SF 6P - multi-mode P60 drop-in & McClicky upgrade?

[Bambuino]

Been doing some reading and am probably asking on an oft trod topic...upgrading a Surefire 6P.

Would the McClicky Z41 insert offer mode switching of an appropriate P60 drop-in, like the Lumens Factory D26? If so, then...

Wanting to move over to 16650s from CR123 primaries, what would performance of the D26 3.6-13V module be like when running 16650s? I ask for the possibility that sometime down road I may need to run 123s in a pinch.

There is the D26 2.7-4.5V module, but this, I believe, would constrain me to using the 16650s exclusively, which I am on the fence about.

TIA, M.

 

[chillinn]

There is the D26 2.7-4.5V module, but this, I believe, would constrain me to using the 16650s exclusively, which I am on the fence about.

You can still use that module on 1xCR123A along with a dummy spacer, and a single 16340 with the same spacer, as well as a 14500 with a different dummy spacer. You should double check with Mark about the possibility of using two primaries on the D26 2.7-4.5V, as on their best day two CR123A primaries will only give about 5V under load, which is close enough to 4.5V that it may not fry it.

 

[Bambuino]

Thanks chillinn, will follow up with LF on the low volt D26 specs.

edit: Any McClicky fans out there know how that switch does with multi-mode drop-ins? From ON, does the switch cut out on gentle depress, trigger BOD, and count up next level/mode? McClicky says it has moment ON, at least, and is forward latch.

 

[chillinn]

I just got the D26-LED Module, 2.7V-4.5V, 3 Mode w/ Cree XP-L Warm White 90-CRI in a Seraph SP-9 about a month ago that I am very happy with, running with a sleeve on 2xAA. I had only seen Nichias in 3000K before, and now I know in that color temperature Cree XP-L is superior. It really looks incan. I made the mistake of subsequently ordering some incan lamp modules for the SP-9 from Mark, and I now can't stop messing around with it. I've been underdriving an ES-9 on 2x LFP18500 and digging the runtime and warm light. At 30 yards, my underdriven 0.85A ES-9 is brighter than Tad's A3718 1.8A 140Lm lamp in an Elite head, so I guess a lot depends on reflector size and collimation. Mark's lamps have a really high color temperature, almost look like LED, but underdrive them a little, and they look incan again.

FWIW, the forward clicky (I think a McClicky) in the SP-9 deals with modes fine. You select the mode before clicking, but then will have to turn off to change modes again. As far as momentary is concerned, the D26 LED 3 mode has memory, so it stays in whatever mode it was left in, so idk why it is even mentioned on the product page. Momentary works as expected unless working with it quickly, in which case modes advance. The only things I would change about that module is removing the memory, and maybe lower the low mode to 1% or 0.25% instead of 5%.

 

[Bambuino]

The D26 XP-L WW 90 CRI is what I was interested in.

I have 4 SFs that run P60. Got some cheap XM-L2s cheap off big river, and, yeah, overkill at 1000lum. Happy to have them running, but can do with 100 lum for the ones in the house. If can have 100-200 lum at MID on a clicky 6P, that be cool.

Really, my biggest humbug about getting away from SF P60 incans is that no longer do I have the large beam angle where the retaining ring bezel wrench flats are sharp. No LED drop-in that I have used preserves that feature. Eh, that's just my thing.

 

[chillinn]

no longer do I have the large beam angle

Have you looked at KDLITKER dropins? Review here, looks like they're laden with PWM. I would expect the triple LED to be more floody, but so much depends on the TIR optic. Sportac has triple LED P60 dropins also, claimed to be floody, but I don't see prices on the site. That one appears to be single mode, and the link from the front page to dual mode is broken. Optics Planet seems to sell them, and not unreasonably priced. They might all be flame throwers, though, I can't tell. Everyone is into brightest possible, and me too for fun, but for practicality 18-25Lm is all I really need late at night, but the earlier it is, the brighter a light needs to be, the later, the dimmer. Depends if you're searching a drawer or a 20 acre field. I could have sworn Gene had a triple or quad dropin, but I don't see any on his site. No, wait, it was Mark, has triples with Carclo 10507 optics and quads with Carclo 10621 optics, both floody all with XP-L WW 90-CRI available and options for 1 or 3 modes. It always happens to me also that I order something from Mark not realizing there was something else I wanted.

 

[yellow]

As to the McKlicky:
For a multimode insert it makes no difference if the switch is forward or reverse cklicky.

MC Klicky = forward ... Slightly press till ON, release, again shlightly press till ON ... till You arrive at the level "needed" - then FULLY CLICK for ON.
FULLY CLICK again for OFF.
.
Reverse clicky ... FULLY press till CLICK = ON, release, slightly press for OFF and release for next level ON. Repeat till level "needed".
Fully click (and release) for OFF.

It really is more a personal preference thing what switch type is " better"

 

[LogansRun]

Been doing some reading and am probably asking on an oft trod topic...upgrading a Surefire 6P.

Would the McClicky Z41 insert offer mode switching of an appropriate P60 drop-in, like the Lumens Factory D26? If so, then...

Wanting to move over to 16650s from CR123 primaries, what would performance of the D26 3.6-13V module be like when running 16650s? I ask for the possibility that sometime down road I may need to run 123s in a pinch.

There is the D26 2.7-4.5V module, but this, I believe, would constrain me to using the 16650s exclusively, which I am on the fence about.

TIA, M.

If you're looking at Lumens Factory D26 dropin's their site lists runtimes depending on whether you're running 16650's, 2xCR123's or 16340's - see this link as one example: https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/product_detail.php?pid=601. Performance seems to be the same in terms of lumen output and, according to their numbers, runtimes are actually a bit better running 2x123's (primary and rechargeable). Of course, that would depend on the condition of the 123's.

I would think that, once voltage drops below 3.6v, it falls out of regulated output and would think you would just see a gradual drop in output.

I agree that I do like to have the option of using primaries and I do have a few older Nailbender (2.8-6V) and Sportac D26's that handle 2.8-9V so those dropin's give me more options and take a bit longer to drop out of regulation. Although, with protected Li-ion batteries, I wouldn't want to test that lower limit too often.

Good luck with your decision.

 

[g8trwood]

Been looking at the same idea for older 6p lights with early Malkoff drop ins. How are the Malkoff multi mode drop ins and the different tailcap options.