SkyRC — IFA 2014 — MC3000 charger-analyzer

[joelbnyc]

Re: SkyRC — IFA 2014 / CES 2016 — MC3000 charger-analyzer

Yea me either, but what about the housing. Reinforced pins? I did notice that the display is slightly yellow than the one i originally bought. Mine was blue.

Correction of my post above, apparently the firmware can be an indicator of the improved build quality:

FW 1.10 it is def the "June Version,"

FW greater than 1.10, it is either June or an old version with updated FW. An See kreisl's post #3613 #3.

FW less than 1.10, it is the old version.

Is there any other way to determine whether we have a model with the reinforced posts, short of opening it up?

EDIT, From post #3552, here are ways to determine from just the exterior, whether case is post June 2016 reinforced post model. I think this bears repeating because apparently many vendors are still selling the pre-June 2016 inventory without updated case, and many customers are looking for the post June model

(old model on left, new on right)

1) New Model has shiny Silvery Coating on sliders/rails/metal contacts, and no lube/grease on sliders.

2) Tint of display is less blue (old on left, new on right)- although the model I got has FW 1.03 so old, but the tint doesnt look so blue to me, so maybe this is useless to know unless have both old and new to compare)

3) Recessed Area on bottom for Label Sticker (new case)

 

[terjee]

Re: SkyRC — IFA 2014 / CES 2016 — MC3000 charger-analyzer

But NKON (according to kreisl) has had ONLY the June 2016 version since around July 2016. As suggested, have a look at post 3552.

Around July 8th 2016 to be exact.

I should know, since I got the last with the weak posts. At that time, they were waiting for fresh stock (with improved posts). I should add that they might have been shipping some good units before that as well. I think mine was part of some old inventory, but they were kind enough put it back for sale when I asked when they were expecting more units.

The one with bad posts is in semi-daily use still, after getting an upgraded shell, shipped free of charge from NKON.

 

[MarioJP]

Re: SkyRC — IFA 2014 / CES 2016 — MC3000 charger-analyzer

I also emailed RCJuice which happens to only have 2 left in stock and this is what they said

"Mario,


Though we are the largest SkyRC dealer in the US this is a charger we just started carrying.* We have sold 30 or 40 of them and have not had any issues reported to us thus far.


-John B.


RCJuice Customer Support*

RCJuice.com"

 

[LiteTheWay]

I'm going to bring this to the top in case kreisl is back.

So is this MAC address business an indication of:

- the latest HW build - in which case how is this build different from the one I got from NKON in August 2016 which was then
the latest HW build with all the problematic bits fixed?

- or really an indication of FW?

Mine shows FW 1.10 - I have not updated it but know I can. Mine also shows HW 1.4+. I can't make it show MAC address however.

I know none of this really matters but am interested anyway. So Kreisl ....... ?

 

[Albert_]

I've given up trying to use my PC and Android phone with the MC3000 and will need to rely mainly on it's built-in LCD menus, which aren't too bad to use. I've used much more difficult equipment some of which had no firmware with LCD screen. Configuration was done through pins, dip switches, etc. from pcb's.

In the old days we often would spend from days to weeks, sometimes months trying to setup and configure different types of electronics such as for telco, different types of office equipment, security equipment, equipment for financial institutions, Diebold, IBM, Sperry, etc.. Configuring different types of electronic equipment including those with bioses and firmware use to be fairly limited. Often to re-configure a bios required you pull the bios chip and reprogram it with new code using a bios chip reader/writer. This was true of many early PC that normally ran a CP/M OS and also many of the early DOS and CP/M-86 machines.

Anyway I'm currently trying to salvage 8 x 18650's from an old dell laptop battery pack. Initially the MC3000 wasn't able to recognize each of the 18650's as they were at zero voltage. (note these are really old batteries that have been sitting around in storage for years, so I'm uncertain if these cells are salvageable and will last a while or not) I've had a few 18650's that proved to be un revivable, staying at zero voltage.

Using a USB charger I have been able to bring back some of the 18650s to voltage and capacity that's acceptable for the MC3000 to recognize and start to charge installed 18650's

The MC3000 appears to have a minimum voltage where it's able to begin to charge a Lithium battery. My usb charger doesn't have any voltage readout but remember seeing from my DMM a voltage reading from around ~2 to ~2.5 volts, where the MC3000 would recognize and begin charging. At lower voltages the MC3000 produced and error "Check Voltage". I think this error occurs when a 18650 is under 2 volts?

The USB charger is for a single cell so I'm still trying get the last three 18650s back to an acceptable voltage for charging with the MC3000. Currently the last three cells, one measure around ~10-12 volts, another ~35 volts and the third one around ~70 volts. Neither the USB, MC3000 or an Opus BT C3100 charger will recognize any of the three cells. I'm not certain why there voltages started to read higher. My DMM's seemed to sort of wacky at times when measuring battery current of the dead or zero volt cells. Installing them into the usb charger seems to have waked them up. Leaving them in the usb charger up to several hours brings them back to life with voltages above 2 volts, where I then installed them into the MC3000.

The USB charger potentially takes up to 10+ mins to recognize and start to charge one of the zero volts 18650's. So it just sits there without an leds lit until if finally recognizes the cell and starts to charge it up. Perhaps feeding it some sort of current in order to wake the dead cell up.

With the MC3000 I'm using a standard charging routine for the reawakened 18650's

With some other 18650's pulled from an unused laptop battery pack I used a "refresh" routine instead.

I guess for some users all this isn't anything new, but I thought I would share my experience reviving dead 18650's for others attempting to do the same for the first time.

Specs for the batteries I'm reviving - Samsung ICR18650-22F

(one's revived so far have held a charge ok)

Nominal Specifications ICR18650-22F

3.1 Nominal Capacity 2200mAh (0.2C discharge)
3.2 Charging Voltage 4.2V
3.3 Nominal Voltage 3.6V
3.4 Charging Method CC-CV
(constant voltage with limited current)
3.5 Charging Current Standard charge: 1100mA
Rapid charge : 2200mA
3.6 Charging Time Standard charge : 3hours
Rapid charge : 2.5hours
3.7 Max. Charge Current 2200mA
3.8 Max. Discharge Current 4400mA
3.8 Max. Discharge Current 4400mA
3.9 Discharge Cut-off Voltage 2.75V
3.10 Cell Weight 44.5g max
3.11 Cell Dimension Diameter(max.) : Φ 18.4 mm Height : 65mm max
3.12 Operating Temperature Charge : 0 to 45℃ Discharge: -20 to 60℃
3.13 Storage Temperature 1 year : -20~25℃(1*)
3 months : -20~45℃(1*)
1 month : -20~60℃(1*)
Note (1): If the cell is kept as ex-factory status(50% of charge),
the capacity recovery rate is more than 80%.

Added note: I was eventually able to awaken and charge the last three cells with the usb charger and eventually install them into the MC3000 once their voltage reached 2+ volts.

All the zero volt cells the MC3000 was able to charge to just over 4 volts, however being used cells sitting a long time I'm uncertain of their performance, i.e. capable of maintaining a charge, not easily drained from higher loads, etc.

 

[TinderBox (UK)]

Today i found a 1" crack running from the charging bay along the side of my MC3000, I bought mine from GB over a year ago and it was one that was affected with the broken slider pillars (brittle plastic)

I keep it wrapped in bubble wrap and stored in a tin box so it has not been dropped or anything.

So sad for such a nice charger, I will have to see if it can glue it.

Anybody else had this cracking problem?

John.

 

[LiteTheWay]

I have not seen that on either of mine. One is the 'June 2016 production' version, has all the fixes and has been used at least twice weekly since August 2016. My other one is one of the first production runs, presumably has the flaky post issue, but which is so far just fine although not now used.

Today i found a 1" crack running from the charging bay along the side of my MC3000, I bought mine from GB over a year ago and it was one that was affected with the broken slider pillars (brittle plastic)

I keep it wrapped in bubble wrap and stored in a tin box so it has not been dropped or anything.

So sad for such a nice charger, I will have to see if it can glue it.

Anybody else had this cracking problem?

John.

 

[Albert_]

I seem to vaguely remember a while back some discussion about spare parts and/or repairs performed on a MC3000?

My MC3000 has a broken pin. I'm in the process of determining it's 3 year warranty I purchased for it. However I would like to know my options for repairing it myself.

I found this spare case from Gearbest https://www.gearbest.com/led-accessories/pp_392591.html?currency=USD&vip=760243&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0Yio6vC21wIVlF5-Ch2dWwD8EAYYASABEgLGePD_BwE

One of the pins is completely broken off and I'm not able to find the broken pin to glue back on.

I'll need to dismantle and try to figure a good method to secure the spring with a broken off pin.

Are there any particular methods people are using to hold down the slot springs where the spring pins are missing?

 

[terjee]

That looks like all you'd need, but it seems wrong to shell out that much if itMs I'll under warranty.

It's the top part that have the pins as part of it.

In my case, NKON shipped a box with both this cover, a a couple of goodies like new feet, if I recall correctly.

Oh, and the replacement isn't the easiest I've ever done, getting everything aligned properly with the slides can be fiddly. I think most can do it with some patience, could be a challenge for some. If anyone has "old people-type shaky hands" for example, sorry I couldn't come up with a better way to put it, then I'd rather send it in.

If you're somewhat handy, it should be just fine, and save you from being long without the charger.

Edit to add; this thread has repair instructions on how to do it. If I recall correctly, you can just manipulate the springs with tweezers (or screwdriver) to attach it to the new posts.

 

[TinderBox (UK)]

I seem to vaguely remember a while back some discussion about spare parts and/or repairs performed on a MC3000?

One of my MC3000 has a broken pin. I'm in the process of determining it's 3 year warranty I purchased for it. However I would like to know my options for repairing it myself.

I found this spare case from Gearbest https://www.gearbest.com/led-accessories/pp_392591.html?currency=USD&vip=760243&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0Yio6vC21wIVlF5-Ch2dWwD8EAYYASABEgLGePD_BwE

However it appears to be only the top half and won't include any of the bottom half of the case?

Doesn't appear the replacement case will have any of the pins for the slot springs?

One of the pins is completely broken off and I'm not able to find the broken pin to glue back on.

I'll need to dismantle and try to figure a good method to secure the spring with a broken off pin.

Are there any particular methods people are using to hold down the slot springs where the spring pins are missing?

There is a diy fix, you use a small cable-tie, put it though the hole on the motherboard and then put the spring end over the cable-tie and pull tight, there is a photo of how it should look in this thread somewhere. (found it)

John.

 

[Albert_]

I went ahead and fixed it myself using the diy zip tie method. Apparently the other post were also failing as all four post eventually broke off.

I'm wondering about the quality of the plastic used for the case?

During re-assembly I notice some barely visible minor cracks in the bottom half of the case.

Here's a pic of one of the cracks. It isn't a scratch as it opens wider when pressure is applied to the lower half of the case.

Other than for the case I find it to be good at charging batteries. However I originally purchased the MC3000 for it's PC connection and programability. Without workable software there's no PC control over the charger.

 

[STIXXXXX]

Hey everyone,
I received my second MC3000 a few weeks ago, and I am wondering about this graph from data explorer:

https://picload.org/view/droorari/eneloop_pro.jpg.html

I discharged two eneloop pro with 2A and D.Reduce till 200mA. Can someone explain the fluctuating voltage graph and rising voltages at both batteries?
Charger/batteries faulty?

 

[TinderBox (UK)]

Looks like a crack forming on the bottom of joelbnyc charger, from post 4921.

 

[tatasal]

Ironic to see this problem when I never had similar problem, even from my $2 charger way back then...

 

[STIXXXXX]

I started a test with 4 eneloop AA/XX. 3 cycles with 1.5A charge and discharge and D.Reduce 0.2A.
Again slot 3 is noticeable - look at the first discharge and voltage rising....
At the end of the 3rd cycle the charging stops before the battery ist full because of the fluctuating voltages and therefore no correct -deltaV.
So I guess I should return the charger to hobbyking.com

 

[MarioJP]

Re: SkyRC — IFA 2014 / CES 2016 — MC3000 charger-analyzer

I am about to place an order for this charger. Should i hold off?

 

[TinderBox (UK)]

Re: SkyRC — IFA 2014 / CES 2016 — MC3000 charger-analyzer

I am about to place an order for this charger. Should i hold off?

The problem with the brittle plastic was with the early releases that had the broken spring/slider plastic terminal problem, the plastic type was replaced with a better quality one.

So it`s fine to buy a new MC3000.

I just wish my affected MC3000 was not falling to pieces, SkyRC should send out replacement plastic parts for free at least.

John.

 

[Ravel]

Hey everyone,
I received my second MC3000 a few weeks ago, and I am wondering about this graph from data explorer:

https://picload.org/view/droorari/eneloop_pro.jpg.html

I discharged two eneloop pro with 2A and D.Reduce till 200mA. Can someone explain the fluctuating voltage graph and rising voltages at both batteries?
Charger/batteries faulty?

All almost normal

Fisrt 20 minutes, the voltage rises (after the sharp fast decrease)
This is normal voltage increase : chemistry and mass transfer settle and temperature rises.
Then there is the "voltage plateau".
Then the smooth decrease in voltage on one battery, voltage oscillation on the other.
IMHO, 2 A is a very high continuous load.

The algorithm/controlled had difficulties copping with setting the pair voltage/amps.
Look into theory of PID controller where this can happens
Pretty sure at a lesser load both curves will be smooth

Final oscillations normal : this is what D.reduce does.

 

[Ravel]

I started a test with 4 eneloop AA/XX. 3 cycles with 1.5A charge and discharge and D.Reduce 0.2A.
Again slot 3 is noticeable - look at the first discharge and voltage rising....
At the end of the 3rd cycle the charging stops before the battery ist full because of the fluctuating voltages and therefore no correct -deltaV.
So I guess I should return the charger to hobbyking.com

Not sure to understand, there is only one slot on your graph
It is a better with all slots to compare

 

[STIXXXXX]

This is normal voltage increase : chemistry and mass transfer settle and temperature rises.

I thought, an increase of temperature would let the voltage drop (like it is used by the -deltaV)?

Final oscillations normal : this is what D.reduce does.

Yes, that´s just like I expected and normal.

I had another model before, which worked fine till I accidently poured some beer/wine/[insert some partydrinks] and I didn´t see those "drunken" graphs with that charger, and in addition slots 1,2,4 seem quite okay..
Anyways, just opened a claim at hobbyking and will return the charger. Already packed and waiting for the third one from Amazon tomorrow.
I will start a cycle recording and post it here. We´ll see...