Power outage headlamp (long-lasting, low lumens)

[liteningbug]

I am looking for a headlamp for use in a storm/power outage kit. One of my biggest considerations is having superb battery life in event of a prolonged outage. As this isn't intended to get much use outside of the power being out (and thus, minimal ambient light to ruin night vision), a high maximum brightness isn't something I'm concerned about. However, I would like multiple options as far as the lower lumen levels go, with the UI having either the lowest level coming on first or the last selected option coming on first (ideally, not a super-complicated UI either, I may need to lend it to others). I'm hoping for at least a 1>lumen option, one in the single digits, and one somewhere above that. AAA is fine, even C/9V/button, but AA is ideal.

I thought I'd pretty much found what I was looking for in the Fenix HL-05 but the UI has the most powerful mode come on first, every time--were it reversed I'd buy 5 of them to hand out as needed. The ThruNite TH10 would also have been a shoe-in if they'd made a AA version.

I checked the forum archives but it seems most of the past related threads are about 5 years old. Thanks for any assistance you can provide!

==================Flashlight Recommendation Checklist================

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
_X__This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!

____I don't know yet
____Up to $25.
_X__Up to $50.
____Up to $100.
____Up to $200.
____Up to $300.
____Essentially unlimited.


3) Format:

____I am not sure, please help me decide.
____I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
_X__I want a self-contained headlamp.
____I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.
____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)
____I want a lantern/area light.
____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).
____Other ____________________________________________


4) Size:

____MICRO - Keychain size.
_X__TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
_X__SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).
_X__MEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)
____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.
____I don't know/I don't care.


5) Emitter/Light source:

_X__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

_X__I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
_X__I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
____I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a "host" or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a "drop-in" emitter from another source).


7) What power source do you want to use?

_X__I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
_X__I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).
_X__I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.
____I don't know/I need more information on power sources.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option
____I want a light that plugs directly into the wall (literally with prongs built into the light)
____I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
____I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)
____I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)
_X__I don't care


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

_X__I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
_X__I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
____I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

____SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

_X__All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.
_X__Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.
_X__Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
_X__Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
_X__Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
_X__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
_X__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
_XX_3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).




11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A "night-stand" light).
_X__Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
_X__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't know.


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

____Any size switch will do.
____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
____I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).
____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)
_X__I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
_X__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
____I want SOS mode. (blinks in ---...--- emergency pattern)
____I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)
____I don't care.
____I don't know.
_X__I want the UI to turn on at lowest setting or last selected setting in order to preserve night vision when using lowest modes

14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today's higher end flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
_X__I don't care.
____I don't know.
____Other, please specify____________.

15) Water resistance
____None needed
_X__IPX4 (Splash resistant)
____IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
____IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)

16) Storage conditions
____In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
_X__Emergency kit (long standby periods)
____Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
____Other_________________________________________ ____


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
_O__Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs. Appreciated but not mandatory, especially if true firefly/moonlight mode in white light available.
____"Hybrid" light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments
_O__Neutral white preferred over cool white

 

[reppans]

If you are not adverse to a little battery hacking, I would suggest an EagleTac D25A Ti XML or N219 ($40 clearance from Illumn) plus an aftermarket headband (eg, Nitecore w/top strap, <$10). If you have more funds, my favorite rig is low voltage XML Quark Pro with Malkoff headband - still available at some dealers (it's been discontinued) but will cost a lot more $$. Both are: very efficient on low lumens, have a tightly spaced lower modes, have "bright" sub-lumen modes (comfortable book reading level), are mechanical clickies with no parasitic drain, and are uniquely easy to battery hack to run on ANY battery (eg, 9V>D>26650) in a lantern mode

FWIW, I'm a low lumen/night vision/runtime enthusiast with your same priorities, have a light-box and good ammeter (DMM) and tested my lights side-by-side for output and runtime, and now current draw, on the low lows, and I collect (~ 1-2 samples from most manufacturers) AA/14500 sub-/low- lumen lights. I warn you to be VERY skeptical when comparing specs sheets, particularly in sub-/low-lumen category as many, even reputable manufacturers, massively overstate their outputs/runtimes/efficiency. Of my samples tested, the companies claiming some of the highest sub-lumen efficiency (in lumen-hours) test significantly worse than some of the companies claiming the lowest efficiency (above).

BTW, it's disappointing to see the specs on the Fenix HL05 - 2x2032s has about the same energy as half a AA Eneloop, and an Eneloop would can't even do 3lms for 90 hrs, much less 8 lms for 50hrs (400 lm-hrs)... Fenix usually has well regulated light, but clearly this model is unregulated playing on the ANSI 10%.... but that's like most of the headlamp market .

 

[AVService]

I recently picked up a Black Diamond Ion headlamp and am pretty impressed by it on almost every level.
It is cheap so you could get 2 for $50 and they already come with Energizer Lithium Primaries in the box!

The light has both Red and White capability and both steady and strobe too.
It is said to run 4l for 80hrs and 200l for 8hrs and I don't doubt anymore that it will.

The interface is potentially confusing but is pretty simple once you learn it too and the only downside for your list is that it also does not turn on at the lowest setting but instead will need to be dimmed down to it,thats right it dims!

It is also so small and light that it can easily go into a pocket and wears like it is not even there too,all around just a surprisingly great little light.

I have 4 of them now and many people I know are getting them too.

I also have a few ZebraLight HL and love them but you might not need anything so involved or heavy for your use?

 

[WarRaven]

Another +1 for Black Diamond line.
I've a couple myself, darn handy and bonus for me,
clip onto my RC truck for makeshift headlights when I'm not using.

 

[liteningbug]

If you are not adverse to a little battery hacking, I would suggest an EagleTac D25A Ti XML or N219 ($40 clearance from Illumn) plus an aftermarket headband (eg, Nitecore w/top strap, <$10). If you have more funds, my favorite rig is low voltage XML Quark Pro with Malkoff headband - still available at some dealers (it's been discontinued) but will cost a lot more $$. Both are: very efficient on low lumens, have a tightly spaced lower modes, have "bright" sub-lumen modes (comfortable book reading level), are mechanical clickies with no parasitic drain, and are uniquely easy to battery hack to run on ANY battery (eg, 9V>D>26650) in a lantern mode

FWIW, I'm a low lumen/night vision/runtime enthusiast with your same priorities, have a light-box and good ammeter (DMM) and tested my lights side-by-side for output and runtime, and now current draw, on the low lows, and I collect (~ 1-2 samples from most manufacturers) AA/14500 sub-/low- lumen lights. I warn you to be VERY skeptical when comparing specs sheets, particularly in sub-/low-lumen category as many, even reputable manufacturers, massively overstate their outputs/runtimes/efficiency. Of my samples tested, the companies claiming some of the highest sub-lumen efficiency (in lumen-hours) test significantly worse than some of the companies claiming the lowest efficiency (above).

BTW, it's disappointing to see the specs on the Fenix HL05 - 2x2032s has about the same energy as half a AA Eneloop, and an Eneloop would can't even do 3lms for 90 hrs, much less 8 lms for 50hrs (400 lm-hrs)... Fenix usually has well regulated light, but clearly this model is unregulated playing on the ANSI 10%.... but that's like most of the headlamp market .

I don't know the first thing about battery hacking. Not sure how either the D25A or the N219 would fit in a headband with their length and forward-facing lenses.

Thanks for the heads-up regarding low-level claims and the HL05 in particular.

The interface is potentially confusing but is pretty simple once you learn it too and the only downside for your list is that it also does not turn on at the lowest setting but instead will need to be dimmed down to it,thats right it dims!

That's really a problem for me. So is the Ion's odd choice of battery. I was looking at the Princeton Tec FRED, and that one seems like it could be the best of the plastic $20 headlamps for my purposes since it starts at its lowest setting and caps out at 45 lumens. (The Black Diamond Wiz looks okay as well, and Energizer makes some headlamps for $10-15 that could be an option, but it's super difficult to find any kind of worthwhile information as far as their run time; shoot, for some of these mass-market lights you can't even find out how many lumens each mode has, and don't get me started on how some will claim different run times for a particular mode in the same Amazon page.)


Then again, a friend was pointing out that common battery usage is pointless if I'm staying put in a blackout (only really useful if I'm leaving town and need to recharge my lights by snagging the batteries from hotel remotes or something), and in that case using CR123s isn't actually a bad idea--that is, since it's not like I'd be scavenging, and whatever batteries I have in the closet would be all that is going to be available, then if they're not standard batteries it doesn't matter a whit. With this line of thinking the TH10NW seems like a pretty solid choice (just wish they'd given it one more level between 11lm and 170lm, ~40lm would have been amazing for giving it a "smooth" transition from dim to glaringly bright). Any others like it I should consider?
(And for those who have had their share of grid failures, what's your take on this advice?)

 

[AVService]

That's really a problem for me. So is the Ion's odd choice of battery. I was looking at the Princeton Tec FRED, and that one seems like it could be the best of the plastic $20 headlamps for my purposes since it starts at its lowest setting and caps out at 45 lumens. (The Black Diamond Wiz looks okay as well, and Energizer makes some headlamps for $10-15 that could be an option, but it's super difficult to find any kind of worthwhile information as far as their run time; shoot, for some of these mass-market lights you can't even find out how many lumens each mode has, and don't get me started on how some will claim different run times for a particular mode in the same Amazon page.)


Then again, a friend was pointing out that common battery usage is pointless if I'm staying put in a blackout (only really useful if I'm leaving town and need to recharge my lights by snagging the batteries from hotel remotes or something), and in that case using CR123s isn't actually a bad idea--that is, since it's not like I'd be scavenging, and whatever batteries I have in the closet would be all that is going to be available, then if they're not standard batteries it doesn't matter a whit. With this line of thinking the TH10NW seems like a pretty solid choice (just wish they'd given it one more level between 11lm and 170lm, ~40lm would have been amazing for giving it a "smooth" transition from dim to glaringly bright). Any others like it I should consider?
(And for those who have had their share of grid failures, what's your take on this advice?)

Not sure what you are talking about?
The Ion uses any standard AAA battery which are about as easy to find as any choice out there?
It comes with the Energizer Primary AAA Lithium which is the ideal call to have in it if you might not use it until needed but then must still have it work even after several years.
But they are still just standard 1aaa cells and it takes 2.

 

[Poppy]

I don't know the first thing about battery hacking. Not sure how either the D25A or the N219 would fit in a headband with their length and forward-facing lenses.

Thanks for the heads-up regarding low-level claims and the HL05 in particular.<big snnip>

(And for those who have had their share of grid failures, what's your take on this advice?)

I would follow reppans' advice.
In addition if you are thinking about lending this out to people at any distance, you might also pick up a solar path light that runs on, and charges a single AA battery, so that it can be used as a recharger for each headlamp/D25a setup.

 

[RI Chevy]

SPARK makes an awesome headlamp and it uses 2-AA cells. Has a very nice UI, a nice low, and gives you choices for bezels with either a spot or flood. Nice long runtimes and a very solidly built headlamp. Excellent HA grey finish. It also comes in either CW or N. I have them SD52- N model.
Spark-light.com.

Features
5 modes
Super: 280lm/1.5hours
Max: 200lm/1.9hours
Med1: 70lm/7hours
Med2: 12lm/43hours
Low: 0.5lm/50days

 

[AVService]

Also there are headbands that turn a flashlight into a headlamp by placing the light on the side of your head pointing forward,that is how they work with a standard flashlight.

 

[Parrot Quack]

(And for those who have had their share of grid failures, what's your take on this advice?)

I have a generator and a truck load of extension cords. When I have the spare money, I'll purchase an inverter generator.

In the meantime, I have a basket full of flashlights and charge the batteries, before the storm hits.