Modding Greenforce lights

Packhorse

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Question is why would you want to?

Dont fall into the trap of quantity light over quality light.

Trying to squeeze 3 P7's into a head that small will just give you a flood light that will next to worthless except for video work.
 

kallehornstrom

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The current MR16 has a rather wide angle but the main reason I want to do this mod is the colour temperature being to low. Thank you for making me realize the importance of a tight beam. Here in Sweden we mostly dive in pretty murky waters so illuminating silt is definitely something to avoid.
In terms of power consumption I guess I have to aim for a setup that doesn't draw more than around 1000 mA because of the 4.5Ah battery.
Maybe it is possible to use some ready made led module (from dealextreme)? Although many of them require a lower than 12v input voltage.
 

kallehornstrom

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Perhaps using golddiggers design but with an ostar instead of MC-E is the best (not cheapest ) option?
 

Packhorse

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There are plenty of driver options you could use.
And I wouldnt worry to much about run time. If you get 2 hours thats plenty. Remember you will not be using the light all the time during the dive and you will also not be using it on full all the time either.

My light has a 2 hour run time and its never a problem for 2 or 3 dives.
 

aquaant03

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Hi,
I am new to this forum, and after reading some of your treads about modding Greenforce heads, I would be intrested in doing mine.
I have a 100w HID head that I would like to convert to a usefull LED equivalent.
Can this be done easill or does it need specialist work?
I would welcome any idea's and help.

Regards
Tony
 

Packhorse

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A 100w HID? Or is it a 21w HID?

To build a light based on LEDs that will come close to a 21w HID will require quite a bit of work. Most cab be done with basic tools but you will need a lathe to machine the heatsink.
 

gcbryan

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A 100w HID? Or is it a 21w HID?

To build a light based on LEDs that will come close to a 21w HID will require quite a bit of work. Most can be done with basic tools but you will need a lathe to machine the heatsink.

Or 100W Halogen?

Packhorse, what is the best combination these days to approach something equivalent to 21W HID?

Do you try to do it with a SST-90 and how do you focus that...reflector?

Do aspherics work well with anything other than XR-E's. It would take quite a few of those. If you use those do you use aspheric optics on each one?

Just curious what the best approach is once you move from tightly focusing a single XR-E?

I'm guessing you also don't have to match lumen for lumen with a 21 W HID but rather pick the closest you can get with led's and still have control over the beam. Maybe 3 XPG's with reflectors or 4 XR-E's with individual optics?

Maybe pushing those at 1.5A and focusing on keeping everything cool rather than using SST-50's and 90's for anything other than video?
 
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Packhorse

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My quad XR-E aspheric running at 1400ma and a tight focus is pretty competitive against a 21w HID salvo. But the beam is quite different.

A SST-90 with the right reflector or aspheric will be just as bright or brighter but once again a different beam.

4 XP-G's would also be pretty close but ....... yep different beam.

So really as with any other light design you need to first decide what sort of beam you are after then choose your LED and optics to suit. So many do it all arse about face and choose a LED because it puts out the most lumen then find an optic that will fit and end up with a beam that they had no idea of when they first started.
 

gcbryan

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My quad XR-E aspheric running at 1400ma and a tight focus is pretty competitive against a 21w HID salvo. But the beam is quite different.

A SST-90 with the right reflector or aspheric will be just as bright or brighter but once again a different beam.

4 XP-G's would also be pretty close but ....... yep different beam.

So really as with any other light design you need to first decide what sort of beam you are after then choose your LED and optics to suit. So many do it all arse about face and choose a LED because it puts out the most lumen then find an optic that will fit and end up with a beam that they had no idea of when they first started.

I agree with your last point.

Can you briefly describe the beams in those example above?

I'm guessing the 4 XR-E's with aspherics is the most tightly focused with 4 XP-G's with the proper reflector/TIR coming next and the SST-90 being more of a flood/video light no matter what reflector or optic you choose.

Have I got it about right? My frame of reference is nighttime diving or daytime diving where the light is on and is needed for the entire dive so only a little brighter than nighttime diving with average viz of 15 feet.

I like a beam tight enough to deal with that viz and to be useful for signaling but I"m not too concerned about DIR 4 degree beam type of signaling .

So, I would think that 3 XP-G's driven at 1.5 amp might work as would 4 XR-E's. The XR-E's could take aspherics but the XP-G's wouldn't.

Could you still have an 8 degree beam using a reflector/TIR with 3 XP-G's?

I can picture these things in a single emitter light but I'm unclear as to what effect using 3 or 4 emitters has. I see reflectors set up for 3 or 4 emitters and the individual reflectors are tiny. I'm not sure what the cumulative effect is. I never see this aspect of beams/optics/reflectors discussed much.

As an aside, I just got a XP-G non-diving flashlight. My others have been XR-E. So for moving around the yard at night to me the XP-G is only an improvement. It still throws far enough in that environment and there is more hotspot and therefore less spill. It's more like I would expect a flashlight to be.

Walking around with a XR-E seems silly at times (regarding the beam angle) as I'm trying to light my way with a decent sized spill but then there's this very bright and small hotspot that does nothing for me other than to constrict the iris in my eyes.

I can imagine how a SST-90 probably wouldn't have the kind of beam for diving that I would need but I'm seriously wondering why a XP-G might not be better than XR-E. It's the 3 emitter issues that I'm not clear on.
 
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Codiak

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Gcbryan, I'd not be so quick to rule out the sst90 with a reflector and aspheric. It is possible to get a fairly narrow beam
 

Megalight

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Hi all,
that's really an interesting thread.
Last days I had a look on the same arguments.
LED (CREE and alls), drivers, etc.
Finally I decided to build from zero (not modify) my scuba light.
I will search for other threads in CPF forum but I post here for one reason.

Anyone know the kind/name of round screw contact switch of the green force lights? And where is possibile to buy?
I see that the same contact is used by other manufactors
I.e. http://www.gibielle.com/cavo_speleo.html

Thank you for any help.

P.S.
I didn't find some presentation area. Hello to all of you.
 

SmokedCPU

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Hi Pack,

your Sst90 mag aspheric receip is beating the sh!t hard to competition here lovecpf I dive regulary with salvo 21w hid and greenforce, but now Green hit a cryptonite and goes bad.

a friend gaved me his HID canister light, model '150' and canister HV, 14,4v 4.5Ah

is it normal that the power cord is giving me short circuit reading on the meter? Is there some kind of protection in the big alu power connector ?? If yes, how do i open it without broking things ?

we need his light back for a big dive trip, all the week end 300km away, with charter & hotel already paid :help:
 

Packhorse

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Thanks, Its a very different light beam to a 21w HID.
Its a little wide in angle to what I prefer but this may suit some divers.
I have changed mine over to a SST-50 and drive it at the same 6 amp.
It makes for a smaller more intense beam.

No its not normal for the cable to have a short. Are you sure its the cable? It may be a problem with the connectors on the end.

I assume you disconnected the cable from the light head and battery pack when you tested it???
 

SmokedCPU

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the beam patern that look like HID the most is with led mag reflector, but i cant achive to seal it right

yes of course, i take measurement of cord alone.

the cord is short with both end unpluged from their devices. Cord pluged in battery give me 0v on light end.

when 13v dc is applied to head, it lit.
when i plug it to canister, i have a hard time to make it start, one time on 5 ..... i must screw and unsrcrew it a lot ...

anybody have a hint about getting out the power cord from connectors on these lights ?
 

DaYerk

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What about 4 XR-E R2 and a Ledil Cute-4 smooth spot?

I modded my Tilly Tec MR16 Head with this 35mm optic.

It`s OK for murky water and there will be enough room
left for the driver.
 

Packhorse

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the beam patern that look like HID the most is with led mag reflector, but i cant achive to seal it right

yes of course, i take measurement of cord alone.

the cord is short with both end unpluged from their devices. Cord pluged in battery give me 0v on light end.

when 13v dc is applied to head, it lit.
when i plug it to canister, i have a hard time to make it start, one time on 5 ..... i must screw and unsrcrew it a lot ...

anybody have a hint about getting out the power cord from connectors on these lights ?

Do you mean it has a short circuit or do you mean it is open circuit?

If its short then if you plugged it into the battery pack it would draw full power from the battery and blow the fuse/pop the circuit breaker/fry the battery pack.
 
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