Sold/Expired SALE: JM-PhD-D1 PWM Hotwire Regulator

[JimmyM]

Hi Jimmy

Sounds good - once incorporated the failsafe can no doubt be tweaked if necessary after Lux's testing.

That brings me to the next point ? Is the programmer the same as used by AlanB ? AVR I think. ATAVRISP2-ND ? is this the right model number so I can order one from Digikey ?

Cheers
Pete

Alan uses one he built from a kit. I use the AVRISP2 that I bought from Digikey. It works really well. Alan's kit has the added advantage, however, of being able to power the chip being programmed. The AVRISP2 cannot. So you have to power the regulator to be able to program it.

 

[Alan B]

Alan uses one he built from a kit. I use the AVRISP2 that I bought from Digikey. It works really well. Alan's kit has the added advantage, however, of being able to power the chip being programmed. The AVRISP2 cannot. So you have to power the regulator to be able to program it.

I am also using the AVR ISP MkII lately.

I found a mod to make the AVR ISP MkII be able to power the micro, but I have not installed it. The regulator board needs to be powered to program it. Adding a switch and two wires to the AVR ISP MkII will allow this.

 

[JimmyM]

I am also using the AVR ISP MkII lately.

I found a mod to make the AVR ISP MkII be able to power the micro, but I have not installed it. The regulator board needs to be powered to program it. Adding a switch and two wires to the AVR ISP MkII will allow this.

Do you have a link? I don't want to hijack my own thread with this, but the link would be handy.
I figure that if I power the regulator externally it functionally tests the onboard regulator at the same time as programming.

 

[Alan B]

Do you have a link? I don't want to hijack my own thread with this, but the link would be handy.
I figure that if I power the regulator externally it functionally tests the onboard regulator at the same time as programming.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4998924_provide-v-power-target-board.html

 

[JimmyM]

http://www.ehow.com/how_4998924_provide-v-power-target-board.html

Oh. Simple. Thanks.

 

[JimmyM]

Sorry Dude, My work ( and play) has increased so much in the last 6 months, I barley have time to think...just been away for two+ weeks, half the trip I manned a Frickin big gas installation, Quite literally on my own...with a even Fricking bigger Huge Drilling Rig poking through the middle of mine.... (and the other half Offshore by Day, and out on the town each night )... So Seriously Hectic :twothumbs But Good :devil:

Busy busy guy.
Well, there's plenty to go around. So just post when you're ready to order.

 

[petrev]

Hi Jim and Alan

Just went through all the research while you 2 were posting this that Alan just answered - I think ?

I was about to ask if the regulator can be powered from 5V as, if that is the case, then it would be simple to just wire to the 5V USB-In but slightly more complex if 3V is required !

Seems like you are saying 5V is fine.
Thanks for the 5V How-to link. I was just going to work it out with a meter but this makes life much easier.:thumbsup:

This is the link if anyone needs a 3V/5V version.
http://www.webx.dk/avrisp-mk2-modding/index.htm
if you can work out what those capacitor looking things are and presumably it's an 88547 ? ? ? Alan ?

Cheers
Pete

 

[Alan B]

Hi Jim and Alan

Just went through all the research while you 2 were posting this that Alan just answered - I think ?

I was about to ask if the regulator can be powered from 5V as, if that is the case, then it would be simple to just wire to the 5V USB-In but slightly more complex if 3V is required !

Seems like you are saying 5V is fine.
Thanks for the 5V How-to link. I was just going to work it out with a meter but this makes life much easier.:thumbsup:

This is the link if anyone needs a 3V/5V version.
http://www.webx.dk/avrisp-mk2-modding/index.htm
if you can work out what those capacitor looking things are and presumably it's an 88547 ? ? ? Alan ?

Cheers
Pete

The LM317T is a programmable voltage regulator. But 5V is okay for our all our present units. We need 5V to drive the FET on these.

 

[petrev]

The LM317T is a programmable voltage regulator. But 5V is okay for our all our present units. We need 5V to drive the FET on these.

:thumbsup:

Nice

Cheers
Pete

 

[Roland]

I'm going to incorporate a bit of code to shut down the light if the voltage drops to a percentage of the Vlow set point. When this point is reached, the light has to be power cycled to get out of that mode. If you power cycle with dead batteries, the light will try to start, then just shutdown again as soon as the voltage drops.

I'm thinking of 87.5% (just because I can multiply by 7 then divide easily by 8).
That works out to...
Vlow = 1.1V/cell, Vshutdown = 0.963V/cell
Vlow = 3.0V/cell, Vshutdown = 2.63V/cell

Does that sound OK?

It does not sound good to me. Consider the following:

A V-low is set to set a minimum voltage to protect batteries. Now one has to set V-low 12% higher to obtain the same protection. Then what is V-low for? Consider the following:

Why not set a maximum run time untill shut-down when below V-low. Like the flashlight runs for 2 minutes below V-low and then shuts down. If you turn it back on it comes on alternating and again shuts down after 2 minutes (because batteries are still below v-low.)

This makes shure:
- If you leave the flashlight unattended for a moment it does not run down to 12% beleow V-low.
- you always have a reserve if you have an emergency and want risk hurting your batteries.
- you never think the light is broke if you put in batteries that are below v-low.

 

[JimmyM]

It does not sound good to me. Consider the following:

A V-low is set to set a minimum voltage to protect batteries. Now one has to set V-low 12% higher to obtain the same protection. Then what is V-low for? Consider the following:

Why not set a maximum run time untill shut-down when below V-low. Like the flashlight runs for 2 minutes below V-low and then shuts down. If you turn it back on it comes on alternating and again shuts down after 2 minutes (because batteries are still below v-low.)

This makes shure:
- If you leave the flashlight unattended for a moment it does not run down to 12% beleow V-low.
- you always have a reserve if you have an emergency and want risk hurting your batteries.
- you never think the light is broke if you put in batteries that are below v-low.

This is a good discussion but doesn't belong in the sales thread.
Let's take it over to the Feeler thread. Here

 

[KSC001]

I'll take:
2 drivers
#1 Set voltage 27.2V, low volt: 26.4V
#2 Set voltage 18.5V, low volt: 16.5V
Total: $87
Paypal sent.

 

[CancerLad]

I got my order. The order arrived at the mail room last week, and I finally had them find it this week, and I finally got around to posting today. They look beauuuuuutiful. Now I have to get some bulbs and some enloops. Many thanks Jimmy.

 

[littlejohnle]

Jimmy M,
Can you PM me the price of 1 unit shipped to Sydney Australia.

 

[Roland]

Jimmy M,
Can you PM me the price of 1 unit shipped to Sydney Australia.

Do you also have a quote for shipping of one unit to The Netherlands (europe).

 

[JimmyM]

Do you also have a quote for shipping of one unit to The Netherlands (europe).

First Class Mail International is covered by the standard $7 shipping.

 

[JimmyM]

Jimmy M,
Can you PM me the price of 1 unit shipped to Sydney Australia.

First Class Mail International is covered by standard $7 shipping.

 

[littlejohnle]

I'll take:
1 drivers
#1 Set voltage 7.2V, low volt: 6.0V


Total: $40 + International shipping $7 = $47.

 

[JimmyM]

littlejohnle, KSC001, petrev, Pertinax Shipped 5/28/09

 

[Roland]

I will start out with one so for:
one unit 40+7 int shipping= $47

Set voltage 7.2V, cutoff voltage 6.6V