Olight M20 Warrior Premium R2 Review
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Hmmm. I would love to see a comparison between the Q5 WC bin and the R2 bin. I want a snowball white beam, if there is a hint of any color at all I could deal with a hint of blue.
Green would be terrible. Is it really that much brighter? How noticeable is the green tint?
Green would be terrible. Is it really that much brighter? How noticeable is the green tint?
woodrow
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have the R2 version...so I cannot be sure, but I doubt it. The Fenxi T1 (acording to Selfbuilt's ceiling bounce tests) is just about (no way to notice with the human eye) as bright overall as the M20 R2. Also, I remember reading a number of DBS comparisons with R2 and Q5 leds with minimal differences. I would try the Q5 if you like white to cool white beams.
MarkIAlbert
Newly Enlightened
On mine, it's passable, but just so. Candidly, for the price, I would have expected better bin control. It's one thing to have all of the lights put out a particular color, another for one light to be white, another yellow, another green.
I personally would have preferred a less green R2 (I know they are available. I have a few Milky R2 mods and a couple of R2s from Allen at DereeLight that are quite neutral).
I came pretty close to RMA'ing the light but decided one 'warm' light in my collection would be fine. Just for giggles, I fired up a few of my HID lights to consider them with respect to color. Their color variations were by and large much more noticeable than the yellow green 'hew' of the R2 in the Warrior.
That being said "Matt, If you have any Warrior R2's that are in the 4000-5000 degree range, I'd be happy to do a swap..."
With regard to the LED being a bit off-center, yes, mine has that picadillo as well and can be seen across the wall.
All in all, this light has a lot of things going for it with regard to ergonomic design, utility, fit and finish, but has two noticeable flaws that really need to be addressed at the manufacturing plant - Bin control and LED position.
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MarkIAlbert
Newly Enlightened
As far as the DBS goes, rumor has it that the next DBS could be packing an MC-E
MarkIAlbert
Newly Enlightened
Given a few discussions I have had, it seems that the higher availability of the Q5s has made it easier for manufacturers to be 'picky' about which bin they use. R2s can get quite white, provided you are lucky enough to get one from the right bin.
MarkIAlbert
Newly Enlightened
Interesting. I think the UI is one of the strong points. Most of my lights have a forward clicky that has to be clicked numerous times to get the light doing what you want. While I would probably have preferred a U2 type interface, this one seems to work pretty well - you don't inadvertantly change the mode because you clicked temporarily or too fast.
phantom23
Flashlight Enthusiast
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- Nov 3, 2007
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I'm wondering why. MC-E is more flooder than P7...
Off center emitter or die inside? If emitter it's rare - reflector is screwed in in one steady position. But there was many complaints about off-centered parts inside LED and that's Cree's fault.
My M20 has nice slightly yellowish tint with no green hue:
M20 - VB-16 SWO
M20 - RF Spear
MarkIAlbert
Newly Enlightened
I'm wondering why. MC-E is more flooder than P7...
Off center emitter or die inside? If emitter it's rare - reflector is screwed in in one steady position. But there was many complaints about off-centered parts inside LED and that's Cree's fault.
My M20 has nice slightly yellowish tint with no green hue:
M20 - VB-16 SWO
M20 - RF Spear
Agreed, the issue is not with the assembly of the LED to the mirror, but the position of the die behind the lens. While that may not be Olight's fault, at the end of the day, it is their light. If their supplier is sending them quirky parts, they should work it out with the supplier...
As far as the color goes, the above pictures are dead on for what I see against my white wall. Yellow vs. Yellow Green? who's to say ... It's a warm light.
As far as the MC-E goes, I fired off a note to Allen inquiring about an MC-E pill. I wanted a 'wall of light' for one of my CL1s and for a SF M2. I also asked if he had any plans to do a version of the DB2 with an MC-E. He said he is looking into MC-E drivers and would then look into implementation options once the power supply issue was resolved. Just a guess, but I'm thinking the MC-E over P7 may be more related to power consumption/lumen than throw vs flood...
To your point about flood vs. throw, neither the P7 nor the MC-E are designed for throw, but they can thow quite well, with the right mirror and/or lens.
This Halloween, I took my P7 Mag and my R2 Dereelight trick or treating. The P7 was a lot floodier. It had a bigger hot spot. It also out threw the R2 CL1. Net net, the P7 mag lit up a house a yard, the driveway and the road, while the CL1V4 lit up the front door. Sometimes you want a tight beam. Sometimes you want that tight beam plus flood. The P7 Mag cleared a well lit path for the whole clan stomping down the street. The light screamed "Make a hole. Make it wide" It also had enough throw that I could light up my kids a block away. With all the toys in my light collection. That P7 mag is one of the most useful.
But the P7 mag weighs a ton. I'm hoping that A DBS with an MC-E should be able to yield a similar result in a much smaller, lighter package. That works for me. Lot's of flood augmented by a reasonably tight, long-throwing beam.
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phantom23
Flashlight Enthusiast
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DBS with MC-E won't behave like P7 Mag. Mags reflector is great thrower even with P7. P7 installed in DBS gives bright but still quite floody beam. With MC-E it's going to be even worse.
MarkIAlbert
Newly Enlightened
I imagine Alan would need to address that... or limit the MC-E to P-60 pills.
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phantom23
Flashlight Enthusiast
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It doesn't look good. Try the warranty service.
I've returned it for a refund, may come back and try again sometime in the future.
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My M20 has a very nice beam with the OP reflecter, but with the smooth one the beam is smaller and tighter with a shadowy ring around it.
It certainly looks like it would throw farther with the smooth reflecter.
This light is rated to throw a beam 250m (832ft.) according to the descrition on the box.
Does anyone know if it's with the OP reflecter,it's what came with the light.The smooth one is an accessory.
Take care
It certainly looks like it would throw farther with the smooth reflecter.
This light is rated to throw a beam 250m (832ft.) according to the descrition on the box.
Does anyone know if it's with the OP reflecter,it's what came with the light.The smooth one is an accessory.
Take care
Perhaps i can help answer this one.
On an AW 18650 protected cell, at full charge (4.2 volts),
i recorded the following measurements:
Low 24 mA current
Medium 220 mA
High This was more difficult. Perhaps about 750 mA.
Hope this is helpful.
_
On an AW 18650 protected cell, at full charge (4.2 volts),
i recorded the following measurements:
Low 24 mA current
Medium 220 mA
High This was more difficult. Perhaps about 750 mA.
Hope this is helpful.
_
KiwiMark
Flashlight Enthusiast
Surely you could calculate the approximate amp draw based on the battery capacity and resulting runtime. i.e. if a 2000mAh battery can run the light on high for a hour and a half then that would suggest the average current draw was somewhere in the region of 1.2amps (give or take - you would need to calculate the exact capacity at a similar current draw to get an accurate value).
