Sold/Expired SALE: JM-PhD-D1 PWM Hotwire Regulator BATCH 2

[Conte]

6x Nimh would give him like 7.5v under load with a vbulb of 9.6v.
80% of 9.6 is 7.68. All his Levels are above vbatt, if this is true then his levels will do nothing, he'll have the same output at all settings.
10xNimh might make more sense cutting off at 0.66v ?

I was just wondering cause 80/92/100 is really tight. You'd see very little diff at 92 and not much at 80% unless his vbatt is considerably higher than his vbulb, I'm wondering if he knows that.

 

[double0thirteen]

THose numbers seem odd to me, what batteries are you running ?

6x NiMH maybe. 1.1V each at warning?

Hi guys, thinking of running on 2 protected li-ions, maybe I miss understood what Vlow means. Not trying to be clever but I'm trying to build a versatile switch for Incan/LED Mag to regulate the voltage at 9.6V max. Appreciate if you can enlighten me

 

[double0thirteen]

6x Nimh would give him like 7.5v under load with a vbulb of 9.6v.
80% of 9.6 is 7.68. All his Levels are above vbatt, if this is true then his levels will do nothing, he'll have the same output at all settings.
10xNimh might make more sense cutting off at 0.66v ?

I was just wondering cause 80/92/100 is really tight. You'd see very little diff at 92 and not much at 80% unless his vbatt is considerably higher than his vbulb, I'm wondering if he knows that.

Hi Conte, makes sense that does.
How would you configure the regs to save the 9.6V-13V bulbs from flashing and also be safe for close to similar LED drop-ins?
Or maybe just build a different switches for Incan bulbs and another for the drop-ins?

 

[Conte]

Oh ok, In that case yeah, your numbers are jacked up.

Your Vlow is good, it'll cut off at 3.3v a cell.

The vbulb is the target voltage that the regulator is going to try and run the bulb at.
In this case you've selected 9.6v. So the regulator is going to try and feed the bulb with that voltage, BUT, you are only giving it 8.4 - 7.2v to work with.

So what will happen, is the regulator is going to run at 100% the whole time. It will have nothing to regulate since the vbulb is higher than the Vbatt.
What will happen is the regulator will run wide open letting full battery voltage thru'.

But it gets worse. The Levels are directly proportional to what you set the vbulb to.
So at a 9.6v vbulb, the regulator will determine the voltage of the 80% level to be 7.68v. Assume your voltage will sag to that or less under load, you will perceive no change in output. All your levels will appear the same. And of course, the 92% level will give you exactly the same output as the the 100% mode.

IF you tell me what bulb you are running, I can recommend some settings to go with 2x lions.
Also, how much output do you want to see on the other levels ? Like, do you want a noticable difference ? Low-mid-high ?
Or do you just want them to take the bulb out of overdrive and run it at its stock voltage.

For 2xlions, in a roughly matching voltage bulb, I like 64/35/100. This give the same results as the classic AW incan driver.
I pick the medium level first, cause this regulator has no memory and always starts on the first level. I like my light to always start in medium mode since it's what I use the most often.

 

[double0thirteen]

Will adding another cell solve it? 2 cells for LED and 3 Cells for Incan. Looking at those Carley's to run but at least I have an idea on what I'll be needing.
By all means, let me know some of your settings. Maybe I can learn something from it, too.

As I understand the regs can be tweaked at a later stage?

 

[Conte]

They can, you can adjust the Vbulb at any time using a couple multi meters and some math. I have an excel spreadsheet auto calc for it.

The vlow is tricky but you can also set it. For a 3 Li-ion cell rig, you'll want a Vlow of 9-9.6v.

It can also be reprogrammed any time, if you have the USB adapter and the software.

What bulb do you want to use for incan ? With what batteries ?

Also, you can't really use this for LED. You can't run dropins that have drivers. You also can't run low voltage LEDS direct.
The PWM output of this is raw and designed to directly run the load. It doesn't actually turn down the voltage as much as it turns off power to the bulb real quick before it blows. It's a long story.

To put it short, if you piggy backed an LED driver, it would think you were turning on and off the light real quickly and probably jsut cycle thru' the modes if not screw up the MCU.

About the only LED you can run off this unit is the MT-G2, direct drive, off a couple of Li-ions. Actually, I have an MT-G2 build using this as a driver and it's a damn good MT-G2 driver.

In short, it's designed to run Incan Bulbs only, and just happens to work with the MT-G2 cause it will support the higher voltage.

 

[double0thirteen]

Thanks Conte, You just made my choices easier.

MT-G2 direct drive it is then, can it still run with multi-modes?

What I'm looking for the Incan, is the flexibility of reconfiguring the switches for different bulb and batteries combination will make it all fun giving different setups. Would you mind to share the spreadsheet with me?

 

[Conte]

OK, for the incan, I recommend a Mag 3D. You can do a tail cap mod to put in 3x IMR26650. It'll slam a lot of the common bulbs.
The magic is running 3 cells on bulb that are rated for 2 cells. Then the bulb will run full bore right down to the last mAH.

My Settings for the 3D Incan are:

Operation Mode: Multi-Level
Vbulb: 7.5v (Good starting point for most 2 cell hotwire bulbs)
Vlow: 9.6v
Level-1: 15 (69%)
Level-2: 7 (47%)
Level-3: 32 (100%)
SoftRamp: Yes
Softstart: Slow
Low Volt Warning: Pulsing
Low volt shutdown: Undervolt: 92% (For a final shutdown of 2.95v/cell)
Vlow Latch: Enable (or pick your preference)
Over Temp trigger: 60C Dimming to 4 (25%)
Over Temp Shutdown: Yes, 10 seconds:
Response: 1/4 second

2cell Bulb Vbulbs:
The 5761: 7.5v
WA1160: 7.0v
WA1111:8v
FM 6.6v Axial: 8v
FM 4v Axial: 4.85v
FM 1794 (if it fits): 7.5v
Those are the ones I remember off the top of my head that I've played with recently.

Build Thread here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?388167-Ultimag-Updated-JM-PH-D1-Build

 

[Conte]

For the MT-G2, yes you can still use the modes, just as the LED is more responsive, you need to use very different % levels.

Operation Mode: Multi-Level
Vbulb: USER Adjust until 3.1 to 3.4a at tailcap.
Vlow: 6.4v for 2 IMR cells.
Level-1: 9 (53%, ~800mah)
Level-2: 1 (18% ~150mah, this is as low as the programming allows)
Level-3: 32 (100%. ~3.1 to 3.4a tested at the tailcap)
SoftRamp: Yes it's fun with LED
Softstart: 3 (Fast)
Low Volt Warning: Pulsehi 2 pulselow 4
Low volt shutdown: Undervolt: 94%
VLOW_Latch: Enable
Over Temp trigger: 108900. Dimming to 4(25%) (50c, when the MCU feels 50c the mag head will be very hot.)
Over Temp Shutdown: Yes:2440 (10 Seconds)
Response:61 (1/4 second)

Don't worry about some of the funny numbers, they are program codes, Jimmy understands.

So you build this the same way you build the incan version but you just run the output wires to whatever LED Heatsink assembly you have arranged.

YOu need an AMP meter to calibrate it, cause you have to measure the current at the tailcap and adjust the Vbulb pot until you read ~3a. I set mine to 3.14a, but when I upgraded the leads on my multimeter I found out I was actually running 3.4a.
If you do not calibrate, well, the LED can suck up to 5a. Which is awesome if you have good enough cooling.

You would build this in a 2D mag, and I run mine of a pair of 26650 IMR cells.


PS: you would have to PM me your email so I can send you the Auto Calc file.

 

[JimmyM]

WOW. I go to sleep and look what you guys get up to.
Carry on.

 

[double0thirteen]

WOW. I go to sleep and look what you guys get up to.
Carry on.

Jimmy,
If you don't mind, please hold on to the configuring the Regs till I finally decide on the settings.

Thanks!

 

[JimmyM]

Jimmy,
If you don't mind, please hold on to the configuring the Regs till I finally decide on the settings.

Thanks!

No Problem. They haven't shipped so take your time.

 

[double0thirteen]

OK, for the incan, I recommend a Mag 3D. You can do a tail cap mod to put in 3x IMR26650. It'll slam a lot of the common bulbs.
The magic is running 3 cells on bulb that are rated for 2 cells. Then the bulb will run full bore right down to the last mAH.

My Settings for the 3D Incan are:

Operation Mode: Multi-Level
Vbulb: 7.5v (Good starting point for most 2 cell hotwire bulbs)
Vlow: 9.6v
Level-1: 15 (69%)
Level-2: 7 (47%)
Level-3: 32 (100%)
SoftRamp: Yes
Softstart: Slow
Low Volt Warning: Pulsing
Low volt shutdown: Undervolt: 92% (For a final shutdown of 2.95v/cell)
Vlow Latch: Enable (or pick your preference)
Over Temp trigger: 60C Dimming to 4 (25%)
Over Temp Shutdown: Yes, 10 seconds:
Response: 1/4 second

2cell Bulb Vbulbs:
The 5761: 7.5v
WA1160: 7.0v
WA1111:8v
FM 6.6v Axial: 8v
FM 4v Axial: 4.85v
FM 1794 (if it fits): 7.5v
Those are the ones I remember off the top of my head that I've played with recently.

Build Thread here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?388167-Ultimag-Updated-JM-PH-D1-Build

Hi Conte, as a second option what base settings would you recommend for a play a modified bulb like the 14.4V from FM? Maybe running on 3 cells?

 

[Conte]

3 cells is only 12 ish volts and will sag to 11 ish under heavy load. You'd want 4 cells to run that bulb.

In which case what I have is an extension.
I built a 3D for running most bulbs, but got a 1 cell extension for when I want more voltage.

Let me go look something up.

 

[Conte]

Yeah, it's Def a 4 cell bulb. Even says so on Fivemega's listing.

Lux's data suggests that you can crank it up to 16.4v.
I believe it's the same bulb as the carley43. You might want to confirm that with Mr. Mega.

Get used to referring to this thread :
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/179748

It lists a bunch of bulb test data the tells you how hard you can push them.

In order for this regulator to work as intended, you need more battery voltage than the bulbs rating.
Even with the battery voltage matching the bulb voltage you only really gain softstart and multi levels but don't get the MOJO.

 

[double0thirteen]

In order for this regulator to work as intended, you need more battery voltage than the bulbs rating.
Even with the battery voltage matching the bulb voltage you only really gain softstart and multi levels but don't get the MOJO.

Let me see if I get this right.
To run within the bulbs limits with 4 cells, regulated at 14.4V, VLow set at 12.8V, correct?
Overdriving it to 16.4V would need 5 cells, regulated to output <16.4V, VLow set at 16V?

 

[Conte]

With 4 cells I would still set the vbulb higher than 14.4.
But yes, with that bulb you will get better results with 5 or 6 cells.

I would still try and dial it vbulb to about 16.4 to get as much over drive as you can as long as the battery will sustain it. Just as the battery runs down, so will the brightness, so it will pretty much run as it normally will with a matching battery set, but the regulator will prevent install flash with fresh cells. You will be able to get a good taste of what that bulb will do, and can always add an extension to after to add another cell.

I would set 4 cell vlow to 12-12.6v,
And the 5 cell to 15-16 v.
This will give you 3-3.2V per cell shutdown.

 

[JimmyM]

With 4 cells I would still set the vbulb higher than 14.4.
But yes, with that bulb you will get better results with 5 or 6 cells.

I would still try and dial it vbulb to about 16.4 to get as much over drive as you can as long as the battery will sustain it. Just as the battery runs down, so will the brightness, so it will pretty much run as it normally will with a matching battery set, but the regulator will prevent install flash with fresh cells. You will be able to get a good taste of what that bulb will do, and can always add an extension to after to add another cell.

I would set 4 cell vlow to 12-12.6v,
And the 5 cell to 15-16 v.
This will give you 3-3.2V per cell shutdown.

Once the pack's loaded voltage is above Vbulb, you're just adding run time. The bulb doesn't care if you're using 4 or 7 cells. It'll just run longer.

 

[double0thirteen]

Ok Guys, what do you think of the setup below.
#1
Incan 3 Cell Li-ion
Operation Mode: Multi-Level
Vbulb: 7.5v
Vlow: 9.6v
Level-1: 15 (69%)
Level-2: 7 (47%)
Level-3: 32 (100%)
SoftRamp: Yes
Softstart: Slow
Low Volt Warning: Pulsing
Low volt shutdown: Undervolt: 92% (For a final shutdown of 2.95v/cell)
Vlow Latch: Enable
Over Temp trigger: 60C Dimming to 4 (25%)
Over Temp Shutdown: Yes, 10 seconds:
Response: 1/4 second

#2
Incan 5 Cell Li-ion
Operation Mode: Multi-Level
Vbulb: 16.4v
Vlow: 16.4v
Level-1: 15 (69%)
Level-2: 7 (47%)
Level-3: 32 (100%)
SoftRamp: Yes
Softstart: Slow
Low Volt Warning: Pulsing
Low volt shutdown: Undervolt: 92% (For a final shutdown of 2.95v/cell)
Vlow Latch: Enable
Over Temp trigger: 60C Dimming to 4 (25%)
Over Temp Shutdown: Yes, 10 seconds:
Response: 1/4 second

# 3 MT-G2
Operation Mode: Multi-Level
Vbulb: USER Adjust until 3.1 to 3.4a at tailcap.
Vlow: 6.4v for 2 IMR cells.
Level-1: 9 (53%, ~800mah)
Level-2: 1 (18% ~150mah, this is as low as the programming allows)
Level-3: 32 (100%. ~3.1 to 3.4a tested at the tailcap)
SoftRamp: Yes it's fun with LED
Softstart: 3 (Fast)
Low Volt Warning: Pulsehi 2 pulselow 4
Low volt shutdown: Undervolt: 94%
VLOW_Latch: Enable
Over Temp trigger: 108900. Dimming to 4(25%)
Over Temp Shutdown: Yes:2440 (10 Seconds)
Response:61 (1/4 second)

 

[Conte]

Looks good to me.

I'll change one thing.
# 2 vlow to 16.4v. That's just over 3.2v a cell and will signal you before you loose brightness.

Also, the mt-g2 vbulb you will have to set yourself based on a tail reading cause I don't think Jimmy can set that for you.