NovaTac EDC T and E Models CRACKED! Back Door/Easter egg found!

Lithium466

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That's how I programmed mine, a bit like the "Executive" HDS clicky.
Other than that, it seems mine has trouble maintaining highest output more than a few minutes with freshly charged Eneloop...maybe my Eneloop are too old?
It has no problem with a CR123A. With a RCR, it seems it's putting a lot more amps to the emitter, like ~2A. I didn't dare trying for more than a few seconds, doesn't want to fry my Classic!
 

jon_slider

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Okay this is what I noticed with my 120E.

It is not exactly a 120P. Someone said it becomes a programmable E and this is correct IME with my 20K SN 120E. There seems to be inconsistencies with the way click press behaves.

120P allows four settings.

Click: Setting 1
Click x 2 : Setting 2
Click x 3 : Setting 3
Click Press: Setting 4

thanks for the hint on how to access the level that Press gives from ON! I was able to customize my SpaDefense 120T to my liking (instead of maximum I chose Strobe for the Press from ON and click Press from Off). I am using 16340 cells (I did a battery reset by uscrewing the tail a little, then screw tight and hold button for 5 seconds only, then release.. do NOT hold for 10 seconds or you lose the 250 click hack and have to start over)

===todays programming

4 is ON, last mode memory
7 is ON, momentary last mode used, from off
Do NOT enable option 8! or you will stuck with a light that has to be factory reset (unscrew tail slightly, retighten, hold button for 10 seconds until light turns off), since the button wont click, and the light will only be ON when holding the button.
9 is ON

here are my presets:
click is ON (memorizes high, low, and moon)
double click is High 65 lumen
double click is Low 5 lumen
tripple click is moonlight 0.14

press from off gives the memorized mode
click from off gives the memorized mode

How to program what happens from a Press while ON:
from ON I did click press, release, to access the press option.. Then I programmed the level that press produces:
I did double click hold until I got the mode I wanted, I chose strobe, then turned off.

now from ON, hold gives strobe, from any mode
from OFF, click hold gives strobe,
in both cases releasing the button stops strobe and returns to previous mode, ON at whatever level, or Off if done from Off

Im kind of happy with this setup, for now :)
===

Novatac resets, from the Manual:
Soft-Reset – fix an unresponsive state or part of a higher level reset. If your light is working normally, turn your light on and unscrew the battery case until the light goes out, count to three and then screw the battery case back together. If your light is in an unresponsive state, remove the batteries for 2 minutes and then reinstall them. Identified by 1 second of dim light. Does not change your settings.

Battery-Detect-Reset – required to detect battery configuration changes. Perform a soft-reset but while the dim light is on, press and hold the button for 5 seconds until your light dims. Release the button when your light dims. Identified by 5 seconds of bright light followed by dim light. Does not change your settings.

If you release the button during the brighter period, your light displays the error flash sequence consisting of 6 rapid flashes and your light will not detect the battery configuration.

If there is insufficient power to run your light at full power there is also insufficient power to safely remember the detected battery configuration. When there is insufficient power to remember the detected battery configuration, you will see two seconds of very rapid flashing. This also indicates that the battery configuration has not been properly detected and damage may occur to rechargeable batteries. Only fully charged rechargeable battery configurations can be properly detected.

Factory-Reset - restores your light to factory settings, including disabling Tactical Momentary, enabling brightness level ramping, enabling the Option menu and detecting the type of batteries installed. Perform a soft-reset but while the dim light is on, press and hold the button for 10 seconds until your light turns off. Identified by 5 seconds of bright light, 3 seconds of dim light and 2 more seconds of bright light. The settings are now restored to the factory defaults.
 
Last edited:

Lithium466

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Glad to hear you have it set up as you like !
Like I told you earlier, you just need 18650 battery tube now^^
 

jon_slider

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LOL.. Im fully entertained writing notes about the differences between the setup for the P vs T models
work in progress:

=====
stock 120 T configuration:
click = 120 (maximum) lumens
double click = 10 lumens
tripple click = .33
from ON, press = Strobe
from OFF, press = maximum lumens (press uses the Primary mode and momentary)
from OFF, click press = Momentary Strobe
from ON, click press release = Strobe
Momentary, mode 7, ON
Ramping, Mode9, OFF

stock 120 P modes
click = 11 lumens (set by using double click hold, to ramp up, cycles through strobe and SOS and minimum)
double click = 30 lumens (set by using double click hold, to ramp up, cycles through strobe and SOS and minimum)
tripple click = .33 (set by using double click hold, to ramp up, cycles through strobe and SOS and minimum)
from ON, press = 120 maximum (this is set from click press from on, then double clic hold rising ramp until maximum, indicated by double flash. release at desired level, click turn off.. press level is saved)
from OFF, press = 11 lumens (this is set by Primary mode)
click press = maximum (set by using double click hold, to ramp up, cycles through strobe and SOS and minimum)
Momentary, mode 7, OFF (triple click hold to get to the 9 step option menu, release, click 6 times, hold till light turns off to toggle setting)
Ramping, Mode9, ON (triple click hold to get to the 9 step option menu, release, click 6 times, hold till light turns off to toggle setting)
 

thermal guy

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I have been playing with my novatac classic AA. Funny thing is I forgot how bad these things are compared to a real hds but for what it is it's not bad. But check this out after it started acting funny something I knew it was going to do I did a factory reset and did not lose the options menu. 3 clicks press. If memory serves I think I should have 🤔
 

Lithium466

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Interesting ! I didn't dare trying, I dread the 250 clicks^^
Are you sure you did a factory reset and nit just a battery detect reset ?
 

bigburly912

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My 2xaa Novatac has the same style spring in it as the troubled one that I sold to jon_slider. I haven't tried playing with it. I'll end up selling it I'm sure. It's nice as is.
 

Nitroz

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My 2xaa Novatac has the same style spring in it as the troubled one that I sold to jon_slider. I haven't tried playing with it. I'll end up selling it I'm sure. It's nice as is.

Love the form factor and its beauty, even the way the modes worked but dang that stupid spring and the fact that without it you could use an 18350.
 

bigburly912

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Apparently there are different styles of springs in these lights and some are more problematic than others. I've bought 5 of them in different iterations over the past 6 months and sold all but the 2xaa. It'll be gone soon I'm sure. They don't fill and niche for me I just like trying them out for awhile. [emoji16] My HDS lights and some of the others I have just get used more. I like them, I just don't love them like I do my hds
 

jon_slider

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Love the form factor and its beauty, even the way the modes worked but dang that stupid spring and the fact that without it you could use an 18350.

yes, the spring can be problematic
and yes, the signal spring can be eliminated and you can use 18350, with the stock driver:
NovaTac 120T Triple Nichia 219C - H17Fx - 18350 - Tail Clicky

l-r Pewter Novatac SPA Defense w N219b 4500k 9080 90+ CRI and 0.1 to 270 max lumens, Novatac Storm w N219b 4500k 9080 90+ CRI w 0.2 to 110 max lumens, HDS w XP-G 6200k 72 CRI w 0.08 to 200 lumens

oBFja62.jpg


All three lights share HDS DNA, including low battery step downs, and low battery shut offs.
They also share the same multi click operation, and programming options, thanks to the 250 click Unlocking instructions in this thread.

The Novatacs have visibe flicker when the battery gets low. The HDS has practically no visible flicker, I can only spot HDS flicker visually, when I intentionally wave the light quickly up and down.

They all share similar beam patterns, with a small tight hotspot. This makes the lights brighter in that small area, than other lights with similar lumen levels that are spread out onto a larger area.

My HDS has one outstanding feature the Novatacs will never have, a Rotary Dial, that makes multi clicking practically obsolete, unless I want to access strobe.
 

jon_slider

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thanks for the unlock tutorial

I just did the 250 click unlock on this Gen 1 Novatac 120T..
cZXKFn0l.jpg

I then set it up as a 120P

fun little light
 

Helmut.G

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thanks for the unlock tutorial

I just did the 250 click unlock on this Gen 1 Novatac 120T..
View attachment 15231
I then set it up as a 120P

fun little light
Interesting that you would bump this thread right now.
I reactivated my old Novatacs just a couple of hours before you posted, after not really using them for a couple of years. All of them are unlocked to the full functionality, of course.
The black 85T and the "Classic" (2xAA) work fine (if you accept the typical trouble with the springs as fine, that is), but the HA/natural 120T is very unreliable. It's probably a driver issue.
I stored the "Classic" near a window for a while, and the black ano has started to lighten a bit and go brownish on the side that was facing the light. Cheap chinese glossy black ano for the win ;)
 

jon_slider

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the HA/natural 120T is very unreliable. It's probably a driver issue.
glad you got some working well

for the unreliable one,
1. try exchanging the signal spring from one of your working lights..

2. If the 120T is still unreliable, next I would try cleaning off all oil inside the head and ends of body tube and inside the tail. also clean any oil off the signal spring.

did the 120T become reliable after either of those steps? if so, then relubricate threads and O ring, and celebrate :)
 

badtziscool

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Oct 13, 2006
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Interesting that you would bump this thread right now.
I reactivated my old Novatacs just a couple of hours before you posted, after not really using them for a couple of years. All of them are unlocked to the full functionality, of course.
The black 85T and the "Classic" (2xAA) work fine (if you accept the typical trouble with the springs as fine, that is), but the HA/natural 120T is very unreliable. It's probably a driver issue.
I stored the "Classic" near a window for a while, and the black ano has started to lighten a bit and go brownish on the side that was facing the light. Cheap chinese glossy black ano for the win ;)
Whaaaa?? I didn't realize anodizing can fade under UV exposure. Maybe paint?
 

Helmut.G

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Whaaaa?? I didn't realize anodizing can fade under UV exposure. Maybe paint?
The anodization layer itself is probably fine, I guess it's the black pigment embedded in it that breaks down.
I have observed this with a couple of lights with black ano. By far the most extreme is an Ultrafire WF-600 which used to be black. I's now mostly a burnt red on the side facing the window, dark brown on the side facing from the window. The tailcap and extension tube section were in a different anodizing bath and are now a bright sand color on the side facing the window and a burnt red on the other side.
 
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