[Review] MANKER E01 (Nichia 219, 1x AAA)

_UPz

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Oct 18, 2012
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Hello,

I've adjusted the efficiency chart with 50% and 10% values for my upcoming reviews.
Full log has been replaced by 10% as the calculation was almost the same. 50% calculations returns, as expected, higher values for flat regulated flashlights.

First review featuring the new double calculation can be seen here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...MecArmy-PT18-(3x-XP-G2-1x-18650-Rechargeable)
If I find spare time to re-calculate all the lights I've posted on this review, I'll update. If don't, you will see such calcs in upcoming AAA reviews.
Thanks!
 

jon_slider

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Mar 31, 2015
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5,172
Maratac AAA Copper REV3 has PWN (old batch), Lumintop Worm Cu has NOT PWM (lastest batch).
Thanks! The PWM Maratac shows longer runtime, more lumens, and more efficiency than the NoPWM Worm

I suspect the new NoPWM Maratac would score lower in efficiency than the PWM version. If you ever get a chance to test a NoPWM Maratac, I will be curious to see if it matches the NoPWM Worm.

I note also that the Manker E01 is a NoPWM light, and its efficiency is similar to the NoPWM Worm.

which suggests that the lights with higher efficiency scores, use PWM.. Is that accurate?
 
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markr6

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Jul 16, 2012
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I have one of these sitting in my mailbox! Can't wait to try it out. I'm a sucker for inexpensive Nichia lights.
 

markr6

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I have one of these sitting in my mailbox! Can't wait to try it out. I'm a sucker for inexpensive Nichia lights.

Got it. Man, this baby is WARM! Makes my L11C 219B look like a CW. Not bad, but just not my preference. 4500-5000 is where I want to be.

Not a bad light. It was a $11 impulse buy, but I should have just paid up and got the D25AAA. Cycling thru that strobe is a big PITA.

Edit: after using this more, I'm really liking it...everything about it! This may actually turn me on to more warm lights. I just compared it to my Fenix E05...I had to try really hard not to just throw that one into the trash, because that's what it is, cool blue trash.
 
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jon_slider

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Mar 31, 2015
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5,172
Has the Manker E01 changed any since this review or is it still a light not worth having?

I thought the one not worth having was the present Astrolux version
the Manker I thought were still good
the issues on the Astrolux include next mode memory (weird)
the Manker has no memory (good)

conclusion, buy the Manker, do not buy the Astrolux :)
 

markr6

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Too bad they're not on amazon anymore. Going Gear has them for a few $$ more.
 

sbslider

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Jan 8, 2017
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287
I bought a purple one a month or two ago. It is a great bedstand light, I love the light beam color and the firefly mode. What I don't love is that the electronics are not attached well to the heat sink, and the heat sink was not anchored in to the bezel (right word?). I took mine apart today and applied some silicone to the electronics and heat sink to get it to stay together (hopefully). It has been a bit wonky of late and I think this will fix that problem.

I got 200 hours out of mine on firefly mode using an eneloop. It was barely usable at the end of this time, but definitely still producing light. I believe I would get more using an alkaline, as they have more capacity. But I also believe the E01 is not regulated, so the light will be brighter (and draw more current) from an alkaline running at 1.5V than an eneloop running at 1.3V. Maybe another test in the works when I get my light back together . . .
 
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this_is_nascar

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Mar 29, 2002
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Gloucester, New Jersey
I bought a purple one a month or two ago. It is a great bedstand light, I love the light beam color and the firefly mode. What I don't love is that the electronics are not attached well to the heat sink, and the heat sink was not anchored in to the bezel (right word?). I took mine apart today and applied some silicone to the electronics and heat sink to get it to stay together (hopefully). It has been a bit wonky of late and I think this will fix that problem.

I got 200 hours out of mine on firefly mode using an eneloop. It was barely usable at the end of this time, but definitely still producing light. I believe I would get more using an alkaline, as they have more capacity. But I also believe the E01 is not regulated, so the light will be brighter (and draw more current) from an alkaline running at 1.5V than an eneloop running at 1.3V. Maybe another test in the works when I get my light back together . . .
I just finished metering my Manker E01 and will be posting the results in the next day or two. It was a test in Med mode, as my goal is to test all my multi level 1xAAA lights in medium to compare to my Fenix E01. I used Energizer Ultimate Lithium cells in all the tests as that's what I use in my EDC lights.
 

sbslider

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Messages
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I just finished metering my Manker E01 and will be posting the results in the next day or two. It was a test in Med mode, as my goal is to test all my multi level 1xAAA lights in medium to compare to my Fenix E01. I used Energizer Ultimate Lithium cells in all the tests as that's what I use in my EDC lights.
I assume you are talking about this graph:

So, the sole purpose of this series of tests was to take all my 1xAAA lights with a similar output to my Fenix E01 and see if technology has advanced far enough to surpass the runtime vs brightness advantage that's always been in favor of the E01. As I've stated dozens of times over my time here on CPF, the three biggest advantages of the Fenix E01 over other lights of that period (for me) were 1) it's ability to fire on a nearly depleted cell, 2) the constant output runtime and 3) it's ability to take any abuse you can through at it.

I find the results interesting, but it should be noted, that the E01 used was an original, when they 1st came out. I thought I've read that Fenix has since upped the brightness and lessened the runtime or something along those lines.


1-AAA_zpssljocves.jpg


2-AAA_zpsfl2ngvrn.jpg
I found that data very useful, thank you for generating it and sharing. I took the time to characterize my Manker E01 in the only way I can, which is to measure the voltage and current into the driver with a calibrated power supply. I don't have a light meter, so I use the power supply to tell me if/how the light attempts to regulate. The data I gathered for medium mode for simulated battery voltage of 1.7V down to 1.01V was that the power into the driver is very constant. From this I conclude the light output is also constant. Two example data points are for 1.7V input, the current is .0.56A, so the total power is 0.095W; for 1.01V input, the current is 0.098A, so the total power input is 0.099W, or only 4% different than the 1.7V input. Somewhere below 1.01V the light likely comes out of regulation and the output falls of quickly as your graphs show. The driver puts out a tiny bit of light with 0.85V input, and is out when the input drops to 0.8V.

What was more interesting was the behavior on Low and High mode. In low mode, the current into the driver roughly follows the voltage into the driver. That is, for 1.7V in, the current is .007A, so the total power input is 0.012W. For 1.01V input, the current is 0.003A, so the total power input is 0.003W. No regulation going on here, the light dims as the battery voltage decreases.

High mode is even stranger. From 1.7V to 1.5V input, the light appears well regulated. But between 1.5 and 1.4V. the input current jumps by 30%. As the voltage continues to go down the current goes up for a bit, then at 1.2V start decreasing. It makes me think this light is well suited for a lithium iron battery on high, but not so much an alkaline or even Nimh rechargable.
 
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