on display so we'll try to make that happen.
Timing Estimate:
When we provided the original 3month time estimate, that was a pretty conservative guess. Even though we have some delays with the injection molding we still think our original estimate is valid.. depending on the solution we can find with the injection mold place hopefully earlier - if there is nothing else coming up.
Questions:
Number of lights, I think we passed 100 lights about a week ago.. so it's probably quite a bit more now. Also we're building a couple more lights than ordered. However we'll try to make the prepay units a bit different...as a thank you.
Style of the screws - they will be the same (Hex/same thread everything) as the ones on the V2 - except the radius will be a tiny bit smaller and the finish will be alot better. Also the cuts and features will look absolutely perfect. When you look at a stock screw with a magnifying glass they are everything else than perfect. We'll see what Swiss screw machines can do - normally those are used for very high precision parts like watches..
cryhavok
Enlightened
Many thanks for the detailed update :thumbsup::thumbsup:
Great update!!! I must admit that I do like the grey varnish over the chocolate brown one!! Just over 100 units ordered huh... so serial No. 99 could be mine!!!
The constant updates & developement photos are one of the main reasons I have lusted after a gatlight - as I followed V2 build to conclusion but was too only after I was too late to order one! Not this time though!!!!
Thanks again
Cheers Harvey
The constant updates & developement photos are one of the main reasons I have lusted after a gatlight - as I followed V2 build to conclusion but was too only after I was too late to order one! Not this time though!!!!
Thanks again
Cheers Harvey
GJW
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: GatLight V3 - ORDER NOW
So has the waterproof issue been decided yet?
mobile1 said:
mobile1 said:
So has the waterproof issue been decided yet?
mobile1
Flashlight Enthusiast
Regarding waterproof.... well the light is designed so that it IS waterproof. Meaning ORings everywhere where there is an interface or where water could come in, and for the carbon fiber interfaces we use silicone to seal that one as well. The reason we call it most likely is simply because we haven't tested it yet extensively.... however its probably safe to assume that its submersible... but first we'd have to soak it in water for a couple of days before removing the "most likely" 
Fringe
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
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- 996
This light gets better and better.
Total work of freakin' art here.
Total work of freakin' art here.
Thermionic
Newly Enlightened
All good stuff! The box really does set off the quality of the light and reminds me of the type of boxes that precision (deck) watches came in. These were made usually of varnished mahogany with brass fittings. So I rather think that starting with a darker wood and applying a thin varnish looks a lot better than using a thick dark varnish, which can look cheap. Not sure about a grey box though.
As regards the variable intensity feature of the light, I have been thinking it might be useful to have something showing the direction of increasing intensity. Actually with your new graph perhaps we could have some markings around the rear flange to indicate approximate output levels or drive currents, or a any rate say a red dot at the 800ma level. So we know roughly what we are going to get before pushing the button.
Just a thought.
As regards the variable intensity feature of the light, I have been thinking it might be useful to have something showing the direction of increasing intensity. Actually with your new graph perhaps we could have some markings around the rear flange to indicate approximate output levels or drive currents, or a any rate say a red dot at the 800ma level. So we know roughly what we are going to get before pushing the button.
Just a thought.
jki
Newly Enlightened
I am not too thrilled with the colored varnish finishes above; to me they are far less elegant than the natural wood finish. I would certainly be willing to pay extra for an optional wood choice like walnut, cherry, black ash, or cocobolo. Something that honors the sophistication and elegance of the V3! A painted wood box is better than nothing, I guess, but just doesn't seem to be worthy of the jewel that lies within.
hivoltage
Enlightened
Ahhh, the box is fine. I plan on carrying mine...it's not going to sit in no Box!!!!!!
PhantomPhoton
Flashlight Enthusiast
hivoltage said:
Amen!
Fie upon the trophy lights and the shelf queens! Real lights are tools put to work by true flashaholics.
freewheelin'
Enlightened
PhantomPhoton said:
Absolutly!!!! Why buy such a practical tool and leave it in a box? Thats like buying new vette and not driving it.
SteveStephens
Newly Enlightened
A clear lucite box would sure show off the light even when in the box. Costs might be a bit high though.
Steve
Steve
jki
Newly Enlightened
Why does having a nice box that honors the quality of the tool within mean that the tool will not be used? Let's be real - we aren't buying $300-400 flashlights simply for their utility, but because they all offer something special; be it superior design, materials, workmanship, limited availability, titanium, unobtanium, etc. The V3 promises all of the above! So wanting to display it when it is sitting on my desk (in between using the s**t out of it) befits something that is more than just a tool. An elegant box serves this purpose, and I think is the reason it is being offered as part of the kit. Maybe those who see no utility or need to have such an accessory should let Lumencraft know so they can provide fewer, but higher quality boxes for those that will use it!
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