Red light isn't just great for preserving dark adapted vision, it makes a better bug light than a yellow light, as most insects cannot see that far up the spectrum, so they won't be attracted to it (mosquitos, unfortunately, can see red and IR, but they are not necessarily attracted to red light, they're attracted to heat and CO2).
here's an older thread with many options included
Not listed there is FourSevens Atom A0 with red LED. Most of the lights in the thread I link above are discontinued, and so is the Atom A0 (and all FourSevens lights) unfortunately.
Surefire's L1 in red and incan A2 Aviator can still be found, and the
A2 LED Aviator (on sale for $99), and Surefire has a
new line of Aviators, but they are not cheap.
HDS had a hyper-red (660nm) LED option, and you can still order an
HDS with a red LED. I would speculate this is probably the finest red light you can get that is still available new, but it isn't inexpensive.
There is also the LRI Photon Pro, dual spectrum, but I don't recommend it (kind of a toy, and driver has very distracting slow PWM). Also, Streamlight's Twin Task is dual spectrum. There are a few quality lights with multispectrum including red, Fenix TK25, Eagtac D25LC2color and NiteCore SRT7, SRT9.
Gerber had the Infinity Ultra Task light available with LED, can find sometimes on eBay, still, quality AA light, but a single 5mm LED
I found a $6 hi-low-strobe AA/14500 zoomie with red LED on eBay
like this 5-mode one, I think UltraFire sells the same model in black. I just discovered you can get a red LED with the Uniquefire T20 (never heard of it, another zoomie). Ultrafire makes a red hunting light that ought to be very bright on 2xCR123A. Wicked Hunting Lights A47 is red and bright, for hunting coyote (which is cruel and ineffective, can't get them all, and with prolific breeding, they always return; hazing nuisance coyote is far more effective than killing them).
You can get a TecAccessories
Pixel with a red LED, butten cell light for keychain, but it won't be bright.
Forgot about
Black Cat HM01-R-R with red Osram LED, used to be easier to find and inexpensive.
Also forgot about the ZebraLight red headlamps, not sure they are still available,
H502r, was also available in "photo red," (Cree's way to say "deep red" or "hyper red"), the
H502pr.
colight's post below just reminded me that Fenix has the
CL05 LipLight EDC Emergency Lamp that includes a few red modes.
I mentioned NiteCore above, as they have a number of lights that include red, but I just now discovered the red-only USB rechargeable
NiteCore Tube for a reasonable price for 13 red lumens.
My favorite red light is a ThruNite TiS with an LED swap to Cree XRE red LED, courtesy of
Vinh. It is probably my most used light, always carried. I'm going to have Vinh duplicate this light, I like it so much, maybe also in the aluminum ThruNite Ti. I would also like to have Vinh customize a Fenix E01 and Fenix E05 with red LED. I may even opt to get the new Fenix LD02 V2.0 customized, swapping the moded warm white LED for a red one, and the second single mode UV emitter with a warm white LED. Fenix drivers are wonderful, constant current and regulated for constant brightness. This takes money, hope I can save for it. Vinh's work is top shelf, increases the value of the lights, so it is worth it.
The reason I like this Vinh custom red TiS so much (beyond that the driver is constant current and very efficient) is the mode separation, sublumen firefly, 12 lumens, and 120 lumens, which addresses OP's question, "how many lumens is reasonable?" The less dark adapted your eyes are, the brighter red light you will need. I have on occassion had such dark adapted eyes that sublumen red seems too bright, but more usually, with less dark adapted eyes, the sublumen red is barely visible, so the 12 lumen red usually suffices, and at times, no dark adaptation, where 120 lumens of red is required.
What's great about red is you can work with high intensity red while your eyes slowly achieve dark adapation. I think 12 lumens of red is a happy medium, and is equivalent to about 1lm of white light, but light levels this low can be dangerous if you have zero dark adaptation. Some have speculated it may take a week to get fully dark adapted eyes, and that's hard to do... a lot of avoiding the sun and wearing shade 6 to shade 14 welders goggles if you can't, and avoiding any white light for more than a split second. One trick I learned is if I need a brighter light that will destroy dark adaptation, is to close one eye and keep it closed while using the brighter light, this way, at least one eye remains dark adapted. Do not do this while driving at night! Wearing lightly shaded polarized lenses is much safer, and adding a ball cap one can use the cap brim to block out the bright street lights or the headlights of oncoming traffic.
Any color light of low intensity will serve to help preserve dark adaptation, such as an original incan MagLite Solitaire (with krypton lamp rather than xenon), or an incan Surefire E1e after you take the edge off a fresh CR123A cell (using the battery's "moon mode"). Generally, I believe most would want a white light for this purpose closer to 1lm or sublumen intensities. And the warmer the color temperature, the better it is for dark adapation, so forget cool white, you're better served with 1lm of 3000K than 1lm of 6500K.
I sure wish there were more red LED lights to choose from.