That is exactly what I did.
Maxa Beam question??
- Thread starter BeastFlashlight
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If it will fit a 7Ah SLA, it will fit a 9Ah SLA. They use the same case from all that I have had.
unretarded
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2018
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- 3
I just checked my stash and I have a brand new SLA, model UB1280, which could not be a closer fit if I custom ordered it....
But, will the factory maxabeam nicad charger work to charge a SLA ?
If I have to buy a connector for the maxabeam battery and a special charger, I might as well just but nicads as it is approx. 80 bucks for the batteries to make a pack. I imagine a connector and SLA charger will be at least that much ?
EDIT:......OK, looks like a SLA charger is pretty cheap, now if I knew what connector the maxabeam uses I could be in business. I don't want to just stick pins on gator clips in the connector hole...….I am cheap/frugal, but things need to be done to a certain level of quality, which in this case would be the proper connector for the battery to charge it to pigtail off the SLA charger.
EDIT EDIT :...….
I see now I am batting way above my brain level.....
It appears to be some sort of aviation plug. It also looks like inside the battery is a thermal probe and possibly a low voltage cut off circuit. I left all that intact and installed with the SLA. I could just buy a new connector to use with a new charger and replace the one on the battery pack to match then new one and then I would need to replace one end of the supply cable to the light with a matching one...….now we get in over my head, I have no idea what that battery is sending to the head unit thru the cable or what I might mess up doing all of this.
Since I can not seem to locate the proper thread pitch/plug style aviation connector, I might have to use 2 pins on a lead to charge this new battery as to not have to build all new cables and possibly eliminate something the head unit needs such as the thermal probe or the low voltage cut off sensors inside the battery pack. Assuming that's what those 2 things are inside the battery pack, one is almost certainly a thermal probe, not sure what the other is.....
EDIT EDIT edit...……
I just noticed a sticker on my maxa charger that shows it has been factory upgraded to gen 3 and is compatable with NiMH batteries...…...I might choose NiMH cells to build a pack over NiCad since the charger supports that. I also found out the batteries second thingy inside is a diode to keep it from discharging from the bottom contacts and the other is a thermal probe/switch...….from searching other threads on here.
I have the SLA pack back together for a dry fit, all soldered up and test fired it, it seems to work fine...…..now charging it is the only hurdle left.
But, will the factory maxabeam nicad charger work to charge a SLA ?
If I have to buy a connector for the maxabeam battery and a special charger, I might as well just but nicads as it is approx. 80 bucks for the batteries to make a pack. I imagine a connector and SLA charger will be at least that much ?
EDIT:......OK, looks like a SLA charger is pretty cheap, now if I knew what connector the maxabeam uses I could be in business. I don't want to just stick pins on gator clips in the connector hole...….I am cheap/frugal, but things need to be done to a certain level of quality, which in this case would be the proper connector for the battery to charge it to pigtail off the SLA charger.
EDIT EDIT :...….
I see now I am batting way above my brain level.....
It appears to be some sort of aviation plug. It also looks like inside the battery is a thermal probe and possibly a low voltage cut off circuit. I left all that intact and installed with the SLA. I could just buy a new connector to use with a new charger and replace the one on the battery pack to match then new one and then I would need to replace one end of the supply cable to the light with a matching one...….now we get in over my head, I have no idea what that battery is sending to the head unit thru the cable or what I might mess up doing all of this.Since I can not seem to locate the proper thread pitch/plug style aviation connector, I might have to use 2 pins on a lead to charge this new battery as to not have to build all new cables and possibly eliminate something the head unit needs such as the thermal probe or the low voltage cut off sensors inside the battery pack. Assuming that's what those 2 things are inside the battery pack, one is almost certainly a thermal probe, not sure what the other is.....
EDIT EDIT edit...……
I just noticed a sticker on my maxa charger that shows it has been factory upgraded to gen 3 and is compatable with NiMH batteries...…...I might choose NiMH cells to build a pack over NiCad since the charger supports that. I also found out the batteries second thingy inside is a diode to keep it from discharging from the bottom contacts and the other is a thermal probe/switch...….from searching other threads on here.
I have the SLA pack back together for a dry fit, all soldered up and test fired it, it seems to work fine...…..now charging it is the only hurdle left.
Last edited:
NoNotAgain
Flashlight Enthusiast
I priced some F sized NiMH batteries a few weeks ago, and it's not good news.
The batteries were 12,000mah rated and were $29 each.
For another project, I purchased some Tenergy 5/4 sub C 3300mah rated cells with tabs for just over $2.80 each. While I don't have the capacity, of a F cell, I do have a pack that's compatible to be charged with my present charger.
The batteries were 12,000mah rated and were $29 each.
For another project, I purchased some Tenergy 5/4 sub C 3300mah rated cells with tabs for just over $2.80 each. While I don't have the capacity, of a F cell, I do have a pack that's compatible to be charged with my present charger.
Echo63
Flashlight Enthusiast
If you have only done it once, then thats the battery that came with my Gen2 when I bought it off you...
you sent me the bits to build a charging lead too.
the Gen3 has a stock pack
