Nitecore SRT7 (XM-L2 White, 3xRGB - 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIME, BEAMSHOTS+

[AILL]

Thank for sharing. That is what I would expect for a higher capacity cell that could maintain longer regulation. What brand/type of 18650 were you using?

Here I used Keeppower 3100 cells.

Pls. notice also the excellent photos of the light that Zwick2 has taken (two posts above of mine).

Andreas

 

[tubed]

Thanks for the great review.
I find this a strange light in many ways - a whole bunch of new innovations all at once. I love the move towards control rings but the other stuff seems a bit gimicky and I generally steer clear of anything with a lot of gimicks.

One interesting use for these colored LEDs is boating. Having a red and green on your light gives you a backup for a busted navigation light (an all-too-common event for me). So boaters should consider this light. Other than that, I can't really see much use for the many colors.

 

[mhpreston]

Hmm - having lost a few things overboard I am not sure I'd want to add my new SRT7 to the list! Mind you, the strobing 'Port/Starboard' lighting would be fun to use. We confuse other boat owners at the best of times and this would just confirm it!

 

[markito]

So what the best battery choice for this flashlight? 1X18650 or 2x123A?
Thanks for one more excellent review!

 

[Gryffin]

Another excellent review, as always.

This light was an anomaly for me: one that appealed to me so much, I bought it *before* your review. Trust me, that almost never happens!

Just got it earlier this week, and so far I'm absolutely loving it. NiteCore hit this one outta the park. It ticks all of my boxes: forward-click/momentary-on, variable output, easy selection of modes while off... Many of the things I love about my ThruNite Scorpion, but done better, and with a more traditional forward clicky.

I think the "feel" of the control ring is the best yet: it's not as "viscous" as the Sunwayman lights, it turns smoother, but with more positive detents. What with the long gap in the variable-output section, it's pretty easy to find the Standby mode by feel, and I've found it easy to remember the rest from there. As for markings, you use a flashlight because it's dark; what good are printed markings in the dark?

I'm surprised you find the "soft start" on low-to-middle modes unique, since you compare it to the SWM V20C; My V20C exhibits the exact same behavior, it's one of my favorite features. I don't think it has anything to do with reducing stress on the battery, I think it's to reduce stress on the eyes. For "tactical" use, where you want maximum output *now*, there's no soft-start on max output on either light, which makes perfect sense.

But the SRT7 as a "V20C-killer"? While there may be some overlap in usage, I see these two lights as quite different. The other remarkable thing I admire about the V20C is that it's the same diameter and overall length as the compact P26-class 2xCR123A lights, like the Surefire C2 or Dereelight CL1H, despite the extra complexity of a control ring. The NiteCore SRT7 is a much bigger light, significantly longer and with a big honkin' 40mm bezel. Again, though, for what it offers, it's pretty compact; for instance, it's shorter than my Thrunite Scorpion, even moreso the Scorpion with the turbo head.

And, "G25C2-II killer"? I dunno, Eagletac isn't shy about driving emitters hard, like they were rented mules. The SRT gets beat on raw output, but yeah, the more added utility of the RGBs plus the more elegant UI put it ahead in my book.

Speaking of the RGBs... I don't know how much use I'll make of those, but hey, they're there if I need 'em, no harm no foul if I don't. I agree though, using that "police strobe" in public might not be a great idea unless you've got a badge on your chest.

 

[selfbuilt]

So what the best battery choice for this flashlight? 1X18650 or 2x123A?
Personally, I'm always willing to sacrifice a few lumens for conveninence and runtime, so 1x18650 is my preferred.

I'm surprised you find the "soft start" on low-to-middle modes unique, since you compare it to the SWM V20C; My V20C exhibits the exact same behavior, it's one of my favorite features.

Ah yes, I had forgotten that (so many lights ... ). Yes, the V20C does indeed behave the same way (including the instant-on for max levels).

In terms of competing with the V20C, I agree they are different lights. The upcoming Nitecore SRT6 is probably closer in design, size and function to the V20C (but with updated emitter).

I'm doing a few more 18650 comparison runtimes on Max, and will post when ready ... probably tomorrow, as it's Father's Day dinner tonight. :wave:

 

[Gryffin]

I'm doing a few more 18650 comparison runtimes on Max, and will post when ready ... probably tomorrow, as it's Father's Day dinner tonight. :wave:

Enjoy your dinner! Shrimp Scampi's on the menu here. :{9

Any chance you could toss in a coupla 18350s for comparison, too? The SRT7 is one of the few 2xCR123A-class lights I have that takes them comfortably.

 

[phantom23]

In terms of competing with the V20C, I agree they are different lights. The upcoming Nitecore SRT6 is probably closer in design, size and function to the V20C (but with updated emitter).

I think SRT6 in terms of size and brightness (but not throw) will be closer to G25C2. SRT5 should be the closest to V20C (almost the same length, slightly thinner head but still more lumens and additional red-blue emitter).

 

[Jared]

I'll try and make this as concise as possible.. I'm real good at rambling.

First off, thanks selfbuilt!! I don't know what more constructive things I could be doing but reading and cross referencing more of your reviews. :devil:

Like Gryffin, I too bought this light prior to reading your review. Impulse shopping isn't my thing, but I just couldn't resist. Anyway I will say that I'm pretty happy with the light. Few minor gripes though. Compared to my only other 18650 "tactical" light, the Mark I G25C2 NW, output and throw is visually just a small notch better, and build quality is about equal. Probably the worst thing about SRT7 for me is the tint. I wish wish wish they'd offer a NW version, but I'm left with a 6000K+ color with poor CRI. Next gripe is the accessories, I use pocket clips almost exclusively with my lights, but that may have to change. I don't like the clip on feature nor how it interferes with the grip ring... sigh.. speaking of which also really bothers me. It's slippery hard plastic and it never tightens up.. quite wobbly and spins freely. Also the holster isn't the greatest thing either, not allowing the light to be inserted smoothly with the grip ring attached. Compared to the Eagletac package, it really misses the mark. * Manufactures take note, Eagletac's accessories are top notch*

Next is about the execution of the lights unique features and selling points. Here I will say the RGB's are nice but not great. They need to be at least 50% brighter to be fully useful. Also, their beam patterns are quite spotty. I love the control ring, but I'll still nit-pick. I feel the full travel of the ring wasn't utilized, and that the 'dead' space at either end should have been used to make a finer adjustment interval. Also, I have gotten some glitches out of it, but only at the ends of the ramping sequence and oddly enough depending on the physical orientation of the light i.e. relative to gravity. When the light is switched between the Turbo and Strobe detent, while the beacon led is aprox at the 1-2 o'clock position, the strobe will become variable, i.e. fast, slow, randomizing, inverted duty cycle. I even had the blue and green LEDs come on simultaneously. Very strange. Additionally, when on the Turbo detent, sometimes the orientation of the light will induce random flickering. Move it left of the detent and that stops. And finally, at it's lowest setting, I can get the light to dim/go off by moving the light around in the same fashion.

Lastly, and this could be said about almost every light. The low needs to be lower. I was really hoping for the claimed 0.1 lumens. :shakehead

Pushing all that aside, and repeating what has been said before, the overall build and UI is excellent. Namely the linear, current controlled, efficiently regulated, soft-start ramping sequence. WE NEED MORE LIKE THIS!!!
PS: Do I see a review for the Armytek Predator v2.5 coming up? It may very well be my next poor financial decisicion pending test results... That and their soon to be released headlamps.

 

[Crenshaw]

Amazing review as always thanks! :thumbsup: . a buddy of mine bought it and THATS how I found out about this light. its a pretty neat little light, if a tiny bit bright in the low modes.....

Crenshaw

 

[selfbuilt]

Ok, here are the extra 18650 runtimes:

As you can see, the 3100mAh cell is able to maintain flat regulation of the full first 20 mins (plus an extra half hour later). Interestingly, the 3400mAh started to drop out of regulation a couple of minutes before the 20min step down (but also does an extra half hour at the lower level). Overall runtime is longer with the greater capacity cells, as expected.

So it seems to be very dependent on the type of cell you are using, in terms of how long the light can stay regulated.

Also, I have gotten some glitches out of it, but only at the ends of the ramping sequence and oddly enough depending on the physical
orientation of the light i.e. relative to gravity. When the light is switched into between the Turbo and Strobe detent, while the beacon led is aprox at the 1-2 o'clock position, the strobe will become variable, i.e. fast, slow, randomizing, inverted duty cycle. I even had the blue and green LEDs come on simultaneously. Very strange. Additionallly, when on the Turbo detent, sometimes the orientation of the light will induce random flickering. Move it left of the detent and that stops. And finally, at it's lowest setting, I can get the light to dim/go off by moving the light around in the same fashion.

Interesting, thanks for sharing. I haven't observed any issues wih my control ring yet, but I haven't carried it extensively so far.

And yes, I do plan to do an updated Predator review ... but it will be in awhile, as I have a number of light reviews to post before that. :wave:

 

[NorthernStar]

Selfbuilt,great diagram showing 18650 batteries at max output. It´s easier to read the data this way in a separat diagram.

 

[phantom23]

I think with 3400mAh cell brightness drops to 50% in a little bit more than 1h27min

 

[selfbuilt]

I think with 3400mAh cell brightness drops to 50% in a little bit more than 1h27min

Haha, yes, that was a cut-and-paste error. I've fixed it, just re-load the specific image. It was 2hr 19mins to 50%.

 

[Gryffin]

Next gripe is the accessories, I use pocket clips almost exclusively with my lights, but that may have to change. I don't like the clip on feature nor how it interferes with the grip ring... sigh..

Yeah, I forgot to mention that, it was a minor disappointment for me, too. Seems it was designed for you to use the clip, OR the grip ring, but not both. I can't even get the clip to stay on if the grip ring is installed, and even with the grip ring off, the clip is pretty scrawny for this size of light.

However, even though I typically like pocket clips on my lights, when I get to this size of light, a sheath is the only way to go. A P26-size light might clip semi-comfortably in a pants pocket, but 40mm? Oh HAIL no. Too dang bulky for this guy.

speaking of which also really bothers me. It's slippery hard plastic and it never tightens up.. quite wobbly and spins freely.

Weird, mine's pretty solid. No movement at all. I'm OK with the hard plastic, rubber ones tend to catch on everything.

Also the holster isn't the greatest thing either, not allowing the light to be inserted smoothly with the grip ring attached.

I do wish NiteCore used a heavier, stiffer cordura, but so far I haven't had much trouble getting the light sheathed with the grip ring installed. It's not a "no look" operation, but I've rarely dealt with a flashlight sheath that was.

Also, I have gotten some glitches out of it, but only at the ends of the ramping sequence and oddly enough depending on the physical orientation of the light i.e. relative to gravity. When the light is switched between the Turbo and Strobe detent, while the beacon led is aprox at the 1-2 o'clock position, the strobe will become variable, i.e. fast, slow, randomizing, inverted duty cycle. I even had the blue and green LEDs come on simultaneously. Very strange. Additionally, when on the Turbo detent, sometimes the orientation of the light will induce random flickering. Move it left of the detent and that stops. And finally, at it's lowest setting, I can get the light to dim/go off by moving the light around in the same fashion.

Whoa. Seriously weird. I think your's might be defective, I've been using mine nightly on "canine exercise and sanitation duty" since I got it, fumbling around with it along with a leash, dropping it occasionally (finally installed the #$%^&* lanyard yesterday), and I've never had mine change modes except when I mean to. Sounds like something's loose in yours, friend.

 

[selfbuilt]

Yeah, I forgot to mention that, it was a minor disappointment for me, too. Seems it was designed for you to use the clip, OR the grip ring, but not both. I can't even get the clip to stay on if the grip ring is installed, and even with the grip ring off, the clip is pretty scrawny for this size of light.

Likewise, there is no play on my sample with the grip ring when the tailcap is fully tightened down (i.e., it is held firm). For those who may not be used to these sorts of rings, please note that you have to remove the tail o-ring first to mount the grip ring (and then replace the o-ring after it is on). Don't try to force the grip ring over the o-ring, it's not a good idea. And as always, be careful when remvoing the o-ring to not damage it.

I actually find this grip ring design to work well on my sample. But I do agree it can interfere with properly seating the clip, if you wanted to have both on concurrently.

 

[Gryffin]

I discovered a "stupid SRT trick" I can do with the SRT7: with the tailcap switch off, switch to Beacon. Now, every time you do a half-press, you get the equivalent of a camera flash. Even though the beacon normally is on a 2-second cycle, in momentary it *doesn't* take 2 seconds to "reset." Useful? Dunno. Kinda fun for freezing motion at night? Kinda.

Also forgot to mention that I got the NiteCore 40mm diffuser with mine. Without a diffuser, the SRT7 is a little too throwy for indoor use, the tight hotspot makes you feel you're looking around the room through a toilet paper tube.

The NiteCore diffuser is big and rubbery, and fits very snuggly, but it diffuses *too* well: you get a very even wall of light with no noticeable hotspot at all. I was hoping for just a broader, softer beam that still had a *little* throw, mostly for indoor use.

Selfbuilt mentioned the Olight M22 diffuser fits; I found another YouTube review that confirmed that, and showed comparative beamshots for both. The M22 diffuser looks more like what I was going for, and it's more compact, too. Just ordered one, should be here Thursday, I'll report back then.

 

[selfbuilt]

Also forgot to mention that I got the NiteCore 40mm diffuser with mine. ... The NiteCore diffuser is big and rubbery, and fits very snuggly, but it diffuses *too* well: you get a very even wall of light with no noticeable hotspot at all. I was hoping for just a broader, softer beam that still had a *little* throw, mostly for indoor use.
Selfbuilt mentioned the Olight M22 diffuser fits; I found another YouTube review that confirmed that, and showed comparative beamshots for both. The M22 diffuser looks more like what I was going for, and it's more compact, too. Just ordered one, should be here Thursday, I'll report back then.

Yes, I agree with both sentiments - the Nitecore NFD40 is big and bullky, and provides an extreme amount of diffusion. The Olight M21X/M22 diffuser fits more snuggly, and provides a somewhat milder diffusion (similar to the Eagletac diffuser covers). I personally prefer the Olight/Eagletac level of diffusion.

Another option to consider is that discussed in my Nitecore EA4 thread (which shares the same 40mm opening) - the Butler Creek scope cover #5 (for 1.60 to 1.69 inch diameters). This makes an excellent flip-top diffuser option, with the bonus that you can use whatever film you want, for a custom level of diffusion.

One comment though - while the #5 cover is the only one that fits, I find there is a little more wiggle-room on the SRT7 than there was on the EA4. So you may want to put a bit of electrical tape on the inside of the cover, to help with firm fit.

 

[Gryffin]

Got the M22 diffuser. *Much* more useful beam pattern for indoors use, just ad I'd hoped. It's also much slimmer, and while flexible, it's a harder sort of rubber, not as "grabby" as the much larger Nitecore diffuser. Think I'm gonna belay it to the light with the included lanyard slot.

One bit of weirdness: if I push it on all the way, the bezel stretches the rubber housing to the point that, when I pull the diffuser off, the diffuser lens falls out. Not fun. The lens is held in place by six raised bosses; if I just push the diffuser on until the light's bezel hits those bosses, but doesn't stretch them, the lens stays in place... but the diffuser then sits about 1/4" further forward, making the overall light somewhat longer. It still fits into the sheath that way, so I'm not gonna worry about it too much.

Another option to consider … the Butler Creek scope cover #5 (for 1.60 to 1.69 inch diameters). This makes an excellent flip-top diffuser option, with the bonus that you can use whatever film you want, for a custom level of diffusion.

Yeah, I saw that, and have been giving it some serious thought; someone else on the thread mentioned Weaver's covers, too. In fact, I'm gonna try to sit down this weekend with some of my favorite lights and a caliper, and see if I can figure out which three or four scope cover sizes might be handy to have.

 

[selfbuilt]

One bit of weirdness: if I push it on all the way, the bezel stretches the rubber housing to the point that, when I pull the diffuser off, the diffuser lens falls out. Not fun. The lens is held in place by six raised bosses; if I just push the diffuser on until the light's bezel hits those bosses, but doesn't stretch them, the lens stays in place... but the diffuser then sits about 1/4" further forward, making the overall light somewhat longer. It still fits into the sheath that way, so I'm not gonna worry about it too much.

Yes, that can happen with these kind of diffuser covers - although I find the Nitecore one is far more likely to have this problem (given just two large "bosses" hold the lens in place). For the M22, I recommend just prying it off slighly, from side-to-side (instead of a direct pull).