Incandescent: low lumens, long runtime ?

yellow

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unfortunately what one likes must not be good for the other and that impression with disturbing Your sleep is a very special thing.
You might try a "warm white" led but there is no guarantee at all, that it will have the same effect as the incan.

Also I dont have any clue on where/how to get a warm white in a small light ... :thinking:
There are Claipsoii's led rings for the A2, or warm white / high CRI P60 insert from nailbender for an 18650 light
... but all not for small lights

Someone eventually tried modding an E01 with a warm white?


off topic: anyone has actual data for the lifetime of a MM bulb till :poof:?
 

SemiMan

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Cool :)

I'm flashlight illiterate, unfortunately. Would orange or red lip balm caps on an LED get me out of the circadian rhythm disrupting zone?


Without knowing the transmission spectra I couldn't say for sure, but I expect it would. There are lighting films used by theatre and film that are cheap and would be reasonably effective without killing the whole spectrum.
 

SemiMan

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unfortunately what one likes must not be good for the other and that impression with disturbing Your sleep is a very special thing.
You might try a "warm white" led but there is no guarantee at all, that it will have the same effect as the incan.

- What do you base this comment on?

- Circadian rhythm and wavelength of light is now very well understood

- With the exception of not having large amounts of IR and near IR, high CRI leds very closely match the spectrum of incan, or at least typical incan at the typical designed operating point.


It is easy to mod a flashlight with a warm white LED. Almost every LED made can be bought in a warm white version. Some warm white LEDs are better than others. I find Luxeon Rebels, Nichia 219 to have the closest to Incan spectrum. Cree are tolerable, and multimode small Cree XPE/XPG lights are available from many sources.
 

yellow

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- What do you base this comment on?
I "base" my comment on Paolo feeling led output keeps him from getting sleepy, while the MM incan is better suited from him
and thus even a warm white must not improve that feeling - it could, but thats no surefire winner

But You possibly know better ... maybe even than him
:rolleyes:
 

SemiMan

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I "base" my comment on Paolo feeling led output keeps him from getting sleepy, while the MM incan is better suited from him
and thus even a warm white must not improve that feeling - it could, but thats no surefire winner

But You possibly know better ... maybe even than him
:rolleyes:

Not a matter of knowing better simply that if the spectrums are the same then the source makes no difference. Paolo from his comment was comparing to a cool or at least neutral LED. That is much different from a very warm LED.

Semiman
 

Burgess

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a 2-D cell flashlight, using a PR-6 bulb.

This is a much better choice than the PR-4 bulb.

Bulb life is much longer. 30 Hours rated, vs. 10 Hours.


Before i encountered CPF, in 2006, that combination was MY long-life low-output solution !

;)
_
 

Jimson

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IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

Any available. I was thinking of 2-10 lumens, with a minimum runtime of 5-10 hours. Some sort of incan nightlight.

For example the A2's bulb is good for ~50 lumens/1 hour. How about an incan bulb (hot wire) with an output of 5 lumens for 10 hours. Possible?

Something about the quality of light from a hotwire.. it can't be reproduced using an LED technology. However the 'runtime' of most incandescents does not exceed 1 hour and is their biggest drawback.

https://www.interlight.biz/light-bulb/395X#Specs

It was made for those old 'crank/squeeze' lights, and with a draw of only 70 ma. was easy on the hands. With a rating of 3 volts, it'll last longer than most, but downrated with a pair of 1.2v rechargeables, the thing ought to last for quite a long time. Yes, it's dim, for most of the juice is wasted heating the wire, but in the old days it was better than nothing when really long run-times were required.

A few screw-base miniature lamps were made with the same output, but they're probably also going to be hard to locate. The 395x is worth the search because it'll drop right into a ordinary flashlight.
 

night.hoodie

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

Resurrecting! I don't see a whole lot of interest threads in low lumen incan. It is on my mind more than high lumens.

The incan Solitaire I still like, but I use a little ring around the lamp, 10440 cells and higher voltage surplus military avionics lamps. Good runtime, believe it or not, mostly half as bright as incan MiniMag, and the lamps last. Problematic without an aluminum reflector and glass lens, but the entire light is replaced for $7 last I looked. I hope they are available for a while. This is not all that sturdy, and mostly for fun, but it works pretty good.

Everyone loves the E1e, but it is ultimately bashed for its low lumens. Stock, it is not impressive during the day. The curious are always pointed toward E2e for brightness, and I'm not sure that is a misdirection (for ENC, not EDC). IMO, an E1e with IMR cell and Tad Customs lamps is too bright, and only useful during the day (making 16340 low runtime not much of an issue), unless blinding yourself in the night with dark adapted eyes is useful, or if an outdoor night search or night woods walk comes up (sadly, rare for me). With IMR and matching lamp, I think it is too bright at night for the car or bedstand. I bought some primary cells that were old, had been shelved awhile, and the battery moon mode appears after 10 minutes. The lumen level is low, but right where I want it, and runtime is ordinary. New primaries give me the full 15 lumens much longer. 15 Lumens is bright as heck when your eyes are dark adapted, I prefer half that for low level incan. I save half-depleted cells for low lumen flashlighting.

2xAA E Series bodies with Elite heads give me nearly the same lumens with probably a flatter discharge curve with NiMH, if ever a full 15 lumens, it is brief, but love that flat NiMH output curve. Love this setup, need more. Hope Tad actually gets those 3012 lamps in, but they might be too bright, and I might stick with underdriving 3712 or others. I found Exell's 1600mAh 2/3A NiMH cells to fit E2e with a couple magnet spacers, work great giving good rechargeable runtime and E1e lumens, but the cells probably not all that LSD, and charging them takes a long time. I just need more and faster charger slots. The E2e is arguably a better hand/pocket size than E1e, if only it didn't come stock with too many lumens (for dark adaptation) then customized with absurd amounts of incan lumens, which the Exell 2/3A NiMH cells fix. I kid, perfect the way it is... for daytime, at least.

Others incan E users might be satisfied with the LightSaver Miser lower modes, for lower incans and longer runtime, but the slow PWM bothers me. The z52 can be tricked into lower "modes" without PWM, takes practice and isn't precise, may flicker, and though runtime is increased, it is not as much as we want. I'd like to see more tail mods to lower voltage (regulate) and increase runtime specifically for Li-ion... a lower lumen longer runtime E tailcap switch. It has been done, wish I had the hands, eyes, tools and skill to do one.
 
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snakebite

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

might try a pr9 in a 2 d
PR1 2.00v 0.95a 40hr
PR2 2.38v 0.50a 15hr
PR3 3.57v 0.30a 15hr
PR4 2.33v 0.27a 10hr
PR6 2.47v 0.30a 30hr
PR7 3.70v 0.30a 30hr 1.110w
PR9 2.70v 0.15a 45hr
PR12 5.95v 0.50a 15hr
PR13 4.75v 0.50a 15hr
PR15 4.82v 0.50a 30hr
PR16 12.50v 0.25a 50hr
PR17 4.90v 0.30a 30hr
PR18 7.20v 0.55a 3hr
PR20 8.63v 0.50a 15hr
PR29 3.60v 0.20a 30hr 0.720w
PR30 3.75v 0.86a 40hr 3.225w
PR31 2.40v 0.70a 40hr
PR33 2.60v 1.00a 20hr 2.60w
 

night.hoodie

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

might try a pr9 in a 2 d
PR1 2.00v 0.95a 40hr
PR2 2.38v 0.50a 15hr
PR3 3.57v 0.30a 15hr
PR4 2.33v 0.27a 10hr
PR6 2.47v 0.30a 30hr
PR7 3.70v 0.30a 30hr 1.110w
PR9 2.70v 0.15a 45hr
PR12 5.95v 0.50a 15hr
PR13 4.75v 0.50a 15hr
PR15 4.82v 0.50a 30hr
PR16 12.50v 0.25a 50hr
PR17 4.90v 0.30a 30hr
PR18 7.20v 0.55a 3hr
PR20 8.63v 0.50a 15hr
PR29 3.60v 0.20a 30hr 0.720w
PR30 3.75v 0.86a 40hr 3.225w
PR31 2.40v 0.70a 40hr
PR33 2.60v 1.00a 20hr 2.60w

Good info, and though I don't doubt it, still hard to believe. I have nothing against Mag other than size; the C&D bodies and heads are not compact, though I always thought every MagLite product was acceptably attractive, durable, and plenty useful for most flashlight tasking. I wish fivemega or Lumens Factory would design and release an E Series thread compatible head and reflector with a socket that could accept the standard Mag lamp base. It couldn't be ideal, but at least it would be compact, and increase E series lamp options, especially low lumen long runtime E series lamp options.
 

broadgage

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

http://www.cp-lighting.co.uk/11X30-2-7V-150mA-0-4W-P13-5s For any 2 cell flashlight that uses a PR based bulb, low consumption lamps are available.
2.7 volt 0.15 amp for example.
That would give about 100 hours service from alkaline D cells.

The above is a UK supplier, but something similar should be available in the US.
They ship internationally AFAIK.
 

night.hoodie

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

I should share this setup, because I use it often: Malkoff 1xAA body with Elite head and Lumens Factory 3V lamp (or SF 3V MN01) running with NiMH 1.2V AA Eneloop I get a nice dropoff from 4 lumens to sublumenal in over an hour, I think about 40 minutes or so of 1-2lm of easy-on-the-eyes incan.

Reading about AA Eneloops, they can handle a lot of current, and I wonder how bright a 1.1V 8A lamp (if it existed in G2 bipin for a Tads E Socket) would be for how long in this setup. That's a little extreme, and 1.35V at 2A would probably be more likely. Energizer Ultimate Lithium cells are also tolerate high amps with little loss of capacity, so for those, perhaps a 1.4V 2-3A lamp.

I wish there were G2 base bipin lamps available that were matched for high amp NiMH, another for Alkaline and another for Lithium AA, in two series, a higher amp lamp series (in each chem) for max brightness for 20 minutes of runtime, and another lamp design set (for each chem) for max efficiency at whatever the brightness would be.

Single AA incan is not common... but I wish it were.
 

gurdygurds

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

Do you have a photo of your malkoff setup that you can share?
I should share this setup, because I use it often: Malkoff 1xAA body with Elite head and Lumens Factory 3V lamp (or SF 3V MN01) running with NiMH 1.2V AA Eneloop I get a nice dropoff from 4 lumens to sublumenal in over an hour, I think about 40 minutes or so of 1-2lm of easy-on-the-eyes incan.

Reading about AA Eneloops, they can handle a lot of current, and I wonder how bright a 1.1V 8A lamp (if it existed in G2 bipin for a Tads E Socket) would be for how long in this setup. That's a little extreme, and 1.35V at 2A would probably be more likely. Energizer Ultimate Lithium cells are also tolerate high amps with little loss of capacity, so for those, perhaps a 1.4V 2-3A lamp.

I wish there were G2 base bipin lamps available that were matched for high amp NiMH, another for Alkaline and another for Lithium AA, in two series, a higher amp lamp series (in each chem) for max brightness for 20 minutes of runtime, and another lamp design set (for each chem) for max efficiency at whatever the brightness would be.

Single AA incan is not common... but I wish it were.
 

night.hoodie

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

Do you have a photo of your malkoff setup that you can share?

bY3pERw.jpg


Nkgs3sS.jpg


oops, unintentionally swapped order of lights, in below image, MN01 on left, LF on right,

n6ysqOw.jpg


for some idea of relative brightness, bright one is A3712 at 4.0V (probably should have used a 3V 15lm light for relative brightness... duh)

MoUoiJH.jpg
 

LeanBurn

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

Its too bad it has to be strictly an incan bulb. If you opened the parameters enough to allow a Yuji LED 95+ CRI a whole new vista of options would open to you and satisfy every parameter... and then some. Decades of bulb longevity, weeks and months of light from the same cells. CRI and tint that would have you second guessing the light bulb type.
 

broadgage

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

might try a pr9 in a 2 d
PR1 2.00v 0.95a 40hr
PR2 2.38v 0.50a 15hr
PR3 3.57v 0.30a 15hr
PR4 2.33v 0.27a 10hr
PR6 2.47v 0.30a 30hr
PR7 3.70v 0.30a 30hr 1.110w
PR9 2.70v 0.15a 45hr
PR12 5.95v 0.50a 15hr
PR13 4.75v 0.50a 15hr
PR15 4.82v 0.50a 30hr
PR16 12.50v 0.25a 50hr
PR17 4.90v 0.30a 30hr
PR18 7.20v 0.55a 3hr
PR20 8.63v 0.50a 15hr
PR29 3.60v 0.20a 30hr 0.720w
PR30 3.75v 0.86a 40hr 3.225w
PR31 2.40v 0.70a 40hr
PR33 2.60v 1.00a 20hr 2.60w

Some of hose run times look very optimistic.
No way will two alkaline D cells drive a 1 amp bulb for 20 hours, under 8 hours more likely.
 

RobertMM

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

So those are projected runtimes?

Silly me, I thought they were lamp life hours.
 

apete2

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Re: IMO the bulb you need - if you can still locate it - is a 395x.

Minimag 2aa bulb can work in a 2c or 2d with the new nip in adapter. You just have to bend the pins out. Throws very far
 

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