netprince
Enlightened
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- Sep 7, 2008
- Messages
- 547
Neutral tints only for me. Or at least lights I can mod to a neutral LED.
Not Gonna Buy Cool White Again! [Join Club Here]
- Thread starter EngrPaul
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calipsoii
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2010
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Haven't bought a cool white in a very long time now. Actually I haven't bought a neutral in a long time either, I'm primarily a warm white guy now. Until someone figures out how to make a neutral LED with a touch of red in it instead of sea sickness yellow/green, I'll take my nice rich 3000k emitters.
bodhran
Enlightened
No question about it. 3 HCRI, 3 neutral, 4 warm, and 2 cool throwers which I seldom use. Used to have a number of cool lights but not no more..*s*
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Colorblinded
Enlightened
Oh no, I'm fully aware and fully disappointed with that being the case
Draz
Newly Enlightened
+1 for me, join me up. I will not buy one unless its a light for a really good deal. If I had a "choice" it would also be a warm/neutral version
Oh no, I'm fully aware and fully disappointed with that being the case
Hey don't worry pal. I don't really fancy warm tint and preferring neutral all the way, until I tried the Malkoff M61HCRI that uses a Cree high CRI LED with a minimum 90 CRI rating. Boy am I in love with it! Suddenly I find myself playing with the limited edition warm white Quark 123 Turbo. It is a thrower of course and makes a good companion to the Malkoff.
Received a light today from going gear, a Thrunite 2AA Neutron which I could have sworn I'd ordered in Neutral, but I must have confused my N's and thought that when I was buying a Neutral Neutron, it was just a regular old cool Neutron 
Contacted GG and they were great though, quick to give me an RMA and the light is going back across the atlantic tomorrow. Gonna be a looooooong wait to get my light though.
Ohh, I also got the Novatacs that were on sale, which are cool white, but those are due for a mod
Other then that, Neutral/Warm/High CRI FTW!
Contacted GG and they were great though, quick to give me an RMA and the light is going back across the atlantic tomorrow. Gonna be a looooooong wait to get my light though.
Ohh, I also got the Novatacs that were on sale, which are cool white, but those are due for a mod
Other then that, Neutral/Warm/High CRI FTW!
I'll be a social member. I would like all of my purchases from here on out to be warm/neutral/high CRI, but tint/CRI is not the only thing I consider. UI, build quality, and a few other factors are more important to me, but I'm pretty happy with my collection right now and will be pursuing warm/neutrals mostly. I'm modding a TK30 to a warm MCE this weekend and I am excited to see how that turns out.
Phaserburn
Flashlight Enthusiast
Far prefer neutrals to cool tints. As for warm, not so much; they appear almost amber to me. For truly warm tints, I still prefer incandescents.
MWClint
Enlightened
im this way too. i tend to stick with neutral leds between 4000-4500k, and as for tint at this color temp, i avoid the greens at all cost, I dont mind the blue and reddish tints.
warm leds are like underpowered incans...dont like them in a reflector, but they are great as mules.
the worst led is cool+green. makes everything look sickly ill.
But I'm your sock puppet. You really need to worry when you argue with yourself!
On a slightly more serious note people. Can someone tell me what the Olight M31 runs? It doesn't say it's neutral, but it's definitely warmer than my G5... and although I hate to admit it, it does tend to let me see better at range due to not reflecting back so much on dust or whatever's in the air at the time. I don't believe it's purely down to the bigger reflector, much as I wish that were the case being a "cool" guy.
B0wz3r
Flashlight Enthusiast
Sign me up. The only cool tint light I even have anymore is the EO1 I still have and let my daughter play with. In general, I don't even consider a light that isn't available in a neutral; there has to be something really compelling about a light for me to even consider buying a cool version of it. The one cool tint light I'm considering right now is the BC40; it would be my first cool tint light in over a year.
Always have an exit
The only place where cool-white might be a requisite, dive lighting.
The optical transmissibility favors the blue light.
So the marginal increase of output of cool-white over neutral-white would be warranted there. I'd take any/all advantages when under water.
I like a big and open tent, so my wide range neutral is 3500K - 5000K, and my preferred range being 4000K - 4500K.
The only place where cool-white might be a requisite, dive lighting.
The optical transmissibility favors the blue light.
So the marginal increase of output of cool-white over neutral-white would be warranted there. I'd take any/all advantages when under water.
I like a big and open tent, so my wide range neutral is 3500K - 5000K, and my preferred range being 4000K - 4500K.
LEDAdd1ct
Flashlight Enthusiast
Totally forgot about that one. Yep, I keep some E01s in the stable...it is almost sacrilegious not to. They are cool, though, and I wouldn't mind them being a few kelvins warmer...
B0wz3r
Flashlight Enthusiast
Agreed. My daughter is 2 1/2 so I tell her it's "old mac donalds" light... E - 1 - E - 1 - 0...
Cools are definitely the worst but warm lights in the lower 3000K range make the browns of the forest floor all blend together. This makes it hard to tell what you're looking at. Neutrals don't create this problem. I just got a 4000 and 4500 K xml from nailbender and I'm going to see if there's a significant difference there. I'm not straying out of the 4000s any more. I'm paying for emitter swaps on my best cool lights.
Moka
Enlightened
Hi-CRI is where it's at for me, neutral is a close 2nd... I have my Sundrop XR-U, Hi-CRI Haiku used most, followed closely by my Neutral Ti Iris =) I also have one of the Quark Warm Lights, a little too warm for me, but a nice light nonetheless.
I've got an Ra Twisty on it's way to me at the moment modded with a Nichia183, really looking forward to getting it! =)
Will always buy the Warmer whites if the options available!
I've got an Ra Twisty on it's way to me at the moment modded with a Nichia183, really looking forward to getting it! =)
Will always buy the Warmer whites if the options available!
Here's an article that helps describe why flashlights provide better lighting when not "daylight" (cool white) in color temperature.
It has to do with our eye's response to light, and adjusted perception of what "white" is at lower lighting levels.
Daylight: Is it in the eye of the beholder?
"Outdoors, ... With the higher light levels the responsitivity of the cones is dominant yet the rods to a much smaller degree are still contributing to the overall response. With this large amount of light entering the eye, 6000K appears white.
"Moving indoors, the pupil size grows allowing a larger proportion of light to pass. Once again, the iris is not capable of maintaining a constant level of
illumination on the retina. Under these reduced lighting conditions, rods with blue sensitivity come more into play and hence the 6000K light that looked white outdoors now appears bluish and 4700K appears white."
For me, it's the level of red that's most important at lower lighting levels. Anytime someone complains thier "warm" light is too yellow, I believe they simply got an emitter with too much green in it. It could also be they are using it in the presence of brighter lighting which influences the eye's response.
Check out this link as well:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purkinje_effect
It has to do with our eye's response to light, and adjusted perception of what "white" is at lower lighting levels.
Daylight: Is it in the eye of the beholder?
"Outdoors, ... With the higher light levels the responsitivity of the cones is dominant yet the rods to a much smaller degree are still contributing to the overall response. With this large amount of light entering the eye, 6000K appears white.
"Moving indoors, the pupil size grows allowing a larger proportion of light to pass. Once again, the iris is not capable of maintaining a constant level of
illumination on the retina. Under these reduced lighting conditions, rods with blue sensitivity come more into play and hence the 6000K light that looked white outdoors now appears bluish and 4700K appears white."
For me, it's the level of red that's most important at lower lighting levels. Anytime someone complains thier "warm" light is too yellow, I believe they simply got an emitter with too much green in it. It could also be they are using it in the presence of brighter lighting which influences the eye's response.
Check out this link as well:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purkinje_effect
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