SPA Defense SPL-120 (Novatac)

[Lithium466]

I think Novatac must have used the cheapest emitters they could get, at the end of their life...coupled with no calibration.

 

[jon_slider]

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...HDS-universe&p=5085788&viewfull=1#post5085788

Good thing for me now is i can just click and every time i get around 26lm of usefulness. As i dont do sub lumen, it works out pretty much perfect as a general user.

your SPA @54 lumens is even more pathetically out of spec than mine @70 lumens.. but, like you, I mostly use about 20 lumens.. I do also enjoy the option to use 3 lumens at times..

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...HDS-universe&p=5115333&viewfull=1#post5115333

Even more proof Hondo, that a more to date LED does give out more lumens.
...
The actual cool LED in originally was imo quite good. By that i mean it was a pure white

I agree the stock P4 in the SPA is pretty nice and white, not too green, not too blue.. but, the promise of 3x the lumens from a 219b and the CRI increase.. well.. you definitely got my attention.. thanks for digging up the data

no calibration.

very true!
of course that means double the runtime :thumbsup:

I feel an urge for a Nichia swap into my SPA.. great conversations, thanks to everyone contributing

 

[Lithium466]

54 or 70 lumens instead of 120, even if we're talking about "uncertified" measurements is indeed pretty pathetic - not that Novatac is still around though, only thing to do is change the led^^
Would you have the opportunity to measure the tailcap current on lowest and highest mode ?

 

[jon_slider]

Would you have the opportunity to measure the tailcap current on lowest and highest mode ?

I have no experience or training, but if this meter is capable, and youre avaible to coach me, I would be happy to learn how

additional SPA trivia

when I did the battery discharge on high mode, I was impressed that the light held constant flat regulated output of 71 lumens the entire time until the stepdown.. there were just small continuous fluctuations +- 1 lumen on my meter, not visible with naked eye

 

[Lithium466]

Yup the Novatac is ok-regulated. The HDS is supposedly better, but the Novatac is already good.

The meter could do it, but you'll need an extra set of hands, and some more wires. Let me try to figure it out first

 

[jon_slider]

Lumens are just a number Jon, 70, 120, 240....................end of the day, its quality of beam, how it is put down field(figure of speech.............could be garden). Just a number, most of the time, outside with a decent designed reflector(like these for size) puts out a good all rounder imo. Maybe 25-35lm is enough tbh.

My memory is useless....................well almost, i remembered i had posted the exact numbers(well which relate to each other) in hondo's awesome thread.

As follows
Ano stripped 120e
Previous measurements
Low – 10 lm, 140 cd
High – 30 lm, 420 cd
Turbo – 106 lm, 1520 cd

[FONT="]
Now with 219bt 4000k
[/FONT][/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial]Low – 26 lm, 280 cd[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial]High – 100 lm, 950 cd[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial]Turbo – 310 lm, 3100

Copy and paste from here Jon.....................fantastic read, if not read already get stuck in!
[/FONT][/COLOR]http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?426231-A-brief-history-of-the-HDS-universe[/QUOTE]
thanks for those data points, ven
very helpful.. the 4k 219b produced 3 times more output, while keeping runtime presumably the same.. win win, I like 219b

a N219b 4.5k 9080 might be fun in the SPA
[IMG]https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1881/44206954381_e69551aed7_h.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1814/42399157830_8c22374ff0_h.jpg[/IMG]


[QUOTE="ven, post: 5236030, member: 293069"]The SPA was actually worse than my memory(gold)
Before
High – 54lm
Low – 8lm
After Nichia 219C D280 5000k 80CRI
High – 220lm
Low – 38lm

A jump from 54lm to 220lm which is quite a jump.

4 times more output with the 219c 5k

I look forward to hearing you managed to ramp down your SPA to 20 lumens on first click.

 

[ven]

I look forward to hearing you managed to ramp down your SPA to 20 lumens on first click.

I am not sure how old you are Jon, how many roughly and to be expected years left to enjoy............................I wish you luck in what your looking forward to hearing

 

[bigburly912]

I am not sure how old you are Jon, how many roughly and to be expected years left to enjoy............................I wish you luck in what your looking forward to hearing

hahahaha i feel the same way ven. Ive given up on programming mine. Ill carry it, (carrying it today actually along with another HDS I bought, LE edition 200.) but I will just have to enjoy it for what it is. 250 clicks I do not have the patience for.

 

[ven]

I have some lights that are single mode(high), some come on in high with lower modes(EDC+ for one). I have lights that come on in low, or ones that are programmed at a set level chosen by me. I like choices /options/variety, so it's all fine for me as it is. It's not like it's an eye searing 3000lm single mode. It's just 250, less than a typical Malkoff single mode p60(other than the lows). It is actually a useful al round type of output I use outdoors. I would say out of the h17f drivers, most will be there or about in output(although different beam type).

 

[jon_slider]

The Novatac SPL-120 AWLK was made for the US Army. At their request, Novatac removed the 0.3l (3 clicks) setting, and did not make it programmable. It can be hacked using the 250 click back door.

There are also 3 generations Novatac made for the US Army, each with a subtle change at the client's request.

Gen1 has a steel black-oxide bezel. Programming is 120L@1 click, 10L@2 clicks, Disorienting strobe@ 2click/press-hold

Gen2 has an aluminum bezel anodized to match the body. The Army also requested the head be locked to the battery tube to cut down on "movable parts". program remains the same.

Gen3 is the same as Gen2, but the bezel was elongated to accommodate a bezel up pocket clip, although no clip was requested or provided in the kit.

Apparently Novatac and their SPA Defense line, was a US company selling the US Govt lights made in China :

All of the SPA Defense lights were made in China.

The same happens with the Maratac lights, a California company has them made in China, and sells them to the US Defense Dept.

 

[Lithium466]

Where does the 120M fit in these different gens?

 

[jon_slider]

Where does the 120M fits in these different gens?

I believe it came after the SPA models, and is the only one with a pocket clip, more details here
but it is not marked Spa made in USA

Below you can see the differences in tailcaps, springs, contacts, etc.
From left to right: 120P, 85P, SPL-120, 120M

 

[xevious]

Interesting. There must have been an early transition period where SPA Defense received essentially unbranded NovaTac 120P's and just engraved their name on it. So for all intents and purposes, it would actually be a NovaTac 120P... until later on, when production changes were made. Because when I look at my SPL-120 taken apart, the tail cap matches the NovaTac branded 120P, not the SPL-120 shown in the photo. Mine also happens to be colored in dark green, not that desert sand color.

 

[Weld Inspector]

I just received an SPL120 today and I'm surprised by how pleased I am with a 120 lumen light the knurling is very grabby, the size is great, tint and beam are very pleasant, UI is dif from the majority of my lights but 2 levels is actually very usable


makes me even more interested in hds which I have yet to get my hands on

 

[Lithium466]

The rabbit hole!

Or a bottomless illuminated pit ?

Unlock your Novatac/SPA with the 250 clicks trick and get a taste of HDS UI

 

[Weld Inspector]

250 clicks? Really?

Also I cant seen to remove that battery tube from the head

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Head does not come off. Battery change only through tail.

Bill

 

[Weld Inspector]

Head does not come off. Battery change only through tail.

Bill

So those are both other models in the last pic in this thread?

 

[Lithium466]

I's glued with red thread locker, apply enough heat and you can remove it...but remove the electronics before.

Yes 250 clicks will allow you to enter the customization menu and enable programming, see LLcoolbeans Novatac cracked thread (sorry no link not very talented with smartphone).

 

[thermal guy]

It's in post 11 of this thread. 😁