Haiku Hive default voltage

[Jfowler]

I appreciate your help big time. Thanks again. I'm gonna mess with these modes and so on and try some basic things. If I have any questions I'll send you a message if you don't mind

Well done! Yes - feel free to PM at any time.

 

[ilikeguns40]

Well done! Yes - feel free to PM at any time.

I finally know exactly how to work it. Your info was so much easier than the hive website. This light has became even more awesome. I currently just have the pencil graphite in there, I plan on soldering it in the future. Has yours ever became un- bridged? I've read if it does than the last saved settings will be saved until bridging again in order to change settings

 

[Jfowler]

I never had one come "unbridged".

I did both solder and pencil on different drivers. If I did it again, I'd just stick with pencil.

 

[E=mAh²]

All I have to say that hasn't already been said is don't let Rushes diagram of the toggle sequence scare you as it did me upon first viewing it (and 2nd time and 3rd and 4th an....).

Kinda funny (and embarrassing) but I could NOT hit the toggle sequence correctly to save my life for oh about the first week or so of owning my first haiku and eventually led to it being more or less shelved. Fast forward about half a year or so and I happen to have problems with BOTH of my HDS lights (...😑) In which they required to be shipped back to Henry (something I have yet to do with one of Don's lights but neither here nor there).

This left a void in my heart as well as my pocket. It was time to dummy up and get into programming as I am really not a fan of memory mode plus I wanted to bump the low down a level as well as optimize voltage for li-ion use as I primarily run rechargeables (like that play on words?

A week of sleepless nights and just as many days worth of 5 o clock shadow build up and 2 big dark bags under my eyes later, and I conquered the toggle sequence!

Ok maybe that was a little exaggerated but I DID find a method that works better for me and although technically it's the same "sequence" for me personally doesn't require the dexterity of the "official" sequence as authored by Rush. It is as follows:

From off:
*Tap long x2 **PAUSE- then five fast taps (on off on off etc) -pause- then tap long x2 -Done! Works great for me and just easier for my brain to remember idk why.

*All taps both "long" and "short" are activations of momentary on not to be confused with "clicks"
**PAUSE = one Mississippi ;-)

 

[ilikeguns40]

Haha thanks. Yeah I finally got it. I was about to give up! So glad I was able to find help here

 

[ilikeguns40]

I never had one come "unbridged".

I did both solder and pencil on different drivers. If I did it again, I'd just stick with pencil.

Gotcha. I'm really enjoying programming the settings for different uses and batteries now

 

[Duster1671]

I went through the HIVE converter manual recently and a general takeaway was this:

The converter works on "off" time, meaning the light will normally switch modes when it is turned off for a short period of time. (This can be changed to "on" time in Setting 14, but "off" is the default).

So to enter a sequence for programming, the action is to let off the switch for a short or long time and then re-engage. The starting or "neutral" position is with your thumb partially depressing the switch. This feels unnatural/counterintuitive, at least to me.

You're counting on the up strokes rather than the down strokes, so to speak. It's a bit like reggae music, which is sort of notorious for being difficult/counterintuitive for musicians to play.

I think this may explain why many folks have trouble learning to program this light, and that things like a 2-5-2 sequence seem to work. That effectively changes the 2-4-2 "up stroke" sequence to a more intuitive 2-5-2 "down stroke" sequence.

Interestingly, a reverse clicky changes this whole scheme around. For an "off" time driver and a reverse clicky, the starting position is with the switch latched on and the thumb not touching. Then the sequence is entered by partially depressing the button (to the turn the light off) for a short or long period of time.

When I look at the problem like this, I start to feel that "off" time is better suited for reverse clickies and "on" time is better suited for forward clickies. I'd be interested in others' takes on this, or arguments in favor of the opposite.

 

[ilikeguns40]

I went through the HIVE converter manual recently and a general takeaway was this:

The converter works on "off" time, meaning the light will normally switch modes when it is turned off for a short period of time. (This can be changed to "on" time in Setting 14, but "off" is the default).

So to enter a sequence for programming, the action is to let off the switch for a short or long time and then re-engage. The starting or "neutral" position is with your thumb partially depressing the switch. This feels unnatural/counterintuitive, at least to me.

You're counting on the up strokes rather than the down strokes, so to speak. It's a bit like reggae music, which is sort of notorious for being difficult/counterintuitive for musicians to play.

I think this may explain why many folks have trouble learning to program this light, and that things like a 2-5-2 sequence seem to work. That effectively changes the 2-4-2 "up stroke" sequence to a more intuitive 2-5-2 "down stroke" sequence.

Interestingly, a reverse clicky changes this whole scheme around. For an "off" time driver and a reverse clicky, the starting position is with the switch latched on and the thumb not touching. Then the sequence is entered by partially depressing the button (to the turn the light off) for a short or long period of time.

When I look at the problem like this, I start to feel that "off" time is better suited for reverse clickies and "on" time is better suited for forward clickies. I'd be interested in others' takes on this, or arguments in favor of the opposite.

I know exactly what your saying and it makes sense. I got it all figured out and I'm really enjoying this hive driver

 

[Jfowler]

Yes Duster, you are exactly right above- 2-4-2 is referring to "off" cycles. You are also right that it is very counter intuitive to count this way, as nearly every other programming sequence I've ever used would be described with a click sequence.

As I was playing with my first HIVE, I realized the only time I'd trigger the program flash was when I got a little overzealous with the rapid clicks in the middle of the sequence. I found it only worked when I tapped the extra 5th time. I actually had to write it out to see that starting from off, a tap sequence of 2-5-2 gives you an off sequence of 2-4-2.

 

[McGizmo]

Hi guys, I admit I am intimidated and I think to slow to master the programming of the HIVE so I have stayed away from it. Rush has provided me with more of the converters and some of them are set from the get go for RCR123 so will throttle down to a lower level sooner than the previous converters that were set for CR123. I was falsely under the impression that all converters were programed for the RCR123 and have always felt that the high current level was a push for a CR123 anyway.

 

[Spyder333]

Hi guys, I admit I am intimidated and I think to slow to master the programming of the HIVE so I have stayed away from it. Rush has provided me with more of the converters and some of them are set from the get go for RCR123 so will throttle down to a lower level sooner than the previous converters that were set for CR123. I was falsely under the impression that all converters were programed for the RCR123 and have always felt that the high current level was a push for a CR123 anyway.

I purchased a "119V HIVE Mule 1x123" in 2016. Is it possible to know if it was programed for CR123 or RCR123 based on the year of purchase?

I have been using both types of batteries in this mule over the years, but I have only been using protected RCR123 lately. Is there any danger using RCR123 if the HIVE was originally programed for CR123?

 

[desert.snake]

I have been using both types of batteries in this mule over the years, but I have only been using protected RCR123 lately. Is there any danger using RCR123 if the HIVE was originally programed for CR123?

There is only a danger that the light will turn off abruptly/suddenly, as it will suck out battery and the protection board in the battery will work, there are no other dangers.
I would reprogram to use RCR123 for not to be left in the darkness without warning

 

[Spyder333]

There is only a danger that the light will turn off abruptly/suddenly, as it will suck out battery and the protection board in the battery will work, there are no other dangers.
I would reprogram to use RCR123 for not to be left in the darkness without warning

Other than not being warned about battery depletion, are there any output level differences?

Also, where can I find the programming manual? I had no luck with some old links on this site.

 

[desert.snake]

Other than not being warned about battery depletion, are there any output level differences?

Also, where can I find the programming manual? I had no luck with some old links on this site.

I didn't notice any difference in brightness level, very stable driver

All links work great, post number 5 :

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/new-driver-from-rush-for-the-1x123-e-series-lights.409289/