Olight S1 Mini Baton (Post #1 is now updated as review)

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

. Enjoy your new Mini Baton when you get it Boris.

 

[Boris74]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

. Enjoy your new Mini Baton when you get it Boris.

Not getting one. Don't have a need for it. The current Mini Ti is perfect. I guess perspectives are different when you need a light and when you want to know what 1 of 500 in a drawer will do, so you read charts and graphs to get an idea. Cool by me.

What I can tell you is I've seen plenty of raccoons hiding in a crotch of a tree hoping to be passed by. Just about any CW washes out fur to look a lot like bark colors. The NW H1R makes that fur stand out. Same with the S Mini. Huge advantage. I'm sure there are charts and graphs out there to prove me completely wrong and I'll laugh as I pass over them like always. Seeing the difference first hand in real use, yeah, them charts are pretty pointless.

My requirements and needs differ from a flashaholics wants and hopes. I'm sure a Nichia would do just as good, so no you have to use or get this to any manufacturer or individual from me.

 

[tedthebrit]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Moving away from tints a bit, has anyone noticed (or better yet verified) the published weights? S1 (aluminum) 30g. S1 mini (also aluminum) 43g. So it's smaller but 50% heavier? For comparison Smini Titanium is 30g, and in Stainless 49g. Does the new S1 Mini weight sound wrong or is it due to the larger stainless clip and bezel?

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Not getting one. Don't have a need for it. The current Mini Ti is perfect. I guess perspectives are different when you need a light and when you want to know what 1 of 500 in a drawer will do, so you read charts and graphs to get an idea. Cool by me.

What I can tell you is I've seen plenty of raccoons hiding in a crotch of a tree hoping to be passed by. Just about any CW washes out fur to look a lot like bark colors. The NW H1R makes that fur stand out. Same with the S Mini. Huge advantage. I'm sure there are charts and graphs out there to prove me completely wrong and I'll laugh as I pass over them like always. Seeing the difference first hand in real use, yeah, them charts are pretty pointless.

My requirements and needs differ from a flashaholics wants and hopes. I'm sure a Nichia would do just as good, so no you have to use or get this to any manufacturer or individual from me.

When you have been into lights as long as some of us have been Boris, you tend to get picky I find. Personally, I am a user and not a collector. I own very few lights and only consider upgrading when there is something special about one, it meets all my preferences, and suits the duty I intend to use it for. I also generally gift, give away, or sell off any lights that I am not using regularly or ones that have been replaced by a new model that serves the same purpose. I don't frown upon people who do collect though and accept that everyone is different, to each their own. Charts and graphs help to understand the strengths and weaknesses of a light so you can get the best value for your money and get a light that suits all your preferences, needs, and wants. You have to understand that everyone is different and we all have our own preferences and uses for a light. It is kind of rude to pick apart other peoples reasons for owning/buying a light and/or personal preferences imo.

The reason your NW H1R makes the fur and bark stand out is warmer CCT's tend to enhance earth tones like greens and browns and don't cause as much glare and reflection compared to cooler CCT's. They also tend to have a slightly higher CRI even if they are not high CRI. The "charts and graphs" would not prove you wrong, they would confirm your observations. There is a lot involved with why lights look like they do and perform the way they do. The "charts and graphs" can help you understand the differences and help you pick lights that perform the way you want them to. It is your choice if you want to learn and use these resources though so, I we leave that up to you.

Again, we all have our own needs, wants, and preferences. Picking lights is a subjective thing and we should all be accepting of others choices even if they differ from our own. I am glad you found a light that suits your needs Boris and I hope it continues to serve you well:thumbsup:

 

[jon_slider]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

this is not true today:

the High CRI is warmer than the Cool White

the website info changed
it now shows CW for both the Low CRI and High CRI models

"HCRI model color temperature: cool white 5500k, 90 CRI.
Regular model color temperature: cool white 6500k, 70 CRI."

Color temperatures over 5000 K are called "cool colors"

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

the website info changed
it now shows CW for both the Low CRI and High CRI models

"HCRI model color temperature: cool white 5500k, 90 CRI.
Regular model color temperature: cool white 6500k, 70 CRI."

Color temperatures over 5000 K are called "cool colors"

I noticed that too. I am glad they changed it as it was not accurate before and could be misleading to potential customers.

 

[Matt7337]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

I wrote a long reply to this thread yesterday and hit the "post reply" button, but today the post is not here... so I'll try to remember what I wrote.

Is it just me or is Olight's product naming becoming a little confusing? I initially scanned over this thread not knowing that it was about a new light.

I'm quite surprised to hear that people do not like the magnetic tail cap. In the case of my S1R Baton and H1R Nova, it is one of the most useful features. Those two lights have become my go-to for a headlamp and EDC pocket light in recent months, and whilst I think the H1R has a much nicer tint and floody beam than the S1R (due to the honeycomb lens) I can hardly fault either one.

If I had to give some constructive criticism, I would say that newer models could benefit from a coated glass lens as the TIR optic on my S1R is prone to getting scratched. Also I find that the pocket clip is too difficult to get on and off clothing due to the second grip point. I feel that it's unnecessarily tight and would actually damage some of my clothing if clipped on fully.

 

[jon_slider]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

newer models could benefit from a coated glass lens

I agree the plastic optic is vulnerable to scratches.
Its a trade off for smaller size.
The TIR is what makes the light shorter, because it does not require a deep reflector the way a glass lens does.

Good news is that it's XP so a 219b or c swap should be simple enough, I had to stick a warm XML2 in my SMINI

how do you like the LED you chose, is it high CRI?
a Lee minus green filter can help reduce the XM-L2 yellow/green tint.

I hope someone verifies that the High CRI XP-G3 model actually uses a different optic than the XM-L2 low cri models... would be nice if the XP compatible TIR, could be sourced separately (a guy can dream), to build a Copper Mini w Nichia

 

[Enderman]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

I agree the plastic optic is vulnerable to scratches.
Its a trade off for smaller size.
The TIR is what makes the light shorter, because it does not require a deep reflector the way a glass lens does.

This isn't just a regular lens. This is a TIR.
It would cost hundreds of dollars to have something like this made out of glass.
All flashlights with TIRs use molded acrylic.

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

This isn't just a regular lens. This is a TIR.
It would cost hundreds of dollars to have something like this made out of glass.
All flashlights with TIRs use molded acrylic.

They are talking about using a glass lens in front of the optic like used on many other brands lights, not about the optic itself. Many have criticised Olight's decision to use a bare acrylic optic including myself. It only would have made these lights about 1mm longer if they had designed it with a proper AR coated, scratch resistant, glass lens in front of the optic to protect it from scratches. Really, the bezel could likely be designed differently and it wouldn't even increase the length. It was a poor engineering decision imo.

 

[Boris74]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

They are talking about using a glass lens in front of the optic like used on many other brands lights, not about the optic itself. Many have criticised Olight's decision to use a bare acrylic optic including myself. It only would have made these lights about 1mm longer if they had designed it with a proper AR coated, scratch resistant, glass lens in front of the optic to protect it from scratches. Really, the bezel could likely be designed differently and it wouldn't even increase the length. It was a poor engineering decision imo.

glass breaks and will even scratch. Coatings will wear or scratch as well. You can scratch up a TIR lenses and it won't even be noticed in the beam. I have a TIR lense light from 05 and it's all scratched up. Beam of light looks like when it was new.

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

glass breaks and will even scratch. Coatings will wear or scratch as well. You can scratch up a TIR lenses and it won't even be noticed in the beam. I have a TIR lense light from 05 and it's all scratched up. Beam of light looks like when it was new.

Glass is much, much more scratch resistant especially if it is coated. And, a broken lens is easily replaced although it is not common to break a lens. I have never broke one in 25+ years of using lights and I am a tradesman and avid outdoorsman. Un-coated acrylic optics scratch very easily(especially on a bezel up carry only light like this) and it can be noticed in the beam depending on the amount and severity of the scratches. It is also reduces output and is an eyesore on an expensive light. Personally I prefer a lens to protect the optic and so do many other people but YMMV of course.

 

[blueridgeman]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Even with the Mini going on sale, the regular S1 baton on sale for $39 with a good CR123 worked great for me. This is a quick pocket light for me when out walking my dog or dropping in my jacket on the run. I am impressed though so at some point may pickup the mini also. How small is too small? 500 lumens max is fine. I wouldn't even run it at the highest setting anyway for my use. I have other flashlights for that that take 18650s for things like that.

 

[Boris74]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Glass is much, much more scratch resistant especially if it is coated. And, a broken lens is easily replaced although it is not common to break a lens. I have never broke one in 25+ years of using lights and I am a tradesman and avid outdoorsman. Un-coated acrylic optics scratch very easily(especially on a bezel up carry only light like this) and it can be noticed in the beam depending on the amount and severity of the scratches. It is also reduces output and is an eyesore on an expensive light. Personally I prefer a lens to protect the optic and so do many other people but YMMV of course.

I've broken lenses, I've also scratched glass lenses. Like I said earlier I have a TIR lense LED Light from 2005 that has been around the world three times actual. That TIR lense is well scratched up and the beam ain't no different from the day it was taken from the package. I still use it to this day.

Good news is the baton series lights are nowhere near expensive. Even the exotic metal ones, you can get three for the price of a surefire. Even better is the clip on the beer can Mini is lense up or down, the other batons have a reversible clip other than the exotic metal ones. So carry it lense down or flip the clip.

TIR on a 12 year user and still going strong is all the testimony I need. I'll stick with what I know over what I'm reading.

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

I've broken lenses, I've also scratched glass lenses. Like I said earlier I have a TIR lense LED Light from 2005 that has been around the world three times actual. That TIR lense is well scratched up and the beam ain't no different from the day it was taken from the package. I still use it to this day.

Good news is the baton series lights are nowhere near expensive. Even the exotic metal ones, you can get three for the price of a surefire. Even better is the clip on the beer can Mini is lense up or down, the other batons have a reversible clip other than the exotic metal ones. So carry it lense down or flip the clip.

TIR on a 12 year user and still going strong is all the testimony I need. I'll stick with what I know over what I'm reading.

Like I said Boris YMMV(your mileage may vary). You seem to have an issue with accepting the fact that some people have different opinions and preferences then you. Everyone has different wants, needs, experiences, biases, etc. and some people are more observant, knowledgeable, picky, critical, demanding, etc. then others. People often have different definitions of what is expensive as well. Many people would think someone was crazy for spending more then $10 or 20 on a flashlight whole others spend thousands on custom lights without batting an eyelash. To each their own man, just because you are ok with or like something doesn't mean everyone else will be or has to.

 

[Boris74]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Like I said Boris YMMV(your mileage may vary). You seem to have an issue with accepting the fact that some people have different opinions and preferences then you. Everyone has different wants, needs, experiences, biases, etc. and some people are more observant, knowledgeable, picky, critical, demanding, etc. then others. People often have different definitions of what is expensive as well. Many people would think someone was crazy for spending more then $10 or 20 on a flashlight whole others spend thousands on custom lights without batting an eyelash. To each their own man, just because you are ok with or like something doesn't mean everyone else will be or has to.

the mileage hasn't varied is what I'm saying. Scratches and all, it's like it is brand new. I don't have an issue with "facts" or even opinions. What I'm saying is devoid of opinion or even "fact". Just pure 12 years of very hard use changing nothing at all with output or beam quality. Oh sure it looks ugly scratched up and well worn but anything I illuminate with it won't know of it's unsettling to the eye appearance. I've been extremely observant the past 12 years using that light. I know the beam quality is the same it was day one. I took a cam corder video comparing it to an even older 6P when I got it. I confirmed after digging the video out. Same light it's always been. Knowledge is nothing without experience. Anyone can read and have knowledge. I'm not OK with anything or even "like" any of my lights. They're tools that get replaced when used to the end of their life. No one has to like it, but when I read scratches on TIR ruins beam quality, I know better and have the experience to know better. If someone wants to read about it that's cool. I'm just saying just as of 5 minutes ago I confirmed once again, scratches on TIR do nothing to the quality of the beam of light. If the light deteriorated because of scratches, I'd be the first to toss that tool.

In short when I read some of your posts I'm being upfront honest that it's not the case with my lights. The text doesn't match my real world use.

At this rate the LED Lenser will go 2+ decades and I'm fully confident the Olight TIR will easily match that. Even with years of scratches on the TIR. I kinda base present and future decisions on my past experiences, not what I read about speculations from any source. Just how I do things. I'm sure some lurkers appreciate the unbiased many years of use experience report.

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Yeah, I'm done. It's like talking to a wall.

 

[Enderman]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Lens or TIR zoomies never have a glass lens in front.
Not only does that cause additional transmission losses, but it is completely unnecessary.

The reason lenses are used on reflector flashlights is because the reflector surface can easily get damaged and scratched, and and so can the exposed LED.
In a TIR or zoomie flashlight, there is no mirror surface, it uses total internal reflection (or no reflection at all for an aspheric zoomie) so no protection is needed.
The LED also sits below the TIR/aspheric which acts as a protection layer just like a glass lens would.

Scratches on the surface of a TIR or aspheric lens do not cause visible aberrations to the beam, unless the scratch is so deep that it would have pretty much broken through the glass lens of a reflector flashlights.
This makes TIR/aspheric flashlights a lot more durable because they do not have a delicate thin piece of glass on the front.
In the cases that a flashlight uses an aspheric glass lens, the lens is several millimeters or even centimeters thick, again far more durable than the thin lens on reflector flashlight.

The final point is that no, having a glass lens in front of a TIR is not a good thing because it makes it more delicate and reduces the total output by a few percent, while adding cost and complexity to the manufacturing process.

 

[Tachead]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Lens or TIR zoomies never have a glass lens in front.
Not only does that cause additional transmission losses, but it is completely unnecessary.

The reason lenses are used on reflector flashlights is because the reflector surface can easily get damaged and scratched, and and so can the exposed LED.
In a TIR or zoomie flashlight, there is no mirror surface, it uses total internal reflection (or no reflection at all for an aspheric zoomie) so no protection is needed.
The LED also sits below the TIR/aspheric which acts as a protection layer just like a glass lens would.

Scratches on the surface of a TIR or aspheric lens do not cause visible aberrations to the beam, unless the scratch is so deep that it would have pretty much broken through the glass lens of a reflector flashlights.
This makes TIR/aspheric flashlights a lot more durable because they do not have a delicate thin piece of glass on the front.
In the cases that a flashlight uses an aspheric glass lens, the lens is several millimeters or even centimeters thick, again far more durable than the thin lens on reflector flashlight.

The final point is that no, having a glass lens in front of a TIR is not a good thing because it makes it more delicate and reduces the total output by a few percent, while adding cost and complexity to the manufacturing process.

Lol, I am not sure where you got that information from. Actually most lights that use optics do in fact have a lens in front of them to protect the optic and increase water resistance. A short list of examples of companies that use a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses over their optics are: Surefire, Malkoff, Oveready, Streamlight, Inova, Armytek, Emisar, Manker, Convoy, etc. Not to mention most custom makers lights as well.

The losses from a good quality AR coated lens are less then 1%. Even a low quality coated lens is generally less then 3%.

It should be noted that every scratch on an optic lowers its efficiency and increases transmission losses. Considering the average acrylic optic already has losses of more then 15% it is wise to protect it to prevent further performance losses.

Acrylic optics scratch very easily in my experience and it is not very hard at all to put a deep scratch in one that will show in the beam(even if it is only easily seen on the white wall). It should also be noted the acrylic can be damaged and/or discoloured by many chemicals including most insect repellents and gasoline. A quality scratch resistant coated glass or sapphire lens on the other hand can be very scratch resistant and if well engineered and properly protected by a bezel is very shock and shatter resistant as well. It is also impervious to most chemicals.

Personally, I would much rather have a flashlight with its optic protected by a quality scratch and AR coated glass lens. Even if the performance losses that the scratches, melting, and discoloration cause on an acrylic lens are not easily noticeable in normal use, I like to keep my things in good condition and it's nice not to have to worry about it scratching and/or being damaged so easily. Plus, replacement lenses are cheap and easy to come by in almost any size unlike some optics.

 

[maukka]

Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton

Quick impressions on the S1 Mini. If you care about beam quality, skip the HCRI. The frosted TIR hasn't helped the tint shift. It's fine in the middle of the hotspot but turns very ugly right around it. The normal cool white version is alright.