Maglite Halogen bulb questions

[forexer]

1) How many lumen (conservative please) does it put out? (Cant seem to find out)

2) What's the real candle power (heard it's 50,000?)

3) What's it's operating wattage? (Strangely maglite never gives the wattages of it's incan bulbs :shrug

4) Can i run it on my 6V 4.2AH SLA without melting it's filament? :thinking: Seems like the filament got slanted after about 10 seconds of usage with the SLA battery.

I'm a lover of both small and big bulbs so this is the small one:twothumbs Can any informed flashholic answer my questions?

Thanks a ton@!

Forexer

 

[325addict]

it is a 6V 1.67A (10 Watts) bulb.

About the Lumens: look at the site from Welch Allyn...


Timmo.

 

[forexer]

I don't think it's 10W. It's brighter than a 25 watt 6V halogen. It cant be 10 watts. No way. Anyone else please?

Forexer

 

[RODALCO]

You may need to put an ammeter in series with the lamp.
Also measure the voltage at the same time across the lamp and calculate your wattage.

 

[fivemega]

Some models are 11 watts and some 8.4 watts.
Anything higher than these will not run their advertized 1.5 hours run time out of 2500mAh battery.
Closest match to 11 watts version is WA1165 with 237 bulb lumens.

 

[forexer]

Some models are 11 watts and some 8.4 watts.
Anything higher than these will not run their advertized 1.5 hours run time out of 2500mAh battery.
Closest match to 11 watts version is WA1165 with 237 bulb lumens.

Thanks! Will it melt if i run it on the 6v 4.2AH SLA? If i'm not wrong it's the voltage that causes melting and the filament regulates the current. So I'm guessing my SLV wont melt it?

Forexer

 

[fivemega]

Thanks! Will it melt if i run it on the 6v 4.2AH SLA? If i'm not wrong it's the voltage that causes melting and the filament regulates the current. So I'm guessing my SLV wont melt it?

Forexer

A 6 volt lead acid battery will run the MC bulb pretty close to stock battery (5xNiCad).
It will not melt anything and run fine.
I have done similar mode many years ago using 3 cylindrical lead acid D cells (2 volt, 2.5Ah each) inside bored out 3D M*g and pot the bulb inside PR base using high temp epoxy.
With varietry of battery options today, lead acid is not very good idea for flashlight since they are heavy, low energy density and needs more care.

 

[yellow]

the most damage for Your wire comes from the very 1st "spike" when You power up the cold bulb.

With some means of reducing initial current, You can even extremely overdrive such ones and still get a very useful lifetime.


I agree to lead battery not being ideal, imho very bad. Such a batt is great for short, high bursts of energy needed (f.e. car engine starter) but really really really bad for low current continuous draw.
The only real advantage of them is their low price, anything else is bad.

 

[forexer]

the most damage for Your wire comes from the very 1st "spike" when You power up the cold bulb.

With some means of reducing initial current, You can even extremely overdrive such ones and still get a very useful lifetime.


I agree to lead battery not being ideal, imho very bad. Such a batt is great for short, high bursts of energy needed (f.e. car engine starter) but really really really bad for low current continuous draw.
The only real advantage of them is their low price, anything else is bad.

What about high current continuous draw? What actually is it's bad point?

Forexer

 

[yellow]

lets get a "high draw" flashlight: 5 Amps?
Is that high draw (in flashlights)?

that is nothing when high draw application is meant.
Therefore I mentionned the carn engine starter, what will it need?
100 A upwards? something like that

--> ANY flashlight - one that might still be considered "normal", even in here in incan - actually is low continuous draw
... not even the price advantage has helped the lead battery to be used. Must have some reason, or?


technically:
lead reduces its voltage (voltage sag) way too much. Even a half discharged one makes the light look "battery depleted", while Li-Ion, Ni-Cad, Ni-Mh offer a more stable voltage while getting empty.

 

[ampdude]

That surprises me that the Magcharger bulb is only 11 watts, I always thought it was bright enough to be at least a 20W bulb.

 

[forexer]

lets get a "high draw" flashlight: 5 Amps?
Is that high draw (in flashlights)?

that is nothing when high draw application is meant.
Therefore I mentionned the carn engine starter, what will it need?
100 A upwards? something like that

--> ANY flashlight - one that might still be considered "normal", even in here in incan - actually is low continuous draw
... not even the price advantage has helped the lead battery to be used. Must have some reason, or?


technically:
lead reduces its voltage (voltage sag) way too much. Even a half discharged one makes the light look "battery depleted", while Li-Ion, Ni-Cad, Ni-Mh offer a more stable voltage while getting empty.

Thanks for the clear up Ok, so i tested my 15w halogen bulb (not mag bulb) and it ran for about 1.5 hours. About 10 mins before the light went out (due to the circuit designed to cut off power once the voltage gets below some amount to prevent discharging), the light got dimmer and dimmer gradually untill it went off (colour temp really went from about 3400k to 2900k).


SLA wont be good for LEDs because the regulation would suck so bad. But i think in incans they are still fine to use. What about for HIDs? The ballast? I hope i dont get out of point.

Forexer

 

[forexer]

That surprises me that the Magcharger bulb is only 11 watts, I always thought it was bright enough to be at least a 20W bulb.

Same here. 270 lumens is very high for a 11w incan bulb. I think this bulb is well built. However the life span is very short. Incredibly short indeed.

 

[nighttrails]

Here is what the magcharger bulb actually tests out as: http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h75/pike444/bulbs/MagCharger-LR00001.jpg


And some discussion about it:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/179748&page=14