So hard to find a good high cri light nowadays

[CarpentryHero]

"Tint" and "CRI" are not the same thing.

Tint - refers to whether you're above or below the black body line. Above gives greenish tint. Below gives rosy tint (which most people prefer).

Color Temp - refers to the LED's left-right position on the black body line. Left is warm, right is cool.

CRI - refers to how accurately colors appear at the given tint and color temperature. High CRI gives much more accurate color rendition and tends to look better.

It is possible to have rosy low-CRI and greenish high-CRI.

The 2020 Jetbeam RRT-01 uses a 70-CRI 4000K Nichia 219C emitter. It has a pleasant tint. Yellow, perhaps slightly rosy. But due to its low-CRI nature color rendition looks pretty poor with it. Note however, the the difference between low and high CRI can be subtle. If all you have is low-CRI, your eyes adjust and it probably looks fine. But shine its beam next to a similar light with the same emitter in high-CRI and the difference is immediately apparent.

I'm no stranger to high cri and tints, but no harm posting what you did. If the rrt01 2020 Nichia isn't high cri than half a dozen distributors and double that in reviewers on YouTube have it mislabeled as such. In this day and age I just don't see Nichia selling a low cri neutral white to a manufacturer. Is it possible yes, but likelihood no. I'd be interested to see proof

 

[jon_slider]

I'd be interested to see proof

see post #28

the Nichia is 90 cri

I'd be interested to see proof

 

[id30209]

If you really want high CRI, R9080, then look at ERKX store. Some improved MCPCB's and interesting emitters can be found there.
Nichia B35AM is an eye catching product, 6V and at 3A gives R9080 beam and around 1500-2000lm.
Smaller E21 can be run at 3A and some 1000lumen...
For modders and DIY folks

Sent from Tapatalk

 

[id30209]

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Previous CPF threads in regards to Hi CRI have mentioned that the metric used to determine CRI is not really ideal, hence you will encounter posts from slider and others that will detail elements that make up a desirable emitter for seeing more colors, especially those colors toward red. Nichia is bound to make LEDs that do not live up to their objective and yet they sell them, probably at a lower price, right? Some flashlight makers will use these lesser quality Nichia products. I have some myself. The 219c has been so-so for me personally except for an engine from Oveready purchased some few years ago.

I believe Nitecore stopped offering Nichia Hi CRI in their TIP flashlights years ago. Please correct me if this is an error.

 

[staticx57]

Previous CPF threads in regards to Hi CRI have mentioned that the metric used to determine CRI is not really ideal, hence you will encounter posts from slider and others that will detail elements that make up a desirable emitter for seeing more colors, especially those colors toward red. Nichia is bound to make LEDs that do not live up to their objective and yet they sell them, probably at a lower price, right? Some flashlight makers will use these lesser quality Nichia products. I have some myself. The 219c has been so-so for me personally except for an engine from Oveready purchased some few years ago.

I believe Nitecore stopped offering Nichia Hi CRI in their TIP flashlights years ago. Please correct me if this is an error.

I think you are referring to CRI itself being an old standard. With this comes the limitation of CRI being tested against 8 pastel colors. It does not test for any saturated colors such as red, green, blue, brown. CRI extended makes up by adding 8 more additional saturated colors but this extended CRI is not part of the test just usually an addendum. This is where you will see the term R9 come from because R9 is the test for saturated red, because red is the most important color in the spectrum. Also CRI is a test of accuracy, I use the term saturated red as it is what is tested for in comparison to pastel colors. A color being saturated is not the same as it being accurate.

That leads us to 219C. 219C was not produced by Nichia to the same CRI goals as the previous 219B, this is the term R9080 and R9050. R is just the leading term but 90 refers to the minimum CRI but 50 and 80 refer to the minimum accuracy of the R9 metric in the extended CRI test. Remember R9-16 are not part of CRI tests.

219C has been satisfactory because it was produced to have adequate CRI (R9050) but much brighter than 219B. That is why it is used so much more often.

There is a newer emitter, E21A which is both brighter than 219B with the same R9080 rating and brighter than 219C if you consider you can fit more in a similar space.

There is also Nichia optisolis which is not as bright but much higher CRI than 219B

 

[TA_ls1]

So I just ordered my Noctigon KR4 with the E21A @ 4500k, or it might be in the SST20 @ 4000k. I originally ordered it with the E21A but then found out that it was only 1200 lumens. I stupidly made the mistake of asking Hank to change the order to the SSTs, and a day or so later realized I do want the E21A more since I already have a light with SST20s @4000k. Also how useful are the 3000 lumens when it steps down in seconds? I'd rather have the E21A in the nice tint.

However, he said it had already shipped with the SST20s even though I never got a shipping email. A day later I did, but it still shows the E21A. I'm hopeful it comes in the E21A, but if it doesn't what would you all do? Return the light and order another if that's even possible? How long does it take for shipping from him in your experiences? What if they are out of E21As in 4500k by the time I finally get my KR4 (that seems like it's going to have SST20s). I'm having a panic attack due to my indecisiveness, and really do NOT want the SST20s, I want the E21As. I emailed Hank, but sometimes he replies other times he does not. Communication is not very good. I had tried to ask what tritium he would have available in the event that I end up getting the SST20 and need to order another light with the E21A, I still want the tritium in the tailcap, but he never replied. Is the tritium in the tailcap something he needs to install or is it something I can do for cheap on my own?

Also, would you all prefer the Noctigon KR4 or the Emisar D4V2?

Man I wish I would've just stuck with the E21A...pretty depressing if I have to buy an entire new light if I end up with the stupid SST20s because I am too indecisive to have stuck with the E21As...

 

[staticx57]

In true enthusiast buy both the SST and E21A

 

[CarpentryHero]

see post #28



I'd be interested to see proof

That's disheartening, so many sites and people have it mislabeled. I don't know if I can trust Jetbeam anymore

 

[tjswarbrick]

Haven't been active on the forum for a while since I've been very happy with (most of) my lights.
I have a McGizmo SunDrop XR-U with the Hi-CRI 119v emitter. Best, most accurate rendition I've ever experienced. And no glare. I use it to tell navy socks from black in the sock drawer; or when I need to read tiny, engraved print in shiny metals. Works even better than taking it outside. Just a beautiful beam.

Failing that, I've had good luck in the past with neutral and Hi-CRI lights from EagleTac and 4Sevens.

Just last week, I lost my beloved HDS Executive Clicky Hi-CRI. Ordered as a rotary in January of 2012, received as Clicky in March of 2013 (during that tumultuous time Henry was changing manufacturing houses. Rotary production was even more impacted.) After 8 years of faithful service, where I carried and used it just about every day, I seem to have left it behind at the ABC on Lower Honoapiilani Rd just blocks from where I picked up the SunDrop from Don (also in 2013.)
This particular HDS had a rather more yellow/brown tint than I typically prefer, but most colors looked more true-to-life than from other Hi-CRI / Neutral Tint lights.
I hope whoever found it appreciates it for what it is, and doesn't have a problem sourcing "those oddball batteries" for it! (I went back after realizing the loss; it wasn't on the counter or in their lost-n-found.)

I donated the neutral Quark to an Illumn giveaway a few months after falling in love with the HDS.
Most recent D25c went swimming with me a couple years ago, and stopped working. I replaced the switch and it worked for a couple more months, then died again. ET think the circuitry was probably compromised.
Zebralight H53Fc doesn't have enough throw to walk the dog in my (really dark) neighborhood, and likes to go into intermittent-flash mode instead of turning off.
SunDrop is just too precious to carry every day.

Thus I, too, find myself in the market for a CR123 Hi-CRI EDC light.
I just ordered a Nichia RRT-01 from Illumn, and will see if it is "good enough."

I'm growing interested in the Noctigon / Emisar products, but there are so many options I'm not quite sure where to start. Want a CR123/18350 light, not 18650. Don't want the KR1 thrower head for EDC. Need to familiarize myself with the various emitters to ascertain which will have the best color rendition and most pleasing neutral tint. Depending on the JetBeam I receive (previous experience with them has been hit-or-miss), I may need to drive on over and talk to the Illumn folks and handle a few.

 

[defloyd77]

So I just ordered my Noctigon KR4 with the E21A @ 4500k, or it might be in the SST20 @ 4000k. I originally ordered it with the E21A but then found out that it was only 1200 lumens. I stupidly made the mistake of asking Hank to change the order to the SSTs, and a day or so later realized I do want the E21A more since I already have a light with SST20s @4000k. Also how useful are the 3000 lumens when it steps down in seconds? I'd rather have the E21A in the nice tint.

However, he said it had already shipped with the SST20s even though I never got a shipping email. A day later I did, but it still shows the E21A. I'm hopeful it comes in the E21A, but if it doesn't what would you all do? Return the light and order another if that's even possible? How long does it take for shipping from him in your experiences? What if they are out of E21As in 4500k by the time I finally get my KR4 (that seems like it's going to have SST20s). I'm having a panic attack due to my indecisiveness, and really do NOT want the SST20s, I want the E21As. I emailed Hank, but sometimes he replies other times he does not. Communication is not very good. I had tried to ask what tritium he would have available in the event that I end up getting the SST20 and need to order another light with the E21A, I still want the tritium in the tailcap, but he never replied. Is the tritium in the tailcap something he needs to install or is it something I can do for cheap on my own?

Also, would you all prefer the Noctigon KR4 or the Emisar D4V2?

Man I wish I would've just stuck with the E21A...pretty depressing if I have to buy an entire new light if I end up with the stupid SST20s because I am too indecisive to have stuck with the E21As...

I personally would just wait and see what you get and how it looks. I don't know what your other SST-20 light looks like, but they're no slouch CRI wise, although some people don't have much luck with their tint lottery, ending up with greenish tints. I myself have 4 different lights from different manufacturers and all of them have beautiful, rosy tints. If you don't like the light, then I'd go about making a return.

 

[TA_ls1]

I am not sure what to do now. I might be returning the light when I get it because I cannot find Samsung 30Qs ANYWHERE!! Everywhere is sold out or back ordered. I cannot use the light without the Samsung 30Q. The 18650s I do have are protected or the Sanyo NCR 18650GA.

However, if I had gotten the E21A like I wanted, I could use the Sanyo NCR 18650GA which I can still find and also have a couple.

This is becoming very frustrating and I'm almost regretting this search for high cri.

So if I decide to order the E21A what light do most people prefer between the Noctigon KR4 and the EmisarD4V2 and why?

Also, is it easy to get and install the tritium in the tailcap for the Noctigon KR4?

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Great comments on post#46, thanks!

Yeah the 219c is ok but sometimes most show a little green tinge, like on a concrete curb.

 

[staticx57]

I am not sure what to do now. I might be returning the light when I get it because I cannot find Samsung 30Qs ANYWHERE!! Everywhere is sold out or back ordered. I cannot use the light without the Samsung 30Q. The 18650s I do have are protected or the Sanyo NCR 18650GA.

However, if I had gotten the E21A like I wanted, I could use the Sanyo NCR 18650GA which I can still find and also have a couple.

This is becoming very frustrating and I'm almost regretting this search for high cri.

So if I decide to order the E21A what light do most people prefer between the Noctigon KR4 and the EmisarD4V2 and why?

Also, is it easy to get and install the tritium in the tailcap for the Noctigon KR4?

D4V2 works just fine with 18650GA, theres no requirement to use 30Q

 

[18650]

I am not sure exactly what you are looking for and are limiting yourself to something such as cr123a support but these days high cri has been the easiest to obtain out of all history as most component manufactures are moving toward offering high(er) CRI as standard. This obviously trickles down to flashlights as the greater availably of LEDs that can be used. I would add that at the same time as high CRI there has also been the expansion of different CCTs available with High CRI. I have lights 1800k-6500k all high cri where as in the past you would be lucky to find 4000k only in high cri. My suggestion would be to broaden your search of manufacturers away from the big players that existed years ago and to also learn to mod your lights. The sky is the limit these days.

Right on. It's never been easier. You can find options across big name brands, smaller lower volume brands, boutique makers, custom makers, or ordering small quantities from component suppliers both big and small and doing the swap yourself. It's nothing like the dark days from 15 years ago when finding simple batteries and chargers was almost as difficult as finding decent emitters.

 

[tjswarbrick]

RRT-01 219c and D25c 219c both incoming.
Hopefully one will do the trick and become my new Hi-CRI CR123 (16340) EDC. Other will be kept handy for the household to use.

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Be advised that in the Eag Tac D25 I got will change modes if jostled when using an unprotected cell (too much wiggle room and the positive end is without a spring) but a protected cell is long enough to be solid reliable in that aspect.

 

[Yates]

Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread.

Is the PREON P1 MKIII a recommended high CRI light?

I've had it on my list for ages.

 

[tjswarbrick]

Be advised that in the Eag Tac D25 I got will change modes if jostled when using an unprotected cell (too much wiggle room and the positive end is without a spring) but a protected cell is long enough to be solid reliable in that aspect.

Thank you.
I'll probably stick to SureFire CR123's. That's all I ran in the HDS, as well as the Quark and previous (now dead) D25c.
Willing to try the 16340 that comes with the RRT-01, though.

 

[tjswarbrick]

Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread.

Is the PREON P1 MKIII a recommended high CRI light?

I've had it on my list for ages.

According to DarkSucks, they selected 219c's with CRI 92+. Based on that, yes. Though not the highest.

I have older generation Preon's in Neutral and Hi-CRI. The Neutral is a nice white. The Hi-CRI (XP-G, I think) has a very warm tint, but nice color rendition.