Soldering Tips, Electronics Tips? Pass on your knowledge.

[Tater Rocket]

I seem to be having trouble when I solder. Usually, it is with my PR bases and I am trying to hook a negative wire to the outside. The Solder never seems to stick to the outside. Is this because the outside is too smooth, or because I don't know what I am doing, or what? Also, when I run my wire out the insulator in the bottom, and try to put a blob of solder on it, the solder never seems to stick their either. Most of the time, when I pull the soldering iron away, it just sticks to the soldering iron instead. Any tips to change my luck? If you have any related, or non-related tips, please help me, I would love it.

Spud

 

[vcal]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Spudgunr:
I seem to be having trouble when I solder. Usually, it is with my PR bases and I am trying to hook a negative wire to the outside. The Solder never seems to stick to the outside. Is this because the outside is too smooth, or because I don't know what I am doing, or what? Also, when I run my wire out the insulator in the bottom, and try to put a blob of solder on it, the solder never seems to stick their either. Most of the time, when I pull the soldering iron away, it just sticks to the soldering iron instead. Any tips to change my luck? If you have any related, or non-related tips, please help me, I would love it.

Spud<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

-Spud,
You didn't say whether you are using any flux or not..?
Also, are you preparing/cleaning the surface properly?
How about "tinning" your iron?
-All pretty basic stuff, but not knowing how much experience you have, -just a few suggestions:
1. surface should be cleaned thoroughly, and abraded (roughened up) a little.(emery papr/file)?
2. flux applied to surface
3. iron adequately heated up and it's tip..-wire brushed/cleaned.
4. surface adequately heated.
5. decent solder, (the kind I like is Kester 2% silver solder)because it goes on smooth as a baby's butt, sticks super well at low temps, and stays nice and shiny.

Hope that helps

 

[Marked]

Flux is your friend. Use it.
Rosin flux is good. It can be left on the part after use. It's activated by the heat.
Chemical or acid flux shoud be cleaned from the part with a cleaner after use or it can damage the part.
Rosin flux would be best for you.

 

[Tater Rocket]

Well, actually, the solder I am using has a rosin core. Or so it says. Do I need to flux despite this? I had roughened the side of the base up, and despite this, the solder still was not sticking well. I forgot what kind of solder it is I am using, but I do remember it says it has a rosin core.

Spud

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

make sure the parts are grease/dirt free;
rub with alcohol and paper towel, or q-tip to be certain. then make a good mechanical connection (without using the solder/iron)
i.e. you may need a 'third and fourth' hand,
maybe you've seen these things with alligator clips at the end of bendable arms? make sure the two parts are in good contact with each other before you start soldering. remember if the solder isn't running on the pr bulb it probably didn't get hot enough and/or isn't fluxed enough...hope this helps...

 

[Marked]

yes you need flux. hard headed arn't ya?

 

[Go Go Gadget Flashlight]

Spud,

My biggest problem is also when soldering to a surface (like a PR base).

About the only thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is pre-tinning.
After following everyone's excellent advice on preparation...

Tin a patch on the base first, about 1/8" (3mm) diameter. Then, apply the wire or lead to the patch and reheat it to solder.
This way, you aren't trying to attach all the components at the same time. Your iron may be cooling off too much during the soldering process.

Just a tiny bit of help, but hope it helps you.

 

[JoeyL]

These are great tips. Gadget's tip on pre-tinning is the best. I usually file the surface to remove oxidation before heating it. If that does not work, it's a good bet it is a non-adhering surface, such as aluminum or stainless steel. You'll need a spot welder to bond to that.

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Spudgunr:
I seem to be having trouble when I solder. ...Is this because the outside is too smooth, or because I don't know what I am doing, or what? ...Any tips to change my luck? If you have any related, or non-related tips, please help me, I would love it.

Spud<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Here's the complete deal with solder. You must clean all surfaces where solder is to be applied and the solder itself with alcohol. Use RMA flux. Mildly Activated Rosin flux. The solder to use is 63/37. Brand is unimportant. This is the best solder because it doesn't have a eutectic state. Which is to say when it is a liquid and cools, it goes straight to solid and doesn't that weird plastic state like all the rest. Ensure you tin the solder tip. To do this you apply massive amounts of solder to your tip and let it fall off. This removes any debris from your tip. "Polish" the still hot tip with a lint free cloth and you will see a mirrored solder coat on your tip. Ensure you heat the component, NOT the solder. Add liquid flux to the component. Touch the solder to the component/iron area to create a heat bridge and then "paint" your solder on the component. It takes practice, cleanliness, and the proper components to solder correctly, good luck.

Ron

 

[vcal]

Anyone here have any opinions/experience with silver bearing solder? (the one that comes in an injector tube).
In the Micro-Mark catalog they claim it can even be used on stainless steel.:O

 

[Go Go Gadget Flashlight]

Doug, I've never used it but have heard of some paste-type solders.

Do you apply it as a paste, then heat the joint with an iron or pencil torch?

 

[vcal]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Gadget:
Doug, I've never used it but have heard of some paste-type solders.

Do you apply it as a paste, then heat the joint with an iron or pencil torch?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's what the instructions say, but I've not tried any of this stuff yet....
Fyi-it claims strength of 25,000 psi.

 

[earl]

Soldering to a PR base. If you mean soldering to the base of a PR type bulb, be advised most of them are aluminum, and are REALLY hard to solder. There are some tricks though. Get some aluminum flux, check the hardware store. Get it CLEAN, use fine sandpaper. When you apply the solder, scrub it into the work with the iron. If you have a specific soldering application, let me know. I may not be an "expert", but I have done a BUNCH of diferent soldering.

 

[Quickbeam]

Hey, all!

I tried the tips listed here and would like to say "Many Thanks!" to everyone who posted. It made a real difference in my soldering! Who would have thought (if you're new to the game) that flux would make such a big difference - fluxing the connections beforehand really makes soldering fast work! I tried the Pre-tinning of the PR bulb base to make the connections to LED's and that worked fantastic too! Just a touch of flux all the way around the rim and the solder just flows on like water and makes instant connections with the components later!

Thanks again for sharing your collective knowledge!

DP

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Spudgunr
I have soldered for years, here is what you need to do, take a very fine file or mild sandpaper, and clean the area you want to solder. The rosin core solder that you are using contains enough flux for your solder to bond, unless it is alumninum or stainless.