IR technology questions.

[FRITZHID]

That's Cody, he's very popular and quite learned. I'd say (haven't watched that particular vid) that he's most likely on the ball on the how-to vids.

 

[degarb]

Here is a must read: http://www.deltat.com/pdf/Infrared Energy, Emissivity, Reflection & Transmission.pdf

Now, after read it, i finally understand why your heat sinks should be flat black, your home walls inside and out glossy, and my gut was right that Emissivity and reflection are directly inverse. Also, as an object absorbs ir should also emit it. So, by lining the shiny copper reflector with the aluminum (oxidation reason), perhaps some of that absorbed or into heat,reemitted as ir on the back side of the aluminum , can be reflected back into the aluminum from the copper, for front side emissions. Definitely need a sealed air gap between the aluminum and copper to avoid conducting heat to the copper from the aluminum reflector, which probably isn't feasible. (End of my brain dead fall back, if gold plating proves too costly, even if bulb specific defectors is too costly. But, I don't see cleaning the copper each hour as viable. And think the ceramic 180 is bad with only 70% reflection. No price on flakey gold bulb rear.) Assuming brass might behave like copper, but not done the research.

I probably should invest in an ir thermometer that can go to 1400F or higher. But about tested out, for now. The priority is a 4500 watt unit body. I can't seem to get lit up for taking propane ir any further. Probably, the one stumble, one thing that breaks, one gust of wind, and fire splashes everywhere. And those fire stains can be rather challenging to get out of a house, burned to a crisp.

 

[degarb]

I have clear epoxy i could coat the copper reflector, to prevent oxidization. Maybe urethane. But, have not considered, because I found melting point of epoxy glue and high temperature paint disappointingly low on some flame test I did last winter.

But according to the literature, epoxy is ir unresponsive. However, until i can vent and blow cool the rear, the heat build up over time should melt the epoxy. One square inch test may answer the question.

 

[degarb]

Hope you know about IR meters.

Bought, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WYCYF/?tag=cpf0b6-20

This model has settable emissivity, for more accuracy, and came with their own emissivity chart : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UMTjDFyYlc7IHFkV7z1iJFmA3mNo6it7

Firstly, not sure I bought a high enough temp model. Then, reading specs, +-2C <100C , am I reading right? Then, it doesn't seem right in cold temperatures. Last night, 16F, house siding reading 12F, when house siding should have heat leakage from 68F interior and some stored IR from 1 hour prior sunlight. Snow, read 4F, and I believe, lower, if I adjusted the emissivity to proper level...I did find this morning (air temp 22F) more consistent readings holding it point blank onto siding. But while holding it in place, repeatedly measuring, the siding ir temp would rise as high as 34F, maybe even 36F (too many tests to remember)-which may be attributable to siding heat leakage getting trapped in thermometer nose cone. This rise in temperature, by holding and repeating, phenomena is not happening inside. {After seeing one Best Western painter work in 30F, in 2006 I was forced to paint 3 sides of a new house, outside and below freezing: it worked down to 28F, below, the water borne paint froze. But still not sure if heating the water-based paint or the heat leakage through the siding, is the reason "below freezing" painting works. ...Though, I did a 2008 test on my own house, put bowl of water-based paint in microwave, heated to just under boiling, painted my own side lattice in 15 F, which lasts to this day. I was astounded it didn't freeze.}...Not much luck yet getting consistent body temperature reading with this. I am guessing body ir thermometers add a few degrees, adjust for emissivity, and take more sample measurements. Temple reading at 88 emissivity set, seems to be half consistent, but half not.

 

[degarb]

Looks like some IR thermometers come with a traceable certificate. The Fluke 62 max is $100, and $200 with the certificate. At a glance, the Fluke 62 Max may be a bit more accurate than the $30 range I would probably wish to choose.

 

[degarb]

http://support.fluke.com/raytek-sales/Download/Asset/IR_THEORY_55514_ENG_REVB_LR.PDF

Simple little document that I just stumbled upon, and trying to pull out something practical.

 

[degarb]

Update: I just received the Etekcity 630 model. Outside temperature is 27: the 630 is reading 27.5 on the siding (as expected), while the 1025D model reads 22F, then slowly rises to 36F after repeated readings on same surface. At room temperature, they read close to each other. Also, the 630 model, I have to say (normally, wouldn't care), does feel more sturdy and better made than the 1025D...Returning the 1025D, I guess.