Wow!
That is very different from where you started.
If you are looking into a XHP 35 rechargeable thrower, you might also look at the Manker U21
It is a bit larger, but also takes a larger higher capacity 5200 mah 26650 battery.
Help me find my festival torch please
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That is very different from where you started.
If you are looking into a XHP 35 rechargeable thrower, you might also look at the Manker U21
It is a bit larger, but also takes a larger higher capacity 5200 mah 26650 battery.
I do this kind of work too and I rely on the Malkoff MDC-2aa and Houndog for close up and far off work in that order.
I can use the AA's and I need to carry spares too and I also carry both 18650s and CR123s for the Hound Dog.
Pricey but I would rather Buy Once Cry Once as they say.
Neither light has ever let me down,not once.
You can not beat a Malkoff,well ok you can but they just do not care!
I can use the AA's and I need to carry spares too and I also carry both 18650s and CR123s for the Hound Dog.
Pricey but I would rather Buy Once Cry Once as they say.
Neither light has ever let me down,not once.
You can not beat a Malkoff,well ok you can but they just do not care!
The notes on the Klarus site say that the outputs range per battery, check that out before you pull the trigger. I got similar class lights and they would serve for an all purpose light. For up close work, get a diffuser for it to dispurse the focussed beam.
Also, do your homework on the Litium Ion batteries, although most of the bugs have been worked out, they can be dangerous if mistreated.
Malkoffs are tough lights, i only have a MD2, but i hear the MDC are very compact.
I've been looking at the Olight R50 in a 26650 light as Poppy suggests. More battery capacity!
Have fun and be careful!
Chris.funktion
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this might throw up some problems. I take it that unlike my iphone that once I buy the torch and batteries that once they are in the torch I dont have to worry about them for at least a year or too or will have have be fiddling about with batteries and having to source rare expensive specific rechargeable batteries during travels or just the common sense during the time im not using the torch make sure they are not in the torched and stored correctly which isn't going to be an issue.
the Olight looks good but a just that next size up from what i need. I have to think I might be running around with it for 3-4 days and nights so I dont want it too big.
Maybe that should go in the Tool box!!!!
And that Manker torch does look very good! 700 Metre Throw more than double!!! loving the Purple Leds same colour as the sound system!
shame about the 5 step to turbo, what i Did love about The Klarus was the secondary button on the base for strobe also one touch turbo.
what to do....
The Klarus XT11GT uses a standard sized 18650 battery. You can remove it and replace it as required, but you shouldn't need to. You shouldn't need to open up the torch in theory for a couple of years until it comes time to replace the cell and then it's very easy to get a replacement (roughly 15 euros for a good quality high capacity / discharge one). Alternatively, you could always get a second cell now in case you run out your battery and are unable to charge it, that way you'd have a spare you could swap into it.
As someone who used to work in sound, I can tell you you're definitely going to appreciate the one-touch low, one-touch turbo, and one-touch strobe capabilities of the Klarus!
Bear in mind that the Manker although it throws further, you lose a lot of spill and it'll be a very directional light so won't be much good for up close work. Also, with the throw distances that are quoted by manufacturers, the distance shown is the distance at which it is still illuminating an object, but you won't actually be able to see the object and it won't be usable light. To get a better view of what the throw of a torch is, take the quoted throw distance and half it, and that's more like the distance that you'll actually get usable light out to. So you'd be looking at 200ish for the Klarus versus 350ish for the Manker. But the Klarus has a lot of spill and flood and isn't just a thrower, so will be a better all-rounder, whereas the Manker is a thrower so puts almost all of it's output into a thin beam to reach the distance.
As someone who used to work in sound, I can tell you you're definitely going to appreciate the one-touch low, one-touch turbo, and one-touch strobe capabilities of the Klarus!
Bear in mind that the Manker although it throws further, you lose a lot of spill and it'll be a very directional light so won't be much good for up close work. Also, with the throw distances that are quoted by manufacturers, the distance shown is the distance at which it is still illuminating an object, but you won't actually be able to see the object and it won't be usable light. To get a better view of what the throw of a torch is, take the quoted throw distance and half it, and that's more like the distance that you'll actually get usable light out to. So you'd be looking at 200ish for the Klarus versus 350ish for the Manker. But the Klarus has a lot of spill and flood and isn't just a thrower, so will be a better all-rounder, whereas the Manker is a thrower so puts almost all of it's output into a thin beam to reach the distance.
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With the maker u21, from off, if you hold the switch for a second, it starts on high, or turbo IDR.
In the real world, for lights that spec out throwing distance, you should cut that distance at least in half, and maybe in half again.
But for example a 700 meter light will put 4 times as much light on a 350 meter target than a 350 meter light.
In the real world, for lights that spec out throwing distance, you should cut that distance at least in half, and maybe in half again.
But for example a 700 meter light will put 4 times as much light on a 350 meter target than a 350 meter light.
I just checked, it has memory, and with a long press from off, it will start at the level you last used.
Chris.funktion
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Wow thats amazing thank you!!
Thank you for reassuring me about the battery and throw distances, it seems like the Klarus is the best all round exactly how you put it and the fact that you do sound you know exaclty what would help me all round!
I so wish I could buy you and the rest a pint for all your massive help.
wildernessroadie
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I know I'm a little late to the party on this one, but having done similar work in similar circumstances, I figure its worth mentioning for anyone else with the same questions. I get everyone's paranoia about leaky alkys, but the reality is you chew through the batteries so fast that its a swap every couple hours or at least daily, depending on your setup. Yes using imbalanced batteries isn't great, but if you are pulling your "fresh" batteries from the same wireless pack, they should be close as long as your packs are wired as a single power supply and not something odd. (it happens) But there are plenty of times when the guy with the good light ends up directing traffic, or if you are at all in charge, its very helpful to be able to point stuff out at range.
A consideration to the techie that most others won't have is heat management, that light might end up on for very long periods of time, think like the search and rescue guys, less like EDC. So for your big bad throwers, that's a consideration. A light that has good middle mode characteristics is a better all-round than something that is just a spotlight (just get your LX guy to shine one of the movers where you want to look!) Bigger factors are flicker in the mid ranges and what it does for close work, there are a lot of lights that are just tiring to use up close, especially outdoors, and where there are bugs. The other hand is that in festival situations you can kiss your night vision goodbye, between the show lights, long days, haze and other factors, you will need more light than the average. To be honest I got by with my Fenix E11 for a lot of events, and the E21 did okay for the big outdoor ones, but I wasn't doing anything that huge. I'm thinking that a good thrower and a decently floody headlamp is a good combo, half the time the headlamp just rides around your neck anyway as a close up work light. (someone needs to make a better necklace light....)
It all depends on what you are doing, just sound, you probably don't need as much as if you doing stage and rigging, oddly I found I needed more light when I did lighting as I spent much more time with my night vision blasted. Anything doing pyro or similar, I'd be thinking about mining grade lights, limit your danger points, might not be needed, but you just never know. Back stage, backline, or management most of your stuff is close so having a good thrower on your belt is worth while, but you rely on your little light more, the big one is more for when things go a bit wrong.... Depends on your position, and your crew situation really. And if you are the genny babysitter, then a good reading light is all you hope to need!
A consideration to the techie that most others won't have is heat management, that light might end up on for very long periods of time, think like the search and rescue guys, less like EDC. So for your big bad throwers, that's a consideration. A light that has good middle mode characteristics is a better all-round than something that is just a spotlight (just get your LX guy to shine one of the movers where you want to look!) Bigger factors are flicker in the mid ranges and what it does for close work, there are a lot of lights that are just tiring to use up close, especially outdoors, and where there are bugs. The other hand is that in festival situations you can kiss your night vision goodbye, between the show lights, long days, haze and other factors, you will need more light than the average. To be honest I got by with my Fenix E11 for a lot of events, and the E21 did okay for the big outdoor ones, but I wasn't doing anything that huge. I'm thinking that a good thrower and a decently floody headlamp is a good combo, half the time the headlamp just rides around your neck anyway as a close up work light. (someone needs to make a better necklace light....)
It all depends on what you are doing, just sound, you probably don't need as much as if you doing stage and rigging, oddly I found I needed more light when I did lighting as I spent much more time with my night vision blasted. Anything doing pyro or similar, I'd be thinking about mining grade lights, limit your danger points, might not be needed, but you just never know. Back stage, backline, or management most of your stuff is close so having a good thrower on your belt is worth while, but you rely on your little light more, the big one is more for when things go a bit wrong.... Depends on your position, and your crew situation really. And if you are the genny babysitter, then a good reading light is all you hope to need!
A light like Klarus XT11GT with stepdown depending on temperature is great for EDC
the light can put out about 750 lumens after the first minutes of up to 1700 OTF lumens
on a medium level of about 400 lumens a single 18650 can run about 3-4 hours
if you want 1700 lumens continiously you need a bigger torch with better cooling and more batteries to feed the LED a while
the light can put out about 750 lumens after the first minutes of up to 1700 OTF lumens
on a medium level of about 400 lumens a single 18650 can run about 3-4 hours
if you want 1700 lumens continiously you need a bigger torch with better cooling and more batteries to feed the LED a while
Chris.funktion
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NOT late all and insanely accurate!
Yep its a combination of great bean to spot out problems like a flying speaker that needs to be pointed out, to a comfortable low light to work with behind a amplifier rack, and also have fun with your drunk friends showing them the strobe and wow look at that cow half a mile away on the next mountain, hes dancing too and ahhh theres the cabin where i left all my personal sh*t and bed for the foreseeable future!
and maybe someone whose trying to start a drunk fight and you need .23 seconds to blind them untill the train of steroid hungry bouncers jump and maul said a*shole.
