Olight S1 Baton Review

[Prepped]

+1 on tightening the tailcap. I had an issue with mine flickering. It REALLY needs to be tight.

 

[CyBuzz]

+1 on tightening the tailcap. I had an issue with mine flickering. It REALLY needs to be tight.

Good info. when mine shows up i will give it a good twist.

 

[verysimple]

great review of this light

 

[swan]

Sorry if this question was answered in the previous post about Turbo mode runtime but I am wondering if my light is working properly or if something else is going on. I just got it in the mail yesterday and I love it. This happened last night to me though, after running Turbo mode for a few minutes (not more than 5) the light shut off and wouldn't turn back on in any mode. I unscrewed the cap and screwed it back on and then Turbo mode came back on. But it went out again so I did the same thing. This kept happening until Turbo wouldn't stay on for more than 10 seconds and after it went out the light would not turn on in any mode. But as soon as I unscrewed and screwed the tail cap back on the light worked again. Does this just sound like a battery problem? I thought I put in a fresh RCR123 but maybe not. I did replace the batter this morning and the light seem to be good. I ran Turbo for a minute or two and it didn't shut off.
Any insight?
Thanks!

Assuming the cell is fully charged, it sounds like your cells are struggling with the load and are tripping the protection circuit, try a primary cell to verify before returning.
This light pulls about 1.5 amps in turbo and this is about 3c discharge rate which requires a decent cell such as Olights own branded rcr123 or better a AW rcr123 cell or better again, the AW/Efest imr unprotected 16340 which i get a full hour run time.
Most quality RCR123 cells only really have around 500-550 mah, at 1.5 amp draw[or 3c] it will have have trouble getting turbo once they are at a lower state of charge, indicating its time to charge the cell.
I not sure what brand or state your cells are in, but high internal resistance or cheapo brands can play havoc with these high output cr123 lights, hope this helps a little.

 

[KeepingItLight]

I wonder about current draw running on a CR123A primary.

With his Zebralight SC32w flashlight in H1 mode (the highest mode), CPF member recDNA measured current draw from his CR123A battery at 2.2-2.4 amps. Presumably, the Olight S1's turbo mode would be in the same ballpark. Unfortunately, that is significantly higher than most CR123A batteries are rated for. The maximum continuous discharge current for a typical CR123A battery is only 1.5 amps.

For this reason, recDNA decided to stop using the H1 mode. The lower modes work fine, with current demands below the 1.5 amp threshold.

Has anyone measured the current drawn from a fresh CR123A battery in turbo mode on the Olight S1? I would love to hear what you are getting.

 

[Prepped]

I wonder about current draw running on a CR123A primary.

With his Zebralight SC32w flashlight in H1 mode (the highest mode), CPF member recDNA measured current draw from his CR123A battery at 2.2-2.4 amps. Presumably, the Olight S1's turbo mode would be in the same ballpark. Unfortunately, that is significantly higher than most CR123A batteries are rated for. The maximum continuous discharge current for a typical CR123A battery is only 1.5 amps.

For this reason, recDNA decided to stop using the H1 mode. The lower modes work fine, with current demands below the 1.5 amp threshold.

Has anyone measured the current drawn from a fresh CR123A battery in turbo mode on the Olight S1? I would love to hear what you are getting.

If I can get access to a decent multimeter (the one I have only measures up to 0.2amps #sadface) I'll measure it for you and post here.

What are the possible repurcussions from drawing this much amperage?

 

[bykfixer]

Great review!

The backwards battery thing is indeed related to a rechargeable version....

I like how they look forward like that.

But....can putting in the battery backwards cause an issue?
Is it built (like some others) where there's no easy way to close it with a backwards cell?

If it's not reverse battery protected it's a no deal for this guy...

Glad to see all the recent Olight chatter.

 

[Jiri]

Sorry if this question was answered in the previous post about Turbo mode runtime but I am wondering if my light is working properly or if something else is going on. I just got it in the mail yesterday and I love it. This happened last night to me though, after running Turbo mode for a few minutes (not more than 5) the light shut off and wouldn't turn back on in any mode. I unscrewed the cap and screwed it back on and then Turbo mode came back on. But it went out again so I did the same thing. This kept happening until Turbo wouldn't stay on for more than 10 seconds and after it went out the light would not turn on in any mode. But as soon as I unscrewed and screwed the tail cap back on the light worked again. Does this just sound like a battery problem? I thought I put in a fresh RCR123 but maybe not. I did replace the batter this morning and the light seem to be good. I ran Turbo for a minute or two and it didn't shut off.
Any insight?
Thanks!

Actually something very similar one of my Olight S1 batons does this too... After few I think not more than 2 minutes the light switches off and won't turn back on... but after unscrewing and screwing the tail cap back on... it works normally again, but it has happened already like 4 times... Have you solved the problem yet??

(I am using AW 16340 battery)

 

[scout24]

Neat little light, just got mine. Quick question-is there a lens over your optic? I can reach right in and feel the "nub" in the center...

 

[Prepped]

I wonder about current draw running on a CR123A primary.

With his Zebralight SC32w flashlight in H1 mode (the highest mode), CPF member recDNA measured current draw from his CR123A battery at 2.2-2.4 amps. Presumably, the Olight S1's turbo mode would be in the same ballpark. Unfortunately, that is significantly higher than most CR123A batteries are rated for. The maximum continuous discharge current for a typical CR123A battery is only 1.5 amps.

For this reason, recDNA decided to stop using the H1 mode. The lower modes work fine, with current demands below the 1.5 amp threshold.

Has anyone measured the current drawn from a fresh CR123A battery in turbo mode on the Olight S1? I would love to hear what you are getting.

I just measured it, and was getting upwards of 1.8 amps.

 

[Frank108]

Neat little light, just got mine. Quick question-is there a lens over your optic? I can reach right in and feel the "nub" in the center...

Funny, I just noticed that today. Initially alarming.

 

[Frank108]

ThBurns, the Olight S2 appears to be available as of 11-17-15; at least there's no "Pre-Order" message on Olightworld and GoingGear sites said that S2's were in stock earlier today. So if you're feeling flush (with cash) and are up to doing another thorough review....

 

[msg1285]

Funny, I just noticed that today. Initially alarming.

It's just how the TIR lens is made. I don't think I have seen a light with a TIR lens and then extra lens over it.

 

[glockster dude]

My S1 Baton came with only one O ring, but it also included an extra magnet glued to the inside of the box. It came off easily. I guess it's a replacement for the tailcap one.

 

[newbie66]

Pulled the trigger and got the rose gold. Mine came with two o-rings, diffuser and lanyard.

However, after using on max for some time the light shuts off. Could nit turn it back on. So, I placed the cell in the charger and it reads 3.77V. Is it supposed to do that?

 

[Wet]

However, after using on max for some time the light shuts off. Could nit turn it back on. So, I placed the cell in the charger and it reads 3.77V. Is it supposed to do that?

What cell do you use? If it's an old, worn out cell, it can shut down before reaching low voltages if used in a high drain device like S1 in max mode.

 

[newbie66]

What cell do you use? If it's an old, worn out cell, it can shut down before reaching low voltages if used in a high drain device like S1 in max mode.

Using a Nitecore RCR123. About a year old, lightly used and never abused.

 

[Wet]

My S1 doesn't shut down without dimming first and it will drain an unprotected cell below 2 volts. It must be the protection circuit of your cell that is making the light suddenly shut down. You can try with some unprotected cell to see if your S1 can drain it below 3 V.

 

[Dimethyl]

If it is the protection circuit tripping, you can verify that with a multimeter. Once tripped, the cell should read zero volts. The protection circuit resets itself once placed in a charger.

 

[newbie66]

I suppose it could be my cell. Don't have a multimeter or another single cell light to test. But I do have the K2 LFP123A cell to test. Will check.