Suggestions for updating SF LX2

[46Alpha]

I've fallen in love with my LX2. The size and shape just fit. But it's a bit behind the curve for raw output. As SF has dropped the LX2 Ultra, I've been looking at other options for upping the horsepower a bit.

My options:

-Purchase a Malkoff E series head replacement. By far the cheapest replacement with the ability to swap back if I feel the need. It'll up the output to 325, but I'm not sure the two stage low/hi switch of the LX2 will still work (by far one of my fav features).

-Purchase a new E2BT. Way more cash and to be honest I'm not in love with SF's new green tint. I have an EB1 and I prefer the older cool-white of the LX2.

-Some other option I'm not aware of? I'm still a neophyte when it comes to flashlights. But my understanding is the E series doesn't work like the P where you can just grab a new P60 and drop it in.

-Leave it alone. To be honest, the LX2 is great the way it is. I just like to mess/mod/tinker with stuff.

I'd love to hear some thoughts and suggestions.

TIA.

 

[Dingle1911]

I have tried Malkoff M61 and M91 dropins in VME head. I was not really impressed with the results. I don't think the resistor is sized correctly to produce a low mode.

I find a diffuser and Oveready tail shroud very useful.

 

[Tana]

you could find someone to replace XRE emitter with XPG2 or Nichia 219 for more lumens or better light quality... maybe even replace TIR with reflector which would have almost the same throw as before but 300 lumens with XPG2 and more beautiful beam profile and spill... both modes would be 50% brighter that way... that way you keep stock look and decide if you want 6500k cool white, 5000k neutral white or 4500k hicri neutral white with nichia 219 (same output but less throw with nichia... it does have outstanding beam compared to ring TIR optics...

that's what i did to my LX2 and love it (although i went for neutral white instead cool white xpg2)...

 

[skyfire]

ive found the optic used in the LX2 works nicely with a XP-G2. the beam is not as focused, but still has good throw. with a brighter inner spill.
i put a xp-g2 in my kx1b head and i like the beam even more than the XR-E beam with that optic.

 

[46Alpha]

Ok, so I'm liking the idea of going with the XP-G2. Not a huge fan of the low setting getting any higher, but it is what it is.

How difficult is it to replace the led in an E series head? I've googled E series head dissemble and came up with nothing. I'm guessing the upper part is just thread locked?

 

[Paladin]

If you are constantly chasing the state of the art you will end up disappointed and pennyless. I have a LOT of lights, and my edc is a Surefire E2L Outdoorsman with the KL1 head. When night hiking I carry three lights, usually a turbohead 3 or 4 cell light, a strobe capable light to annoy wildlife, and a low output light for avoiding snakes and tripwires. Day to day, one low output, long runtime tool. Paladin

 

[skyfire]

Ok, so I'm liking the idea of going with the XP-G2. Not a huge fan of the low setting getting any higher, but it is what it is.

How difficult is it to replace the led in an E series head? I've googled E series head dissemble and came up with nothing. I'm guessing the upper part is just thread locked?

ive never taken apart a LX2 head, but if its anything like a E-series LED head, there are 3 parts. the bezel which contains the lens and optic, the bottom piece of the head, and another piece inside of it that is threaded and glued which holds the driven. surefires have more design features to secure the inside components of the head, unlike most chinese manufactured lights. such as screws which require allen wrenches to secure the MCPCB. the MCPCB is also glued. the contact leads are also hard soldered, and might require them to be cut, and replaced.

i opened thread-locked heads by putting it in a zip-locked bag, and boiling it to soften the glue. there are other methods such as a mini blow torch that ive noticed other members use. C-clamps, vises, or vise-grips to hold the pieces with thick leather or rubber for not scratching the finish.

another method is to find a modder, such as vinh, and ask him.

a XP-G2 willl be brighter, but its not going to be a huge difference. its hotspot will be less less intense, but it will be a little bit wider. spill will be brighter as well. low mode might appear lower though, which is a nice welcome. if think the LX2 on high drives the LED at around 1 amp

 

[Tana]

LX2 head is the same as KX1/KX2/E1B/E2DL heads, only difference is driver and outer shape... like skyfire said, you need to apply heat (I used my wife's 1500W hair dryer which is scarily close to heat-gun) and All-Trade strap-wrenches... once opened it's a matter of removing LED/PCB and installing different LED/PCB combo - as you will use stock driver...

 

[TBrogden]

Tana,

What diameter emitter PCB would be needed for the swap?

Thanks!

LX2 head is the same as KX1/KX2/E1B/E2DL heads, only difference is driver and outer shape... like skyfire said, you need to apply heat (I used my wife's 1500W hair dryer which is scarily close to heat-gun) and All-Trade strap-wrenches... once opened it's a matter of removing LED/PCB and installing different LED/PCB combo - as you will use stock driver...

 

[Knifefeak]

Send it to vinh54 he can probably mod it up for you. Lol

 

[Tana]

16mm PCBs and smaller dia fit inside the heatsink... good choice would be copper PCB just because you can get it instead of aluminum one... thickness of PCB might create some issue to properly focus TIR later on... You're getting focus by tightening the top shell that has TIR inside so you can experiment to get the right focal point later on (or basically leave it w/o threadlocker later on so you can make focusable head, kind of like MagLite)... just make sure you center the LED well...

 

[TBrogden]

Thanks very much for the detailed response!

16mm PCBs and smaller dia fit inside the heatsink... good choice would be copper PCB just because you can get it instead of aluminum one... thickness of PCB might create some issue to properly focus TIR later on... You're getting focus by tightening the top shell that has TIR inside so you can experiment to get the right focal point later on (or basically leave it w/o threadlocker later on so you can make focusable head, kind of like MagLite)... just make sure you center the LED well...