Show your Solarforce

[don.gwapo]

Regular L2 with S7, B6 and DD XM-L 3.5A. .

 

[old4570]

There are some seriously sweet Solarforce setups here!
Old4570, what kind of lumen output are you looking at with that Dual XM-L?


Alex

Limiting factor is the driver : Needs more 7135 chips added [ I think that will increase output ]
ATM Something around 850 to 950 depending on the battery ...

Ive never done Direct Drive before , tempting ! But then no modes ... But in theory , could just about double output if the battery is up for it .

 

[don.gwapo]

Love this set up. Both flat at both ends. .

 

[2100]

 

[CheepSteal]

My first Solarforce! L2 sand with warm drop in. Very nice beam and decent output. I hated the reverse clicky on the original tailcap though, so I replaced it with a spare Surefire G2X clicky tailcap I had. Cheers to Nokoff for the help on choosing this.

 

[mvyrmnd]

Got me a new L2p today, pimped out with Stainless Bezel and Clip, and a S9 tailcap. The Dropin is Kerberos High CRI Triple.

 

[Nokoff]

:thumbsup: ...and so it begins...

My first Solarforce! L2 sand with warm drop in. Very nice beam and decent output. I hated the reverse clicky on the original tailcap though, so I replaced it with a spare Surefire G2X clicky tailcap I had. Cheers to Nokoff for the help on choosing this.

 

[Kevin1322]

Forgive me if it's been asked and answered, but does anybody know how the L2-S6 switch compares to, as far as the pressure it takes to turn on, the L2-S9 switch? Thanks.

 

[LilKevin715]

Forgive me if it's been asked and answered, but does anybody know how the L2-S6 switch compares to, as far as the pressure it takes to turn on, the L2-S9 switch? Thanks.

The L2-S9 requires more pressure to activate than my L2-S6. There is always the possibility of a new switch needing a break-in period, I doubt it though.

 

[Kevin1322]

The L2-S9 requires more pressure to activate than my L2-S6. There is always the possibility of a new switch needing a break-in period, I doubt it though.

That's too bad. I really like the tail standing ability and the ability to handle higher amperage that these switches have, but I like how easy it is to press the regular L2 switches. I have a Solarforce L2P with a L2-S6 switch, A001 head, L2-B4 bezel, running Nailbender's XM-L T6 at 3.1 amps. It makes for a great host/light, but the tail switch is hard enough for me to press that it makes me want to go back to my Eagletac T20C2 Mark II, with the XM-L HO module.

 

[Vortus]

Been looking for a SS L2 to edc with my SS knives for quite a while, finally scored one off of CPF. Thanks CPF. SS SE #12, prob will never be this pretty again.

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff158/Mandurath/SSCombo.jpg

 

[LilKevin715]

I replaced the stock black silicone boot in the clicky with a GITD green one. This allowed me to trim/adjust the inside of the boot nub that comes in contact with the switch. This allows adjustment of how much pressure is required to activate the switch. Before with the stock boot there was a good amount of pressure required. Now I have the boot nub just right and it only takes a light tap in order to activate the switch.

 

[Kevin1322]

I replaced the stock black silicone boot in the clicky with a GITD green one. This allowed me to trim/adjust the inside of the boot nub that comes in contact with the switch. This allows adjustment of how much pressure is required to activate the switch. Before with the stock boot there was a good amount of pressure required. Now I have the boot nub just right and it only takes a light tap in order to activate the switch.

That's a good idea. I've messed with switches like that once before; it would be worth doing again. Thanks.

Edit: That was easy enough, took all of 5 minutes from the time I grabbed tools to finish. Now it feels just like the original L2 switches. Thanks again LilKevin715.

 

[Kevin1322]

The L2-S9 requires more pressure to activate than my L2-S6. There is always the possibility of a new switch needing a break-in period, I doubt it though.

So, do you have a preferance between the two switches? If so, why?

 

[EZO]

Solarforce L2m, SS flat bezel, with 820 lumen XML-T6 3-6 volt drop-in and S9 forward clicky tailcap with the SS tail bezel removed and replaced with O-ring over threads and elsewhere. Love this light!

​

 

[will]

Some Chrome and Desert Ironwood

These are custom Solarforce lights that I have modified....

 

[will]

OR how about some Sand with Zircote or Koa ( from Hawaii )

I did the lanyards too. gotta love skulls with hair....

 

[LilKevin715]

For me personally its a tossup between the L2-S6 and the L2-S9. I guess I'll just list the pros and cons of both.

L2-S6 Pros:
Same diameter as the body of the L2P for a seamless clean look.
Softer switch activation after boot replacement.

Cons:
Occasional thumb soreness from the closely placed crenelations.
Anodizing wearing off on the tip of the crenelations when tailstanding is done frequently.

L2-S9 Pros:
Stainless steel tailstanding bezel can be removed.
SS bezel can take burden of a impact onto hard surfaces.
Spacing of the "crenelations" (not really crenalations as they aren't sharp) virtually eliminates the occasional sore thumb issue.

Cons:
Slightly wider diameter than the L2 body tube (visual aesthetics).
When the SS bezel is removed the threads on the tailcap-side are exposed on the outside
Slightly stiffer switch than the S6.

In the end its a nice tailcap, however everyone has their own personal preferances (gotta love the lego capability). I'm probably gonna put it on a L2X as the outer diameter of the L2X is wider than the L2P; the diameter should match well.

 

[Kevin1322]

Thanks LilKevin715. I would say I am interested in it too because of the spacing between the crenelation.

EZO: Where did you get a 820 lumen XML-T6 3-6 volt drop-in? Who rated it at 820? I've read that with higher output drops (drawing higher amps), that a single CR123 or CRC123 is not a good idea. I take it you haven't had any problems?

 

[EZO]

EZO: Where did you get a 820 lumen XML-T6 3-6 volt drop-in? Who rated it at 820? I've read that with higher output drops (drawing higher amps), that a single CR123 or CRC123 is not a good idea. I take it you haven't had any problems?

I bought the light as a complete package directly from solarforce-sales.com, HERE. (Model number XM-L Led-DIY_XMLS7_16340) Of course, it is Solarforce who rates it at 820 lumens. Whatever it is really cranking OTF I don't quite know but it is quite bright. It has a floody but at the same time very throwy, smooth beam. (This is my first XML and I love it.)

You can buy the drop-in separately. The one that came with my L2m has a really pleasing warmish tint.

I have heard that this battery drop-in combination can be problematic too but I am not entirely clear about the issue and Solarforce apparently feels comfortable offering this set-up. I have had no problems running the light with a 3.6 Volt 880 mAh 16340, although I am considering adding some copper foil for additional heat sinking. The switch I'm using (the S9) can handle up to 3 amps and so far no trouble. The switch that comes with this light, the S7 can handle over 5 amps. My S7 arrived defective and Solarforce has a new one on the way to me, hence the S9 in the meantime.