PT Surge, What went wrong?

[Roger11]

I was changing the batteries (all eight) and was putting the holder back into the light when there was a sudden bright flash. The bulb had burnt out in the flash. What seems strange is that everything that is exposed is plastic. Any ideas what happened? I ordered a couple of bulbs from Bright Guy and they are expensive.

 

[carbine15]

You tripped the switch as you inserted the carrier. It was the bulb's time to go. Common tale, fresh batteries = instaflash. Sorry for your loss.

You're lucky you're not pulling glass shards out of your face right now.

 

[Roger11]

But that is it, the switch in on the side, and I did not switch it.

 

[Flash_Gordon]

But that is it, the switch in on the side, and I did not switch it.

The surge switch is a micro-switch at the top of the battery carrier. It is very easy to activate when handling the carrier. The lever on the side of the case just activates the micro-switch.

Mark

 

[Roger11]

Thank you Mr Gordon, I think I must of pushed on the wrong spot.

 

[vortechs]

The surge switch is a micro-switch at the top of the battery carrier. It is very easy to activate when handling the carrier. The lever on the side of the case just activates the micro-switch.

Mark

The first time I installed batteries in my PT Surge and was putting the carrier back into the body, the bulb lit up briefly as I accidentally hit the microswitch. Fortunately the bulb was fine, but I did learn to be carful about that microswitch because it is very easy to activate when installing the carrier.

Also, remember that you can rotate the battery carrier 180 degrees when storing the PT Surge loaded with batteries, since this prevents the external switch from activating the microswitch.

 

[jayflash]

What the others have said with the usual reminder to contact the manufacturer should you feel the lamp blew prematurely. PT should replace it if the lamp doesn't have but a few hours of use.

At least the replacement lamps don't cost $15 & up for some lamp assemblies. The Surge has become a recent favorite of mine after reading about it for two years. It resides in the 2D size flashlight holder on my tool pouch. It's much better than the typical and higher priced, name brand, rechargeable lanterns/lights.

There are exceptions, like my 1988 version of Makita's 9.6 volt work light, but don't most Milwaukee, DeWalt, etc. "rechargeable work lights" have artifact ridden beams of only moderate brightness? The Surge with NiMH cells is a good combo for a few hours of 100+ lumens with serviceable beam quality.

 

[Roger11]

I received two bulbs from Bright Guy. That was quick, sent US priority. Changed the bulb and no problem. Now I have an extra one. I still am not sure quite how this happened. I could just pull the bulb first, change batteries and put in back in.

Anyway, I like this light. This was the first time I changed batteries. I did call Princeton Tec, got a recording with their tech service and they did not return my call. I use the light at work for inspection of the test stands which are large industrial structures. I may do a few of inspections a year. I need a lot of throw. I don't pay for batteries but I did buy the light and the bulbs. The two bulbs cost $13.90 and shipping $6.66. For a total $20.56 on a light that costs $25.00. This like the prices I pay for ink for the LaserJet.

Lightning kept me stand today but tomorrow morning I will be at it again.


Thanks all.

 

[Illum]

Sorry to hear about it, Roger11

Thats the strange phonemena of incans...

My experience with 60 watt GE bulbs...if you leave them on, they will run almost forever, A few even went beyond their life expency of 3000 hours.

but, the minute you turn them off, let time pass, switch it back on and it blows like a flashbulb going off.

I'm an LED fan...
That finally told himself to go and buy a G2...

 

[Phreeq]

It's quite normal that incandescent lamps blow the second you turn them on and not after burning for a while. Turning on a incandescent bulb puts a lot of stress on the filament because the resistance of the filament is temperature dependant.

I once did a few measurements on a Sunlux 60W (230V) bulb.
At room temperature the resistance was around 62 Ohm and the initial current was around 3.5 A. This changes quickly (appr. 25ms) to a resistance of appr. 880 Ohm and a current of appr. 0.26A.

 

[Illum]

temperature dependant, mmm

So theretically the bulb won't blow as easily if someone devised a way to "preheat" the filament?

 

[vortechs]

temperature dependant, mmm

So theretically the bulb won't blow as easily if someone devised a way to "preheat" the filament?

Or perhaps gradually ramp up the power.

 

[illumiGeek]

Or perhaps gradually ramp up the power.

There are lights that do this. I believe Surefire has a light with a "soft start" circuit.

 

[Handlobraesing]

temperature dependant, mmm

So theretically the bulb won't blow as easily if someone devised a way to "preheat" the filament?

The cold resistance of the filament is very low, so when you first turn it on, a very large amount of current goes in, called "inrush current". For expensive laboratory, medical and specialty bulbs intended for the powerline, the common trick is to ramp it up on a dimmer.

 

[Illum]

The cold resistance of the filament is very low, so when you first turn it on, a very large amount of current goes in, called "inrush current". For expensive laboratory, medical and specialty bulbs intended for the powerline, the common trick is to ramp it up on a dimmer.

Yep, on residential circuits one would find ideal, but if a dimmer was added to a flashlight circuit, its like adding a big fat resistor to a small power source...

For Surefire's "soft start" I'd say its part of the regulation circuitry?

 

[bonvivantmike]

Yes, it's the Surefire A2 that has soft start, and it's a function of the unique circuit that regulates the incandescent lamp.

 

[carbine15]

Why not devise a switch that runs like a dimmer then you'd have unlimited light levels and ramped up voltages to your light source? This could be applied to LED lights as well. A potentiometer should do the trick and would go nicely with a twisty body. Twist farther for more light, and back for off.