R.O.P. Roar of the Pelican mini-FAQ/master thread

[Stormstaff]

Ah, cool. Thanks for the info!!!

 

[PeteBroccolo]

I tried building a Mag 2 C ROP Li-Ion, but it didn't seem to work:
- first I used 2 well-rested and somewhat used 18500 cells with the ROP Low and the most I would get was a flicker out of the bulb;
- getting frustrated, I removed the 18500 cells, slid in 3 well-rested and not-used-for-months RCR123A 3.6 v cells, and INSTA-POOFED the ROP Low;
- after removing the now-dead ROP Low, I charged up the previous 2 x 18500 cells, re-installed them, installed the ROP High, and all I got was dark.

On the other hand, I AM impressed with a LMSA601 running on 2 x 18500 in the same Mag 2 C with borofloat lens and HS cammless reflector.

I was even able to squeeze 5 RCR123A 3.6 v cells into my Mag 3 C and MOP cammed reflector to run a KPR180 bulb. While it is better than a standard Mag 3 C or D, it is not much to look at compared to the LMSA601.

 

[Mikeg23]

The ROP-LE uses two 18650s with the low output bulb, maybe the 18500s don't have enough capacity?

As for the RCR123s the pelican bulb is supposed to be a 6V bulb.

 

[LED BriCK]

Hey carbine15!

Is it wierd that I'm running 8 hot off the charger sanyo 2300's in my ROP low and it's dim as hell? Switch resistance is very high in military angleheads.

I just now found this post, I hope you're still watching... It looks like you've already done what I'm trying to do. Do you have all stock parts in your anglehead (I'm assuming it's the Fulton)? Is melting plastic an issue with the ROP Lo? Right now I have a 6 cell krypton running off of 8 Eneloops in mine, but I'm thinking the ROP Lo would be brighter even with the switch, which of course the krypton also has to contend with.

 

[PeteBroccolo]

The ROP-LE uses two 18650s with the low output bulb, maybe the 18500s don't have enough capacity?

As for the RCR123s the pelican bulb is supposed to be a 6V bulb.

Yeah, I have read the ROP posts, but thought maybe I read them wrong for the Li-Ion version.

I think I will post the ROP Hi bulb in the Sell or Trade threads, as I want to stick to 34 and 50 mm long li-ion cells.

 

[Mikeg23]

Except that you said the 18500s weren't working with the low bulb. It may be that the 18650s are required for the low bulb.

Getting two 18650s in a Mag 2C isn't hard if you already have it set up for 18500s. The hardest part for me was drilling the CPVC out with a 3/4" drill bit, sounds like you already did that part.

 

[KevinL]

This ROP thread was stickied for quite a while. It was just recently un-stickied, since now there is a link to it from the new sticky thread at the top of the Incandescents Forum:

Incandescent Forum - Threads of Interest http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=140021

Neat... it's actually a better way than cluttering up everything with stickies. The problem 'too many stickies' is that over time people actually ignore them subconsciously - I have MISSED threads that were sticky precisely because I usually read from the first thread (having already read the stickies and not noticing when a new one was added!)

18500 should work with the low bulb based on amperage and current draws. I clocked the low one at nearly 2 amps, which should be within the 2C limit for 18500.

Are the cells protected? That may be a problem.

 

[missionaryman]

I need some advice before I spend the money on a battery pack for a new vintage ROP I'm building.

The host is a Wizanrd 5D 3.5" Reflectored chrome flashlight from the 60's, last night I was testing it in this configuration:

2 x 3AA - 2D plastic carriers loaded with 6 x Sanyo 2300 AA and 3 x Duracell D Alkalines (mainly to fill in the gap), a theoretical voltage of 11.7, of course there is voltage sag, internal resistance of the switch (an old metal slide switch that I had to pack with foil to make contact), sets of threads (tailcap & head) before the circuit is completed and the plastic carriers are too tight for the Sanyo's making them not contact properly some times.
With this set up it's giving me about the same colour beam as my 2C 2 x 18650 ROP.

My question is would it flash if I used a stick pack made from 7 x Elite 4500's or do you think there is enough resistance in the light to handle it?
I want a neat shrink wrapped, end-end soldered pack but I only have enough money to try this only once.

 

[bwaites]

The 7 cell pack will more likely than not flash the lamp, BUT...if you do, you could just take one cell off one end or the other, with minimal difficulty.

The setup you are using now, with 6AA cells and 3D cells is NOT giving you 11.7 volts, which would INSTANTLY blow that lamp, and I seriously doubt you have 4+ volts worth of resistance!

You should be able to rework that switch to allow better contact than what you have.

Bill

 

[Icebreak]

7 SC cells will flash your lamp in a torch with overall fairly low resistance. 6 Elite 4500 cells will drive it beautifully. See post #4 of this thread. You might want to put an extension on your OEM tailcap spring and just use 6 cells.

 

[carbine15]

Just use dummy spacers. YOu dont want to mix NIMH AA with D alkalines. Something will get reverse charged and leak (or explode).

 

[Icebreak]

Thanks to carbine15, I re-read the original post.

DON'T mix chemistries. One type of cell will lose the battle. But you know that. You were just testing the torch.

bwaites may be exactly right and probably is. It could be that your test set-up isn't delivering what it is calculated to deliver. Let's say, for argument sake, your set up is delivering close to the calculation.

That you have used 6AA (1.2 x 6) + 3D (1.4 x 3) for ~11.4 Volts and not blown the lamp tells me that your vintage torch has a lot of resistance somewhere. Possibly there are points of contact that are so weak they affect the entire system. So, now I understand the question. Your torch may indeed have such a poor current path that 7 Elite cells wouldn't blow the lamp.

I don't like this idea. I've thrown 14+V and ~2A at a slightly oxidized Kroll switch and melted it. Your 7 cell application would be 9+V and a whopping 4.3A. It may cook whatever is the weak point...lamp holder, tailcap spring or switch.

Those sweet Elites may need a better host. If the host is good then 6 Elites will work.

 

[missionaryman]

Thanks guys, I'll go for the 6 cell pack and probably just run a wire from the spring in the cap right to the ribbon in the switch, This will remove some of the resistance out of the way then I can deal with any resistance in the switch or the head contact points. Anyone know what the equivalent of Pro Gold is in Australia?

I have to use this host - last night in testing against my 2C ROP with FM 2" deep reflector it was throwing about twice as much light at 50m - a 3.5" reflector is a brilliant find.

 

[carbine15]

since a D battery is 61.5mm long and a C battery is 50mm long, you should be able to stack 6C cells in a 5D host with 7.5mm (too long) that you could make up for by removing or shortening the tailcap spring. Then you could run 5C alkalines through it with more MAh and less resistance than a battery holder (which should be saved for a 1 or 2D light anyway. Just thinking out loud here. (not really out loud i'm typing.)

 

[PeteBroccolo]

I **FINALLY** got my ROP LE to work:
- Mag 3 C;
- fivemega MOP cammed reflector;
- Pelican 3854 HO bulb;
- 150 mm long piece of PVC pipe as inner liner/adaptor;
- 2 of AW's latest 18650 cells;
- 2 of AW's rare earth magnets and 1 of his 17 mm brass spacers for the DS charger.

It takes a couple of clicks to fire, but it FIRES! It DEFINITELY needs a glass lens!

It may JUST be straight-forward enough of a modification to interest my non-flashaholic partners. Had to retire my KPR120 bulb to make way for this and avoid buying a Mag 2 D.

While I could make the KPR120 work with 3 RCR123A 3.6 v protected unregulated cells in a Mag 3 C, it is not as impressive as the ROP.

 

[Mikeg23]

So you got the big D hi bulb to light with the 18650 batteries. I didn't even try it as I just assumed it would be a waste of time.

Are you using protected or unprotected batteries?

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

I had two unproteced 18650 (A ticking bomb perhaps?) running a Rop Hi in a 2C M*g. It lit first time every time.

I wanted the 2C for a M*gled, so I moved it over to a 2D. Same deal.

I can attest that 6C will fit easy into a 5D light. 5C will go in a 4D etc.

I have a WA01111 running in a Streamlight Excalibre 5D as it has the only reflector that comes close to having a pleasing beam with that 1111!

I imagine 6SC in a 4D light is about the breakover between size/brightness/runtime.

Happy Modding y'all!

 

[PeteBroccolo]

So you got the big D hi bulb to light with the 18650 batteries. I didn't even try it as I just assumed it would be a waste of time.

Are you using protected or unprotected batteries?

If your question was directed to my post, I am using 2 of AW's latest 18650, which are protected.

From what I understand from previous postings, it is not uncommon with protected cells to have to click more than once to get this bulb to fire.

Multi-clicks are frustrating, and may disqualify this from being the type of light my partners would be interested in, but you never know. It IS brigt, and was easy to build.

 

[Aepoc]

My friend had to do the multiple click thing to get his 2-D Mag mod to light. He was running a couple Li-polymer or Li-ion protected batteries and the ROP low bulb. I was unimpressed with the difficulty in getting the bulb to fire. Apparently he was too because he switched back to his old bulb soon after.

Also somebody posted previously that the pelican high bulb is supposed to be a 6v bulb... I am running six 1.2v sub-C's (total 7.2v) in my ROP high and it is bright as ****. First of all is it correct that 6v is the normal running voltage for the ROP high bulb? If so then are there any bad side-effects of running a bulb at a higher voltage?

 

[Pokerstud]

Also somebody posted previously that the pelican high bulb is supposed to be a 6v bulb... I am running six 1.2v sub-C's (total 7.2v) in my ROP high and it is bright as ****. First of all is it correct that 6v is the normal running voltage for the ROP high bulb? If so then are there any bad side-effects of running a bulb at a higher voltage?[/QUOTE]


Over driving a bulb shortens its life span, and squeezes out that last lumen. As flashaholics, this is what we do, this is who we are. :santa: