[Review] ULTRATAC K18 (XP-G2 S2, 1x AAA / 1x 10440)

Capolini

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When my Olight i3S CU gets here I am comparing it to my K18 SS w/ Efest IMR 10440.

From a visual perspective my Olight i3E on Efest 10440 was a bit brighter than my K18 SS.:naughty:

Nice thing[besides the side switch] about the K18 SS is that I can run it on max longer w/ out worry of an ill advised battery that is against recommendation for my Olights!
 
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LetThereBeLight!

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New Preon, Tool Ti, Ti5T, K18 SS : A layman's review

Fantastic review! But unless I skipped over it, I didn't locate an answer to which is brighter on a 10440.
 

jon_slider

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Looks like both the Ultratac K18 and the Maratac offer the same diffuser, and use the same reflector with ring around the LED as the Lumintop Tool and Worm

Left to right, Maratac, Tool, Worm, and the diffuser that came with my Maratac
IMG_1958.PNG


my guess is Lumintop is making all of them, and the Prometheus Beta as well.
 
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kreisl

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there is little doubt that the diffuser comes from the same source, maybe an independent supplier who is also on Aliexpress, Alibaba, Taobao with 1000pcs MOQ. but from what i know, Ultratac and Lumintop are friendlies yet competing companies on the AAA flashlight market. As the UPz review states in the first paragraph, workers now at Ultratac were former workers at Lumintop, Olight, and Fenix, and gathered to start their own venture. Check out the Ultratac website, typical for a startup company, only few yet original products like the K18.

Lumintop, DS Prometheus, Maratac, et al. that's an entirely different story which i won't go into. Most of the Chinese flashlight makers are glad to do biz cooperations in form of OEM and ODM contracts. And often the cooperations are so obvious that one doesn't need to ask questions.

Doesn't matter anyway whose doing coop with whom.

i got an Ultratac.

now i want a Maratac.

no matter what.

:paypal:
 

jon_slider

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Doesn't matter anyway whose doing coop with whom.
I agree completely. And each product has a unique feature set that may appeal to different segments.

imo the Maratac has some of the nicest knurling Ive seen, and to me the form factor is very appealing. The latest model no longer has PWM, which is important to me. I prioritize N219 LEDs, which Maratac does not offer, but I lego a ReyLight head.

the K18 also has a number of great features, including the switch and LiIon compatibility. Fortunately for me, the PWM removes it from temptation.

You seem particularly interested in Titanium, and Maratac offers a very nice version, although, being a twisty, I suspect its threads will not be as smooth as a Copper or Brass version.. imo, titanium is a better match for a clicky light.

fwiw, the Titanium Tool will not Lego with the Titanium Maratac, whereas the copper versions do play lego well together.

Thank you for sharing your broad experience.
 

Capolini

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I checked out their website.

HOW CAN YOU SELL A PRODUCT W/OUT ANY SPECS. OR DETAILS?!!!:shakehead

EXAMPLE: T21 AND T15,,Especially T21 which has NOTHING,Zero INFO.,,,,,,,,T15 just states lumens and nothing else about the light!
 

shk

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I checked out their website.

HOW CAN YOU SELL A PRODUCT W/OUT ANY SPECS. OR DETAILS?!!!:shakehead

EXAMPLE: T21 AND T15,,Especially T21 which has NOTHING,Zero INFO.,,,,,,,,T15 just states lumens and nothing else about the light!

so far i know, that those models are still not available in the market
 

kreisl

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I'm so selfish, i got now 3 of the K18SS for myself, one on my keychain (the finish is holding up extremely well, still brilliantly shiny!), one spare copy in mint condition for my pelican case collection, and another mint one gifted from the Forol Edition. Some retailers like amazon also sell the official K18 accessories like the diffuser (GITD!), extra pocket clip, 10440 battery, and USB charging module. I like the stuff, sharing is fun!!

The charging module is small, made out of SS, and clearly states "3.7V Li-Ion Battery Charger", so it is not for NiMH/Eneloop AAA batteries:

28555740726_a77564e85d_o.jpg


Needless to say, for the charging one needs to substitute the module for the K18 flashlight head duh. The contact disc of the module has a raised plus pole for better connection with flat-head 10440's like some protected 10440's and two or what brass retainer rings for the negative pole. The contact disc is labeled with 'Ultratac' i see. Oh and the 10440 battery has got a blue tube and comes shipped in a clear shrink-wrap to keep it fresh i guess?

27971184034_114395667c_o.jpg


The battery has protruding tip, button top, like any other AAA battery. The 10440 is an unprotected 10440:

28588485075_0e78e91144_o.jpg


The label on the battery is "+ ICR10440 3.7V 350mAh -", with no marking of manufacturer or brand. The nominal capacity is 350mAh, the nominal voltage is 3.7V, we'll see about that:

28304348640_f32504da6a_o.jpg


I used my new Quick Charge 3.0 USB wall charger, the BlitzWolf BW-S7, to power the charging module through a short thick USB charging cable (not a USB data cable!). The USB doctor displayed an initial current of up to "0.33A" delivered by the QC3.0 wall charger. The USB doctor is super cheap **** and the displayed values (current, capacity) aren't exact, precise, accurate or whatever but we get the idea. The charging module draws about ~0.3A current and probably also charges with ~0.3A during the CC-phase. That's a charge rate of about 1C, good good:

28304409910_609f2ec508_o.jpg


For this test, the battery had offline a resting voltage of 3.091V (=totally depleted energy). The LED of the charging module turned green after 75min; depending on how early (SOC) you recharge the battery, your charging time will be less than that, maybe 60-70mins! After taking the battery out, i measured 4.153V, which looks like conservative safe charging. The USB doctor displayed "321mAh" as charged capacity (Don't trust this value!).

28304351200_accede0717_o.jpg


Since i didn't trust the USB doctor, i also tested the battery capacity more accurately at another occasion with MC3000 (TERMINATION 0.03A, -0.35A, CUT VOLT 2.80V) logging directly to DEX. Discharging with 350mA is a discharge rate of about -1C. At that rate the average voltage was measured to be 3.6V, and capacity 324mAh, which is 26mAh lower than the nominal capacity:

28304343510_ddb883bd76_o.png


I also tried to measure the current draw of the K18SS High-mode on this unprotected 10440 battery at fully charged state; with my DMM-in-series measurement technique i got ~"1.05A", so the actual current draw should be higher because of the internal resistance of my DMM. Maybe i should have tested the battery with -1.05A in the MC3000; in any case another discharge test at a higher rate (TERMINATION 0.03A, -1.30A, CUT VOLT 2.80V) returned 203mAh. If we take 325mAh as the nominal capacity, then discharging with 1300mA would equal a discharge rate of about -4C. That's imho a bit high for an ordinary Li-Ion cell, no wonder why we got 203mAh capacity only:

27972594143_d1253ccb46_o.png


On a rainy day i'll retest the battery at -0.2C (= -0.07A) to see if i get anywhere near the 350mAh specification.
Not looking forward to it yawn, my hobby is so boring. :faint:
My old cell results were: 321mAh 3.683V 1.186Wh 04:35:57.
My new cell results are: TBD.
 
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Dobtruckers

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I purchased a K18 in brass and it worked great for a week and I was going to buy more. Then I charged the battery and when I went to put it back together, as soon as the tail section touched the body the light lit up. I thought maybe it was a mechanical switching function until I screwed it together and no matter how I worked the switch I couldn't get the light to turn off. Tried different batteries (Efast 10440, ReCyclo AAA) to no avail. Tried contacting UltraTac thru their website three times with no reply. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
 

defbear

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I bought one on Amazon. It arrived DOA. Battery unwrapped. Obviously sold a second time. Cheaply made light.
 

akoposilester

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I purchased a K18 in brass and it worked great for a week and I was going to buy more. Then I charged the battery and when I went to put it back together, as soon as the tail section touched the body the light lit up. I thought maybe it was a mechanical switching function until I screwed it together and no matter how I worked the switch I couldn't get the light to turn off. Tried different batteries (Efast 10440, ReCyclo AAA) to no avail. Tried contacting UltraTac thru their website three times with no reply. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks


mine is also DOA. 2 of them actually.
lighted for a minute then gone.
i also emailed, send message on facebook but they didnt reply.
last ultratac for me.
 

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