Sunwayman D40A (XM-L2, 4xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO + more

selfbuilt

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I recently purchased a Neutral White version of the D40A, and thought you might be interested in how it compares to the Cool White version tested here.

First, there has been a change to spring design in the head:

D40A-Neutral018.jpg


This new sample has a larger and more pronounced spring. It is also perfectly straight. This should presumably help prevent the issues some people have apparently experienced of poor contact or potential shorting (from a bent spring).

As for tint of the new Neutral White, that is hard to describe or compare in pictures. Sunwayman doesn't report the tint bin. I have seen speculation here that it is 3B, which is reasonable (i.e., it is a bit on the green-side of "creamy yellow", and I would personally have guestimated 3B, or maybe a 2C at worse). FYI, see the flashlight wiki site for a tint chart.

In any case, to give you an idea, I have done a series of comparisons using the two best-match white balances that I could find on my camera (i.e., the two that most closely matched what I saw by eye). Note that neither of these is "perfect", but together should give you a pretty good idea of what to expect in a comparison. FYI, I find my Cool White sample to have a very "premium" cool white.

D40A-Neutral001.jpg

D40A-Neutral002.jpg

D40A-Neutral003.jpg

D40A-Neutral004.jpg


D40A-Neutral005.jpg

D40A-Neutral006.jpg

D40A-Neutral007.jpg

D40A-Neutral008.jpg


Again, I find my D40A Neutral to be a bit on the green-end of "creamy yellow" - although that may not be captured above, due to white balance differences. And I have no way to predict how that will show up on your graphics card/monitor - those are just the two best white balances on my camera, to my eyes. :shrug:

FYI, I personally prefer a slight rose-tint to my Neutrals (i.e., something more like a 4A/4B). I don't know what my Eagletac G25C2 XM-L Neutral white is, but it is closer to my preferred neutral. Again, here's a couple of the best white balances I could find:

D40A-Neutral009.jpg

D40A-Neutral010.jpg

D40A-Neutral011.jpg

D40A-Neutral012.jpg


D40A-Neutral013.jpg

D40A-Neutral014.jpg

D40A-Neutral015.jpg

D40A-Neutral016.jpg


Again, no single white balance will exactly capture the difference you see by eye. But the two examples above should give you a rough idea of how things compare. :)

UPDATE: I've just tested the output of the D40A Neutral White compared to my earlier Cool White sample. Here are the results from my ceiling bounce and lightbox:

D40A Cool White: 211 ceiling bounce, 940 estimated lightbox lumens
D40A Neutral White: 192 ceiling bounce, 840 estimated lightbox lumens.

That works out to a 11% drop by lightbox lumens, and 9% drop by ceiling bounce. As a result, I'd feel pretty comfortable saying there was a ~10% drop in output on my Neutral version
. :wave:
 
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Mr Floppy

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As for tint of the new Neutral White, that is hard to describe or compare in pictures. Sunwayman doesn't report the tint bin. I have seen speculation here that it is 3B, which is reasonable (i.e., it is a bit on the green-side of "creamy yellow", and I would personally have guestimated 3B, or maybe a 2C at worse). FYI, see the flashlight wiki site for a tint chart.

I agree with you there. In my post here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...pact-thrower&p=4257195&viewfull=1#post4257195

My phone camera running FCamera was detecting the white balance as 4900K. It does this in steps of 100 but should it be 4900K, that converts to the chromaticity co-ordinates of 0.349 and 0.361. That puts it in the 3C bin on the chart (this one might be easier to read: http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C... Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/XLampXMBL.pdf)

Of course, the caveat is that the reading is done by the sensor that is in the Nokia N900 so who knows.

On another matter, I'm so glad you went out and got one. I speculated as to what the max brightness was in my post but was having trouble converting it to your numbers. I did some ceiling bounces in a shower and I got 151.4 lux for the D40A NW. The other light that you and I have is the Fenix LD10 R4. I got 22.7 lux from that (max, don't have the other levels with me and can't remember them off the top of my head). That's when I got stuck working out your relative output values. Moot point, I'm sure we'll see numbers from you soon enough.
 
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selfbuilt

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On another matter, I'm so glad you went out and got one. I speculated as to what the max brightness was in my post but was having trouble converting it to your numbers. I did some ceiling bounces in a shower and I got 151.4 lux for the D40A NW. The other light that you and I have is the Fenix LD10 R4. I got 22.7 lux from that (max, don't have the other levels with me and can't remember them off the top of my head). That's when I got stuck working out your relative output values. Moot point, I'm sure we'll see numbers from you soon enough.
Yes, I'll get to it soon. But keep in mind that there's no guarantee that my various light sensors will be completely consistent in how they interpret tint. This is always a potential confound when trying to estimate output from things that are using different tints (although my previous experience tells me that my lightmeters are pretty good for the cool/neutral end of the spectrum).
 

selfbuilt

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I've just tested the output of the D40A Neutral White compared to my earlier Cool White sample. Here are the results from my ceiling bounce and lightbox:

D40A Cool White: 211 ceiling bounce, 940 estimated lightbox lumens
D40A Neutral White: 192 ceiling bounce, 840 estimated lightbox lumens.

That works out to a 11% drop by lightbox lumens, and 9% drop by ceiling bounce. As a result, I'd feel pretty comfortable saying there was a ~10% drop in output on my Neutral version. :wave:
 

ncvarmint

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Selfbuilt,
I am debating between the GX25A3 or the D40 nuetral white versions. Which would you reccomend and why?
thanks
trevor
 

kj2

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Selfbuilt,
I am debating between the GX25A3 or the D40 nuetral white versions. Which would you reccomend and why?
thanks
trevor
I would take the D40A. I've both, and prefer the Sunwayman. Mode switching is easier and overall feeling is better.
 

atbglenn

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Got my D40A today. Great build quality, UI, cool white tint looks really nice to my eyes. Blows away the Nightcore EA4 in quality IMO. BTW, I returned 2 EA4's due to quality issues.
 

selfbuilt

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I am debating between the GX25A3 or the D40 nuetral white versions. Which would you reccomend and why?
On the basis of tint, that would be hard to say (i.e., I don't know what is shipping with the GX25A3). I have typically liked the neutral tints I've seen from Eagletac, though.

But as to the rest, that really comes down to your preference for user interface and build. Both are good quality lights.
 

Mr Floppy

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That works out to a 11% drop by lightbox lumens, and 9% drop by ceiling bounce. As a result, I'd feel pretty comfortable saying there was a ~10% drop in output on my Neutral version. :wave:

Cool. That's not too bad. Would love to see how the sub levels compare too, only if you get around to it. Plus it gives me more points to plot when calibrating
 

Dr.444

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May i ask the NEW spring design in the head with Neutral white version only or Cool white also ?

If yes where can i find this new version ?
 
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selfbuilt

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May i ask the NEW spring design in the head with Neutral white version only or Cool white also ?
I don't know if the new spring is included on both the currently shipping cool white and neutral white versions, but I would think that is likely.

You would need to ask the vendors directly to find out if their samples have the new spring or not. There may very well be older stock in the retail inventory channels still.
 

JDee

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sorry for the noob question but will this light accept 14500 batteries?
 

selfbuilt

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sorry for the noob question but will this light accept 14500 batteries?
No it won't. The GX25A3 is the only multi-AA light that I know of that will take multiple 14500. And in any case, it doesn't benefit you any there - output, runtime and regulation are equivalent to standard Eneloops in that light.

Folks are used to the brightness jump when switching to higher voltage cells in single cell lights - but well-designed multi-power, multi-cell lights typically don't see an output improvement on different voltage sources. And the actual power capacity of 14500 is no different than regular eneloops (i.e., multiply the mA current storage capacity by nominal voltage to get the true amount of work that can be done by the cells).

And :welcome:
 

JDee

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No it won't. The GX25A3 is the only multi-AA light that I know of that will take multiple 14500. And in any case, it doesn't benefit you any there - output, runtime and regulation are equivalent to standard Eneloops in that light.

Folks are used to the brightness jump when switching to higher voltage cells in single cell lights - but well-designed multi-power, multi-cell lights typically don't see an output improvement on different voltage sources. And the actual power capacity of 14500 is no different than regular eneloops (i.e., multiply the mA current storage capacity by nominal voltage to get the true amount of work that can be done by the cells).

And :welcome:
thank you. your review has sold me on this light. Good job.
 

Eddie C-clamp

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Hey Great review. Anytime I need a new torch I spend 30 mins here and I got the skinny on all the new stuff. I got one of these in da mail!
 
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