Mine arrived.... Doesn't work
Grrrr...
Noctigon Meteor M43
- Thread starter Fireclaw18
- Start date
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Grrrr...
You are using non-raised top cells or they are too short. Or maybe they are too long over 70mm.
I am using unprotected LG INR18650-HG2 High drain batteries. They are supposed to be 65.20 mm and they look like they are button topped. I charged them with a nitecore intelicharger i4 2014 version overnight. is there anything I have to do to set it up? I just tapped the power button. I know its programable but I would think it would be set to something by default.
markr6
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The recommended length for this light is 66.6mm to 68.8mm. But intl-outdoor recommends the cell you are using for the M43, so it should work. And your button tops are longer than 65.20mm; I believe that's the flat top length.
Do you have another button top 18650? The M43 will run on just one battery so that would be an easy way to possibly rule out a defective flashlight.
I don't but I could stick something on the end of one of the batteries to add a little length to see if it works. I have a couple more sets of batteries coming in the mail in a few days which I think are longer.
markr6
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I must have overlooked it, but now see you said the LG INR18650-HG2 looked like they were button tops. I'm guessing they only have a slight rise to them, not enough to make contact. A button top will usually (NOT always though) look more like the nipple on an AA battery. Where did you get your cells? If we see a photo we can probably tell you for sure.
I'm pretty sure they aren't button top. Here is where I got them http://www.ebay.com/itm/261928195286 I also searched around and found a picture of some button top ones of the same kind and they look different. I think that's the problem. http://intl-outdoor.com/lg-inr18650hg2-3000mah-20a-high-drain-cell-2-pcs-p-872.html
markr6
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Yeah that first link is flat top.
Added a little but of wire to the top of the batteries. This thing is sweet. Now I just need to test and see how long it will actually last running at 2 amps or so.
Did you solder the wire on top of the batteries?
in other news. I got hte light with XP-G2 S4 2B bulbs. I plan on running the thing all night at the brightest setting I can. So it needs to run at like 9 hours at the highest setting it can. What would be your guess as a good setting and the lumen output for that bulb? Could I have gotten a better bulb for the job?
For example, If I run the thing at 1.5 amps with a set of 4*3400 mAh Panasonic batteries (math would be (4*3400)/1.5=9066)~9hrs) what lumen output would I be getting? Could I have gotten a more efficient bulb? Here is the cree wiki chart http://flashlightwiki.com/Cree#XP-G2
For example, If I run the thing at 1.5 amps with a set of 4*3400 mAh Panasonic batteries (math would be (4*3400)/1.5=9066)~9hrs) what lumen output would I be getting? Could I have gotten a more efficient bulb? Here is the cree wiki chart http://flashlightwiki.com/Cree#XP-G2
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What do you mean by 1.5A? You refer to the described outputs in the Manual, like 8A, 4A, 2A etc?
darkknightlight
Enlightened
If I understand correctly, this light uses a boost driver. What that means is that tailcap (draw currents) current will be higher than what the emitters actually "see". So draw current is highly dependant on the battery's ability to maintain voltage under load. I have not read the manual for this light, but I would imagine that in order to obtain 9 hours of regulated output, you would need to be using the light on one of its lowest modes.
markr6
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mhanlen did some nice videos showing the runtimes:
High: almost 2 hours but let's call it 1:50 of useable light (2500mAh cells)
Turbo: about the same with 2600mAh cells
If turbo is 8A, can we simply double the runtime at 4A? So that's close to 4 hours on High 1. And 8 Hours on High 2. I'm guessing it's not that simple though, as darkknight mentioned above.
But if that's correct, I would almost rather use something like the TK35UE with one battery swap. That way, you would know exactly how much more runtime you had after depleting the first set.
High: almost 2 hours but let's call it 1:50 of useable light (2500mAh cells)
Turbo: about the same with 2600mAh cells
If turbo is 8A, can we simply double the runtime at 4A? So that's close to 4 hours on High 1. And 8 Hours on High 2. I'm guessing it's not that simple though, as darkknight mentioned above.
But if that's correct, I would almost rather use something like the TK35UE with one battery swap. That way, you would know exactly how much more runtime you had after depleting the first set.
You have around 11W of energy per cell, that is 44W available.
For UI2 "Mid1" the output current is 0.5A at 8.4V (2.8V per LED) that is 4.2W add some 10-15% losses, that is around 5W input power, now that is around 8.8 hours of runtime based on 44W available power.
For UI2 "Mid1" the output current is 0.5A at 8.4V (2.8V per LED) that is 4.2W add some 10-15% losses, that is around 5W input power, now that is around 8.8 hours of runtime based on 44W available power.
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Nope. I was at work and used a paperclip. I bent the wire and slid it under the "button" that's not a button. There were 4 holes in that end.
I did my math another way. Going by this definition http://www.phonescoop.com/glossary/term.php?gid=194 of what mAh and miliamps mean, I calculated that if I use panasonic ncr18650b batteries holding 3400 mAh each I will have a total of 13600 mAh at my disposal.
If the thing runs at 1 amp I would in theory have about 13 hours 36 mins of run time. Being that the batteries probably wouldn't quite hold that much and there would be losses through the driver, I would say there would be 12 hours running at 1000 mA(1 amp). now, if I ran it at 1.5 amps I would have about 9 hours of run time or in reality maybe 8.
What darkknightlight was saying about boost drivers and regulated output is quite interesting. I guess I probably need to just let the thing run over night at specific settings and see what happens. I should check out some of those videos that markr6 mentioned. Also, here is the meteor manual if anyone wants a peak at it. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0WEb-DpmrKXZ3FYLTFibnYxa1U/view
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If you calculate using current per hour as a unit measure for energy then runtimes are exaggerated and unscientific, reason for which often runtimes are exaggerated by cheap manufacturers, you need to calculate based on energy available and input energy, amps are not a unit of measure for power, they are only half of the deal you need volts too . Also my calculation clearly add losses and I totally understand how the circuitry works.
It should be 750OTF Lumens for 8.8hours
For instance the Nitecore TM16 (4 of 18650) is rated 6 hours for 680 lumens maybe abit too optimistic. but anyway for 700lumen and 4*18650 that is the runtime ballpark.
Again:
You have around 11W of energy per cell, that is 44W available.
For UI2 "Mid1" the output current is 0.5A at 8.4V (2.8V per LED) that is 4.2W add some 10-15% losses, that is around 5W input power, now that is around 8.8 hours of runtime based on 44W available power.
It should be 750OTF Lumens for 8.8hours
For instance the Nitecore TM16 (4 of 18650) is rated 6 hours for 680 lumens maybe abit too optimistic. but anyway for 700lumen and 4*18650 that is the runtime ballpark.
Again:
You have around 11W of energy per cell, that is 44W available.
For UI2 "Mid1" the output current is 0.5A at 8.4V (2.8V per LED) that is 4.2W add some 10-15% losses, that is around 5W input power, now that is around 8.8 hours of runtime based on 44W available power.
Ok. I'll do the .5A overnight tonight and see how it goes.
